Pura Vida

Photos: Butterfly Garden

viajerofrye — Thu, 2 Dec 2010 14:00:00 GMT

No explanation needed - it was cool!

When I’m Gone

viajerofrye — Thu, 2 Dec 2010 13:33:00 GMT

Though I have not been as diligent as promised with keeping a blog, especially while at Villas, this was a great experience. As I near the end of my trip and prepare for my return to the states, I want to say thanks for reading along, following my adventures and making this a worthwhile venture. Pura vida!

Photos: Transported

viajerofrye — Wed, 1 Dec 2010 13:36:00 GMT

Transported

viajerofrye — Wed, 1 Dec 2010 13:31:00 GMT

You know that weird feeling you get when you’re in a movie theater, like the outside world doesn’t exist beyond the screen in front of you? When the movie is over you walk back into the mall and need a minute to realize when and where you are? It can be a real mind trip, especially when you’re in a foreign country.

On account of a rainy day, my plans for outdoor activities in San Jose were canceled. So, my friend Elizabeth and I hopped on a bus to MultiPlaza Escazu to check out the mall and go see a movie. Immediately after entering the mall I felt like I had just been transported back to the states, and it brought an overwhelming sentiment of home sickness. Except for the Latin music over the radio, this could have been any mall in any state in the US. Actually, it could have been any high end mall in the US. Three floors with beautiful white tile and Christmas decorations to set the holiday mood. Super fancy stores epitomized by the jewelry section with Cartier and Tiffany’s. Walking around the mall it was hard to remember that we were in Costa Rica, especially when we passed the food court which had McDonald’s, Burger King, Quiznos, KFC, Papa John’s, TCBY and Haagan Daz.

But get this - the movie ticket and a large popcorn each cost 1,300 colones, making my tab a grand $5.20 for my movie going experience. We watched our movie, which was in English with Spanish subtitles. It was strange to think that for so many people, their movies are either dubbed or have subtitles that you have to read just to follow along. We American’s are really quite spoiled, though I have to admit that after being in the jungle with dangerous creatures, having cuts and scabs finally progressing into scars from bug bites and unexplained rashes, a mall was a nice change of pace.

Photos: Las Juntas

viajerofrye — Mon, 29 Nov 2010 06:41:00 GMT

The Mind

viajerofrye — Mon, 29 Nov 2010 05:38:00 GMT

The mind is an incredible thing! Yesterday I talked about how amazing it was to find places I had been and knowing my way around. Today was no different, and reflecting on the power of the mind left me absolutely dumbfounded. In 2002 I was here in Las Juntas for probably 12 days. We were busy doing some community service projects and taking day trips, but this was our base. In the grand scheme of things, 12 days that occurred roughly 3000 days ago is a flicker in time. Nevertheless, I had this intuition about where everything was, like I had just been here yesterday. The school where we painted, the place we stayed, a spot we saw children playing in the river… it was all right there, and I arrived to each destination without trouble and no need to ask. I don’t know, it was just so cool that I thought I’d share.

Full Circle

viajerofrye — Sun, 28 Nov 2010 05:32:00 GMT

One of the main justifications for this trip and its timing was that I may never have the chance to do something like this again (though meeting tons of travelers along the way – I’m not sure I believe that anymore). Either way, I feel that this is likely my last trip to Costa Rica. Why?! Did I not enjoy my time here? Actually, my last three months have been incredible, matching or surpassing my previous two life-changing experiences here. But that’s just it. It’s tired. This is my third trip to the rich coast and I feel that if I am going to travel again it’s going to be another country so I can broaden my cultural horizons. That said, there was something I had to do before I made my way back to the states this time. I wanted to complete the circle and visit the place it all started back in 2002.

When I was an undergraduate student at Muhlenberg College, I took a 19 day trip to Costa Rica with Professors Richard Niesenbaum and Tammy Lewis. Although the end of our trip brought us to tourist attractions like the Arenal Volcano and Monteverde, we spent most of our time in the town of Las Juntas de Abangares. If you didn’t know, that was the trip that helped to shape the next eight years of my life. Before our departure for the states, Dr. Niesenbaum asked if I would be interested in working in his laboratory group back at Muhlenberg. Before I knew it I was conducting research for the first time, and intended to undertake my own project for a senior thesis. On to graduate school to learn more about plant-insect interactions,… Master of Science…, Doctor of Philosophy… and here I am!

