Mon 2nd
Left early dragged the cases to the M and got to Gard Est and waited for our train to Reims. First class seat and only 45 m to enjoy it. Plenty of street works in Reims but found Europcar and took delivery of a Renault Laguna – very classy. Located the hotel eventually after negotiating detours and motorways to complete what should have been an 800m trip. Freshened up and drove out to Epernay to meet with champagnes governing body the CIVC (Comite Interprofessional du Vin de Champagne). Violaine de Caffarelli discussed the growing regions and their varieties and their different conditions both soil and climate – the terroir. Chalk is the key providing good drainage but also minerals that come out in the taste of some champagnes. She also explained the history of the CIVC and its current role in managing so many champagne houses. They have about 100 staff many providing cultural advise in the vineyard and marketing and promotion later. The CIVC also decide when the harvest will commence. We then had a tasting of 3 very different champagnes. A Les Vignes d’Autre fois 2006 which was entirely Pinot Meunier (PM which is very unusual). Next was a blanc de blanc of only chardonnay (C) and finally a blend 30% C and 70% Pinot Noir (PN). Then a tour of the specialised tasting room. Then a 30 min drive back to Reims and a further 30 to find the hotel – Le detours! Then no parking available – at ground level in the building however there was a lift (of the car type) down to floor -1. Yet another new experience. Walk and dinner after looking at a champagne shop.
Tue 3rd
B’fast on the 7th floor overlooking the cathedral and city. Tourist bureau – as you would then decided on a visit to the cathedral – without doubt the best we had seen both in its architecture and stained glass windows. A must do. Another champagne shop visit this time making 3 purchases and a walk back to the hotel to deposit them. Then we walked 30 min to Veuve Cliquot for our visit. As we arrived a black limo pulled up and 4 giggling American girls got out while the chauffer organised a tour for them. As most French people are on holidays our tour was a group one – with the limo’s contents.
All went well however very informative and great visit down into the cellars (25 km of them) followed by a Le Grande Dame opening by me (Norm that is) and Le tasting.
Wed 4th
After checking our insurance we found only the excess was covered for car hire and we hadn’t taken comprehensive cover for the vehicle so back to Europcar – 30 min for 800 m. They ended up cancelling the lease and opening another one but with a Ford ? Ghia. So be it. Drove 1.5 h South to the Cote des Bar region (no lunch) and the champagne house of Drappier in Urville for our 2 pm appointment. We were met by Frederick Van Ceunebroeck who is in charge of exporting. We had an extraordinarily detailed visit of the winery and cellars now in its 7th generation of family ownership. We viewed the largest champagne bottle made – the 30 L Melchisedech (60 kg filled and around €3,000) then met Michel Drappier briefly before going to the salon for a tasting. Michel joined us for a while and we had a very relaxed chat about vines, wines and families. He warned us his father may visit – no English then had to take a call. Enter Monsieur Drappier a charming octogenarian who introduced himself. Michelle was very capable with the language and he was a charming host. Michel’s daughter Charlaine entered with 3 other visitors – more tastings of different vintages including a Blanc de Quatre Blancs (4 white grapes) Arbane, Pinot Blanc, Petit Meslier and some chardonnay and a zero dosage one (no sugar liquid added after disgorgement) – very different and refreshing. We departed at around 6.30 for our accommodation in nearby Meurville at Earl Champagne Perron Beauvineau – yes another champagne house. Due to our late arrival and lack of anything other than champagne in our stomaches we declined a tasting and dropped some gear of before driving 10 k to Bar sur Aube and a restaurant. Michelle had the specialty of the region and will now take over.......
The speciality was a sausage made from offal, very highly seasoned and quite strong in flavour O.K. as a once off. Norm couldn’t eat it. Drove back to Meurville. The bed and breakfast accommodation was very nice, the spiral staircase up to it meant we decided to just unpack what was necessary for the night. The following morning the breakfast was typical French rolls, jam and coffee. Chocolate cake was also on offer. The owners son and his fiancée gave us a tour of the caves where they assured us that it was not too early to have a champagne tasting. Champagne according to them knows no hours!!!
Thu 5th
We returned to Drappier on our way south to purchase some wine and posters. Mon. Drappier farewelled me Michelle with a double kiss and an adieu, a delightful man, quite the bon vivant. The drive south was mostly on motorways which cost us about 25.00 AUD in tolls. Spent the night in Nevers, had Chinese for tea and retired for the night.
