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PHILIPPINES | Friday, 21 November 2014 | Views [753] | View Smaller Image

There were about 20 travellers who came and left when I was in Kalinga. They all came to get tattoos from Fang-Od. The tattoo is done using two bamboo sticks, one of which has a thorn attached to it while the other is used for tapping. The ink is made of soot. This is a photograph of her giving a tattoo to one of the travelers who came to visit her.

Fang-Od is a 93 year old Kalinga tattoo artist. She lives in Buscalan, Kalinga - about 15-16 hours by land from Manila. To get here, a traveller will have to take a 12 hr bus ride, about 4-5 hrs of jeepney ride, another 1 hr in the minivan and a long trek which can take 2-3 hours, depending on your level of fitness. This is the home of the Butbut tribe. Back then, the people here were known to be fierce warriors and headhunters for centuries. Today, I would consider this as one of the most peaceful places that I have been to. It has no phone signal and the people are very friendly and welcoming.

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In Kalinga, people take pride in their tattoos. Kalinga male warriors who triumphed in battle and brought home the heads of their fallen opponents receive tattoos from the mambabatok (tattoo artist) as a symbol of honor, while tattoos given to the women are aesthetic in nature. Scholars believe that this tradition was practiced for centuries, but over the years, the tribal wars gradually ceased and tattooing headhunters discontinued. Fang-Od makes a living by giving tattoos to travelers from all over the world who seek their dying craft.

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