So, after packing up from Montezuma and saying goodbye to my friends Katrina and Dalton, I headed back across the Nicoya peninsula via bus, across the Nicoya bay via ferry, and headed northwest to Abangares. I asked the driver to tell me when we arrived in Las Juntas (remember the Mastatal trip?), but I didn’t even need him to tell me. As we pulled in I recognized the town square, Los Mangos restaurant and the church. What a comforting and exciting feeling to know I’ve been here before. After finding a place to stay and taking a much needed shower, I made my way into town. I couldn’t believe how much I remembered! I knew exactly where I was from the moment I saw the Miner’s monument. I found the Chinese restaurant that made for a memorable night, the soccer field and the bridge across the river, and of course Los Mangos. Truth is, I was meant to be here this day. In the town square was some kind of festival, which featured a guy singing cover songs of merengue, cumbia and romantica, with two backup girl dancers. Children were running around, dancing and having a great time – and parents were doing the same (except the running around part). Without a doubt I was the only gringo in the whole crowd (likely the whole town), but no one seemed to care beyond the double glance to make sure they saw what they thought. Tomorrow I have big plans to walk around all day, trying to find where we stayed all those years ago and to take new pictures of old memories. In the afternoon I will visit with Carlos and Elliette, the couple that run Mina Tours and organize trips for Muhlenberg College. But for now, looking at my travel alarm clock that I bought for my first trip to Costa Rica and is here in Las Juntas again, I realize that it is time for me to rest comfortably under this rotating fan and catch some shuteye.

Photos: Montezuma

viajerofrye — Sat, 27 Nov 2010 05:42:00 GMT

Thanks

viajerofrye — Thu, 25 Nov 2010 05:27:00 GMT

I knew when I planned this trip that being away from family and tradition on Thanksgiving would not be easy. Like Halloween, it’s one of my favorites, but for all different reasons. A chill in the air, a chance of snow, everyone helping in the kitchen, watching football, and pigging out, thus inducing the all too familiar food coma before dessert. For the next few days you have delicious leftovers, though Friday you’re out shopping for good deals and have to wait for dinner to heat up the turkey. And to round out the tradition, Saturday is a day for log splitting. I believe this tradition dates back to when CJ was away at college and since it is a Team Frye project (including mom) we needed to wait for a time when all the boys were present (though now we are fortunate to have added Jay and Mario to the crew).

Anyway, that’s a little more tradition than you were probably hoping to read about. As you might imagine, being at Playa Montezuma didn’t quite fulfill that family legacy. But, by no means was Thanksgiving a disappointment because my friends; my Costa Rican family. A group of people from Robert’s farm decided that we would meet up for the holiday, which coincided with Meghan’s birthday. The seven of us were able to all stay at the same hostel which had a huge kitchen, beautiful rooms and balconies, and was right on the beach! For the most part, we were the only ones there since the place is relatively new and advertising is pretty poor.

During the day a few of us went to the beach to swim in the unguarded waters that presented 12’ (or more?) waves. It. Was. Awesome! I wasn’t brave enough to ride those bad boys, but getting tossed around was quite a bit of fun! In the early afternoon we went back down to the beach to look for crabs as bait for fishing with hand-made fishing devices. We had each planned a meal to prepare for the big feast, but nobody’s plate stood out as a main dish. Well, we got some crustaceans but no fish (which was probably for the best). When the boys arrived home empty handed from fishing, we all started cooking. Funny how a big kitchen is immediately reduced in size when there are seven people preparing their own dish. But within a few hours we were sitting down at the large table with a plate full of the most delicious food. The evening was completed by a trip to Chico’s Bar, the only nightlife in town. Luck had it that Thursday night is Reggae Night, and the white folk did our best to keep up with the dreadlocked Rastas on the dance floor. And then, just to end the night properly, when we got back from a night of dancing we did what comes naturally and raided the refrigerator. Mmmm cold stuffing!

Imitation

viajerofrye — Wed, 24 Nov 2010 05:24:00 GMT

At 6 am I awoke in Montezuma and stepped out onto the second floor deck of Hotel Lucy. What I saw gave me such pause that I literally had to sit down. The sun had just risen over the Pacific Ocean, was shining brightly through sparse clouds and sunlight was dancing on the water. A sea of tiny twinkling lights appeared on the ocean surface that caught my complete attention. It was mesmerizing. It reminded me of the lights on Broadway, or the boardwalk at night; flashing to grab the attention of a passerby. Try as we might, we fail to capture or imitate nature’s beauty.

