Welcome to Alaska!
I was greeted upon arrival in Luxor, Egypt. Working in the
depths of a temple tomb excavation at the foothills of South Asasif in 114
degree heat, dense white dust soaking into my sweaty Egyptian cotton shirt, the
last thing I would expect is the inability to stop laughing. I was in awe of
the strength and endurance of a team of over 80 local men, hauling hefty loads
of rubble on their shoulders in cumbersome rubber baskets ascending a steep
plank of wood out of the tomb, and descending with massive limestone blocks
tied with ropes and a dozen men easing them down. Yet I was more shocked by
their attitude: despite the sun and hardship of their labor, these guys knew
how to laugh. I couldn't understand the nature of all their jokes (and possibly
some of them were about me) but to share in their amusement was welcomed and I
was embraced as a member of the team. Lesson one: keep your sense of humor!
This applies to almost every (potentially awkward) encounter you might have
with the locals.
1. Slowly, slowly...
Being from Los Angeles, with its deadlines and traffic, and
a clock always ticking, it's part of my nature to rush. But in Egypt, I learned
another kind of pace. Whether walking down the road to catch the ferry across
the Nile, or digging for fragments of hieroglyphics from the debris in the
tomb, I was reminded again and again, "slowly, slowly". Taking the
advice, I found I could endure the sun's beating and work longer. Walking
leisurely allowed me time to look around, carry-on a conversation with
strangers, and find myself in unusual new circumstances. One afternoon, I made
friends with a felluca captain who made me a glass of hot karkaday on his boat,
and in silence to the sway of the Nile beneath us, we enjoyed the sun setting
over the West Bank. I had places to go and people to meet, but it is a memory I
will never forget.
2. Shukran
Gratitude can take you far, and I've never been so grateful
for the hospitable nature of strangers. Walking in the afternoon heat to get to
the East Bank for errands, when most of the town is napping and a taxi isn't
available for hours, I received countless rides from perfect strangers. Perhaps
this shouldn't be recommended as "safe" but after a month living in
Luxor I had encountered nothing but kindness. Spontaneously one morning I
caught a ride with an American couple who were being driven to Abu Simbel (with
the lack of tourists this year, flights to southern Egypt have been cancelled).
I had no idea how lengthy the trip would be: 14 hours of driving roundtrip. But
the two hours we spent at the remote temples of Abu Simbel were well worth it;
standing alone in the Holy of Holies facing the four sculpted figures of
Ra-Horakhty, King Ramesses II, Amun-Ra and Ptah, I truly felt like a time
traveler. The long drive home was filled with deep, overwhelmed exhaustion, and
when our tireless driver stopped in a little town along the way to invigorate
himself with a cup of hot tea, I joined him, thanking him profusely for his
zealous driving: "Shukran! Shukran!" He was pleased, and shared his
tea with me. (I also made sure to give him a good tip!)
3. Habibi illa'abed
Most memorable of all the imagery I was immersed in each day
- the Nile River flowing gently through the city, the mountains cradling their
ancient tombs, and the people working tranquilly in their fields amongst flocks
of cattle egret - I adored the infinite depictions of love painted and carved
with devotion by Ancient Egyptians in all of their temples and tombs. Pharaohs
embrace their wives, or kneel in adoration to their gods and goddesses. Animals
are worshipped and idolized. All of life seems a celebration of harmony between
the stars, the earth and its perfected beings. To glimpse their joys and
passions so many thousands of centuries later made me reflect on my own life
and values, and I feel humbled and inspired to be more devout toward this
experience of life. Lesson four: take something home with you, spiritually
speaking.
4. Insha'Allah
God willing, everyone seems to say about almost everything.
It is a way of expressing hope, faith and fate, which - to me - describes the
Egyptian personality completely. In a country facing so many political unknowns
and poverty at every turn, it is amazing to find so much optimism. I left Egypt
with amazing memories, new friends, and a fresh faith in life.
"Insha'Allah you come back", my Egyptian friends told me.
5 …
Be optimistic and trust in the unknown that lies ahead.
Related Articles:
After the Revolution - Crime and Terrorism in Egypt
Exploring Egypt's Red Sea
About the Author
Dominique Navarro has worked as Art Director in the
documentary television and film industry for nearly a decade for programs
featured on the History
Channel, Discovery
and National Geographic. The
diversity of her assignments has led to an unusual journey working with
everyone from the Los Angeles County Coroner's Office to the US Marine Corps,
and working everywhere from the Salton Sea to NASA. She is also a forensic
artist creating law enforcement composite sketches and reconstructions from the
skull of unidentified persons and ancient archeological remains. You can view
her website portfolio at www.dominiquenavarro.com
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