Italy's Best Kept Secret

Not everyone awakes on the Amalfi Coast on their Birthday. The highlight of my 6-week trip through Europe had arrived!

Most would choose Positano, the darling of the Coast, however, I discovered Praiano, an authentic little village 10km away.

Lunch was booked at a beautiful rustic restaurant, carved from the cliffs 40 years prior. It sits just around from the natural harbour of Praiano Marina.

I stumbled upon it the day before after the seductive coffee aroma had lured me inside a café in the tiny cove, tucked away below the notorious Amalfi Coast Road. Blink & you’d miss it!

As I sat outside sipping my coffee, marvelling at the rugged beauty of the coastline & ocean, I noticed a few people disappearing around a corner, were they walking on water?

Not one to ignore a mystery, coffee finished, I followed to explore where the path lead.

Around the corner lay a track, expertly carved out the cliff face, that lead not only to a lighthouse, but also to Il Pirata a family owned restaurant. Sunbeds & umbrella’s sat on carved platforms below, next to the ocean.

With views rivalling a postcard, it was the perfect place for a celebratory lunch.

The owner, Maria greeted me “Ciao Bella, Buon Compleanno” she’d remembered it was my Birthday from the previous day.

My feast was simple & delicious, succulent grilled local prawns served with hand cut fries, accompanied with a glass or two of a local crisp Vino Bianco.

If delicious food, spectacular scenery & the perfect sunny day weren’t enough for the memory to live on forever, then it would have been the friendliness of Maria.

I enquired how long she had owned the restaurant, “Since Papa bought the mountain with my Uncle” nodding to the gentleman looking after the sunbeds.

They’d found the spot fishing & decided it would be perfect for a restaurant & bar.

Maria described how they had chiselled out the inside to form the kitchen & bar area, showing me the framed & much prized 1st photo, taken from the tiny fishing boat, pre Il Pirata days.

I fantasised how I’d hire the villa just along the cliff & sit on the balcony & write, expressing how much I loved the little village of Praiano. We laughed & she offered me a job, should I return to Italy.

I sat quietly, breathing in the salty air, exhilarated I was living the moment that I’d dreamt of for years.

No amount of planning would have made the day more perfect. That it naturally unfolded, created a memorable travel moment, a Birthday I’ll cherish forever.