Photos: Villas Mastatal 2

viajerofrye — Mon, 22 Nov 2010 12:25:00 GMT

Photos: Villas Mastatal

viajerofrye — Mon, 22 Nov 2010 11:53:00 GMT

Villas Farewell

viajerofrye — Sun, 21 Nov 2010 11:19:00 GMT

This quiet little town tucked away in the hills of Mastatal has limited communication and technology. What it lacks in technology is makes up for in something we often strive for – quality. Here in Mastatal there exists a life that is so perfectly simple and satisfying that makes me so grateful for this experience. After a few hours of work each day we might make a trek into town, down to the waterfalls for swimming, head off hiking somewhere, or just lounge around with a good book waiting for the guy from La Iguana Farm to bring us delicious home-made chocolate and brownies. The dormitory is adorned with hammocks and swings to sit and watch the passing clouds and birds in the trees below. Rain that falls in the early afternoon inspires conversation, and brings out artisan skills in the group. After dinner we may play some cards or listen and learn from fellow volunteers that hail from all over the world. While these pictures will not do justice to this amazing place, I hope you enjoy them just the same as a record of my time at Villas Mastatal.

Tormenta

viajerofrye — Fri, 5 Nov 2010 11:18:00 GMT

Today is the fifth day in November, and already there has been more rain recorded for the month than in the last 20 years! Every day since my arrival in Mastatal has been rain – for four straight days! And we’re not just talking a light sprinkle, it sounds like a waterfall on the tin roofs above. From Mastatal to other nearby cities there is no passage – roads are closed, no clean drinking water and no electricity in both Parrita and Puriscal. We are fortunate to have both here, but with six volunteers there is some fear that we might run out of food.

To avoid the big cities Javier and Raquel decide that a trip to Zapaton is necessary - and Javier will take the dirt-bike. He can’t, and shouldn’t, make the trip alone as someone needs to simultaneously hold a sack of food and wear and backpack full of goods. Having seen the roads between Santa Rosa and here during my arrival not three days ago, I fear what the trip to Zapaton might be like and I am not at all interested. Neither is anyone else. Hamish has the idea to draw straws. Thinking I’ll have the best odds of drawing a long straw I draw first. I was right. But second to draw is another one of the guys, and when he draws the short straw he asserts that he is NOT going on the dangerous mission and throws his straw down. Well, so much for the straw idea. Suddenly it seems that the whole group is disappearing from the table – the table where we all eat and if we don’t get food today we might not be eating in the days to come. Of all the quotes I could think of, one from Stephen King’s It comes to mind: sometimes you need to know when to make a stand. I tell Javier I’ll go.

The attire to wear, I’m told, is clothes you don’t mind getting wet or dirty. Well, that’s just about all of them. But I want to stay warm and I want to be light. Being a true worst-case-scenario thinker, I also grab my wallet and give it to Elizabeth, with special instructions about phone cards and who to call if I don’t come back. I was nervous, and getting ready for this mission made me feel like a warrior heading off to battle.

The reality of the situation was much better than I could have imaged, and while there were some places where the road had collapsed below, or where landslides from above had slightly impeded the road, our passage to Zapaton was easy (and wet and dirty). We waited in line with others who were stocking up, and finally filled our bags and headed back to the house. About a quarter of the way the bike began to sputter, and then it stopped completely. “Mierda!” I had an intuition about gas when we were at the store, but didn’t say anything. I did what I’m learning is the best response to these situations. I laughed. No fear, no worry, just laughed. Fortunately Javier has lots of friends along the way, and we stopped at one house for gas, walked a little further and got oil from another friend before we were back on our way. Of course the rain had picked up again and our ride home was rather uncomfortable with pelting drops in our faces that burned as they hit. The road seemed to have more rivers and ruts on our return, but we made it back just fine, and now have plenty of food in the event that travel to and from Mastatal remains limited. Another day, another adventure!

