Travels, and such...

Los Arcos is a small village of Roman origins in the Spanish province of Navarra, close to the border of Rioja and the town of Logrono. Perhaps you’ve arrived here via the pilgrim route while traveling the Camino de Santiago, or maybe your bus from Pamplona broke down; whatever the reason, do yourself a favor and go check out the Church of Santa Maria de la Asuncion. You’re in for a possible life-altering spectacle.

Located in the Plaza de Santa Maria, building began around 1175 and continued through the 18th century (though there is little of the original church left). Incorporating several design approaches popular during its drawn out building schedule, it is a hallucinatory, schizophrenic tapestry of architectural styles that is possibly one of the most beautiful testaments to faith to be found in this region.

An impressive Greco-Roman style structure with an elegant Renaissance tower, Baroque retablos can be found throughout the church and a stunning mid 18th century Rococo organ is set over the nave while Rococo murals spread across the choir (which you can freely access for a better view). Gothic and Romanist sculptures populate the retablos, and a peaceful Gothic cloister awaits you across the nave. The ultimate jaw-dropping embellishments, however, must be the abundant Baroque designs that seemingly cover all the walls and ceiling. You could conceivably think the over-detailing would be jarring, but quite the opposite is true. A calming serenity prospers: the adornment is not excessive but exquisite, with a sincere, unaffected quality.

If you’re lucky, you might be present when one of the nightly masses is given, dedicated to the pilgrims on their way to Santiago. The earnest and humble service might move you to tears while gazing at the splendor surrounding you. Perhaps, amongst the intricate yet effortless loveliness, you might rediscover the simple glow of a religion you long ago discarded? I know I did.