May 23 - July 2
Nepal - Kathmandu
A place I have fallen in love with. Mike and I had every intention of taking a trek from Lukla to Gokyo in the Khumbu (Sagarmatha National Park), but unfortunately the weather just didn’t cooperate. Our time was not wasted though.
One week we stayed at the Red Planet where we spent time with Mahesh, the owner of the hotel and Stephen, a Belgian who has emigrated to Nepal and whom we have become friendly with over the past few years, discussing sociology, philosophy and other heady topics, including the meaning of zero, on the rooftop while admiring the full moon and sipping beer. I’ll admit, I spent most of my time admiring the moon and left the heavy discussions to the guys.
Mike encountered the first child, in a long time, that he can spend more than 10 minutes with, Maheshs’ grandson, Aaran, a sweet little guy just under three and smart as a whip. He would anxiously await our arrival back to the hotel in the afternoon after our daily coffee & cake, so he could practiced his English and then “box” with Mike. Aaran won all the matches.
Desmond, Mike’s long time friend, opened his house to us so we were able to spend quality time with him in Kimdol. I believe the two of them got at least one successful track recorded of an original piece Desmond has been working on. While they spent time in the studio, I relaxed in the beautiful garden reading, petting the dogs or going for walks through the village and to Monkey Temple. Of course, the highlight for Mike was playing with Desmond for two nights at 1905. He goes to another place and becomes even more alive when he has that bass in his hands and he’s playing the blues.
We left Nepal on June 6, heading for the heat and rain of India monsoon season.
Mumbai (old Bombay)
We arrived in Mumbai in the late afternoon after some anxious moments in Delhi where we were connecting to Mumbai. We thought we might miss the flight, it took a very long time for all the luggage to get off the plane, onto the baggage carrier and to the customers. This wouldn’t normally be a problem, but since we had to go through immigration and customs, it was a bit frantic. We made the flight with about five minutes to spare. I’m really getting too old to be running through airports with daypacks and guitars flying in the wind.
Anyway, Mumbai....what a beautiful city. We spent five days walking along the tree lined boulevards, trying to avoid getting hit by the crazy taxi and motorcycle drivers, or crushed by the massive number of people walking on the crowded sidewalks. Being Monsoon season, the umbrellas were always handy, particularly after one of the early days when we left them in the room and we were stuck in a down pour. Raindrops the size of a dime, and coming in sheets, looking like one of the fountains people have on their desks to sooth them throughout the day. I’m confident we’ll dry out eventually, as will our cloths.
Just wondered around looking at the buildings, having a beer each day at Leopold's Cafe - very lively place that's been in operation since 1871. Our friend Desmond said he and Joan hung out there in the early hippie days (1973-6). The waiters got to know us after a few days and would almost automatically bring us two cold Turborgs & peanuts when we sat down.
On every block at least one young women (some not so young), with a baby in her arms, is begging for money. The children learn early to take their right hand and constantly put it up to their mouth as the left hand is trying to tug on your shirt, pants or hand to get attention. Families (usually just the mom and children, I don’t know where the fathers are) squat on the sidewalks using old cardboard boxes as their cushion and only protection from the dirt and grim. Some are trying to sell little trinkets, but most are just begging.
After a while I became immune to the surroundings, that may sound harsh, but if I didn’t I would be broke. At first I would at least acknowledge them and say no, Mike on the other hand just looked past them as though they didn’t exist. I think that comes from living in Asia for such a long time and coming across beggars constantly in Nepal and Thailand, particularly children and women with babies.
We went walking every day for at least two to three hours. I was mesmerized by the beauty of the buildings and parks, as well as the street vendors. These vendors sell the same crap that the street vendors sell in Bangkok and Kathmandu. I’m convinced the bracelets, shawls, watches, shoes, earrings, dresses, jeans, DVDs etc. are all made in China. I haven’t been able to get the bargaining routine down. Apparently it’s what people are accustomed to doing and it’s a game. The vendor start with a price, and I suspect I’m to then say no, how about 25% of that and then it goes from there, until you either agree on a price, or walk away. 99% of the time when you walk away, they will run or call after you and agree to your price. Too much energy on a hot day as far as I’m concerned. I’m a fixed-price kind of gal.
Just like Nepal, the cows roam free in the streets. I was watching an older man in the middle of the street peeling a banana for his grandson, a cow was close by and tried to eat the second banana. The old guy shooed the cow away before he could get a bite. It was a pretty amusing sight. Mumbai also has a lot of goats roaming freely, and where Kathmandu had street dogs and very few cats, Mumbai has cats and not as many street dogs. On the other hand, I haven’t seen any rats here either, so the cats are serving their purpose and earning their keep.
Trains are the best way to travel here and since we’re old geezers, we get really good discounts. I get 50% off and Mike gets 40% off the regular prices. Our overnight sleeper from Mumbai to Cochin, 1,600 KM, cost a total $42.20 for the two of us. Of course the ride was long, just about 29 hours.
The train trip was different to be sure. We had a sleeper and for the first part of the trip three Indian gentlemen were in the compartment along with us. Should have only be a total of 4 in the compartment. Anyway, those three spent from noon to about 10 PM either on their cell phones or on the computer, apparently conducting business.
