Doubtful Sound Cruise
After the 3 day Routeburn track we were expected every muscle in our body to ache so we'd given ourselves 3 days to recover before we began the Kepler Track. We originally intended to go to Milford Sound during this time but we'd heard good things aout Doubtful Sound and were enticed by the idea of an overnight cruise. Doubtful Sound is longer than Milford and much harder to get to (you have to cross a lake and then get a shuttle bus - a 90minute transfer just to get the sound); consequently there are considerably less tourists. We met at the wharf at 12:30 but it was 2pm by the time we got to our boat. A steady drizzle had been falling all day.
The boat was lovely - even though we were in bunk beds. We sailed up one of the arms of the fiord when we'd found a quiet piece of water we went out in kayaks for 40mins - despite the rain. We did decline the swimming option. The walls of the fiord towering up above you into the cloud. It was all very atmospheric as the clouds swirled around us. Phil struggled to get many photos as it was just too wet to go outside with the camera. They took us to the mouth of the fiord where there were some islands with NZ fur seals and penguins. There was a roast buffet dinner. The excessive quantity of quality food was just what we needed after 3 days of track food.
That night it really started to rain! When we got up the next morning (it was still raining) there was waterfalls every 50m along the walls. They just got more and more impressive. In some places just sheet of water running down the rock. Apparently there are usually only 3 permanent waterfalls along the fiord. The cloud lifted a little so you got an impression just how deep the fiord was. We were "priveleged to see the fiord so alive" - I'm not sure if this is true or whether they told us that to make us feel better! Fantastic experience.
Kepler Track
The Kepler is a 4 day circuit walk from TeAnau. As you have to book in advance its pot luck with the weather. The forecast was ominous: day 1 - rain; day 2 - showers; day 3 - rain; day 4 - rain!!! We packed and dressed accordingly. We were probably carrying an extra 500g of plastic bags with us. We'd packed our bag on the veranda at the campsite - too wet to pack outside. Luckily the rain held off when we actually started to walk though the clouds were still ominous and you still couldn't see the peaks we would be climbing over on Day 2! The first part of the walk is along the lake. This was fine, if a little dull. We stopped for lunch by the lake side and within minutes we had a swarm of sand flies. They really love the back of my ruck sack. Sand flies became a theme of this walk - we used SO much insect repellant and we still sustained a fair few bloddy itchy bites (people walked out a day early just because of the sand flies). It was then a steady 800m(?) climb on a well maintained track up to the hut. It was gruelling. Once we broke up onto the Alpine tussock we had wonderful views of cloud. From the hut you're meant to get views across Lake TeAnua - we could see about 50m of cloud!! At least we were dry.
Day 2 is the alpine crosssing. Having completed the Kepler track this alpine crossing is clearly the highlight of the walk. When we got up in the morning you still couldn't see the lake below (due to cloud) but you could see mountains across from us and the alpine plateau stretching into the distance. There were more clouds above us. It was like a cloud sandwich! The cloud continued to swirl around all day in a teasing kind of way. The walk is along ridges with views of the moutain either sides - probably. At times we were in cloud that reduced our visibility to 50m. At other times the clouds lifted revealing the mountains and the paths ahead. You could tell the view would be absolutely spectacular if it was clear but the ever changing views we got kept you interested. Day 2 hut was another sandfly infested spot. We also worked out how to turn a set of Uno cards into playing cards....if you're happy with red, blue, yellow, green rather than club, diamonds, hearts, spades.
Damn it - just lost most of my text. Dodgy internet connection :(
All loop walks have a crappy bit which joins the good bits. Day 3 of the Kepler track is THAT day! It was a samey walk through beech forest. The highlight was trying to find a suitable walking stick for an injured Canadian we were walking with. The forests are covered in moss so anything that's been off the tree for too long is pretty much rotten. Day 3 hut was scenically located by the lake but as soon as you stop the sandflys found you. The only blessing is that sandflys are only active in the day. There were screens on the doors and windows but it wasn't enough. We awoke the next morning to the sounds of the other people in the bunkroom smacking/clapping the bugs. The night of day 3 we had brought 'back country food' - a special range of outdoor tasty meals; that are light to carry; nutritionally balanced; etc etc. We went for the beef curry - simply add hot water and leave 10mins to rehydrate. It was surprisingly good but we were pretty hungry by this point.
I was determined to do Day 4 of the Kepler track because everyone else in the huts was getting a bus back from Rainbow Reach - cutting off 4 hours of the 6 hours walking for the day. It was better than Day 3. It had carnivourous plants; fewer sandflys; and it cut along the river that joins lake Manapouri and Lake TeAnau. The river was DEFINITELY used for Lord of the Rings. The day 4 track is also a popular day walk and finally felt a bit icky in my rather smelly clothes. The clouds were still ominous but we were back at the car with no rain on days 3 and days 4...within 15mins of being at the car we were treated to a heavy shower! Great timing.
Mt Cook
Apparently there's a tall mountain visible from Mt cook village. Apparently there should be fabulous views of glaciers too. We arrived at 4pm to drizzle, which alternated with horizontal rain. We pitched the tent in a dip in the rain.The evening was a right off and we just sat in the kitchen - later in the evening the cloud lifted (still raining) to reveal a glacier in the valley behind the tent. We didn't take a photo because clearly the weather was going to be fine the next day! You'll be glad to know the tent was lovely and dry inside...until we got in it and created a little pool. As it was going to be 'fine by dawn' we set the alarm for early o'clock...to find it was still raining and the cloud was even lower! There was no point doing the Muellers Hut that had been recommended. We cut our losses and did the 3 hour Hooker Valley track - which was lovely. The rain eased to a drizzle to nothing. The rivers were roaring and we were early enough to be before the crowds. It takes you up to the terminal of the Hooker Glacier, the hooker lake and through lots of clearly glacial terrain (lots of moraines).
Kaikoura
We went 'swimming with seals'. AWESOME. In our case this more involved donning full wet suit including hoods and swimming into the pool in the middle of the seal colony. From here we just floated and watched them watching us; as well as play and fight. They're truly curious creatures and they came close enough to touch as they eye-balled you under the water. Sorry, I can't write more. I'm outta time....
We're in Akaroa at the moment in the Banks Peninsula. It's actually sunny again! We're heading to Christchurch tomorrow then flying to Oz on Christmas Eve...
Have a fab Christmas!!! All the best for the New Year. We'll catch up with you soon from Australia - I'm definitely ready for some more sunshine.