Paradise

viajerofrye — Wed, 3 Nov 2010 11:17:00 GMT

Paradise is no longer elusive – I found it! When planning began back in the states, I imagined this trip to have only one phase. But as we know things rarely go according to plan. The first phase of my trip was that of acclimation: getting around on my own in a foreign country I know very little about, and working to make requests, purchases and understand what was happening around me in Spanish. The second phase was characterized by learning about organic farming and searching for some mental clarity; tackling the bigger questions in my life. And now, well, now I’ve got it all. I am living with a Spanish speaking family in the hills of Costa Rica. Town, from what I know of it, has two sodas and a bar, and is close enough to walk. Although it has been raining since my arrival I can sense the natural beauty and lack of development around me. There is a national park, waterfall, and river for swimming all within my reach. Volunteers stay in a beautifully constructed longhouse with one side completely open to the world, bunk beds with mosquito nets, and outdoor showers; the whole setup a 30 second walk from the main house. There is a real compost toilet and rain barrels to collect roof water. Upon arrival there were three volunteers from France, one from Italy, two from England, and two others from the states. Although volunteers help with preparation, all meals are typical Costa Rican dishes and this morning I learned how to make empanadas and tortillas from scratch! Although the rain has impeded outdoor activities, today we all worked together to build garbage cans for the dormitories: taking turns sawing, sanding and hammering. Pura vida!

Travel Day. Crap.

viajerofrye — Tue, 2 Nov 2010 11:15:00 GMT

I knew it wasn’t going to be easy. Travel days during this journey rarely are, and often test not only my soul, but also the will and desire to remain in Costa Rica. Today was no exception. At 11:30 am, after waiting all morning for the rain of this tormenta (storm) to let up, I resolved to packing everything in my large suitcase, throwing my poncho over everything and hoofing it in boots to the nearby bus stop. By 11:45 am I was already soaking wet, but thankfully my bag was dry.

I arrived in Quepos and spent the next 45 minutes trying to buy the correct ticket to Puriscal. Neither ticket lady knew which bus I was talking about - though two friends had made the same journey in the weeks before. After making phone calls, buying a ticket that would take me well out of my way, and lots of fretting, I was just about ready to give up hope, when a bus marked “Quepos, San Jose Colectivo: Quepos X Puriscal” pulled up. I returned my way more expensive ticket and was on my way!

But the fun was just starting. The road between Quepos and Parrita was a disaster from all the rain. From my window I could see cars stuck on the side of the road, houses with ankle-deep water, and the grand prize of two stretches of road that were completely submerged. As I would discover throughout the trip, our chofer had a touch of bold and a dazzle of crazy, and plowed right through areas that had cars backed up for miles. After Parrita we left the main highway for a gravel road. Great. So many worst case scenarios filled my head as we pressed on, and with good reason. This road up and down mountains had downed trees that barely permitted our passage, a few landslides from above that made narrow the path we could cross, deep ruts of mud, one of which we were stuck in and had to reverse down the hill before trying again. Downed trees brought down wires and for most of the ride my hands clenched the seat in front of me. Where the road was wide enough, a truck came barreling in our direction and actually scraped up against my side of the bus. Ugh!

The driver knew I had to stop in Santa Rosa, and said he would let me know when we arrived. When we passed a sign that said “ßMastatal,” I knew there was a problem. A woman and child that boarded at the stop sat across the aisle from me and I asked if we were close to Santa Rosa. Yup, we had passed it alright – so I hurried to the front of the bus and asked the driver. The solution was to let me off at the next stop with a promise that another bus would be coming in that direction to pick me up. Yea, right. I hoofed it back up hill (of course it was up hill) to the stop where another guy from my bus had gotten off and was waiting. Gracias a dios for Tony – the Tico at the bus stop marked only by a covered bench. No phone, no town nearby, nothing!

Tony and I had a great conversation about soccer, the states, biology and his work at a banana plantation in Parrita. When the bus was 45 minutes late we thought about walking in the direction of Mastatal. Just then a man came down the road with shovels in his hand saying that the road was closed and there would be no busses. Oh no. So, Tony, myself and my 75 pound bag started walking. Gracias a dios otra vez! A truck came up behind us and gave us a ride as far as their house. Tony and I sat in the back with 8 crates of glass bottles as the rain continued to beat in our faces and the afternoon light was starting to slip into darkness. As we arrived at their house, another truck pulled up behind us and again Tony managed to get us on board, this time the back full of concrete and other building materials.

