She travels....

2:30 am Nis, Serbia
I briefly said goodbye to my dear friend Nenad and boarded the night train that had arrived in a timely fashion, an unusual occurrence for this line I had been told. I quickly climbed into what I believed was the correct car and was instantly overwhelmed by intense conflicting energies surrounding the many nocturnal individuals on board. I realized soon after finding seat that I had entered the smuggling car.
What began as an unnerving stakeout by some of the passengers, soon turned to frenzy. Cartons of cigarettes with comical names were ripped apart and stuffed into every last crevice of the train. Panels in the cars compartments were being removed, bags were being packed and re-packed again and again. Sleep was not an option on this trip. A woman who was seated across from me earlier entered violently with demands impossible for 3 backpackers who shared the cabin and I to understand. She proceeded to shove cartons of cigarettes upon us to fill any space we had to spare in out luggage. We all complied without saying a word, all a bit nervous from the sudden inclusion into the smuggle.
Just before reaching the border the chaos finally lifted and an air of tension rose. The woman took her seat once again. The train came to a halt and the heavy-footed Bulgarian border control stepped on. A waiting game commenced, and as the controller approached our compartment I watched the previously confident, spunky woman start to sweat. After a small amount of questioning, stamps were placed in our passports. The pressure had lifted; the woman lighted a cigarette as a sign of relief for all. Goodbye Serbia.
The train’s successful release resulted in a sort of upheaval. All that had been safely stored earlier was recovered including the packages that were forced upon my fellow car mates. In addition the cigarettes were now being sold and older village women and rough workmen alike were purchasing cartons at a premium price. All I could do was, assume this was not a rare occurrence and I was the abnormal passenger for not participating.
As we finally pulled into Sofia’s main station I was in a delirious state, digesting my dose of surreal reality. Think I will stick to daytime travel from now on.