The political climate in Myanmar has long
been under a cloud of oppression with the government holding full and total
power over just about everything within the country. Accusations of government corruption, from child labor to
drug trafficking have abounded for decades with few brave enough to stand up
against the regime for fear of retaliation and persecution.
Democracy Denied
One leader, Aung San Suu Kyi, a
pro-democracy advocate and Nobel Peace Prize winner, led her party to overwhelming
victory in the 1990 elections. The
government, however, never allowed the newly elected officials to take
office. Suu Kyi was subsequently
placed under house arrest. She
retaliated by publicly requesting that a boycott be placed on all tourism to Myanmar
because she felt that it would only financially benefit the corrupt leaders in
charge.
(Image: UNPO)
In
2009, Suu Kyi recanted her previous statement. Her
position was further clarified by her political party, the National Democratic
League, in a statement issued on 10th May 2011. The
full text of the statement is worth reading, as it points out the many social,
economic and environmental difficulties facing the country.
NDL Tourism Statement 2011
For
example, the statement details how improper tourism development threatens to
kill off one of the country’s most precious drawcards – Lake Inle:
Deforestation has caused
soil erosion landslides, sedimentation and climate change, causing the surface
area of the lake to shrink by half over the last thirty years. Uncontrolled use
of fertilizers and pesticides for the floating gardens, undisciplined discharge
of waste chemicals from weavers and smiths and the disposal of untreated sewage
and waste water form hotels and restaurants have polluted the lake so badly
some of the rare species of fish are near extinction. As the water is no longer
potable, the local people who have lived off the lake for centuries are now
obliged to get their drinking water from distant sources. The climate has
changed so precipitously the whole ecological system has been upset to the
extent that the development potent of the tourist industry itself is
threatened. It is no longer permitted to open new hotels, inns or restaurants.
The
NDL statement calls for regulation of tourism to protect Myanmar (Burmese)
culture:
While tourism could
enhance the economic life of the people of the host country by creating new
jobs, bringing in hard currency and raising the standard of living, it could
also have negative consequences if environmental issues are ignored and the
meeting of different cultures and social values are not approached with
sufficient sensitivity.
Whole communities in
Burma have been harmed in the interests of the tourist industry. Local
populations have been displaced, often without due compensation or satisfactory
relocation, to make way for the construction of hotels and other tourist
facilities. To be uprooted from ancestral villages often means the loss of
livelihoods as well as homes. To make matters worse, forced labour is used for
some construction projects. The net result is economic hardship exacerbated by
the abrupt breakdown of a traditional way of life and gross violation of basic
human rights.
While recognising the important economic role responsible tourism can have for the country, the NDL says true political reform is the only solution to the problems.
Now, fifteen years on
(from the NDL boycott of ‘Visit Myanmar year 1996’), the human rights record
has not improved in Burma and in spite of the efforts of the International
Labour Organization, forced labour can be found in many parts of the country.
Such abuses can be stopped only through appropriate political measures and not,
as some hope, by an influx of foreign visitors. Many of the bigger tourism
related businesses are still owned by members of the families of those in
government or their cronies; the claim that a large percentage of the industry
is in private rather than in government hands overlooks the crony factor.
The NDL sees hope in a tourism industry that is based on respect for
art, culture and tradition, and welcomes tourists who share that goal. Tacky
souvenirs, mass-marketed holidays and sex tourism are not welcome:
The challenge is to reap
the benefits of a vibrant tourist industry that would give a much needed boost
to the economy while keeping negative consequences to a minimum information on
which travel agencies, hotels and other facilities are free from government
affiliation, from social exploitation and from human rights violations could be
provided for prospective visitors by travel agencies and human rights
organizations. Positive discrimination in favour of businesses engaged in
effective outreach programmes and environmental conservation should be
encouraged.
The NLD would welcome visitors who are
keen to promote the welfare of the common people and the conservation of the
environment and to acquire an insight into the cultural, political and social
life of the country while enjoying a happy and fulfilling holiday in Burma.
