Marty's World Journal

Any random day

wingnut — Thu, 9 Aug 2012 21:08:00 GMT

It was sound advice to be giving after a month in Vietnam. “One thing a day” I was saying to Daniel. “If you get one thing done a day you can be happy”. We were talking about getting our bikes fixed, but it applies to most things in Vietnam. The wheels turn slowly and the six things you have on your To-do List will take six according days to complete. I was surprised today when I took stock and realized that I had broken my own rule.

Id like to give a sample of a single day. But giving a list of a days events without context wont make much sense. So, a brief history. Arriving back in Hanoi from Ha Long Bay the day prior, I met an old friend, Daniel, buying a baguette, as I turned into the street in which I was staying. Having not seen each other for a week we agree to catch up for beers in a few hours as he’s riding north the next day. My mission is to advertise my bike first. Having written the ad for Suzi 125 I get a fresh pair of eyes to check it over for mistakes. Suzanne has arrived in Hanoi four days prior and is on a 6 month break. She gives it the once over and after a few minor changes the Ad is good to go. Beers are on and Suzanne is up for coming along with me, Daniel and now Uri and Noga for a drink. Daniel, Uri and Noga are planning on heading to Sapa on the bikes the following day and im planning on heading the day after that. Suzanne had planned to take the train to Sapa, but seeing as I’ve got space on my bike I offer it, and, as anyone with a sense of adventure does, she replies yes.

Any random day: Thursday 9 August 2012 - Hanoi

Waking up before your alarm is always a nice start to the day. Beating my 6:30 alarm by 15 minutes I check my phone for emails and messages on Skype, Viber and Facebook. I’ve got 45 minutes to get ready before meeting Suzanne for breakfast. Plenty of time to take it easy as the other six people in the dorm aren’t even stirring and I wont have to wait (or feel guilty) while spending my time in the single bathroom. Getting ready as quietly as I can I pack a small day pack and a bag of laundry which I need to have done before heading off the next day. There’s a free breakfast of bread, preserves, tea, coffee and bananas provided by the hostel. Im halfway through when Suzanne arrives. We had agreed the night before to meet at 7am as we both want to go and see the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum.

Strolling the street towards the Mausoleum I drop off my laundry and we find a moto rider by St Josephs Cathedral. A negotiation later and the three of us (moto drive, Suzanne and I) are on a single bike headed to the Mausoleum. After a short wait and passing through metal detectors and a mountain of guards we’re inside the Mausoleum to see Uncle Ho (ONE). While in the area we check out the Presidential Palace (TWO), the HCM Museum (THREE) and the Botanical Gardens (FOUR). Walking back to the Hostel I spot Daniels bike and ten seconds later Daniel. He’s getting ready to head to Sapa and we excitedly say we’ll see him in a few days. Back at the hostel I prepare some posters for selling my bike, get them printed and hang them up (FIVE). I also pay some bills and send some emails (SIX). I need to get the broken rack on Suzi 125 fixed so I pick her up to get some welding done. 20m from the car park she dies. I had half expected this as the gremlin in the charging system from Phong Nha was always waiting to rear its head and she had been sat up for four days. As quick as I can get off the bike a young Vietnamese guy is guiding me to his store and motioning that he can fix it. An hour or so later and with a new voltage regulator/rectifier Suzi’s charging system is firing. I had always anticipated this was going to be a problem so getting it out of the way now was reassuring before heading to the remote northern roads (SEVEN).

A few stalls later and I find a welding shop and get the pannier fixed (EIGHT). While the mechanic is doing this I make the most of being in a city and stock up on a few essential items (NINE). A storm is looming as I park Suzi up for the night and head back to the hostel. Just as I walk in the door the rain hits. Timing! As the weather is bad I spend the rest of the afternoon planning the route north (NINE) and blogging (TEN). Ten things done and its only 6pm. And that reminds me. Laundry (ELEVEN). Shit, im finally working this place out.

Photos: Phong Nha National Park

wingnut — Mon, 30 Jul 2012 17:10:00 GMT

Tien Son Cave, Phong Nha Cave, Paradise Cave

Phong Nha

wingnut — Mon, 30 Jul 2012 17:06:00 GMT

Starting the day with a motorbike stack isnt much fun. Lucky for me its not me or my bike involved, but my recent acquaintances, Dan, and his hired scooter. Exiting the downhill driveway from the farmstay and turning left, Dan makes the mistake of looking at the rice field and the steep embankment he is trying to avoid. Fortunately the only real injury is to Dan’s pride so we continue our ride along the rice terraces to the small boat dock in the town.

Phong Nha Cave is the worlds longest wet cave and is accessible only by boat. Having been given the hot tip from other travelers, Dan and I charter our own boat to avoid being stuck with 14 Vietnamese tourists for the journey. Our two crew deftly pilot the small boat down the river for 20 minutes before making a left turn and docking at the mouth of a cave in a cliff face. They ask us if we want to make the climb up to Tien Son cave before coming back to boat through Phong Nha. Tien Son is well worth the short but steep climb and while psychedelic lighting has been installed, it doesn’t detract from the formations and their size.

Back on the boat we pass into the shadow of the cliff and into the cave mouth. Its immediately clear that while the cave mouth is immense, the body of the cave has disappeared. The boatwoman kills the engine and begins punting the boat towards the back wall. To our disbelief there is a gap between the river surface and the roof and approaching slowly, the boat squeezes under the low roof. A few minutes later we enter the massive cavern of the main cave. The immense block that screens the entrance of the cave made this cave impregnable during the war, when it used as shelter by the local people and army. The cliff face we passed under bears testament to this and the pockmarks of a few US rockets.

Punting through Phong Nha cave is a wonderful way to appreciate it. We make a few stops along the way and walk around the dry caverns. Having made an early start proves its worth and as we’re heading back the hordes of Vietnamese tour boats are making their way through the cave with guide and bullhorn.

Lunch and a swim at the farmstay round out midday before making a late start to Paradise Cave to again avoid the crowds. Paradise Cave was considered the largest cave in the world until a new cave was found close by in Phong Nha National Park. While this will surely be open to tourists one day, its currently off limits to all but those who can pony up the right bribe (currently US$8000).

It’s a solid uphill hike (or limo-golf buggy if you are Vietnamese) to Paradise Cave before dropping through a small entrance onto the top of the longest staircase in Vietnam. The staircase is level with the ceiling of the main chamber and disappears into the darkness and the floor. The entrance and main cavern of Paradise Cave is immense. I can’t articulate what it’s like to be in such a large space. The cave formation is 7km long and a boardwalk has been constructed for the first 1km to which tourists are generally allowed access.

