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With the windows rolled down

Mai Chau and the Love Markets

VIETNAM | Thursday, 6 September 2007 | Views [318]

So, I think the last story i said i was going to go to Ha Long Bay. Well, we didn't get there, decided it was going to be to full of tourists (which we don't like to associate with, despite clearly being them!). Instead we headed to the Love Markets in Moc Chau village, about 4.5 hours, 200km (yep, slow travelling around here!) north west of Hanoi. We were about 30km from the Laos border actually. The Love Markets are where a minority ethnic group, the H'Mong people, gather annually to find a husband or wife. Alas, I am still husbandless. I have, however, been prodded, poked and patted by I reckon about half the H'Mong women there. We were one of two foreigner tourist groups there, so we were somewhat a novelty with our attractive white skin and light hair. The fact that we had bottoms was not so attractive though and we were told off publicly for letting ourselves slide towards obesity. Was rather funny, they stared at us, we stared at them. Much easier than my usual 'i feel bad for looking at people, i'll be subtle about it' glances. Apart from the H'Mong people, the Markets themselves were not that good. Very touristy (aimed at vietnamese tourists though, which means lots of awards, a 20 minute listing of all the achievements of the province in the last year, presentations to the governers blah blah).

The next day we went to visit a village of the H'Mongs, which was very very cool. I can't really describe it, look at the photos, but lots of stilt houses, running streams, rice paddies, a few cows and buffalo. Really beautiful. And not at all touristy - they weren't selling anything at all which is a great sign! We had lunch in one of the houses and went for a long walk around. When we were leaving all the kids of the village were out on the green, and were really shy until Lucy went and took a photo of two and showed it to them (oh the wonders of digital cameras in making friends!). We were then basically mobbed by gorgeous little kids wanting their photos taken. I've put a couple (or ten!) up on facebook so you can see how cute they are. Monday we went to a tea farm (again, not a touristy place, but rather just rocking up to a plantation) then drove back towards Ha Noi, stopping at Mai Chau for a long lunch and wander around. This place was full of little old ladies hand weaving bits of material on looms, as well as the usual rice paddies, cows, mountains, which no matter how often i see them are still beautiful.

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