Star-Gazing in Tuscany

The car pulled up on a dark bridge, miles away from anywhere. We clambered out and fished for our bikinis. The boys recommended we change here, because the moon was bright and there might be other people. Giggling and shivering in the November air, we dressed, grabbed our towels, and followed down a scree slope, tricky to navigate in flipflops. We could hear the rumble of water falling on rocks, and people laughing. Coming out of the trees we saw a river, with several rocky pools on the side, clouds of steam rising from their hot waters. We found an empty pool and clambered in. It was scalding at first, but a welcome relief from the chilly air, and I submerged myself, screwing up my nose at the strong sulphur smell.
There were others in the different pools, mostly chattering loudly, but some lying back staring at the sky. I looked up and realised why – you could see the entire galaxy above our heads. The lack of light pollution and the clear, crisp night made the perfect conditions for seeing the stars, and I laid back and soaked in the serenity. The boys were doing the same, but soon got bored, and Manuel leapt out and ran to his towel, coming back brandishing a bottle of Chianti. No glasses, so we took turns swigging out of the bottle. It felt like a scene in an arthouse movie, not from my life.
The heat and the wine soon made me feel woozy, and someone suggested we move to a cooler pool. It seemed like a great idea until we stood up and the sudden cold of the night air hit. I slipped and stumbled down the sharp rocks, wishing I’d kept my flipflops nearby. Several others were in this pool, and as soon as we got in, introductions were made. They were all very curious about me, being the only non-Italian. Here I was made to feel welcome in a way that had eluded me in tourist-crowded Florence, and I forgot I was a straniera. Close to two hours of blissful relaxation and star-gazing later, we ran for our towels and the warmth of the car.
Tuscany is famed for its hot-springs, most housed in beautiful spas, but this hidden away natural spring was one of the highlights of my stay. I visited it several more times, but none compared to that first trip - Petriolo is best visited late on a cloudless autumn night, and you avoid the summer crowds. To get there, drive south on the E78 from Siena to Grossetto on the autostrada, and watch for the sign to Petriolo, then follow the smaller signs to the Bagni di Petriolo. Take a torch and warm clothes, and some Chianti!