Guided tours can be arranged for hiking 6km deeper, but they aren’t cheap and not many people have done it. The 1km stretch is not one chamber but made up from 5 or 6 separate halls. Passing through smaller connecting spaces only provides a sense of scale and perspective of how large each chamber is. Each one is unique. Like passing thought different sections of a theme park, each chamber offers a different world. Staying until close, Dan and I are in awe. While other tourists race in and out, we spend their entire time in one section.

That night, Dan and I are eager to make arrangements to see the remaining 6km and get this organised for the day after tomorrow. I spend the following day working on Suzi and by midday her charging system and speedo are working again.

It dajavu as we head back to Paradise Cave. Dan and I have met Urie and Cordelia the night before and Urie has signed on for the trek too, making three of us. We meet our three young Vietnamese guides at the park entrance and hike up to the cave mouth where we entered two days ago. Geared up in coveralls, boots and headlamps we enter the cave and walk the familiar 1km boardwalk. Where we turned back only two days prior we step down off the end of the main lit boardwalk and are soon entering darkness lit only by our head torches.

For the next seven hours we’re in another world. The landscape changes with every new cavern. A white waterfall and river of quartz, thick mud with bottomless holes formed by water droplets falling from the cave ceiling hundreds of feet above, a lunarscape of pools. However, the halfway and turn back point is the climax. Approaching our stop for lunch the roar of an underground river gets louder and louder until we reach the source of the noise. The cave the river runs thought has a whole in the ceiling that reaches hundreds of feet up and to the sky. A passage of light shines down to massive rocks forming the river bed. We eat lunch of the rocks and then swim in the river after.

Too soon our time is up and three hours later the world becomes familiar again as we climb the staircase back to the board walk and the surface.

Photos: Khe Sanh to Phong Nha

wingnut — Fri, 27 Jul 2012 15:58:00 GMT

A long, long days ride

Khe Sanh to Phong Nha

wingnut — Fri, 27 Jul 2012 15:52:00 GMT

Ho Chi Mihn West is one of the best riding roads I’ve ever been on. It twists and turns, rises then falls and for the whole time im largely on my own in a beautiful national park. However, I had a problem. Tam’s advice in Dong Ha was crap. Covering 250km had taken almost 8 hours. Suzi’s tank was almost empty, it had gotten dark, and I was still 20km south of Phong Nha, or at least that’s what the mile markers were showing. There is no mobile signal to check my location.

Exiting the desolate national park I spot the first person I’ve seen for a couple of hours and stop to ask him the way to the town and fuel. He says that he is about to ride there and that I can follow him. After 10minutes im not so sure he’s heading the right way and im concerned that im wasting the little fuel I have so I turn back to a cross roads that we had passed. Riding in what feels like the right direction there is a Toyota Hi-lux stopped on a bridge.

It’s a fair assumption to make. An expensive car in a remote area of Vietnam is going to be owned by a wealthy and therefore educated person. The assumption’s right and the owner of the hi-lux and his wife speak great English. They also have a mobile phone with signal and are more than courteous in calling the farm stay, leading me there, and also stopping at a fuel shack so that I can put a couple of dongs worth in.

The owner of the farmstay reluctantly rides out to meet me on the highway and ten minutes later I see the lights of the two storey building. Arriving at the farm stay is a massive relief and im wasted when I get in to bed late in the night. Waking the next morning I open my eyes to look out of a first floor window over vivid green rice fields to the mountains beyond.

Preparing for a chilled day after yesterdays massive ride, Im sat eating breakfast when Pavel invites me to join him and Ben (owner of the farmstay) on a ride to explore some of the tracks around Phong Nha. It sounds like fun and we spend the rest of the day getting covered in mud, crossing rivers, and generally riding road bikes in dirt bike territory.

While Suzi does a great job, the day takes its toll and when we arrive back at the farm stay her speedometer has stopped working and, as I would find out later, the voltage regulator/rectifier too. While I’ll get around to fixing this, it will have to wait as tomorrow I plan to go to the caves of Phong Nha.

Hue to Khe Sanh

wingnut — Thu, 26 Jul 2012 19:17:00 GMT

Hue is the most civilized Vietnamese City that I would visit and marks the halfway point up Vietnam’s coast. The Citadel (impressive) and tombs (which to me, are vulgar and would be the worst place to spend eternity) it merited no more than two days stay. Hue is close(ish) to Phong Nha, one of the main things that brought me to Vietnam, so I was keen to keep moving. Getting back to the Trail I took the road south west. While not in good condition, it runs along a mountain ridge for 3 hours of scenic riding to Phu Loc.

Pressing on from Phu Loc, I make it to Dong Ha before dark. Based on advice from people in Phong Nha I stop in at Tam’s Café to get some food and information about the road north to Phong Nha. Tam tells me that if I head up the coast the next morning I can see the Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) and the Vinh Moc Tunnel, and that so long as im back in Dong Ha by 11am I'll make it to Phong Nha by 4pm. Tam also advises me that there is a festival in town and that I should check it out’tonight. Wanting to get an early night, I head out to the market and festival for a bit. There’s a show and dancing outside the newly constructed museum, but its hard to tell if this is the rehearsal or the main event. Heading back to the hotel I grab a drink of Sinh To (chunks of fruit that you mash up with a spoon and then add crushed ice) which is a very nice local dish.

Getting up early on Thursday I jump on the bike and head north to the DMZ and Vinh Moc Tunnels. Approaching the DMZ the landscape radically changes as you pass thought the old north/south divide. Due to the extent of pollution not much grows. Passing over the bridge and pass the firebases that formed the north/south divide it’s not far to the Vinh Moc Tunnels where whole villages lived underground for the duration of the war. The Tunnel formation is more impressive than the Chu Chi Tunnels outside of Siagon, and save for a Vietnamese family, im the only visitor. A handicapped local guy shows me around the tunnels.

Back in Dong Ha earlier than Tam advised I make my way along the road I traveled the day before towards Khe Sanh. Coming past the Rock Pile for the second time, im stopped as they are blasting it for mining. Arriving in Khe Sanh I’m well advanced on Tam’s advised schedule and decide to make a quick detour to visit the former airbase, now turned museum. There’s some military remnants including a Huey, Chinook, tanks, and exploded ordinance shrapnel. Keeping on schedule I get back on Ho Chi Mihn West Trail and look forward to the ride to Phong Nha.

Photos: Hue to Khe Sanh

wingnut — Thu, 26 Jul 2012 14:52:00 GMT

Valley ridge ride, Hue to Khe Sanh to Dong Ha to Vinh Moc to Khe Sanh

Dak Glei to Hue

wingnut — Tue, 24 Jul 2012 21:00:00 GMT

Well on the tourist trail, the former port town of Hoi An is now defined by its many tailors and beach resorts and accordingly is one of the most expensive places in Vietnam to spend time. None the less it’s an enjoyable place to spend a few days walking the streets.

