I lived in Munich for over 5 years and the reasons that I ended up leaving had nothing to do with not liking the city. Julian had visited a year earlier, I had been away 10 years and Tim had no memories of the city at all. We decided to purchase a day pass for the public transport network (MVV) and have a look around at some of the major tourist sights and then seek out a couple of the places that had nostalgic interest for us.
We got off the Sbahn at Karlsplatz (Stachus) and walked along Kaufingerstrasse an up market shopping mall towards Marienplatz. It was lively and bustling, everyone rugged up for winter and rushing somewhere or other, probably to exchange their unwanted Christmas presents. We stopped in for a look through the iconic Frauenkirche then hung around for the clock to strike the hour to see if the glocklenspiel dancers were going to do their thing. They didn’t. I guess it isn’t every hour. Then we climbed a nearby tower (Rathaus perhaps?) for a view of the city. Unfortunately it was very overcast and we couldn’t make out very much.
We then continued on the very trodden path via the Residenz, Hofgarten and Herrenfeldhalle (famous for the political speeches) to the Siegestor (Arc de Triumph of Munich). Then further along Leopoldstrasse where we reached the University. We stopped for a minute at the Gesschwister Scholl Platz where I explained the sad and brave story of the pair, professor Huber and others in the “White Rose” Anti-Nazi movement centred around the University.
By this time Timmy was freezing cold so we jumped on the underground for a couple of stops to warm up – getting off in the Schwarbing area that is the home of many of my old haunts. Many were still there including Schawbinger 7(surprisingly), Podium and Shamrock but a few have demised such as the Tomate Bar and Guenter Murphy’s (perhaps they’ve moved ?).
We walked then to the Englisch Garten, stopping for a Gluehwein (hot chocolate for Tim) at the Seehaus. We took the chance to walk across the frozen lake – which was another first for Tim. We watched some locals playing their version of Curling (Eisstockshiessen) and others skating around. Following this we headed further north to Kieferngarten to see the student hostel that the boys mother had lived in when we met and where I had taken refuge for a short time while I was homeless between flats. We stopped at a Kebap shop for Julian to have a Doner – which was a favourite of his from Berlin then headed north to have a look at the new Allianz Arena. The arena is white but in illuminated Red or Blue depending on which of the two local munich teams has a home game there. It was only when I went to take a snapshot of it that I noticed my camera missing. I couldn’t believe it would have stolen because although it is possible, it is unlikely in Munich and sure enough it was still at the Kebap place where I had left it when we got back.
After the stadium we went to Rotkreuzplatz (Red Cross Place) where I had my first apartment in Munich and a place that I have very fond memories of. Further along Frundbergerstrasse I discovered my old “local” the “Frundsberg” has now become “The Big Easy” and is a New Orleans style bar. By now it was dark and cold – but we walked the extra distance to the Taxisfrauenklinik where the boys were both born. Unfortunately the biergarten / restaurant across the road was closed, but we had a quick look in and found the playground that Julian used to play in while his father drank litres of beer and ate Obatzder with large Brezen on Sunday afternoons was still in tact. In fact the carousel style ride that we had christened his “rundherum” was still there and in perfect working condition so the boys took a ride in the darkness. By this time it was late and we were all tired – we walked back to the Ubahn by a different route, stopping only for a moment to watch the ice-skaters a while on the Nyphemberg canal.
It was a very pleasant day, as I have said I have many fond memories of Munich and think it is a very rich, diverse , interesting and “liveable” city. I am told it remains very expensive, especially in terms of the cost of accommodation. That is always relative to your income of course and the very low unemployment in Munich (in absolute terms as well as compared to the national average) indicates that many people are able to not only just cope, but live very well there.