Our luck ran out soon after that, when the taxi would not pass an area where the road was almost completely gone – collapsed into the ravine below. We unloaded our stuff and started on foot once again. To a Tico, it was not a long stretch from here to Mastatal, but for me, in the dark with my 75 pound bag, wet, tired, scared of snakes and other deadly creatures in the road… it wasn’t close enough. I must have asked Tony 5 times if we were almost there and he kept assuring me that we were. My glasses wet and foggy, I couldn’t see the road ahead and in those moments, when Tony kept asking questions and engaging me in conversation I was so thankful for his company. I let him know that without him, it would be difficult to maintain faith in this journey. Although he had another 20 minute walk after Mastatal, he was kind enough to let me stop and give my back a rest from the heavy pack.

When we came upon a streetlight, Tony said, “gracias a dios! Una luz. Mira, otro!!!” Like my first night in Esperanza, this was the moment of immense inner joy. I lugged my suitcase another 100 meters to a small soda where Tony knew the owners, and they generously called the farm where I am staying. I bought myself and Tony a soda, parched from the long day of traveling and the walk mostly up hill, and waited patiently, relieved under a covered roof. After a short ride, again uphill, which would have definitely broken my faith, we arrived at the farm. My good friend Elizabeth was the first face I saw, along with 8 other volunteers. I think I was just as relieved to talk to my mom tonight as she was me. After a delicious traditional Costa Rican meal, complete with homemade chili (a meal topper that will burn your mouth something fierce), I made my way down here to the dormitory. In moments I will be fast asleep; happy under this warm blanket…

Photos: Manuel Antonio

viajerofrye — Mon, 1 Nov 2010 11:21:00 GMT

Season of Change

viajerofrye — Sun, 31 Oct 2010 11:14:00 GMT

Halloween and the season of change make for my favorite time of year. A landscape full of oranges and reds, pumpkins for carving, apples for picking, cooler days and the smell of wood-burning stoves. And Halloween… whoa! I mean, scary movies on the tele, people in costumes, parties, trick or treating and candy… the BEST!

Alas, here I am in Costa Rica where there may be some costumes for the American holiday, but certainly no changing leaves or a television to watch scary movies. And so we improvise! My Halloween in Manuel Antonio was different, no doubt, but geez was it awesome. Mike and I decided to rent a surfboard for the day ($10 total from 9am to 5pm), and took turns braving the waves. Having surfed before, Mike was a pretty good instructor and I actually got to standing on that board a couple of times! We spent a long day on the beach surfing, soaking up sun and playing in the sand. In OCTOBER!

Late afternoon we went back to our hostel, cleaned up a bit and headed back down to town. At the grocery store we bought some snacks and made our way to the beach to enjoy a sunset over the pacific. Pinks, blues and oranges filled the sky as the sun slowly dipped into the ocean. Conversation was light as we all marveled at this spectacular event that happens daily, yet still inspires so much wonder and emotion.

After a quick dinner, stop number four at the grocery in one day (this time for candy), we headed back to the hostel. In the room I share with Gabby and Meghan (and Coral for one night), we all piled in and watched “Identity,” a psychological thriller, on my computer. This was bought, along with 7 other movies on a single DVD for the low-low price of $3. Certainly not the Halloween of years gone by, but definitely one to remember.

Weekly Planner

viajerofrye — Fri, 29 Oct 2010 11:13:00 GMT

Next time, if there is a next time, I’m traveling lighter. Even with the box of stuff I sent home I still have way too many things, and hardly use any of them. Anyway, during the grand event of packing this evening I stumbled upon my poor, neglected weekly planner. The little notebook purchased at the 5 & 10 in Newark, DE for less than $2 has certainly served its purpose. Looking back over the months before September, each day is filled with notes, deadlines, tasks, meetings and responsibilities; different colors, some things highlighted, other things scribbled or etched. Since September 7^th … nothing but blank pages, save for notes about birthdays and anniversaries. I know not everyone will have the opportunity to live this way – to take a break from reality and face life one day at a time – but you should try. And I will too, for I still have a lot to learn from those around me who truly seem free. Free to hop on a bus toward some unknown destination with little plan and no confirmed reservations. On their backs they carry all they need; they are thrifty and adventurous. And having spent near a month with my friends, I am going to miss them.