Daniel catches up with us in Hoi An and Uri and Noga are eager to meet a fellow Israeli traveler. While in Hoi An, Daniel and I visit Yally Tailors and spend an hour chatting to the workers and walking though the workshops out the back. They can produce (rather, replicate) any item of clothing except for hats. A tailored suit in any style will cost between 100 and 600USD the only difference in price being a result of the material you choose.

I also need a haircut and find a local guy whoes up to the tasks.

My Son (Cham ruins) are a short distance from Hoi An and I get an early start one morning and make the ride out there. Its Vietnams Angkor and worth the trip. Thanks to the early start im leaving just as the tour busses arrive.

Making it back to Hoi An for midday I meet Helen at the hostel. Helen is eager to check out the beach and we spend the rest of the day at a small resort on the shore.

That evening we head into town for a few beers and while leering over a Honda 67 I get handed the keys by the owner and promptly fall in love with this beautiful little motorcycle. Tomorrow I plan to leave Hoi An and head up the coast to Hi Van Pass.

Leaving Hoi An I make my only deviation from the Trail and follow the coast north towards Hue. I want to ride over the Hi Van Pass, just north of Da Nang. Shortly after leaving Hoi An I arrive at the Marble Mountains (fmr mine site which is now protected) and take the short stroll to the top. There’s a nice surprise as I find a large and impressive cave within one of the mountains.

Pressing north and through Da Nang I take time to head around the peninsular and explore Monkey Island. A stunning view and giant marble statute are the reward, together with some empty, twisty and overgrown riding tracks.

Leaving Da Nang I prepare for the ride over the Hi Van Pass. A lot is made of this coastal ride, even more so since Top Gear visited Vietnam and claimed this as one of the best coast roads in the world. Entering the first corner Suzi doesn’t feel quite right and by the time I lean her in for the linking right hand turn the back end is feeling loose. Dammit, a puncture! Pushing the bike back down the hill, I’ve gone no more than 200m when there’s a road side shack selling cold drinks. The owner looks at me and then points to a number scrawled on the crash barrier with the text “Lam Lop” – Tyres. There’s no point in me calling a mechanic that can only speak Vietnamese, so I get the shop owner to speak to him. Within two minutes two guys turn up on a scooter with a puncture repair kit and pump. A price negotiation and 15 minutes later im on my way and climbing the Hi Van Pass.

The Hi Van Pass is an impressive road. But…there are much better to be found in Vietnam. And while they may not offer coastal views, the jungle, valleys and mountains are, to me, far better. (Dong Van to Meo Vac is, in the true sense of the word, EPIC – blog entry to come). Dropping down the back side of the Hi Van it’s a gun barrel run to Hue, the former capital of Vietnam.

Photos: Hue

wingnut — Tue, 24 Jul 2012 19:06:00 GMT

A day in Hue

Photos: Dak Glei to Hue

wingnut — Mon, 23 Jul 2012 21:40:00 GMT

Dak Glei, Hoi An, Da Nang, Hi Van Pass, Marble Mountains, Monkey Island, Hue

Dalat to Dak Glei

wingnut — Mon, 23 Jul 2012 20:47:00 GMT

I had been told by other riders I had met in Saigon that the road from Dalat to Nah Trang was amazing. They weren’t wrong. Slipping the bike into neutral it was silent and fast downhill riding for over an hour. The view to the coast through a steep waterfall lined pass was amazing. Even more amazing was the change in temperature. Perched in the hills Dalat had been cold, but dropping to the coast every 100m resulted in an increase in heat and humidity.

Arriving in the coastal city of Nah Trang we were surprised to find most hotels fully occupied thanks to Vietnamese school holidays. We eventually found a guesthouse just off the main strip and headed to the beach for a swim. Nah Trang is known for its beaches, diving and party scene. It’s a touristic place but a fun city none the less. Walking the city that evening we were bombarded by touts for local bars. Treating it like a game, its fun. And when one girl from the bar next to our hotel sees us being targeted by a girl from another bar 100m down the road, they both become very animated in competing for our custom.

Daniel and I spend the morning in a nice café where the owners son takes time teaching us basic Vietnamese. We leave being able to say hello, goodbye, menu, what is it, how much, sorry, bill, count, swear and probably most important say, “oh my god that is too expensive.” In the afternoon we walk along the beach and to the Cham towers north of the City. Getting back into town we bump into Claudia who I previously met in Saigon staying at Lofi Inn. We head out for dinner and then to a few pubs/clubs where we meet Tom. Tom has spent time in Nah Trang previously and tells us about a great beach a few km south of the city. Daniel and I had planned on heading north the following day, but decide to meet up with Tom in the morning and spend the day at the beach instead.

Tom’s beach is great. An aussie expat has an unassuming setup with shaded loungers and tables on the sand offering good food, beers and water sport equipment. We spend the day chilling, swimming and paddle boarding. After an hour we all get moderately proficient at the latter and form the centre of attention for the Vietnamese beach goers, to the point where a guy in his 50’s borrows our board and paddles it like a kayak. Encouraging him to stand up, he gives it a go. His response to our celebration of his success is to monkey hug us in the water. Male boundaries for contact in Vietnam are limited. Getting back to Nah Trang late we’re invited by the café owners son for drinks after dinner. Here we learn a few things about Vietnamese culture (the invitee always pays for drinks) and the divide between North and South Vietnamese. The café owners son passionately hates people from the north.

Heading north from Nha Trang along the coast Daniel and I split up after an hour on Highway 1. He’s keen on following the coast and I want to follow the Ho Chi Ming Trail inland. I head back up into the hills and spend the night at the nice and less visited city of Buo Ma Thuot. Leaving town the next morning for Kon Tum I have my second run-in with the police, again for speeding. The cop is cool and lets me go with little more than the warning of “Cham Cham” – Slowly Slowly.

Getting back on the Trail I head to Kon Tum via Plaiku. The road is shoddy but Kon Tum is a nice place to spend the evening. On the advice from another traveler I take the walk across town to Eva Café. Set up by a local artist/wood carver, it’s a nice place to chill for an hour and eat.

Its a late start the following morning and I arrive in Dak To around midday. There’s a large Rong in the center of town where I stop to break. Im preparing to get back on Suzi when a Minsk (Russian bike) with two travelers pulls up next to my bike.

Uri and Noga are from Israel and are doing a similar trip through Vietnam. They offer me some coffee and food and we sit beside the Rong chatting about our adventure so far and the plan ahead. Noga points out that the Laos border is not far away and that they might go and check it out. I join them on the side trip to the border where we walk around the Vietnamese border buildings like we’re running the place.

Unable to source Beer Lao we settle for a Vietnamese beer before continuing our journey. Vietnam and Laos must have big plans for this border crossing as a four lane highway is being constructed to Dak Glei. The road is great and being downhill makes for a fun and fast ride. Arriving in Dak Glei we’re faced with the usual battle to find a guesthouse that will take us. Because we are not Vietnamese, we are sometimes not welcome. There are rules limiting some guesthouses ability to accept non Vietnamese travelers, but sometimes I feel this isnt the case. After protracted discussions, and Nogas nice way, we get a place to stay. Uri and Noga cook an amazing dinner followed with some potent champa.

