We're in Hampi, having spent only 4
days in Bombay. It was too hot, too hectic, too noisy, too Asian
City and too expensive, so we had to get out early.
Still, we had a
nice time, mainly hanging out on Juhu Beach in our new favourite
restaurant, or maybe it's now the old favourite. But about that
later.
Juhu Beach – white, flat, hot, boys swimming, girls not,
full time cricket matches outside the adjacent slums and on the more
glitzy stretches populated by the after work crowd, football matches,
promenading at night, fair ground rides, sweets, stray dogs, lots of
them, lounging in every available shady spot. And the restaurant. Pav
Bhaji, Utthapam, yum. Shade, and sanctuary from the constant
onslaught; beggars, drummers, holy men, henna tattoo girls.
Of course we also made time to visit
the Gateway of India, walk up and down the main drag in tourist
ville, Colaba, and stop in at Leopold's Cafe, where the tourists, the
expats and the trendy Indians drink.
After a train, a bus, a bus and another
“new bus, old bus broken” and an auto we ended up in Hampi main
bazaar in Suresh's Guesthouse. Also too hectic and too noisy, and too
expensive.
Now Shanti comes. We found the climbers, aspiring yogis,
carrom players and philosophers at Goan Corner. Nice bungalow,
hammock overlooking paddy fields and the rocks beyond. Favourite new
restaurant. You can eat the fruit/salad, drink the lassi, filter
coffee for 25 rupees, not 75 like in Bombay. Yes, I know that's still
only £1.
And we have ourselves a routine. What has become of
'bumdom'? 6:15 alarm, breakfast, climbing before it gets too hot,
second breakfast, siesta hiding from the heat, lunch, yoga, guitar -
I've even had the water colours out, hiding from the mozzies at dusk
reading or something, dinner, early night or thereabouts. For another
two weeks or so. Next stop Goa.
