Sousdey, we smile.

Tonle Sap's waters smelt mildly like diesel fuel. A dirty-brown mixture of water, mud and clay. Water splashed against the side of our boat as it broke through the mist, sending droplets of contaminated river water to our faces.

A speedboat pulled up right beside our boat, carrying a be-ragged man and a little girl no more than five. Holding a rattan basket with what looked like cans of beer and soy milk, the child's eyes surveyed our boat like a panther eyeing it's prey. The heavy basket swayed dangerously on her tiny, wobbly arm as she calculated her steps towards the edge of her speedboat as it drew closer to our boat. Her foot collided with the wooden sides of the boat, but it didn't pose as a deterrence. We could only watch the unsympathetic scenario in anticipation. She hoovered dangerously barefooted at the far edge of her speedboat, that anyone watching would fear for her life. She took a leap, and landed lightly onto our boat. Unfazed, she looked up at us, grinned and offered us the goods in the basket - "You want Soya Bean? Henekien?" You instantly realise that the incident that had taken place right before our very eyes was a mere routine for the little girl. We buy a can of beer or two from her. No one told her that the money given may be snatched hungrily by her own parents come day's end, for the night's booze and cheap cigarettes. Nevertheless, we were in awe of her determination. That was among what the children of Tonle Sap did daily- like circus clowns at a freak show, unfazed and carefree. Just like the little water panther on the speedboat, they had to. The fact that they had to in itself, was disturbing and heartbreaking.

When concrete jungles and the nine to five daily grind continue to consume you, that particular day on the Tonle Sap river would still possesses the ability to make you smile remembering the warm laughing faces that greet you despite horrendous conditions in the face of filth, death, exploitation and poverty. The ability to then make you want to slap yourself embarrassed for cracking a smile in such inappropriate conditions, and shed a tear for the vicious inequality in life. It tells you a story of survival. The stir of emotions in a single minute could break anyone's stone cold pride with an invisible Thor's hammer. Above all, it'll save you. You just have to see it, and lose yourself. The ability to conjugate all types of feelings at once was beautiful- imprinting flitting images permanently into your heart.