Over the last few days the temperature has soared to a blistering 49 degrees, sapping my energy and my appetite. It's been hard enough to stay hydrated, let alone to work up the need to eat anything! We have farewelled Rajisthan and the tigers and headed east, to Agra and Varanasi. Agra has some freaky, apocalypse-style weather - blistering sun, monsoon rains and sandstorms, all in 1 evening! The Taj Mahal was everything I expected, and more - towering above the chaotic Indian landscape with grace and femininity. It's all beautiful symmetry and intricate detailing and you really get the feeling it was built to represent an enduring and eternal love.
The Indian men seem to be more and more fascinated by me everyday, sometimes getting to the point where it is downright rude. A typical conversation goes like this:
Creepy Man: "Where you from?" while rearranging himself on top of his crotch
Me: "New Zealand"
Creepy Man: "Do you have a husband?" at this point he's reaching down his pants
Me: "No. I'm very young, and being married isn't as important in New Zealand"
Creepy Man: Steps closer. He smells like wees. "You are very nice looking. Nice white-skin. You would make the nice pale babies" now he's having a full on, fervant scratch of his bits
Me: "Um, thank you, I guess. Oh, look, heres my train! Nice to meet you!"
I can normally cope with it, but on particularly hot, chaotic days where I havent a wink slept because of the mice in my room, I tend to flick them the birdie and a nasty glare before they start up a conversation.
I caught the night train from Agra to Delhi last night, and opted to book the cheapest class possible - Sleeper Class. I reasoned by telling myself that this is an adventure, I am young and how bad could a 13 hour train ride possibly be? Well, my carriage smelt like poos and curry, the man opposite my bed enjoyed watching me sleep, and I had to haul my big pack up to my bunk and spoon it so that it wouldn't get stolen. Despite all this, I actually had a rather solid sleep! For the last few nights we have been staying in shitty monkey-infested hostels with no AC so I think the motion of the train combined with the fresh air coming in through the open windows lulled me to sleep. Although, I must admit, it is rather difficult to close your eyes when you know the man across the aisle will be staring at you all night long.
Tomorrow I am all set to explore Varanasi, India's most holy city - this is where people bring their dead loved ones to burn them over the river Ganges. I have heard the stink of human flesh is rather overpowering at the moment because of the heat, so i'm going to take a cloth to cover my nose and mouth. Should be interesting. Will keep you posted!