They departed early in the morning and new people came on -- this time a mother and three kids. It took forever for them to get settled. I finally got back to sleep. In the morning, after everyone was awake, the father showed up and for the next seven hours I felt like Mike and I were on display. The family was traveling with 9 or 10 friends and relatives and each of them showed up at one time or another to meet us and gawk. Westerners must be far and few between. One thing I've learned while in India, the people have no filters and will ask anything. Such as: how old are you, are you married (was it arranged or is it a love marriage); how much money do you make; do you have children, NO? why not? Most un-American. Two of the younger boys started to make the sounds little boys do (raspberries on their arms) and asked Mike what the English word was, so of course he said fart and made sure the boys were saying the word with just the right accent before all was said and done. Mike just smiled at me and said, “I’m an English teacher, what else was I to do?”.
I've never been so happy to get off a train, or any transportation in my life. Mike and I were both exhausted by the experience.
We made it to our Guest House in Cochin, met the owner and then took a short walk to familiarize ourselves with the area, had dinner and conked out. We finally had a sunny day, the first in about a week, I'm getting used to the umbrella attached at my wrist constantly. I can hold the umbrella and a bag of groceries at the same time, I'm slowly acclimating to the surroundings.
During our five days in the area we saw the popular Chinese Fishing Nets where fresh fish is sold every evening; the Parade Grounds (now a playground - boys playing soccer in the puddles and mud); a Basilica built by the Portuguese over 500 years ago; “Jew Town”, one of the oldest Jewish settlements and synagog in India, now an area filled with small shops selling shawls, paintings, hindu and buddhist icons and gems
The best day we had in Cochin was Sunday. We took a backwater boat cruise. At first I was a bit bummed out because it was raining yet again, and not a nice simple shower, but full blown downpour. I thought, lucky us, on a boat for 5 hours in the rain, how special. Thankfully the rain stopped just before we got to the boat dock and didn’t start again until we were back in the van for the return trip to the guest house. The cruise was so relaxing, after being surrounded by city noise for so long, to hear silence was wonderful. Along the trip we stopped at a calcium hydroxide small community factory. We had a bit of a chemestry lesson on how the clam shells are burnt and then processed to make products like furtalizer, paint and newsprint. We also stopped by another community co-op, this one making rope from the husk of coconuts.
During the rainy days, we spent time on the internet investigating where to go next. I’ve noticed on our walks and on the train trips, many on the homes in India are painted bright, vivid colors like pink, bright blue, lime green, orange, red, purple and yellow - bright pops of color mixed in with the lush green of the trees and flowers. I imagine they are painted like this to brign grighness an dlight ot an area that could be so gray with rain nine months of the year. Possibly helps keep people in a good mood.
Our excursion also included heading by train to Kanyakumari, the southern most tip of India, where the Arabian Sea, Indian Ocean and Bay of Bengal all flow. One of the main attractions is being able to see both the Sunrise and the Sunset on the point. Really a highlight of the trip: cool breezes, blue sky, waves crashing on rocks; wonderful people; 4,000 miles of open ocean in three directions. It seemed to be a big vacation spot for Indian families, so again very crowded streets, sidewalks and shops and lots of honking horns.
Another train trip, this time from Kanyakumari to Delhi, approximately 3200 KM and over 48 hours. Got to love the trains! Again we were the attraction for the traveling Indian family, it wasn’t as bad as the first inquision, mostly they just want to practice their english.
Finally arrived in Delhi and it’s an eye-opener for sure. Hugh disparity between the wealthy and the poor. Poverty is overwhelming. People living along the sidewalks, under bridges, in ditches and trash everywhere. But hidden from constant view by high walls, more established slums - not even very far from the wealthier enclaves, such as the Delhi Golf Course or some of the Indian government buildings.
We stayed off Main Bazzar Road in a bit of a dodgy area, filled with inexpensive hostels, restaurants and bars. It was safe enough and had lots of energy, along with the numerous cars and taxis (of all sizes), motorcycles with famlies of four on the seat, ox push carts, bicycles, walkers, dogs, goats and lets not forget the “sacred cow”.
India has been a struggle. It seems every plan we made, or had wanted to make, would hit a road block. We intended to visit Amritsar and the Golden Temple, Jaipur and possibly Ranthambhore National Park for the tigers, Varanasi and the Ganges River and Agra. Unfortunatly we only got to Agra, and that was a day trip to see the Taj Mahal. Neither of us realized that in addition to it being Monsoon season, the entire month of June is a school holiday and all the Indians take their vacations - therefore, train tickets were booked weeks, if not months in advance. No matter how we tried to route ourselves we couldn’t get places.
That’s alright, we saw the Taj and spent a really nice half-day in Delhi, visiting Humayun’s Tomb and even finding what I believe is one of the houses Glen’s family lived in while his dad was stationed here in the 50s/60s.
We’re back in Nepal for a few weeks. Mike will record with Desmond and I’m heading off to Kopan for a 10 day course. On July 13 we head for Bali.