A side trip the next day sees us cross a muddy mountain pass to a small village. We do some exploring and Uri and Noga make another simple yet nice lunch. Hitting the Trail we spend the night in Thanh My at a nice guesthouse where Noga tells me that Nha Nghi is Vietnamese for guesthouse, which comes in useful later. The next morning we ride to Hoi An.

Photos: Dalat to Dak Glei

wingnut — Fri, 20 Jul 2012 20:09:00 GMT

Ho Chi Minh City to Dalat

wingnut — Thu, 12 Jul 2012 20:33:00 GMT

Arriving back in HCMC from Cambodia Suzi wasn’t happy. She had developed a tapping top end which meant one of two things, either the valves required adjustment or the rockers were gone. Making matters a bit more stressful, I had not thought ahead and had zero Dong when I arrived back in Vietnam. I had filled up with fuel just after crossing the Cambodia/Vietnam border (they accepted US), but 200km later Suzi was now running low and I hadn’t spotted an ATM for a while. Getting close to the center of HCMC I was scouting for an ANZ bank with a bike running on fumes and sounding worse by the minute. Half an hour out of the city center I found an ANZ and a service station. With at least some cash and fuel I was ready to navigate the traffic back to Lofi Inn. At Lofi I was greeted with a warm welcome from the staff and, after traveling for a few days on my own from Siem Reap, was immediately assimilated into the group of other travelers out for dinner and drinks on Bui Vien.

The mission for HCMC was simple. Get the bike fixed by Dhan and his crew, buy the gloves I had seen the last time I was in town, and get some extra foam put into Suzi’s seat to make the long days more comfortable. The gloves were an easy but expensive trip to the other side of District 1. Next door to the bike shop I get some extra foam put in the seat ($3). Back at Dhan’s mechanics I find my old mate and his chief mechanic and, after a bit of bad Vietnamese and sign, established that the rockers have worn flat and need replacing, together with a new cam chain, oil filter, and oil. Establishing (watching over) that he is competent with the task, I sit back and wait in the café over the road. Enjoying a café su da I spot a guy looking for bikes at the mechanics and beckon him over. Daniel has looked at a few Honda Wins and wants to buy one to ride north. Not knowing much about bikes himself, I offer to take a look over the ones he’s interested in. I wait to establish that my mechanic has pre-oiled the new rockers and set the timing right (the hard part of Suzi’s fix) and head off with Daniel to check out the Wins. We find one that is in good nick and after taking it for a test ride and exchanging mobile numbers I leave Daniel to negotiate a price.

Getting back to Suzi, I find her almost finished. I buy the mechanic and myself café su da’s and also ask him to replace the front brake pads. Total damage for this work, 600,000VND ($35). The night before I’d met Jen and we had arranged to go to the Water Puppets together at 6pm. The Water Puppets are well worth it are located next to local dance studios where we see large groups of Vietnamese learning ballroom. Getting back to Lofi we meet the others and head out for dinner and drinks on Bui Vien where Daniel meets up with us. We agree to ride out together the next morning. Destination Dalat.

Daniel and I get an early start but don’t make it to Dalat as planned. The Dambri Waterfalls (80m) distract us for too long and we only make it to Bao Loc. Like many tourist attractions in Vietnam the Dambri falls have had the Disneyland treatment including a bit of a lame theme park, shops and a vulgar lift built on the left side of the falls which take away from the natural beauty, but they are still impressive. Bao Loc is a nice enough place but few tourist stop there. We enjoy walking the town, checking out the lake, and the interesting sculptures of the Jesus Story around the perimeter of the local (massive) Christian church. We later find that Bao Loc has made its money from the tea plantations that surround the town.

Riding to Dalat from Bao Loc we pass though Di Linh and also stop off at Pongour Falls which luckily are still in thier naturally beautiful state. The road to the falls is also one of the nicest we’ve ridden so far. Beginning the ascent to Dalat it starts to rain which is something that we’ll later get used to while in Dalat. On the mountain pass we find a great little waterfall which provides a nice rest stop, including a friendly Vietnamese stall owner. Getting into Dalat we find our preferred hotel full, but the family own one opposite which we decide to stay in. This proves to be a mistake the next night.

Walking around town that evening we find the town square full with a clothes market while the main market (Cho) is pumping in the terrace below. Checking out both we’re surprised when we find a nightclub looking place. Standing outside were can hear a band, so we go in to investigate. We’re quickly ushered to a booth and shown an expensive drinks menu (100,000vnd for a beer, $5!!!). The place has a strip club ambiance, but its not. The six piece band is playing a vaguely familiar song but being instrumental its hard to pick. Only where the flute comes in do we realize its Hotel California. Surreal. A Vietnamese instrumental rendition of Hotel California in a whiskey bar/night club. We stay to hear what they have in store for the next song. Much to our surprise they have a vocalist and even more surprisingly, she’s not bad. But, as the drinks are crazy expensive we head off. We stumble upon a small basement bar which has a cowboy theme, but its warm, dry, has a pool table and is also deserted.

The following day Daniel and I checkout the Chicken Cathedral, Crazy House and The Royal Palace. The Crazy House is a highlight and generally evokes a love or hate response. Dalat has spectacular mornings but it rains most afternoons. Walking back from the Palace in the rain im not feeling too great so turn in for an early night. At 10pm I wake up to banging that continues for 10 minutes before my phone begins ringing. Its Daniel. He’s come back to find the gate at the front of the hotel locked and no one around. I go down stairs to find a guard who usually sleeps in the lobby, but its empty. Exploring the rooms out the back I see a guy passed out on the bed with the TV blaring. Giving him a poke gets no response so for the next few minutes I escalate my efforts to rouse him which ends up with a smack to the face. The guy is blind drunk and can barely walk. After 10 minutes of fumbling though all the hotel keys, cash and passports he falls asleep slumped over the reception counter. another poke and he stumbles down the corridor and crashes face first onto his bed and passes out. After going through the desk myself and chatting with Daniel through the gate, the owner walks though the rear door with the key and opens the gate. We decide to find a new place the next morning.

Feeling like crap in the middle of a cold, Daniel and I walk around to find a new place to stay. Caught out again with no rain gear it smashes it down and we get stuck in a small local café for a few hours. We end up checking into the hotel next door but one to the one we are already in. Its cheaper, nicer and we get a top floor corner room with great views. There are also a few other travelers staying so we meet some new travelers. While searching for a new hotel I find one with a piano which is a rarity in Vietnam.

