So... we arrived into the north Peruvian town of Tumbes, and spent one night here (border crossing only open during the day). The following morning we took a taxi to the border, walked across, then got a mini-van for 5 hours to the Ecuadorian city of Guayaquil. We were wanting to go onto the beach town Montanita, but had to go to Guayaquil in order to get a further bus. Ecuador is known for its fruit - namely bananas, and we past kms and kms of banana fields on the way.
We got dropped off in Guayaquil - not at the bus station like we had expected, but in the city centre, quite a way away from the terminal. An Ecuadorian guy Daniel who was also in the mini-van with us - he spoke no English - but we understood that he was being picked up by his friends, and they could drop us off at the bus station. So grateful, we all piled into this tiny hatchback car, with our packs, me sitting on Sarah's lap so we could fit, and they took us to the bus station. They even paid the carpark entry fee and refused to take money from us! They were all so lovely. Daniel even gave us his number in case we had any problems or needed anywhere to stay.
Then inside the terminal, in line to buy a ticket to Montanita (was about 6pm), we were talking to one of the ladies who worked there, about wanting a ticket. She only spoke Spanish, and a young guy (the lovely Gorky) in the line behind us, asked us in English if we needed any help. Yes!! Gorky was there with his mum, and was coming home from uni. He explained that there were no direct buses to Montanita until the morning, but we could get a bus to the nearby town called Salinas for the night. Gorky said they actually lived in Salinas, and could help us get there and even help us find a hostel. Very very kind of them. So we agreed, and got on the bus with them. Then on the bus, Gorky called his Dad, and said that we could stay the night at their place in Salinas if we'd like instead! Such wonderful, amazing people. When we got off the bus, Gorky´s dad picked us up and they gave us a driving tour of the town (Gorky was the only one who could speak English). Then back to their lovely little place, where we drank tea, and they even vacated a bedroom for us.
Then the next morning we awoke to a huge cooked breakfast (where we werent allowed to help at all! Not even to clear the table), and sat around chatting to them all. They asked us to stay for lunch, so we did! Spent a couple of hours walking the beach with Gorky, then back for a huge lunch (the mum was cooking for 3 hours!), and we all sat around talking, eating and drinking red wine. Was a really lovely day. Then late that afternoon they were sad to take us to the bus terminal, said they wanted us to stay longer, and if we ever needed a place to stay in Ecuador, we were most welcome there. We said the same for them in Australia and England, especially for Gorky, who was studying international business and wants to travel the world. We just couldnt get over the absolute kindness of strangers.
We arrived that night in Montanita, a small, beachy and hippy town very popular with travellers. And it didnt disappoint... a really cool place with a perfect blend of beach, music, bars and cafes. We spent 3 nights enjoying the sun, hammocks, good food and good cocktails... And here, the sunset is INCREDIBLE!! A huge orange ball slowly melting into the water.
From here we went to the town Banos, set inland in the mountains, and a rather different surrounding to where we had just come. We actually had to go back south to Guayaquil before getting an overnight bus to Banos (nothing direct), so again it was another long journey (and our 2nd of 3 trips to Guayaquil bus station).
We arrived in lightning speed in Banos at 7am the next morning (was meant to be in at midday, but awoke many times on the trip to the bus kareening around corners...), and found the cutest hostel that overlooked huge, green mountains. We ate an incredible breakfast, before having our first of 2 hot bath type sauna treatments. In the hostel, they had this thermal bath/steam room (which was meant to be great for releasing toxins from your body), which had 4 wooden boxes with a hole cute out for your head. So you sit in there, the box gets closed around you (all you can see is the person´s head poking out... looks hilarious!). Then your body gets sauna-ed inside the box for 4 mins, then out and wash yourself down with cold water and a wet towel, before back in the box. Repeat this about 4 times (it gets bloody hot and claustrophobic too!). Then the guy running it sits you down in a pond of icy water and splashes you, then back in the box. Finally he gets a big hose and hoses you (it hurts too!), and then its all over and your body´s meant to be very grateful for the experience. Dont know how many toxins it released, but we had a good laugh.
