Picnic in the clouds

Everyone has a joke or two about the Bengali tourist—that ubiquitous tribe which makes its presence felt in any corner of the world that spells holiday. You may have seen them at ungodly hours perched on popular viewing ‘points’—monkey cap, walking sticks and cameras in place. From groups of children in identical ‘new’ clothes to stoic uncles and sprightly grandmas in sneakers and sarees—no one is spared the call of the alarm. For the sunrise is scheduled at 4 am and God forbid that lesser deserving souls get to view the Kanchenjunga in all its resplendent glory before us.

And so we were piled in two jeeps—nearly three generations, cousins, extended families, and even a distant ex-neighbour who was included last minute when his plans for the Puja vacation were called off. He wasn’t very pleased at being yanked off the bed at 3 am either. But the plan for the day was decided—and it began with successfully viewing the mighty Himalayan range against the rising sun, each over-enthusiastic tourist on the line more hopeful than the next that yes, today the mist would lift, today the Kanchenjunga shall make herself visible to us. It might have been my first trip to the Queen of the Hills, but for most others in the group it was a sort of homecoming—a ritualistic return to their vacation home in the mountains.

Memories of that and all other subsequent trips to the observatory are a little mixed up, but it is a lovely drive out there. At a height of 2,590 m, on the way to Ghoom – the region’s highest railway station, Tiger Hill offers the early-riser several viewing options. You could pay a little extra for an Executive or a Special viewing lounge and cram inside with your cameras and binoculars, or brave the cold outside in the viewing gallery that offers uninterrupted stretches of the gorgeous Himalayan horizon. Besides Kanchenjunga, a clear day and a strong pair of lenses will also reveal glimpses of Mt Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Kabru peaks. To see the hesitant sunlight gently washing over the ranges is, to say the least, mindblowing. Till date, it has made the getting up and getting there rush worth it.