Spur of the moment

My American friend and I had decided to try snake. We had spent an absorbing day exploring the bustling streets of Hanoi’s old town trying as many of the local delicacies as possible. We savoured the rich, smooth taste of weasel coffee, even after we had learnt that the coffee beans had been digested and then excreted by the weasel; tried duck foetus with its distinctive crunchy texture and washed down several rubbery frogs’ legs with a cold glass of ‘bia hoi’ which provided a welcome respite from the afternoon’s sapping heat. Whilst slightly sceptical as to the authenticity of snake as a local delicacy we were intrigued and were told that ‘Le Mat’ area was the place to visit.
In the evening we jumped in a taxi and made our way through the city’s teeming streets. Despite our best snake impressions through charades, which included hissing sound effects, there was some confusion as to where we wanted to go. We eventually arrived at a restaurant down a remote track outside of the city. We were not in ‘Le Mat’ but the restaurant had snakes in cages and was filled with large groups of locals enjoying diner.
We were sat and provided with a menu that had pictures of a variety of exotic animals including turtles, porcupines and snake. Explaining to the hostess that we wanted to share one snake between us, preferably a small non exotic species, proved quite tricky. We didn’t want to end up with a ten foot python or hooded cobra on the table! Fortunately the family on the table next to us, who spoke a little English, helped us with the order and invited us to join them.
A water snake was bought out in a brown sack, which twitched as it moved inside, before two handlers skilfully gutted the snake in front of us by drawing a knife from its throat down the length of its stomach. The intensity of watching this spectacle was heightened by the pulsating atmosphere in the restaurant. The family explained that drinking the snake’s blood and bile, which is mixed with a local spirit, is not only good for diseases and tackling fatigue but is meant to enhance virility in men! When these drinks were served in shots we eagerly drank them. The strength of the spirit overpowered the taste of the blood and bile although I could feel the heaviness of the blood. A number of dishes were prepared using the snake including spring rolls and fillets which were flavoured with a combination of ginger, garlic and chilli pepper. Enjoying diner with the family was a great way to end the day.