The next day was Claire´s birthday, and Sarah and I surprised her with booking her and I into doing horse-riding along the mountain (Sarah refused, so it was just Claire and I). Claire was thrilled as she is a semi-experienced horse-rider (her brother has a farm where he horse-whisperers horses), whereas I had only ridden my uncle´s temperamental horse a few times when i was about 10. So a tad nervous i was. Our guide picked us up at 2pm, only to inform us that we couldnt do the 2hr ride as planned, but had to do a 4hr one. Claire was thrilled at the change, whilst myself was a wee bit more nervous (also worried about how my bum and legs would survive).
At the... I wont say stables, but the street where the horses were tied up, we met an NZ couple who were also doing the tour, and the horses: George Bush, Ossama Bin Laden, John Travolta and David Beckham. A rather odd and interesting choice of names, and not quite sure how the latter 2 fit into the political theme... I was given Beckham who was a lovely and placid horse, and Claire was given George Bush. We were also informed of the tense relationships the horses had with each other - mainly George Bush and John Travolta disliked each other, and if riden side by side, they´d start biting each other. David Beckham was the peace-keeper (who knew?), and often pushed his way between the two to break up any fighting. I´ll also say that the horses were very badly behaved - they walked when they wanted, stopped when they wanted, and if one started trotting or cantering, they all did. We really didnt have much sway in controlling them - we were just a pesky annoyance along for the ride. But that aside, it was a nice walk through the mountainside. Sadly, it wasnt until about 10 mins before the end that i figured out how to trot properly instead of just bouncing around on the saddle, and by then the bruises to my bum and legs were very much developed.
Claire finished the ride buzzing; I had also enjoyed it, which i stated inbetween punctuations of "ow...ow" with every step. Went out that night for a lovely birthday dinner, before collapsing onto a very comfy mattress.
The next morning we got a bus to Quito, Ecuador´s capital, and from there, a bus to the town Otovalo. Otovalo was home to the biggest craft market in South America – which was on the following day (hence our reason for going). Our hostel was in the countryside quite a way from the town, with 4 huge, soppy dogs, a log fire and hammocks. We had a really lovely stay here, along with a few really cool people staying there too.
The Otovalo markets were great – we got up bright and early to make the most of the day´s shopping and bartering. We bought quite a number of gifts and souvenirs, in a solid 5-6hrs of shopping. That night was another restful one, watching movies in front of the log fire, before a bus back to Quito the following morning. Claire and I only had one night in Quito, as we were flying out to London a couple of days later – Claire from Santiago in Chile, and me from Sao Paulo in Brazil. So we spent our last night here with Sarah (she was going onto Columbia… sad to part with her!), and we needed to get back to Tumbes in north Peru, to begin our convoluted journey to London.
We got a bus back to Guayaquil, spent the night there (funny too... again we didnt get dropped off at the main terminal. So we asked these guys "donde es la autobus terminal", and they had no idea what we meant. Until it finally dawned on one of them, "ah... terminaaaaal!". Sounds very similar to terminal, no?), then the following morning got a bus back to Tumbes (which marked the beginning of my horrendous transit to London, and the last time I would shower in 4 days). I had to fly to London from Sao Paulo in Brazil, and a more long-winded trip there via various return flights worked out cheaper than a direct one there.
So a 5 hour bus ride to Tumbes (a tad worrying when we got off the bus at the border to get our passports stamped, and the bus drove away with our bags! Assured it would return, and it did about 15 mins later after dropping others off), then a flight to Lima, where Claire and I spent the night sleeping on metal chairs in the airport. The next morning I flew to BA and Claire to Chile. I arrived in BA in the afternoon, put my bag in a locker, and spent a few hours in the main street of BA (went out for another steak too!). Then back to the airport about 11pm where I was to spend another night on metal chairs (didnt want to pay for a hostel).
The next morning I was meant to have an early flight to Sao Paulo, but it got delayed. I was transferred onto another flight there; and worried that my bag would get lost, but they assured me it would be fine. Exhausted, i finally got my flight to S.P., trying to remember Portuguese to ask for directions. Got my flight to London via Madrid, and it was farewell to South America! A bit sad, and I thought poignant that my trip both started and ended in Sao Paulo airport.
Absolutely exhausted after 4 days in transit, we arrived at Heathrow airport (Claire and I had the same flight from Madrid), were interrogated at customs by a horrendous lady, and then to the bag carousel, where my bag was not. At this point, I burst into tears (turns out my bag was spending some extra time in Madrid, and it was courriered to me that night. The airline even gave me 50 euros compensation so i could buy emergency things!). Met our friends Leah and Sarah at the airport for our next phase: "hello London"...
