June–July 2008
Arrived at Bogota International Airport. It cost 17.000 ($9) to a popular area called La Candelaria (authorized taxi is very easy and very quick). Stayed at Fatima Hostel 40.000 ($20) for my own room, although you could do much better in a dorm. They have a nice fireplace in the common room, unlimited internet, and some nice music. They are also very friendly. Other options were Platypus or Sue, but they seemed a little depressing. Fairly plain-looking city; didn't feel particularly dangerous. 2 nights in Bogota.
Took morning bus from Bogota to San Gil (6 hours) Stayed at Macondo Hostal (Sean from Australia owns this, and is a wealth of information). My own room cost 20.000 ($10) per night, two nights here. Went white-water rafting in the morning on the Rio Fonce with four other people for 25.000 ($12) which was amazing. Went caving in the afternoon (25.000 ($12) which was amazing, and very dirty. Be prepared to get very muddy, to roll in the mud for about 30 feet, and to be completely submerged in the water at one point. Walked to the waterfalls the following day, and didn't see a single soul while I was there. Phenomenal. Swam at the base of the bottom 60m waterfall (there are two more higher up).
The following day, went to Barichara by bus (very nice colonial town); continued from there along the Camino Real to Guane village, which is a 1.5 hour walk. Very pleasant. Got back to the Macondo hostal just in time to grab my bag, and take a night bus to Santa Marta on the coast (12 hours, 70.000) Once in Santa Marta, went directly to Taganga by taxi, and stayed in a private room with my own bathroom at the Pelikan Hostel (since Casa de Felipe was full). Quite liked this little hostel (20.000/night). The Pelikan Hostel is closer than Casa de Felipe to the beach, and the owners are very nice. Hit the beach for the afternoon, and had a great meal down on the main strip. Spent the next day on the beach, relaxing and eating. Overnight at hostel. Took one of several minibuses to the market in Santa Marta, where I caught the bus to Tayrona Park (left my big bag at the hostel in Taganga). Hiked into Arrecifes (1 hour), and onto Cabo (1 hour). You can't swim at Arrecifes, so a lot of people continued onto Cabo. Overall, beautiful park and beautiful beaches, but the hammock area you sleep in (12.000) looks and feels like a miniature city. And the overpriced restaurant is right beside the hammock area. Was not overly impressed. Stayed one night, and hiked and swam the next day until 3pm. Hiked out, and returned to Taganga for the evening.
From Taganga, went into Santa Marta to catch the bus to Cartagena (via Barranquilla) (4 hours). Stayed in my own room at Hotel Familiar in Getsemani, which was actually quite nice (16.000). It's just down the street from the popular Casa Viena, which had no private rooms. Walked 15 minutes into the old walled city. Quite liked Cartagena, but didn't like the toots who are constantly trying to sell you stuff. Left the next morning on a tour of the Rosario Islands (snorkelled), and Playa Blanca (swam and ate) (50.000). Very nice day. Overnight Cartagena.
The next morning I headed on a tour to Volcan de lodo del Totumo (mud volcano) (30.000), which was amazing. Took the overnight bus to Medellin at 9pm (60.000), arriving next morning at 10:30am. Stayed at The Black Sheep hostel (owned by Kelvin from New Zealand). Explored the city for the day; lots of brown buildings on rolling hills; not too many touristy spots. Had dinner in the Zona Rosa, which is close to the hostel. Spend the next day exploring more of Medellin; took the cable car up and back; walked around the University area and the Botanical Gardens (not many flowers). Left next morning for Pereira (road under construction, so what should have been 4 hours turned into 6 hours). Onto the Finca Villa Martha (65.000 including 3 meals and unlimited coffee) by microbus in the Zona Cafetera. Amazing time, particularly since there was a vacationing family, and we had multiple aguardientes in the jacuzzi, and a great dinner at 9pm! Spent next morning and early afternoon walking around the Finca, and swimming in the pool. Also saw the process of coffee being made by the man who owned the Finca.
Headed to Salento around 3pm, and managed to get a bed at The Plantation House (holiday weekend with a music festival) (16.000 for a shared room with one other person). Owned by Tim (UK), who is incredibly informed. Next morning went for a Jeep ride to the Valle de Cocora. Very muddy but beautiful countryside. Toured Tim's coffee farm which he had recently purchased (4.000) Caught minibus into Armenia (one hour), and onto Bogota by night bus at 9pm (8 hours, which turned out to be actually 5.5 hours and left me in the bus terminal at 2:30am). Left Bogota for Mexico City (one night, Hotel Reforma Avenue), and back to Vancouver.
Didn't feel at all dangerous. It is a beautiful and very friendly country. Only one bus got pulled over for about 5 minutes the whole time, although there are plenty of army, etc on the highways. Not a lot of tourists along the way, other than who you see at the hostels. And quite often they are on a very similar route. The hostels that fravellers stay at are often owned by foreigners, who are really handy with information on buses, tours, etc.)