I was in Shaxi ancient town a day ago. Shaxi is a cute town with some traditional buildings and cute town life but nothing too special. And it's in the process of becoming more modern for domestic tourists. Ive decided that Chinese domestic tourists are one of the worst kinds but thats for a different post. I passed a chance to go rock climbing but that's OK because I got to also see a Bai ethnic band play for free at our hostel and go on a mountain hike to see some ancient carved grottos representing Bai buddhism and the possible worship of a "female reproductive organ". If I didn't know any better though I would say the rock carving was probably a coffee bean.
I also ate the best pizza in China at Tumu's Kitchen. Tom was the Luxemburg chef who's lived in China for ten years and only likes living in small towns. So when Shaxi becomes modernized he will move somewhere else. Until then, I hope he continues his new pizza kitchen in Shaxi! It's really small and at first I was a little disappointed to see the single table as the only place to eat at but the pizza was delicious and he plans to do more as he has only been open for 3 months. We were all so Hangry that night too we almost left but I'm glad we didnt!
Before Shaxi was Lijiang for 2 nights.
Lijiang was pretty good for a small city. Its was touristy and has a great nightlife in the "Old Town" but its also not too special. The water flowing was nice and fairly clean but I didn't find the iconic lantern photo. Once again though the public bathrooms were really nice and free! Unfortunately I had to spend too much time in them...
I also bought pu'er tea and some yak dairy taffy. I paid too much for everything but only because I found out it was cheaper somewhere else. I managed to use a good punt of Mandarin that day too so I'm kind of proud of that!
The best part of Lijiang though was October Inn and the manager Tom (another one). He dresses like a ten year old with a striped shirt and ball cap but he is the kindest most attentitive host ever. When our bus dropped us off in the middle of town and we were lost and confused he came to pick us up and show us the way. Since five people don't really fit on a mo-ped he haggled a taxi for us. We also had 'family' dinner and the bunk beds were amazing. Solid wood princess style with stairs! Something right out of pinterest. It was our best hostel yet and I really considered asking to work there.
That's enough for now. I'm in Dali right now taking a slow morning. I'll be updating again. Eventually.
