The Triangle

So, you might be thinking that climbing the world’s third-tallest island volcano in the middle of the night is not a great idea.

You would be wrong.

It's 1am. I'm standing in the car park of Teide National Park in Tenerife, the Canary Islands. I’m wearing all the polar fleece that my friend Nacho could lend me, because it turns out it’s pretty cold at 2500m altitude, even on a Spanish island.

My plan is to watch the sunrise from the peak of the volcano, at 3,718m. Apparently, as the sun rises from behind the island, it throws a perfect triangle-shaped shadow out onto the ocean. I want to see that triangle. Nacho has come with me because, in his words, “it’s easier to come with you than to have to rescue you tomorrow.”

We begin the walk. The track is actually quite easy, which is fantastic because I'm pretty unfit after weeks of eating nothing but jamón and deep-fried calamari. But the cold and the early hour make it hard to take breaks - rest too long and you’re not sure you can get up again.

We’d bought some torches from a discount variety store, but we quickly realise we don’t need them: the night is so clear that we can see all the way to the other islands, and the moon is so bright that we cast clear shadows on the ground.

The scene is otherworldly - at this height there are no trees, only rocks that shine pale grey in the quiet night. I feel like I’m on the moon.

We’re 700m from the peak and making record time when my foot slips on some gravel. I hear a loud snap. It’s my ankle.

I’m frozen from the shock, and the pain, and the cold. Other hikers rush around me and carry me to the Refugio, a shelter that is mercifully close by. I can’t walk. I can’t even stand.

As this realisation starts to set in, dawn begins to break. I see the ocean of clouds spread below me turn from silver to yellow to pink. It’s the most beautiful thing I’ve ever seen.

After the sun has risen, Nacho makes some calls and tells me that four firemen are on their way with a stretcher to carry me down. They would have sent a helicopter, but my insurance expired two weeks ago. A few hours later, four of Spain’s finest strap me into a bright red stretcher and carry me out of there. They are my heroes.

So, should you climb Mt Teide in the middle of the night to watch the sun rise? Yes, without a doubt. Take a guide, make sure you've got travel insurance, and for the love of god wear ankle support.

But go. Climb the volcano. Make it to the top for me. Go see the triangle.