Limestone Landscapes

‘Xin Chao! Xin Choa! Missie, you OK?’

I jolted out of my reverie and, OK, breathed a slight sigh of relief. I had managed to lose myself, physically and metaphorically, in one of the most beautiful parts of Vietnam. Phong Nha Ke Bang.

Phong Nha has a plethora of natural phenomena. Limestone hills hollowed by millennia of dripping water to form magnificent caves. I had come to the park for a break from the hectic pace of life in HCMC, with much to see my agenda had hardly been restful.

Initially I ventured into the accessible, following boardwalks to colours I never thought possible to find underground. Awestruck, my week became filled with mountain bike rides and jungle hikes. Swimming through underground rivers and climbing chimneys to ever more beautiful hidden landscapes.

On my last day it poured. Wrapped in western style waterproofs, under a Vietnamese rain cape I hired a motorbike and headed out to look for the Nuoc Mooc Spring and Eco Trail.

Wall to wall sunshine would have been good. But mountains in December have their own agenda. Mist hung around the valleys and rain ran down the hill in waves; over my nose, into my mouth, misted up my glasses. Were a few waterfalls really worth it?

Then, right by the road. A still pool of the the deepest glossy aquamarine. Nuoc Mooc Spring emerges in a vast pool from under jagged limestone hills, minerals painting its rich colour. It’s been explored by divers, I read, who have not yet found the source. A deep bottomless hole.

Parking my bike, I found the trail and paid the solitary, bored attendant. Undesirable on the road, the rain fed a frenzy of water. Over boulders and under wooden walkways clearly meant for more than my footfall.

Captivated by the movement, the low mist swimming round dripping palms; the quietness of the hills and sky, the frenetic pace of the river. I stumbled over boulders, sat on rocks, stood and stared. Pounding water split into minor rivers bisecting paths and lapping over walkways. Pulling my camera out from the security of my cape I tried to capture an essence of the day.

Then: ‘Miss, missie’! Clearly two hours is too long to look at a few waterfalls.

Phong Nha bit me so hard I returned in the summer. Explored Son Doong, largest of all caves, but this time I rested too. Blue sky induced inactivity. Butterflies played tag along banks and birdsong replaced the floating mist. Rivers ran laconic and lazy. If there were a third season, I’d go then too.