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Experience Oman

The crack

OMAN | Saturday, 10 May 2014 | Views [246] | Scholarship Entry

Ahmed, my guide in Oman, rushed up. We had been travelling for the last three days and not once had I seen him troubled or in a hurry. “Insha’Allah,” he used to say every time he felt I was anxious.

We were walking upstream the Wadi Shab River. 30 feet below us, the dark green river made its way to the Arabian Sea, leaving behind turquoise pools bordered by white rocks. The narrow path was carved in the cliff. In time, the steps of thousands of hikers polished the stone, making it slippery.

“Let’s try to move faster,” said Ahmed, looking at the dark clouds above.

He explained that a sudden rainfall can flash flood the canyon and prevent us from seeing the secret cave at the end of the trail. Ahmed described it as a natural wonder worth hiking and swimming for. What he didn’t mention was that I had to dive through a really narrow gap in order to get inside.

It all became clear when I noticed the small opening in the rock wall blocking our way. Even though I was aware of my claustrophobia, I decided to give it a try. Just entering the crack, a wave splashed my face. I swallowed a serious amount of water. My lungs were fighting for air. I panicked.

I was once again that five years old girl, trapped in a swim ring, with her head underwater. It was my first swimming lesson, but somehow, the instructor thought I was more advanced. He threw me in the pool, through the rubber ring, head first. By the time he realized something was wrong, I was barely conscious.

In the Wadi, 23 years later, I managed to calm down and swim back. I was ready to give up, when a girl, just exiting the cave, noticed my predicament. She invited me to try again, this time focusing on her head while swimming. I did that. It was reassuring to look at her black hair while she lead me through the corridor. In my mind, the rocks disappeared and we were just two swans, floating gently on a lake. In no time I was in.

Patted by the mild rays of light, I was smiling at the waterfall hidden inside the cave. I had to move my hand through the emerald water to convince myself it is real. The gurgle of the waterfall was music to my ears. Everything around seemed to rejoice with me.

Back outside, I was curious why Ahmed didn’t come to see the wonder he praised so much.

“I’ve never been inside,” he said.

“Why?”

“Oh, I’m claustrophobic.”

Tags: 2014 Travel Writing Scholarship - Euro Roadtrip

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