"I'm going to Tucumán," says Martín, the man
sitting next to me in the double-decker bus' top row. He is slight of frame
with inky black hair, a touch of the Andean blood, so prevalent in Argentina's
northwest provinces, graces his features. We slouch in our comfy cama suite
chairs and watch the throng of passengers swirling among the row of buses at
Buenos Aires' Retiro bus terminal. All the seats behind us are empty, but
rather than being annoyed that we are forced to sit next to each other I am
grateful for his company.
I'd just parted ways with a good friend and been swindled
for 30 pesos by a taxi driver who tried to strip me of 45. To say I was not
looking forward to an 18-hour bus ride...well, that would be perfectly
accurate. I was truly on my own and heading to Salta, the destination I chose
for my first one-month trip in what was to be a string of eight such trips. I
don't know what could have prepared me for what I saw along the way (and I'm
not talking about the two hours of Bon Jovi videos).
Within moments of boarding the bus it was backing out of
the station. Lumbering through lanes of traffic heedless of other vehicles,
pedestrians, or laws, I witness suddenly destitute neighborhoods with
dirt-packed streets. We amble past Aeroparque and through the suburbs as the
bus whines and rattles. Martín and I communicate through a combination of
Spanglish and pantomiming. I show him photos of my wife, family, and friends,
and attempt to describe the northwoods of Wisconsin. I then feel the now common
swelling in my sinuses, like a warm breeze before a storm, that precipitates
tears. Martín works as a programmer at a bank in Buenos Aires, and he's going
to Tucumán to visit his sister and her newborn.
We glide through heavy traffic and past a Wal-Mart of all
places. And then the city is gone. It's familiar countryside reminiscent of
plains that stretch away from major rivers in the United States. About an hour
later, we pull off the road into a sketchy dirt parking lot. The bus is loaded
with nondescript brown packages from a nondescript building. I briefly wonder
about drugs and then shake my head at the silliness of the thought.
It's full dark when we pull into Rosario, one of
Argentina's largest cities. Beneath the bridges and overpasses rough-and-tumble
shanty cities sprout like mushrooms. They've been cobbled together with
detritus: rotten and decayed wooden boards, rusting corrugated metal, sticks.
It's a quarter past ten and a mother directs two children in the placement of a
new stick on the roof. Even the dark of night couldn't help the city keep its
The bus is considerably more packed after picking up
passengers in Rosario. Dinner arrives shortly and I'm generally perplexed by
I watch Martín scarf down the greenish custard and then
test a nibble. I speedily move on to breadsticks and try to sleep through a Bon
Jovi video marathon. The familiar yet alien landscape is blotted out by the
night, and only our shared culture of technology, a few pricks of light on the
black canvas, remains. I recline the seat 180 degrees and plunge into a fitful
I awake just after dawn somewhere in northwest Argentina.
The landscape has given way to scrub brush, gnarled trees, and haze. Spare
tires and shreds of tarp dot the shoulders of the road like kilometer markers.
A chicken pecks in the dust. Massive nests hang in the skeletal trees. It's not
beautiful, it just is. Whether by little effort or little success, man has made
little dent along this stretch of Argentina.
The ever-present hum of the bus engine doesn't disguise the
sound of hot flesh squeaking on the seats as people shift in their sleep.
Someone has done evil in the bathroom below me. We enter the town of Santiago
del Estero. I hardly breathe as we cut through its streets. It is a ruin of
crumbling buildings and dirt roads choked with trash and the occasional dead
dog. The beautiful dawn light is powerless here. In the distance, greasy black
smoke roils skyward that I later learn to be burning trash. I think that my
virgin eyes have finally fled.
Tucumán is little better. As we enter the province I see a
dead horse, abandoned on the side of the road, with a gang of vultures at the
buffet. In the city, Martín wishes me good luck and disappears. For the next
several hours, I reflect on my writings about authenticity
in travel and realize that this is it.
After a grand total of 20 hours, we pull through the
mountains and into Salta. It is high on the hog compared to Santiago del Estero
and Tucumán. Part of me wishes that I could have slept through the trip, that I
had flown instead, but another part knows that the bitter pills are usually the
ones that make us grow. Travel is not always glamorous. The places we see are
not always designed to make us feel comfortable. This was another world, a
place where life is lived very differently from my own.
And I grew.
La Mascara - First Impression of Salta, Argentina
Argentina - Opportunities for Cultural Immersion
Behind the Backpack
After almost eight years in the corporate world, Keith checked out to follow his dreams of traveling and writing. He is the creator of Traveling Savage, and he now splits his time between his wife and home in Madison, Wisconsin and Scotland’s rills, hills, and valleys.
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