A Tuk Tuk from the train takes us to the Thai/Cambodian border. The mass of moto drivers, beggars and hawkers yelling and tugging us is only a glimps of what we are about to walk into. After we stamp "out" of Thailand we are hoping to turn around and be stamped back "in" and get a fresh 15 days to explore more of Northern Thailand. Unfortunately, it seems, as though we will not be able to do this unless we purchase a Cambodian visa ($22.50 per person). Adding to the surreality of the situation are the two slummy casinos in between the borders where Thais come to gamble on the weekends. Attached on the Cambodian side is a 'town' called Poipet. Lonely Planet describes it as Follows, "Long the armpit of Cambodia, notorious for its squalor, sleaze and scams." Thats pretty accurate. With only an hour left before the border closes we have no choice but to purchase the single entry, 30 day Cambodian visas. $40 later we decide not to blow our chance to use the visas by returning to Thailand and decide to stay the night in Poipet. We survive the night, but we vow never to return. In the morning we walk to the "Taxi Pool" by the bus station to find a ride to Batambang, the second largest city in Cambodia (pop. 140,000). We bargain with a couple guys on the street and score a shared taxi for 250Baht (about $8). It turns out a shared taxi means a 4 door sedan stuffed with as many people (6 + driver) and cargo the driver can find to transport. Although its only a 2 hour drive, we stop about every 10 - 15 minutes to drop of this, or pick up that, or squish more people in, or exchange a passenger. Finally, we arrive, and of course we're dropped off at the taxi pool where the moto $ tuk tuk drivers are waiting to feed. Confused and on edge we stumble to a road stall and buy a coke and try to figure out where we are. We make our way to a guest house and check in. Not having planned to come to Cambodia (at least not yet) and enduring the scum of Poipet, we are a bit skeptical this will be a worthwhile stay.
But its not long after a shower and some food that the beauty of the Khmer starts to show itself. We spent three nights in Batambang. The first day we rented bicycles to go visit the Wat Ek Phnom, and 11th century hilltop temple. In Singapore, Malaysia and Thailand they drive on the left side of the road. In Cambodia, they drive on whichever side is more convenient. The majority of the time, for cars and trucks, this is the right side. Its takes us a little while to get used to the chaos, but in this sleepy little city the pace is slow and actually, it works. The next day we rent a moto to see two other hilltop temples, Wat Sampeau and Wat Banan and a stop at Cambodia's only winery on the way back. The temples are great, and if you visit between the hours of 10am and 1pm you will pick up a miniature guide, one of the local school boys, who is looking for some change and a chance to practice his English.
Our serene stay in Batambang culminates the evening before we leave for Phnom Penh. We went to the riverside community park to throw the frisbee and to watch the group exercise/dance classes they hold in the park every evening (complete with stereo system, techno or pop, and an enthusiastic male instructor). After a few minutes of throwing a young boy about 8 and his younger brother watch us intently from a park bench. We invite him to throw with us. He is a fast learner and seems to be delighted with the opportunity. Many people in the park stop to watch the weird westerners and their plastic toy. Before we realize, we've attracted almost all of the small children nearby and a handful of people of all ages throwing the frisbee around, taking part in this weird game. We play until it is too dark to see. Not a word of English is spoken except, 'good bye' as the childrens' mothers call them to go home when they have finished with dance/aerobics class.
Batambang has shown us the beauty of the Khmer people and countryside that we've heard so much about. We are rejuvenated and inspired as we catch a bus to Phnom Penh.
