Annabelly

Getting Internet here is so complicated. COmputers never work and when they do, they aren't very reliable. So, I finally have the chance again. I am in a cafe in Udaipur where the internet is free, and the nice man that works here just offered me half of his chipatis and dahl lunch. It is very impolite to eat and not offer food to others here in India. It just makes me kind of uncomfortable. Anyway, so much has happened since my last e-mail that I don't even know where to begin. I have done some shopping and have fallen head over heels in love with Indian textiles. I had better start honing my sewing skills if I think I am actually going to be able to use all of the fabrics I want to buy. So hard to refuse though; they cost NOTHING! A few days ago we went out for a tour of Jaipur. The land rover took us out into the country where were went to a 17th century palace and the adjacent temple. It was gorgeous and looked like a tropical Versailles. After that, we went to what we have been told is the "Monkey Temple." I have asked people in Jaipur if they have been, but they have never heard of it by that name, and quite honestly, I don't really know why it is named that when there is so much more than monkeys to be seen. From what I gathered from the monk that led us through, it is a pilgrimage site for Hindus all over the India, particularly here in Rajastan. We went on a very holy holiday, Ganesh's Birthday, so everything was decorated in flowers and monks sang mantras over the loudspeakers. It was amazing. It was built in a canyon and rose in three tiers, each holding a HUGE pool of holy water. THe bottom tier was the women's pool, the middle the men's. and the top for the monkeys. The men and women swam and bathed in their pools, praying and scrubbing each other's backs. Thre were over 1,000 people in the baths, everyone was naked, women charmed snakes on the stairs, and people jumped off the surrounding cliffs, barely missing landing on their friends. It was crazy! At the top, the monkey's drank the water, ate peanuts, and then turned around and defecated into it. Gross, I really don't like monkeys. We decided to hike above the monkey temple to the top of the hills surrounding Jaipur. It was about a 700 foot climb, but well worth it. We could see for miles from the top and it really gave a good visual of where it was that I am living for the next 3 months. Two days later, we left for our trip over to Udaipur where I will be for the next 10 days. I was all excited because plans changed and instead of taking a bus, we ended up taking a train. I was under the impression that an all night train meant compartments with 3-4 births per room. I was also excited because it would mean air conditioning for the first time in forever. The train station was crazy. Basically, it is a cement campground. People bring blankets and firewood, and set up camp between cars and rickshaws while they wait for the train. Everywhere there was singing and It was hard to drive through for fear of running over a little Indian family. The beggars here were also some of the most determined I have ever met. They grabbed, pulled hair, and tried to pry into our backpacks. I don't think many Westerners ride the trains, we seemed to be a very odd commodity. According to India time, our 10:15 train arrived at 10:40. When we boarded, I definitely did NOT find individual compartments, but instead, three tiers of births, all facing each other, in one big communal car. To the left, 6 beds folded out from the wall. When open, my face was less than two feet from my sleeping neighbor. There were six of us traveling together, but we were spread all over the train. As the only Western girls on the train, we were all three a little bit nervous. We had computers, passports, ipods, and our girl parts, and none of us felt like having stuff stolen. So, we sent the boys off to bribe people and find a way to get us all into one little alcove. After a lot of arguing, we finally did it. By 12, we were all tired and everyone was refusing to take the top bunk. The top bunk was about 7 feet off the ground and left about 2 feet of headroom- if that. Not wanting anyone to start an argument, I took one for the team and hoisted myself up. I realized then that the sheets we were provided with were not actually supposed to be yellow, but had turned that color after years of sweat accumulation from the hundreds of people that had laid upon them. Above me, the air conditioning blasted down and I was freezing, actually shaking, I was so cold. I grabbed the nice fuzzy brown blanket they had provided me with, and laid it over my sheet. A few minutes later, I turned on the light to find my pillow, and realized that fuzz was not the fuzz of the blanket, but massive clumps of pubic hair, facial hair, and head hair that had also accumulated over time. So disgusted, so tired, and so annoyed, I just rolled over and accepted my fate as waking up with body lice and ringworm. This is India, you just can't care. I don't think anyone really slept on the train. I know I woke up with a massive headache after hitting my head when I sat up abruptly after one of my malaria medicine-induced nightmares. Everyone else seemed puffy, hungry and just disgusted. Spirits definitely improved though as we rolled into Udaipur. Called the "Land of Lakes," it is a beautiful city with yes, lakes, amazing architecture, and right now, after the rains, impressive greenery. Driving through, we were all so excited. THe shopping is impressive, the palaces incredible, and all in all, we were really looking forward to a hotel where we could all hand out after 6 in the evening and eat meals together again. Enter the Gulmohar Palace. Inappropriately named the "Palace," the Gulmohar MOTEL is something between a ghetto Motel 6 and a inner city drug den, only there are a few more dead bolts on the door and thicker bars across the windows. Similar to the sheets on the train, these were also yellow, only this time, they had stains of all colors, shapes and sizes, including one that was still wet and smelled of urine. Thankfully, I have had a smilar experience before, and I brought a silk sleeping sheet. I am now able to lay back, enshrouded by my silk cocoon, and appreciate the talent of people that can somehow make foot tracks up the walls to the ceiling, spill brown liquid across an entire wall, and paint a Hindu swastika in lipstick above the headboard. I will NOT be getting body lice here. The shower and toilets are a different story. Well, this is long enough. MY friends all left me and I have to walk home alone. I have my mace, but if you don't hear from me in a few days, maybe panic. No, don't really, it might just be that the internet doesn't work. Off to rest and then see some more palaces and temples. Hope all is well with everyone back there. Miss you all!!!!!