Traveling Man

viajerofrye — Thu, 28 Oct 2010 07:49:00 GMT

Hi-ya folks! No, I didn't forget about you over the last three weeks, and (thankfully) the snake meal was not the end of me. After a short trip to Quepos and Manuel Antonio with friends from Roberts Farm, I went to Villas Mastatal - the most perfect place on earth to learn about organic farming from a Costa Rican family. While at Villas there was little need or use for technology, and so all I have to present are stories that were written sporadically during my time there and some photos. In the next 12 days I intend to do some more traveling: Montezuma, Samara, Barra Honda National Park, Las Juntas de Abangares (where I visited with Muhlenberg College), San Jose and perhaps Puerto Viejo de Sarapaqui to see a friend at La Selva Biological Station. Then... December 4th I fly back to the states. For now, Pura Vida!!

Photos: Snake, it's what's for dinner!

viajerofrye — Wed, 27 Oct 2010 11:21:00 GMT

For the second day in a row, Emily spotted a Fur-de-lance pit viper right off the front porch in a garden where she was working. The decision was made to kill the snake, with the plan to use as much of it as possible. We are drying the skin and head for a demonstration, learned a lot about snake biology by dissecting it, and plan to eat the meat, liver, stomach and eggs.

Deep Thoughts (readers proceed with caution)

viajerofrye — Tue, 26 Oct 2010 15:19:00 GMT

The desired effect of working alone in the garden is to think. Not about day to day life with questions like what am I doing next? how can I do this more efficiently? where am I going this weekend? No - thinking in the garden is about digging deep and asking the bigger questions: what do I really want to do with my life? what type of work/lifestyle will really make me happy? what do I want to achieve? where do I want to be in ten years (a DWT question)? Since I’ve been asking big questions about life, love and happiness, I’ve discovered it’s not easy mental work! But alas, I’m not the first person to have taken on such a monumental task, and my predecessors provide guidance through quotes, lyrics and by example. Punk band or not, Goldfinger has been on my mind lately:

“Thinking life and living life are two very different things, the first one being harder than the last.”

When I was in college I spent a lot of time thinking about and discussing life. I’d write in my journal frequently to reflect on my actions and thoughts, and had memorable discussions with good friends on rooftops, in coffee shops and in rose gardens. Back then I thought Goldfinger’s quote was backwards. At 20 years old I already had so much figured out, clearly it was easier to think about life than to actually live it. But time has marched on and life has thrown some interesting obstacles my way. Now, in the face of adversity I’ve come to realize that tackling life head-on and living it day to day is, in fact, much ‘easier’ than having some grand plan. Maybe Goldfinger was right afterall.

And so, while swinging a pick under hot, sunny skies in Costa Rica I’ve been wondering “am I living it right” (John Mayer)? Should I plan ahead and devise a grand scheme for what I want to do and who I will be; or do I live ‘one day at a time,’ making myself and those around me happy, working hard and taking opportunities as they present themselves? Do I even need to make a conscious decision about all this? Do normal people have time to think about how to live life, or is that only for idealistic students that have finally graduated from a life of education? Again I’m not alone, and this Robert Pirsig quote given to me by someone special has also been on my mind:

“…when you’re no longer thinking ahead, each footstep isn’t just a means to an end but a unique event in itself. This leaf has jagged edges. This rock looks loose… These are things you should notice anyway. To live only for some future goal is shallow. It’s the sides of the mountain which sustain life, not the top.”

During my last month here in Costa Rica I’ll be staying at one last farm, and maybe doing some traveling. While the solution to this conundrum may not present itself before my time in paradise is up, perhaps all I need to think about is… pura vida!

Trial by Fire

viajerofrye — Mon, 25 Oct 2010 15:17:00 GMT

I really dislike itchy rashes. Poison ivy… vile stuff. I get it every year and there is just nothing pleasant about it. I end up scratching until my skin is raw and bleeding, then add some ethyl alcohol to dry it out and burn the stuff away. Effective, yet somewhat painful. Here on the farm we have mango and cashew trees – both of which are in the same plant family as poison ivy and poison sumac (Anacardiaceae for your edification), which both have the potential to give me the itches. But that has nothing to do with the rash that appeared on the tops of my feet, the backs of my knees, and my hips – because I wear pants and boots, and haven’t even looked sideways at those plants.

