Sandstone Cliffs
I spent my final night in Kalbarri at Red Cliff Caravan Park. It is just far enough out of town to ensure a peaceful nights rest. It is the dividing point between the beaches to the north and magnificent cliffs to the south. I dreamed of surfing at the beach – instead I did laundry. Someday . . .
The entire character of the coastline changes right here. The sedimentary layers of the Kalbarri meet the Indian Ocean. The waves thunder against the cliffs slowly eroding them into a myriad of shapes and features – islands and arches, severely undercut shelves and ruggedly stepped shorelines, narrow beaches with violent undertows. Again I found myself captivated at the lookouts – this time watching the water and sand boil to the surface behind the breaking swell.
The sky was a gray overcast. The wind hummed as it passed through the lookout railing. It was cold. For the first time in nearly two months I wore my jumper (jacket) in mid-afternoon. Surely as I migrate south temperatures are becoming cooler.
Eventually I tore myself from the Kalbarri Ocean cliffs. I stopped for an hour or more at the Lynton Hiring Station – a station established in 1853 to supply convict labour to the Lyndon Lead Mine. Conditions were harsh and it closed shortly after it was opened. Today – although one of the most intact hiring stations in the state – it consists of just a few standing walls. Restoration efforts are ongoing – as funds are donated – to rebuild and restore some of the buildings.
In stark contrast to the simple and basic features provided at the Lynton Hiring Station is the opulent, perhaps aristocratic, Stanford Mansion less than a kilometer away. Set on a hill overlooking the dunes and the Indian Ocean. The home is a multi-room, two-story mansion. Below it stands the flour mill and stables. The home was falling into disrepair; however efforts, supported by donations, are underway to restore the home. Walls are being stabilized, wooden floors and rafters repaired, and even electrical conduits being tucked away into the walls. It will be a wonderful home again once the restoration is complete – perhaps a bed and breakfast or museum.
Again I’m not moving south as quickly as expected. It is now late afternoon and still 100 kilometres to my desired camp – except I don’t know how to get there. The Geraldton tourist brochure gives brief mention of Ellendale Pool as a place to camp. Although well off the beaten path it sounds like a wonderful place. If lucky I’ll find it – even luckier, there will be a place left to camp. From what I can gather it is near a large wind farm. Hopefully there will be a sign to one or the other.
I’m getting worried. The sun is setting and I still don’t know where I’m going. Finally . . . a small brown sign . . . Ellendale Pool . . . 27 kilometres . . . left. On the far hill I seed the lazy spin of a wind turbine. That is the direction I must head. The road winds through small communities and farmland. It crests the hill through the wind farm. Another sign. I continue on. Descending to a stream I notice a couple sandstone breaks glowing in the evening sun. I arrive about 5:30 with just enough time to set up camp before sunset. A campsite on the pool’s edge waited my arrival. The evening colours of the cliff reflect in the pool.
Perhaps I’ll stay two nights.
I awoke in the morning to dreams of sitting on the cliffs of Dinosaur National Monument watching peregrine falcons. I paused . . . That IS peregrine wailing I hear – a pair – I’m sure. I rolled over to look out the window. A variegated fairy wren greeted me. Indeed it was a peregrine calling from the cliff. I opened the car door and lay there savoring the new morning. It was just after 6:00. The morning sky was starting to show colour. Eventually the cliffs glowed with morning warmth and I crawled out from beneath my sleeping bag. It was a deceptive glow. The morning air carried a chill.
Most of the morning passed while I sat and took in the spectacle. About noon I left for town – to find groceries, internet, more butane for the stove, a car wash, new shoes and a watch. I returned to Ellendale Pool shortly before sunset.
Life is good sitting by the waters edge beneath sandstone cliffs.