Waking at 6am im still not feeling 100%, but with good weather outside and only one more day in Dalat, its time to climb Lang Bien Mountain. At 2169m it’s the largest mountain around and offers spectacular views over Dalat. Arriving at the base we’re met with the typical Vietnamese Disney land. Jeeps to lazy tourists to the lower mountain peak, dodgy souvenirs and a horse painted like a zebra with a Vietnamese rider dressed as a gay cowboy. WTF. Getting an early start we’re the only people at the summit, and after waiting 20mins the clouds clear to give a spectacular panorama. On the climb back down we cut through a small resort where a group of young Vietnamese are roasting a chicken and sinking a few beers. They invite us to join them and share a beer. They all work at V-Club, one of night clubs in town, DJ, door men and dancers, we get a kick out of the male dancer who shows us his moves and another invites us to come and check the place out that evening.

Getting back to town around midday I head over to the place with the piano and make the most of it for an hour or two. It’s unlikely I’ll see one again for a few weeks. I meet up with Daniel back at the hotel and run in to some crew from Saigon - Jen, Conner and co. Daniel and I head out to play some pool at the again deserted cowboy bar. Its not deserted for long as we’re met by a Canadian couple who kick our ass at pool. Before turning in for the night we want to go and see our V-Club crew in action. The club is typical of any back home, but the doof-doof V-pop is turned up to 11 and drinks are similarly ridiculous. We’re disappointed not to see our dancing friend in action. We get back before its too late as we’re riding down to the beach side town of Nah Trang tomorrow.

Photos: Vietnam - HCMC Round 2 and Dalat

wingnut — Sun, 8 Jul 2012 21:11:00 GMT

Photos: Cambodia

wingnut — Fri, 6 Jul 2012 23:16:00 GMT

Kampot, Kompong Trach, Phnom Penh, Pursat, Battambang, Sisophon, Siem Reap, Kampong Thom, Kampong Cham

Run in with the boys in khaki

wingnut — Fri, 6 Jul 2012 22:41:00 GMT

So today Suzi 125 and I found the only speed camera in Vietnam! We had crossed the border from Cambodia back to Vietnam about an hour before and were cruising in the car lane, just coming out of a town. A man dressed in khaki jumped into the middle of the road waving a baton and blowing a whistle. Luckily i had been pushing Suzi a bit hard coming into town and was taking it easy to allow her to cool down a bit. Still, apparently 55 was not easy enough. After pulling off to the side of the road, receiving a salute (and not knowing if i should salute back) my passport was taken and i was told to wait. Two minutes later the officer returned and showed me a nice picture of Suzi and I cruising along, at 55, in a 40 zone. Bracing to pull out my wallet, and maybe my hidden stash of US$, the cop spoke in broken english "S-A-F-E-L-Y" handed me my passport and motioned to the road.

There are two speed limits for motorbikes is Vietnam. 40 in towns and 60 outside of town. Lessons learnt - there are actually speed cameras in Vietnam! Pay attention when getting near the edge of towns and dont speed as this is where they put the cameras.

14 Days in Cambodia

wingnut — Thu, 5 Jul 2012 21:29:00 GMT

After an eventful border crossing into Cambodia (see highlight blog entry) I was instantly satisfied. The contrast to the Mekong Delta was shocking and I was met with the beauty of rice field lined open roads that the Delta failed to provide. Cambodia is beautiful. Even if I wasn’t taking it easy because of Suzi’s dodgy wiring I would still be riding slowly to soak this in.

Arriving in Kampot I checked in to Olly’s Place, based on the advice of Jack and Gemma. Six thatched huts make up Olly’s Place, together with a deck and small bar that project over, and into, the river. The huts are very basic, comprising one room on stilts with a bed, mozzie net and a dresser. Another win, Olly’s Place is awesome. After sourcing some parts in town I set about fixing Suzi properly, replacing the main ignition loom. The reward for a couple of hours work, a kayak up the river and though some mangroves. Nice. When I get back to Olly’s I meet Gabby, Eli (USA) and Lizzy (Aust).

The next day, with a renewed confidence in Suzi, I take a ride out to Kompong Trach to see the caves and climb the hill. Climbing up to the caves im met by two local boys who, for a dollar, take me to see Elephant Cave and Bat Cave. Then its off to climb 375 stairs outside Kompong Trach to take in the view. Arriving back in Campot I take lunch at Epic Arts (based on Lizzy’s advice). Epic Arts is operated by local deaf and mute people. Good food and good company, as I get to chat to Heather in NZ using Viber. Back to Olly’s for a quick swim in the river before riding to White Mountain for another epic view. I get an early night as tomorrow im off to Phnom Penh, but not before visiting the Bokor Hill Station.

6am start on Tuesday to make it up to the Bokor Hill Station for early morning as this is when its meant to be at its best. The Hill Station is ruins of an old colonial retreat built by the French in the 1920’s and later occupied by the Khmer Rouge. The best road I have ever ridden on takes me up to 800m and a giant Buda looking out to the ocean below. Another 200m up and thick fog sets in. In the valley is sunny and warm, up here its something out of a horror movie. I cant see more than 50m ahead and everything is dank and wet. The Hill Station ruins appear out of the fog. Unfortunately a restoration project is underway to convert the old hotel into a new resort and the place resembles a construction site. But its still cool. Racing back down the mountain is even better than coming up. Ohhh to have a sports bike on this road (no offence Suzi – please start tomorrow!).

Phnom Penh is a long and hot drive from Kampot. Trying to average 70kph results in an impromptu (overheating) stop where I share a silent conversation with a local farmer in his driveway while I pour some water from his rice field over Suzi. I think he appreciates the company, or maybe the coffee lollies J. Arriving in Phnom Penh is a sharp contrast to Kampot. Its busy and loud and hard to navigate without a map and an iphone with no signal. After some messing around I find the Mad Monkey Guesthouse, it looks like a great place but they are full tonight. I’m recommended the Mini Banana where I stay. It’s nice enough, but with only a few rooms, not that great for meeting other travelers. After a walk around the centre of the city I head to a roof top bar where I meet some crew and shoot some pool.

Another early start to get the most out of Phnom Penh. Walking the waterfront by the Royal Palace the streets are closed off and heavily guarded. A few blocks up theres a protest which a media guy tells me is about land rights. Taking a wide birth I get to the Central Market, not because im starting to like markets, but because its supposedly housed by one of the largest domed roofs in the world. Skipping the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda (its expensive and based on exiting tourist opinion, not that impressive) I grab a tuk-tuk to the S-21 Museum and spend a few hours gaining an appreciation for why Cambodia is the way it is. I check-out of the Mini-Banana and into the Mad Monkey before riding out to the Genocide Museum (AKA The Killing Fields). The Museum is amazingly well done and together with S-21, the main reason for visiting Phnom Penh. The Mad Monkey provides a nice environment to meet some people and chat about the sights.

