Hola amigos!!!
I'm writing from Santa Fe, Panama, where the closest ATM is 1.5 hours away, credit/debit cards are useless, horses and chivas (pickup trucks that stop when you flag them down) are the main transportation for many of the locals, and, very possibly, there are as many chickens as people!
But first things first...arriving in Panama City, the adventure began as soon as we left the airport to get a taxi to the hostel. Apparently, everyone in Central America drives the same way...no rules, no speed limits, no attention to lights or signs...no problem! I was surprised as to how few people spoke English...I assumed that for a more developed country, I wouldn´t have as many opportunities to practice my Spanish...I was SO wrong!!! Not many people spoke or understood English. I was also surprised at how easily I was able to communicate...sink or swim, I suppose! For a few days, we did the "must-do's" of Panama City...Miraflores Lock, where we saw a huge cruise ship go through...spent an afternoon at Casco Viejo, where the old part of the city sits, and is a UNESCO world heritage site. We bopped around a few other places...but really, both of us just wanted to get out of the city. Like every other Central American capital, you fly in/out, and get the hell out!
Two buses, and 5 hours later, we arrived in the friendly little mountain town of Santa Fe. At times, both Kitt and I were wondering if the little bus that had us packed in like sardines (think-stretched out VW wagon!) would make it up the mountain to Santa Fe...It would sputter, and sounded like it was on it's last leg every time the driver started after picking up people on the side of the road.
We took a tour of a local family's organic farm. They spoke some English, and I spoke some Spanish, (and Kitt spoke loudly with lots of hand gestures!!) so we were able to communicate. Maria took us into her "kitchen," which was a cement slab with a roof and fire pit next to the house. As she was describing how they lived off the land, she picked up a machete, and started feeding the chickens...I don't know if it was the look on Kitt´s face, or if she was just intending to feed the chickens and happened to have her machete in hand...but she didn´t do what what both of us were expecting her to do. (I guess I'm just twisted, cuz I was kinda curious to see a chicken without it´s head running around!) She brought us into her home for lunch, which was one open room made of cynder blocks with a concrete floor with chickens running in and out. In this surrounding, it was surreal to look over to her daughter in law Erica, sitting on a chair watching a Sex in the City video on the television!? We had a lot of laughs...especially when Kitt asked if he should go outside to "use the bathroom."...Erica let him use their toilet in the bathroom. (Although, truthfully, I was also surprised that they had a working bathroom) What surprised me even more was when Erica informed us that I would be able to keep in touch with them via Facebook, as she has a laptop...(Not to mention that everyone in this town has a cell phone-most of which are better than mine...though I realize that isn't saying much!) The nights here sound like, well, a jungle! Birds, dogs, chickens...I love it! Yesterday we stopped at the local co-op, where they sell everything from milk to shoes. Luckily, there was a woman in line who spoke some English when I was unable to relate to the cashier that the water bottles we were holding we had brought in...I was just going to pay for them again-I wasn't about to let my ass land in the town jail over water!) On our way to a hike towards a waterfall, the same woman stopped her truck to give us a lift to where we were going. Her husband, who was driving, also spoke English. They pointed out where they lived, and continued on to drive us all the way to the trailhead. On the way, they had to shout, honk, and bang on the truck to get past a bunch of not-so-nice looking cows. The husband told us, "Just go around them. If their tail goes up, run like hell!"...Both Kitt and I looked at each other, wondering if we should just tell them to turn around! Dropping us off, she pulled a walking stick out of the back of her truck, and refused to take any money for the ride. (Everyone in town is like this!) On the hike, we never did find the waterfall...we were both looking at the ground, watching out for snakes more than for any signs, but we weren't bothered by it. I only had a fit once, when some kind of bug the size of my palm landed on my shirt... Walking back, we got past the cows, and ran into a man going past on his horse. He pointed to the side of the road to his house, and invited us to follow him. He introduced us to his wife, who brought out an overflowing bag of bananas for us. He brought over what looked like some kind of fruit, and said, "Un balboa (dollar), si?" I had no idea what it was, but didn't hesitate to pull a dollar out of my pocket...Later on, I fould out it was sugar cane that was melted into a big ball) He asked how long we were in town, and was trying to tell us something, but unable to understand, he brought us into his home. He showed us an extra room, and said, "Mi casa es su casa!" A very generous offer, but neither I or Kitt would ever be able to sleep in a house like that...which was much like Maria's, and in the middle of nowhere! I graciously declined, and told him I would tell others. While were were sitting with them outside, he answered his cell phone.(!) He was speaking too quickly for me to understand, but I heard "gringos" and "here," all awhile sounding very excited and full of smiles. We took pictures, and left to return the walk back to town. Further down, there was a fork in the road, where I attracted the attention of an older woman at her house for directions. I was only planning on speaking to her from the road, but she kept telling us to come down to the house. She gave both of us a big hug and kiss, and invited us in to rest. (All of these houses have no doors) We talked a little while, took pictures, and gave her some change for the hospitality. She gave us her address so we could send the picture that we took of her..although I don't know how that will work since they don't have mail delivery here! Leaving her house, Kitt told me, "No more directions, or we'll never get back!" The people here in town, as well as the surrounding villages are amazing...they remind me of the generosity of the people in Guatemala. (Don´t worry mom, we're only going when we know it's safe!!!!!)
Last night, we sat on the huge lanai overlooking the mountains and watched the moon come up over the mountain range. We watched a vampire bat fly around...I almost crapped myself when it started flying at us, until it swooped up over the roof-those are some big ass bats!!! We were planning on leaving today, but I started learning how to make bracelets from one of the girls working at the hostel...She's from Spain, and staying here until she heads down to Columbia. The hostel itself is also hard to leave-it's beautiful...It's owned by a European. Built out of bamboo, it has a 2nd floor (where our room is) and wide open windows...Being the start of the slow season, we have the whole house to ourselves. This is a place you could easily find in the U.S., and pay mucho for. It´s all ours for $33/night! There have been a few travellers that have come through who have shared their insights on places they've already been...We're going to Boquete tomorrow, where we're planning on doing some hikingand white water rafting. At the moment, I'm sitting at the little block room in town with a few computers...the kid next to me is listening to "Thriller" on the computer while looking at facebook...technology is definately advancing! In fact, Kitt keeps reminding me of how he has no watch, or phone because I told him not to bring them. Ten years ago, when I was traveling, you didn't want that on you, cuz it'd be stolen...how was I supposed to know 10 years later, the locals would be carrying around cell phones and laptops on the buses!?!?
...Will try to upload pictures in Boquete, cuz this is too slow, and sadly, the kid who is using his usb stick next to me seems much more saavy with the computer than I am!!!
