They're just so freaking colorful; how can you not want to take a ride on one of these old American school buses while backpacking around Guatemala, or any Central American country for that matter?
Being painted in a rainbow of colors and designs, sometimes adorned with knick knacks from the rear-view mirror, the chicken buses feel like a party on wheels, especially with all that crazy whipping around corners and extreme stops and starts.
Or, maybe that's just all of what makes them a bit on the unsafe side of Guatemalan transportation. This guide will help explain the ins and outs of the various public transportation methods of this Central American country while focusing on the ever-so-popular chicken bus.
(Colourful but not always reliable)
Chicken Bus Concerns
The fact chicken buses are old and out of use school buses from America should raise some concern. Maintenance safety concerns are always an issue, and it is said that faulty brakes are responsible for the January 2011 chicken bus crash into a ravine near San Marcos killing 14 paramilitary persons (no tourists).
Still, the concern is probably less on the ratty old bus parts themselves than on the treatment and control of passengers, and just plain driving recklessly on some of the worst roads – often one-lan and on mountain sides – in the world. Reports claim that the overcapacity of a bus in March of 2008 led to the brakes faltering and a bus running off a ravine near Guatemala City killing 45.
While these sorts of accidents are gruesome, they are actually few and far between considering just how many chicken buses are running throughout the country at any given moment.
Chicken Bus Concerns for Tourists
Given the above, it's suggested to not take a chicken bus when it appears to be too crowded, or after nightfall.
If you ride in a chicken bus throughout Guatemala, you may be hanging on for dear life at every corner, but the real concerns according to the owner of a transportation association in Guatemala is simply not speaking Spanish and therefore paying too much money (this goes for any type of transportation in the country). To avoid overpaying, ask locals for rates and even pay attention to what other people on the bus are paying before handing your fee over to the assistant. Once you open your mouth to ask, they may see the opportunity to gouge prices.
Buses outside of Guatemala City generally are safe in terms of robbery (who wants to rob a bus full of poor people?), but inside the city are well-known for getting taken advantage of regularly by gangs, especially after dark. The recommendation is to take a proper taxi or private shuttle throughout all zones of Guatemala City.
One major concern of travelers in Guatemala is the safety of their luggage on top of the chicken buses. As with any travel, having a day-pack with important items with you at all times is wise. However, a traveler said he once used chicken buses with luggage on top more than 100 times during his stay in Guatemala to have each and every piece of luggage returned properly.
Chicken Bus Alternatives
Numerous forms of transportation are on the table in Guatemala, everything from boats and tuk tuks to private shuttle vans and taxis.
A popular plane route is from Guatemala City to Flores (near Tikal) which can save heaps of time for tourists.
Tuk tuks are readily available in small towns across the country.
A transportation association lists shuttles and private vans as the safest modes of transport for tourists and getting held up would typically be a matter of the driver “making sure that the van is in the 'right' place at the right time”.
Other Issues
Traffic in Guatemala City is notorious for accidents. One traveler online notes seeing two car accidents on a short 12 kilometer drive from the airport. To avoid traffic, it is best to avoid peak hours and head out early in the morning if possible.
The Western Highlands – the mountainous side of Guatemala – should be driven with extreme caution as roads tend to have sharp curves and narrow lanes. Even the route to Antigua from Guatemala City can be littered with rock slides and debris, and this is even worse during the rainy season from April to October.
Locals warn against walking or driving around Lake Atitlan because of bandits quick to rob tourists. The boat taxi from San Pedro to Panajachel is recommended instead.
Farm animals, such as cows, on the road are a concern in the rural areas of the country, giving just another reason to take extreme caution when behind the wheel.
The Pan-American Highway has been getting upgraded for a while, but in the process has seen the effects of landslides dumping huge amounts of rock and dirt on the road, closing lanes along the journey between Quetzaltenango (Xela) and Guatemala City. Be prepared for debris, construction and delays at any time.
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Crime in Guatemala
Shake, Rattle & Roll
Guatemala Health & Disease
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