Crossing Cultures

Where do I find myself on my first trip to Europe but in a country I'd heard of only because it sits beside Poland. For many, a European vacation would invariably be in one of the more well-known destinations, such as London or Berlin. But I went to Vilnius, Lithuania.

I had my reservations, primarily because Lithuania used to be Eastern bloc -- what could possibly be enjoyed in a country that used to be under Communist rule? (I found out later that Lithuanians are quite proud that they were the first country to gain independence from the USSR.) True enough, as soon as I landed in Vilnius, I was greeted by an arrival terminal that looked very Soviet-era indeed. And the taxi drivers who swooped down on me all spoke Russian.

They do have their own language, and a very long and rich history, vestiges of which remain in places around the city. My hotel was adjacent Old Town, whose narrow cobblestone streets afforded me a great deal of exploring opportunities. Their Old Town contains dozens of old Catholic (and one or two Orthodox) churches dating back to the Renaissance and beyond. It’s actually not a very big area, so some ecclesiastical structures are back-to-back with each other. And at irregular intervals among the venerable cathedrals are cafés, pubs, inns and the odd trinkets shop.

I dove into a pub one night and had myself an exotic dish of beaver meat. It was stew, with an unpronounceable name and heaps of potatoes that hadn’t been given a chance to soak in the sauce. It made me wish I’d gotten the wild boar instead. Other restaurants didn’t inspire me either, gastronomically speaking. Food in Vilnius wasn’t an experience I’d write about, if I were a food writer.

Their beers, however, are a totally different matter. Local beers always attract my attention when I travel. Now, Lithuanian beers are at the top of my favorites, along with German and Belgian beers. The one they call Svyturys is simply splendid. It’s full-bodied yet smooth, and delivers a subtle fruity taste that’s truly delightful. (Many travels later, my taste buds still pine for that elusive Lithuanian brew.)

My Eastern-bloc-country fears were’nt unfounded, unfortunately. The lack of good customer service in many restaurants and hotels seems to point out that Lithuanians aren’t yet used to tourism.

However, people on the street are generally approachable, and many whom I encountered spoke English well enough, especially the younger set. It was very refreshing interacting with young Lithuanians, who love basketball as much as their neighbors go crazy over football. Their general attitude says they’re very much aware of their being Europeans, but they do have their own energy that radiates pride of heritage and hope for the future.

Leaving Vilnius, I discovered that the departure terminal is quite contrastingly modern. The whole city is like their airport: a curious mix of the contemporary and the ancient, with a smattering of the Soviety-era in between.