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India Sept 2006

Day 4 continued

INDIA | Thursday, 12 October 2006 | Views [558]

We are finding niternet access not so easy, either power failures or saturated with midges, ants or mosquito's. Anyway after a trip down memory lane in Aine's apartment with photo's and articles we headed to Swathi Rest for a Panki Chut - a Gugarat dish on banana leaf: yummy! Taxi on to BAbulnath Temple, which we took a lift to and drank in the view of Colaba. This was very decorative and detailed, very spaceous and had the most gentle atmosphere all around and i found it very hard to leave it's serenity. On the way out i watched a child with a tiny tiny plastic ball, bashed to bits letting it run down hill, towards the mental traffic, and running alongside, lost to the joy of his precious toy.

We walked along Chowpatty Beach and strolled past families with children running with, remember those windmills on sticks we used to have as children and people selling food and drinks, couples dating and then we came accross a big marquee where traditionsl indian music was being played live and fostered out by speakers. The seating was interesting: you could actually see the cast system in this alone: the rich were to the front, the successful business people next, the devote next and then there were hundreds of empty seats...but thousands of people viewing from outside the barriers as if this is where they belonged. All life was on that beach and it was so rhythmic and alive.

On to a very nice restuarant Saltwater Grill, which was very exclusive and the most commercial set-up we'd seen in Mumbai. It had a real beach resort feel but somthing lingered, perhaps it was the knowledge that all the sweage from the city went into the water and because of the tides or something didn't go out very far and always returned quite quickly. Anyway we had a lovely beer here with a magnificant view and sauntered on.

Another taxi to Banganga Tank, here we got the first very real sense of community. not that it wasn't visibly elsewhere it was just that men and women seemed to mix and move about easily and together. Walking through the narrow streets of this ancient - said to be the oldest part of Mumbai and home to over 17 Temples. This was a very magical and mystical quarter and one we would definately like to visit on our return. It was night and the moon was almost full and it reflected on the waters where devoties bathed and prayed for centuries and you could really get a sense of some of those centuries and some of those prayers.

We walked back along Malabar Hill which is the richest, property wise, area in Mumbai. Bit shocking when you see the very plain buildings and decoration inside, the odd time you encounter a very beautiful colonial building but this is rare. Though what struck us was that in our few ventures, well, thanks to Aine, many, whenever we encountered rich areas the poorest of the poor were never very far away. we're in Hampi now and all the way it is the same, shanty towns next to oppulance - but guess where all the smiles and atmosphere was!!! On the train we passed fields and fields of tea, suger-cane, mango etc which were speckled by the colour of the cloth of the workers who toiled all day mostly bent over and as the sometimes stoood to wave at the train you realise that most probably never have and never will be on any of the trains that pass them by.

We ended our night in Leopolds - a very funky and popular watering hole for visitors from all over the world. Turns out we were in the presence of the biggest drug dealer in Mumbai - funny he didn't stand out but somehow he did too!

Namaste xx Cathy&Dee

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