Responsible Tourism
If you support the beliefs of Suu Kyi and the NDL and wish to visit Myanmar you'd be well advised to do more than the usual amount of research into your travel provider and accommodation. Choose carefully if you wish to avoid facilities which are in the control of the junta and their cronies.
Some groups who have long supported ethical tourism to Burma because it has a more positive effect than a boycott, have advised on how to travel responsibly:
- Do not take a government tour. If you feel more comfortable taking a tour than traveling independently, make sure your tour company is a private company. Lonely Planet and several other publications provide lists of tour agencies in Burma that indicate which are government-owned and which are private. Apply the same principle to restaurants and hotels.
- Travel independently. Although some areas of the country require a special permit for travel, the government has yet to ban independent travel in most parts of the country. Travel independently and you’ll likely enjoy greater access to and more interaction with local people.
- Allow locals to introduce sensitive topics. You will undoubtedly speak with many people during your visit to Burma – it’s one of the joys of traveling there. If a person wishes to talk with you about politics and challenges, they will find a way to do it in an environment that is safe for them. They know the undercover police better than you.
- Spread your money around. Stay at private guesthouses, eat street food, patronize private restaurants, buy water and snacks from street stalls, and collect your souvenirs from different vendors. In other words, buy from ordinary citizens and don’t spend your money all in one place.
- Try to avoid government transport. The government of Myanmar makes it difficult to avoid this completely. However, if you can bear long, uncomfortable trips, buses are the least government-affiliated type of transport. Otherwise, consider the train or a private airline. Myanmar Airways, the government airline, is relatively easy to avoid when booking flights.
(source: Uncorneredmarket.com)
Other Tips
Protests
Public demonstrations and protests are
illegal. The government will use
force if necessary to break up any such gathering, so it’s a good idea not to
join in. In fact, even taking a
picture of a demonstration could get you into trouble. Distributing politically motivated
material, particularly anything pro-democracy in nature or any literature that criticises the regime could land you in prison. There have been two such arrests in recent years, so take it
serious. Visiting the homes or
offices of Burmese pro-democracy leaders, such as Aung San Suu Kyi, may also
result in an arrest. What’s more,
if you take a taxi there, you could get the driver in some serious trouble as
well.
Religious
Beliefs
The people are extremely religious and take
their Buddhist beliefs very serious.
Regardless of your personal beliefs, while in Myanmar you should always
show respect to any religious monuments and sites and honor the customs. When visiting a pagoda or a monastery, for
example, be sure to remove your shoes and socks and avoid wearing shorts or
sleeveless shirts, as they may be considered offensive and disrespectful.
Government
Control
Myanmar is still under heavy government
control so expect stringent restrictions on freedom of speech, religion and
movement. One thing remains
true: if you are visiting Myanmar,
you are being watched. You
probably won’t even realize it’s happening, but at some point during your trip,
especially if you go to more rural areas that aren’t frequented by tourists,
the authorities will be keeping a close eye on you. As long as you avoid illegal activity and political
protests, you will likely never even be approached.
(Talking politics with locals will get you, and them, into trouble)
Some activities that are sure to get you
noticed by the authorities include participating in political events and
protests, discussing politics, openly criticizing the regime, handing out
pro-democracy literature and spending time at locations relating to any Burmese
pro-democracy leader. It’s also a
no-no to take pictures of anything military, police or government related as
it’s considered a security risk.
Be very careful when you snap that camera, or you could end up in
prison.
General
Info
There are certain times of year when
politically motivated violence is more likely to occur. Public holidays like Armed Forces Day,
which falls on March 27th, and Martyrs Day on July 19th, have
seen an increase in violence and terrorist acts. Anniversaries of previous uprisings against the government
also present a higher risk. If you
are visiting during one of these dates, you’ll probably notice an increase in
security forces. Avoid large
gatherings and anything that could be perceived as a protest or demonstration.
Even with the 2010 release of Aung San Suu
Kyi, Myanmar is still a country facing political turmoil. And while tourism is now welcomed
there, it’s important to understand and respect the current political climate
in order to remain safe during your stay.
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Travel tips for Myanmar
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