Thursday makes three dawn starts and Phnom Penh is more pleasant in the early morning. After the hot ride in I decide that for both mine and Suzi’s sake its best to avoid mid-day riding. Its also more enjoyable to arrive at the next destination early in the day. Heading out of the city I brace for the 300km ride to Battambang, stopping at Pursat for lunch. 10km out of Battambang the rain hits. Stopping 20mins avoids the worst of it. Arriving in Battambang I stop for a map check to find the Royal Hotel. Its still raining and when I go to start Suzi she splutters and back fires. After some basic checks she still wont start so I decide to push her to the Royal Hotel. This takes about 20 mins, stares for every local, and no offers for help. Cheers. After checking into the Royal Hotel (nice place with a roof top restaurant and my own room) and having a hot shower and putting on dry clothes I prepare to sort out Suzi. The guys at the hotel chip in and we find out that the HT lead was shorting due to water. While it appeared dry on the outside there was moisture on the inside. A quick dry and some electrical tape sees Suzi back to good. A basic and common problem, I feel stupid for not checking it better before. It won’t happen again. The walk into Battanbang gave me a chance to check it out. Its got a nice feel, and as one of the larger cities in Cambodia, provides an opportunity to get hold of items. Real items, not the genuine fakes or “same same” . I give in and pick up a netbook. These blogs just got a whole lot easier! I also get my security belt sewn up buy a local seamstress who wont take any payment J. The Royal Hotel is popular with travelers and I meet Laura (England) and Zara (Wales) who have both been travelling for two and a half years (including stints in Aust). We decide to meet the next morning and take a tuk-tuk to see the sights.

Friday morning I meet our tuk-tuk driver Phi (AKA Phil) in the hotel foyer. The four of us set off for the famous Battambang Bamboo Train. This 14km rollercoaster is scary as hell. The tracks are bowed, the trains are built to be pulled apart in 30seconds (this is the key feature as when two opposing trains meet, the one with less travelers is disassembled to allow the other to pass) and the driver has an incentive to get where he’s going as quick as possible. The train is great. Phil drives us to the Banan Temple (maybe another 400 stairs), the golden gate bridge of Battambang, Phnom Sam Peau (Killing Cave and Pagodas – including the $100 shack) and the bat cave. The bat cave is home to millions of bats which, at sunset, leave the roost. This is one of the more amazing and unexpected things ive ever seen and the swarm of bats looks like a dragon crossing the sky. I also saw my first monkey in Asia today!!!!

Leaving Battanbang for Siem Reap I head via Sisophon. It’s a nice ride and the road to Siem Reap is in great condition. There is no doubt that the temples of Angkor are what Siem Reap is all about and its definitely catering for tourists, but not in a too commercial way. Arriving in town and trying to locate your pre-researched hotel is usually a challenge. I don’t mind this, but Vietnam and Cambodia like to up the ante. In addition to not knowing where you are or where you’re going, there are no street names or sign posts. Playing by asian-rules I cheat and pay a tuk tuk driver 25c to chaperone me to the Garden Village Guesthouse. Its down a backstreet which I would have spent an hour trying to find. Cheating for the win. Another roof top bar/restaurant at the Garden Village and I meet Laura and Zara again. Laura has found a tuk-tuk driver, who for $40, will take us around for the next three days to visit the major sights and act as a tour guide. Sounds good, so the next morning we meet Bun at 8am.

Bun drives us out to a ferry terminal to catch a boat with a group of tourists to the floating village. At $20 each and with the operator unwilling to negotiate, we decline. As an example, I paid $1 for breakfast (omelet and baguette), so $20 is bullshit expensive. We know we can get it cheaper elsewhere. We drive to the Angkor for day one of temple visiting. Angkor Watt is the largest of the temples at the Angkor complex but it certainly isn’t the only one here, there are heaps! Rather than start with the biggest and best we start the smaller ones and work up. Prah Khan, Val Rac Dac, Tu Som, Eastern Mebon, Pre Rub, Pre Kravan and Ta Prohm round out day one. Unfortunately Bun is useless and when arriving at Prah Khan says that he is not going to come in and tour us as he is too tired. We explain that this is not what we agreed, and that if he is not our tour guide we will only pay him for driving and not use him for the following two days. He doesn’t really care. We find a local boy inside the temple who tours us around. He’s very good and we tip him well. Karma comes for Bun in the form of a massive down pour as we want to leave. We’re sat in the dry tuk-tuk and he’s facing torrential rain with no coat on a 30min ride home. Being humane, I give him my coat. That night we head to the nigh markets which are excellent (as markets go :P) and find a new tuk-tuk driver – Lucky.

Lucky picks up the girls on Monday and I follow on the bike. I want the flexibility of ditching Lucky if he’s no good. Lucky turns out to be okay and for a few dollars agrees to be our tour guide for the major temples. We head to Angkor Watt for sunrise but it’s a bit overcast. Still, its great to see it early in the morning. Next up is Angkor Tom and the Bayon, Deads Gate (where we get some great photos of Suzi) and finally a proper tour of Angkor Watt. An amazing tropical storm sets in while we’re in Angkor Watt and we hear the rain before it hits. An example of the impressiveness of Angkor Watt – each of the four galleries took 1000 men eight years to carve.

Tuesday Lucky picks us up and its off to Banteay Srei Temple. The 3D carvings in the temple are the most detailed in the world. The monkey guards are also cool. Its a two km jungle trek to the river carvings and waterfall at Kbal Spean before taking a well deserved rest on a river boat at Kompong Pluk to see the floating village, flooded forest and a spectacular sunset.

Time for a holiday from the holiday and I spend Wednesday chilling out, writing blogs, doing paperwork, and planning my next move. I do a bit of research on riding into Laos, but Vietnam wins out and I map a route back to Saigon. Its going to take two days averaging 300km a day, with a stop in Kampong Cham.

On Thursday I leave Siem Reap and ride to Kampong Cham. The ride is awesome and Suzi doesn’t falter. Taking the back road from Kampong Thom to Kampong Cham is a risk that pays off and gets me among the locals. However I do hit the biggest pot hole ever on this road but manage to hold it together! I also see the aftermath of a bike v dog accident. The rider is picking up his bike and seems ok. The dog on the other hand looks like his pelvis and rear legs have been broken. Sickly, the dog has crawled to a group of locals who are sitting at the side of the road watching the fallen rider. The dog is yelping in pain but no one pays it any attention. Too busy watching the rider, who they also offer no help. I don’t get this. I feel guilty for not stopping to sort out the dog, but an angry (maybe rabid) dog is too high of a risk. I arrive in Kampong Cham which is on the banks of the Mekong. It’s one of the nicer cities ive visited thus far and I make a trip over the dominating bridge to the French built light house. There’s a staircase to the top. Call me a pussy, but after checking out the state of the anchoring points, I decide not to go above the first flight. I trust French construction, but Cambodian maintenance – not so much. I find a nice hotel ($8 for a large single room with hot water) and a little restaurant on the river bank for dinner. There’s a storm brewing and the lightning is beautiful.