When the internet suggested that my tiny, itchy bumps could be scabies, I entertained the idea with great concern. My thought process went something like, “hmm, the scratch/alcohol remedy didn’t work, what else do we have? I know they use hot pepper oils to kill mites on plants, maybe that would work for my terrible itches too!” Well, I got a little carried away. Instead of rubbing hot pepper on only a small part of skin to test the experimental treatment, I was so uncomfortable that I went ahead and smothered both feet, leaving the capsaicin oils to soak in overnight. BAAAD IDEA! I woke up this morning with the sensation that my feet were literally on fire. Sensitive to the touch, puffy, red and full of intense discomfort, I put some cooling powder in my socks and reluctantly headed out to the farm. With the sun beating down on my black boots, I was in complete agony by the end of my first hour of work. I limped inside, took off my boots and attempted triage.

Again consulting the internet for ways to remove the oils I washed with soap, then shampoo, then a cut lemon. To treat the burning sensation I tried flour, Neosporin, foot powder, hydrocortisone cream, and wet socks. Twice I attempted to go back to work, but overwhelming pain found me quickly scurrying back inside to get my boots off. I told Robert about my great stupidity – and he compassionately found some seed hulling and other jobs to do shoeless and indoors. He recommended an oatmeal compress and gave me some healing creams. Throughout the day I dipped my feet in ice water, used palm oil and skin lotion. Nearly 24 hours after my initial bright idea, my feet no longer itch, and the burning has just about stopped! Please kids, don’t try this at home!

Photos: Monkeys! (and more)

viajerofrye — Sat, 23 Oct 2010 15:39:00 GMT

Photos: And so goes another week...

viajerofrye — Sat, 23 Oct 2010 01:10:00 GMT

Photos: New Project

viajerofrye — Fri, 22 Oct 2010 00:40:00 GMT

This week I worked on converting an old hay field into new planting beds. The field was first mowed by Robert, I raked, moved and raked again. In the spirit of using everything, the clippings were used for mulch to keep plants moist in the upcoming dry season. Emily, Katrina and Dalton installed a bed on Wednesday, I added another Thursday and started the third row with three beds today.

Fiesta

viajerofrye — Thu, 21 Oct 2010 00:13:00 GMT

What a sight! The remaining eight WWOOFers and Lady (the small headed / large bodied dog) all piled into the Toyota today for a run into town. The mission was simple – buy some beverages for a small fiesta to help see friends off to their next destination. In town, the car full of gringos caught some glances, but even more so when we arrived at the liquor store and unloaded three boxes of old beer bottles. Having sat under the porch since we arrived in Cuidad Colón, it was a good idea to bring them back and not have to pay the deposit on our new purchases. Naturally the girls were subject to some whistling by men on the corner, but otherwise it was a pretty successful mission.

Sitting shotgun on the ride home, I had a box on my lap that once contained dusty old beer bottles and was stored outside the house for several weeks. I looked down to see a three inch long critter climbing up the side of the box and the internal voice said “COOL! I wonder what kind of bug this is!?” thinking it might be the Harlequin bug I’ve been anxious to see. But before I could finish that thought I realized the crawling creature was none other than a scorpion. Dammit. In a moment of panic, I threw the box straight out the window from our moving car… Of course, rather than hold onto the box and go for a ride, my pincer- and stinger-equipped friend decided to let go and fall somewhere in the car! Panic spread, screams shouted, Mike pulled over and we search the car. The ride home was a bit more exciting after that - especially since we never did find the scorpion…

Photos: Friends at Robert's Farm

viajerofrye — Mon, 18 Oct 2010 08:04:00 GMT

Good people and great friends here at Robert's Farm. I am sad to see people leave...

Photos: Insects (and other creepy crawlies)!

viajerofrye — Mon, 18 Oct 2010 07:30:00 GMT

I haven't posted invertebrate pictures in a while, but often marvel at their beauty here at Robert's Farm. Here's some I've been able to capture on camera!

Nickname

viajerofrye — Sat, 16 Oct 2010 05:15:00 GMT

Today we did some shopping at the farmer’s market, bought some goodies at Palí, and completed the Saturday morning ritual with a deliciously refreshing smoothie, juice or shake at Orgánica. During our visit the previous week I thought I recognized music from one of my favorite Columbian artists on the radio, Carlos Vives. Not sure if it was a new or old album I did not have, I asked the owner for confirmation of the artist’s identity. This week, upon entering the store, I was greeted “hola Columbiano,” with an explanation of how I wouldn’t be able to convince her I wasn’t Columbian. After we finished our drinks and organic muffins, the owner bid us goodbye… “Adios chicos! Adios Columbiano!” I love nicknames!