Friday I leave Cambodia and cross back into Vietnam and to Saigon. 1000km, more temples than I care to remember and all for between $20-30 a day. Thanks Cambodia.

The harsh truth:

Like it or not this is the way it is. We may wish it to be different, but its not. Tourism is like a drug and its messing parts of Cambodia up. In for a quick buck, people are disregarding their culture and future. I think I get it, the Kameer are still not used to planning for a tomorrow which, for much of their last generation, never came. With the draw card of Angkor and the comparative cheapness of everything, tourists will continue to come. There is no need be “sustainable”, for keeping the place clean, for stopping people from damaging the temples, for keeping the beggars from pestering people in what was once the greatest place of quiet contemplation in the world. A woman had her three daughters selling postcards and other tourist trinkets around the temples. The youngest girl, maybe four years old, could count to 10 in English, French, German, Italian, and Chinese. What if these girls were at school instead of pedaling crap. They are smart kids. But there is hope, I saw a group of amputees, with a sign stating their dignity and that they were not going to beg, but perform their music to make money. Hand up, not hand out. Respect.

The Rules:

Never, ever, ever, F**KING EVER, pay the marked price or ask “how much”. Do your research, know what its worth, and negotiate. Make a profit, fine, but charging 50-200% the price is ridiculous. Put it this way, if someone tried to charge you $80 for a $20 meal at home, what are you going to do? more importantly, what is the restaurant owner going to do if you do pay?

Set the terms and pay after. There’s no incentive to play by the rules if you pay first. The local term is “No Money – No Honey”. “No Honey – No Money” would make things a lot better.

Check that your guide speaks English before heading off. Actually, make sure that the person you’re speaking to in English, paying, and stating that he will be your guide, is your guide. Terms of a pre-paid contract change quickly.

6 Days through the Mekong Delta

wingnut — Sat, 23 Jun 2012 22:44:00 GMT

Jack, Gemma, Thomas and I rode out of Saigon on Monday 18 June.

We arrived at My Tho late in the evening and were met by a Vietnamese welcoming party of one. This would become a common occurrence, guys waiting for tourists to rock in to town, to either rip off or divert to their friends hotels etc. The moto guy showed us a grand hotel on the river front that had very cheap rooms, but we still wanted to check that it was comparably cheap.

After checking out the main town we realized that the moto guy was following us around. But his hotel was amazing value, so we stayed. The next day we did a boat tour taking in Unicorn Island where we sampled tea with local honey, saw some big snakes, were shown around shanty markets and sampled some fruit. Then it was off to the island of the Coconut Monk (religious sect) before going to a small coconut candy factory and seeing how it was produced, from tree to wrapper. Part of the tour also included holding massive pythons and visiting a crocodile farm.

In the afternoon we set off for Cai Be and the famous floating markets. We got massively lost on the way but ended up riding though some of the most beautiful villages on roads (footpaths) overgrown with trees. After seeing a scary monkey bridge (bamboo) and crossing a few rivers by dodgy ferry and bridges, we arrived in Cai Be. I get the feeling Cai Be is only ever visited by rich tourists during the day, with none staying overnight. Many lowlights (continual tries to overcharge, being woken by drunk hotel owner singing karaoke at 3am etc), but the highlights had to be seeing a local fair which had a ladyboy singing after being introduced by a midget, oh and riding the motorbikes though a hotel. Yeah!

On Wednesday we all jumped on a small boat and were taken around the river to the floating markets. This is equivalent to being taken to a truck yard and watching people unload the goods from one truck into another. Then we were farmed into another market. Hmmm, not the scenic Mekong experience I was hoping for.

Jack, Gemma, Thomas and I split up at Cai Be. I was headed deeper into the Mekong, and they were headed back to Saigon and then to Monnaie. For the first time since leaving Perth I was on my own and headed to Can Tho. Can Tho was pleasant and defined by the massive bridge which you enter on. The street which I used to access my hotel was a tool/spare part market, so I managed to pick up some good tools for cheap. Walking the water front I met some of the girls staying at my hotel that had arrived as part of a tour. We had a few beers and dinner at a nice restaurant on the river.

Thursday I rode from Can Tho to Long Xuyen after being recommended this road as a scenic route by a local in the hotel. Stopping for fuel a local tried to scam me. (The S.W.F.S – Stupid Westerner Fuel Scam – Two people always pump fuel at the servos, one pumping and the other resetting the bowser. When a non-local turns up they forget to reset the bowser so that you pay for your fuel AND the previous one). After explaining not too politely that they should not start to pump until resetting the bowser, I was good, and on the way to Tri Ton, Kien Luong and Ha Tien. Ha Tien is located at the far north west of Vietnam and has increased in popularity since a border crossing to Cambodia opened a few years ago. Ha Tien was a nice relief after the not so beautiful towns of the Mekong. It has a French essence that was not just a remnant of the buildings and street design. Being located on an inlet also helps. At Ha Tien’s Oasis bar I meet Andy (English expat) and Jacko (Aussie expat) who convince me to head to Phu Quoc Island for a day or two, they also provide some hot tips on where to stay and what to do.

The next day I load the bike on the 8:20am ferry and settle in for the 2.5 hour boat trip. I spend two days on Phu Quoc staying in a beach side villa. It’s a beautiful island and despite another attempted S.W.F.S, a nice way to spend two days. On the Island I meet Mike, a 28yo local who owns and runs a restaurant/bar. He explains how he affords to run the place - Russian funding – this seems common in Vietnam. Mike provides some more recommendations on island highlights so I check them out, including a hidden pagoda on a hilltop that was amazing. Mike also recommends heading to the north of the island as its deserted. I do this and then have to race poor Suzi over half-built and gravel roads to make the ferry. She makes me pay for this the next day, when I head for the border and Cambodia.

Unfortunately I was disappointed with the Mekong. I try not to have expectations when I travel, but I did have a preconception that this place would offer unspoiled natural beauty. I have envisioned riding along roads skirted by rice fields and rivers. Most of the riding was thought sprawling shanty towns and markets. Pity.

Photos: Vietnam - Mekong

wingnut — Fri, 22 Jun 2012 23:03:00 GMT

5 Days in HCMC

wingnut — Mon, 18 Jun 2012 18:24:00 GMT

Arrived in HCMC/Siagon on Wednesday 16 June and took a hectic taxi ride to the centre of town (about $8 for a 40min trip – its not far, but traffic is slow, more of this later!).

Checked into the Lofi Inn, just west of the city centre and right around the corner from Bui Vien (main backpacker strip). The staff at Lofi were awesome and eager to practice their english and to teach Vietnamese. I met Ed from Melbourne in my dorm and we headed out for some dinner and drinks along Bui Vien. Siagon Green Beers for 1000VND (50c). Nice.

The following morning I woke to find a new guy in the dorm, Johnny from Sydney. We get chatting and decide to go for a walk to get orientated and find some breakfast (some food is provided at Lofi, but it’s very basic). We find the ABC bakery and smash some good baked goods for cheap. We spend the rest of the day walking the whole of the town centre and take in; Ben Thanh Markets, Dong Khoi (Main Street), Saigon River, Opera House, Post Office, Notre dame Church, Independence Palace (where we get some coconut juice) and then have dinner at a very authentic road side Vietnamese place where we are sheltered from the incessant bombardment of hawkers sitting behind other victims is the trick. After we headed to Bui Vien and the place with 1000VND beers (now known as 333, its like 399 on William St, but way more classy ;). Johnny and I decide to do the Cu Chi tunnels tomorrow.

It’s Friday when we head off to the Cu Chi tunnels. A minibus picks us up from outside the hostel and we meander though the city to pick up some more tourist. There are about 16 on the tour, including some Canadians, English, Irish and us two aussies. Cu Chi is a tunnel system dug by the Viet Kong (who are apparently NO. 1 in Vietnam according to our tour guide - Elle). It takes about 1.5hrs to drive the 40km to Cu Chi. The tour isn’t that great, but at only a few dollars you can’t complain too much. We crawl through 80m of tunnels, see some man traps, get to shoot M16’s, AK47’s etc (if you want. I didn’t), and watch a great propaganda film at the end. After the tour Johnny and I head to the War Remnants Museum. It’s a very confrontational experinace, but a must in HCMC. Drinks at 333 round out the day and I end up meeting Jack and Gemma. An English couple who are planning on buying a bike and riding north, we decide to meet up in the morning to get some motorbike stuff ready.

Jack, Gemma and I meet at Dahn’s (a street side motorbike repairers) where I see a Suzuki GN125 that is getting its carby fixed. As im looking for this bike and have only seen one other in town (which had been lowsided a few days before and suffered some moderate damage), I decide to leave a message for the owner with Dahn. Jack, Gemma and I head off to a place that Dahn recommended to them where we find some helmets. They are rubbish, but there is nothing else. OHS isn’t the in thing in Vietnam. I get a Vietnamese phone card for $5 which proves to be useful. I meet Johnny back at the hostel and he is leaving to get on a bus to head north. We say we’ll keep in touch. I go back to Dahn’s to see if there is any news on the GN – no luck yet. However, I meet Sam and Sean, two English guys who are trying to source some Honda Bonus’s (125cc) to ride north. Finding motorbikes instead of scooters or Honda Wins (100cc) proves difficult in HCMC! We get chatting and then a guy turns up on a bright yellow Minsk. Chris has ridden the Minsk from the north of Vietnam and has just arrived in HCMC. We’re all chatting when two young guys pass by on some Honda Wins. They see us and stop to talk bikes also. We head out for a couple of drinks when I hear from Gary, the owner of the GN125. He’s just ridden down from Ha Noi with his girlfriend on the back. He’s looking to sell the bike! I take it for a ride and its running great. We do the deal (after faffing around with how to actually do this as there is a 2,000,000 VND withdrawal limit (i later find ANZ lets you get 4mill)). I now own a bike. WOOHOO.

Sam and Sean also buy a Bonus each from Dahn, but they won’t be ready until the morning. Chris and I head out for a night ride around HCMC. Crazy times darting though traffic and filtering though crossings. We stop for a sneaky beer in god knows where. But there are no westerners around so we get stared at a bit. We head back to meet the other boys at 333 and decide to meet at Dahn’s the next morning to check out their bikes.

Its Sunday when I meet the boys at Dahn’s at 10am. The bikes aren’t ready so we have an Irish Breakfast from a Mexican place. We chill for a bit, drinking Café Sua Da (Iced Vietnamese Coffee with condensed milk – AMAZING!) at the Mexican restaurant opposites the bike stall. The bikes take ages so we walk to the helmet shop were Jack and Gemma got theirs and buy some for us. We get back to Dahn’s and the bikes still aren’t ready. A few drinks later and they are so we take Sean to a quiet car park to practice. He’s never ridden before. The afternoon is rainy so we spend a few hours at the bar. It clears up in the evening and we decide to head out for a ride to the sky tower. We get sidetracked on the way and end up at the City Hall (this is where the Top Gear boys headed off from). We stop and get the guard, who tell us not to park there, to take our photo J. The Sky tower gives a great view of HCMC at night. We see some floating bars on the river and decide to check them out. As we arrive the boats pull away – lucky because they are 2 hour karaoke boats!. We find a place selling beers and head on to the roof before riding back to 333 where I meet up with Jack, Gemma and a new addition, Thomas. The headlight on my bike stops working on the ride to Bui Vien. Shit! Jack, Gemma and Thomas have decided to ride to the Mekong. As im heading there myself we decide to join up and head off next day.

Jack, Gemma, Thomas and I meet up on Monday to check out a motorbike shop just north of the town centre. Jack hasn’t ridden much and has only just got his car license. Its an interesting ride though the busy traffic. The bike shop doesn’t open for another hour so we get some café sua da’s and sit on some kid chairs on the street side. When the shop opens I get some chain oil but that’s about it. I still need some basic tools, a chain lock and a rain jacket. I drop my bike off at Dahn’s and the guy says that the light will be fixed in an hour. I walk back to the hostel to see if Winnie (the owner) has had any luck finding some of the stuff i need. No luck, but one of her staff points me in the right direction and soon I have most of what I need. Jack, Gemma, Thomas and I meet up at 2:00 and are ready to negotiate our way though the traffic melee and out of HCMC.

Next up – Mekong Delta (My Tho, Cai Be, Can Tho, Ha Tien and Phuquoc Island)

Learning’s:

Everything is fake and, unfortunately, most people are trying to rip westerns off, charging 2-4 times the local price.
Be prepared for hawkers. They are non-stop. Saying no and then just ignoring them seems to do the trick.
Hide your shit while on the street. I saw a woman putting money into her purse while walking down the street. She got it snatched by the Saigon Cowboys (a guy on the back of a moto). Also met a Canadian girl who ran after these guys when her friends bag got snatched, she got dragged a bit and had a badly grazed leg .
Moto drivers whisper ‘marijuana’ as you walk off.
Guys on push bikes shaking a stick of metal rattles are either selling girls or drugs.
Bui Vien is the best place in the world for people watching, meeting strangers, getting cheap beer, and having an awesome time
The motorbike repairers on Bui Vien next to the Bull bar is the best in town.
You can only get one thing done a day. If you want to find a poncho, helmet and a screwdriver, it will take 3 days, unless you get a local to get it for you.