Serendipity

viajerofrye — Fri, 15 Oct 2010 05:14:00 GMT

Last Saturday night Emily and I took a stroll to Rancho el Higuerón for some cold beer and culture. Serendipitously, a man that asked to borrow a chair from our table just happens to be a professor in California, a native of Cuidad Colón, AND interested in organic farming! Today he and his brother arrived to the farm for a tour and to share some ideas with Robert. The conversation was engaging, and highlighted a number of potential opportunities for all involved parties. Collaboration between Robert’s WWOOFers and our new friends that own farm property could mean development as a demonstration farm for folks in the area. With several contacts in and around Ciudad Colón, our friends could set WWOOFers up with local schools to help them start community gardens and re-teach what has been lost, as well as Costa Rican farmers who are looking for volunteers to help but are unaware of programs such as WWOOF. Our friend’s brother works for the Organization of American States to translate agricultural texts from French, Portuguese, and English into Spanish, and is also involved in local and regional sports committees. In one chance meeting, Robert is now closer to his goal of making a difference and taking responsibility for the land and people visible from his house.

Before leaving, our friends asked about our plans for the night, explaining how a famous Costa Rican band, Gaviota, would be playing at Rancho el Higuerón. Live music, Friday night, reserved table? As if no was an option! A small group attended later that evening, dancing to salsa, merengue, cumbia, pop and even a few reggaeton songs adapted by the group. Quite the incredibly serendipitous encounter…

Photos: Busy Day

viajerofrye — Thu, 14 Oct 2010 07:20:00 GMT

Photos: Una Aventura!

viajerofrye — Thu, 14 Oct 2010 06:58:00 GMT

Busy day

viajerofrye — Thu, 14 Oct 2010 05:13:00 GMT

According to the biodynamic calendar, which considers not only sun and moon cycles for planting but also the other heavily bodies, today was a “fruit day”. Based on previous long-term studies, planting on a fruit day will enhance fruit production, while planting root days enhance root growth, and so forth. To take advantage of the designation of this day, we were each given a project that will ultimately yield fruit. My project was pineapples!

Before planting, I added compost to a bed I had created the previous week. Using pineapple heads we gathered from the farmer’s market, I plucked leaves from the bottom so that an inch of bare stem was showing. While another pineapple bed on the farm has larger row-spacing, Robert wanted these plants closer together to see if it would provide support for the heavy winds that are present during the dry season. I briefly showed Katrina and Dalton the technique, and presto-change-o, a lovely patch of pineapple! I’ll admit that it was very satisfying work.

In the evening, after our hike down the dangerous cliff (yup, all the same day!), we went into town to meet up with some new friends from the University for Peace. Each Thursday a few people get together for an informal “drum session” and bring some musical instruments as well as pots, pans, bowls, tins and chopsticks. We jammed for a while, but hunger got the best of me and I walked over for some comida rapida (fast food); a nice plate of arroz con pollo with French fries and coleslaw. Followed by a piece of tres leches cake, my night was complete and a busy day over!

Una Aventura!

viajerofrye — Thu, 14 Oct 2010 05:12:00 GMT

After much anticipation, we finally made it down the dangerous cliff! Seven prepared for the journey as Robert looped the hand-made rope ladder around the base of a large jocote tree at the edge of his property. Emily was the first to traverse the steep hill side, relying almost entirely on the rope with little structure to provide hand or foot-holds. I watched as one by one my friends climbed down out of sight, and followed last with a machete in one hand, rope ladder in the other. The end of the rope didn’t quite reach the bottom of the cliff, explaining why on two occasions I heard excited gasps as the girls slid on loose soil and attempted to grab roots of the large tree.

At the base of the cliff was a narrow trail that we followed – hoping to find the river heard from above. The tranquility of the forest all around us, we stopped here and there to search for precious seeds that Gwen and Anaїs could use for their beautiful jewelry. On our path we saw a huge spider with a golden web, a bullet ant, and a tremendous walking stick that crawled up Gwen’s back and neck! As the path began to widen, we noticed ornamental plantings on either side of what was now starting to look like an old driveway up the hill. Continuing on, the smell of manure… chicken manure to be exact, became evident and it wasn’t long before we stumbled on to a chicken farm. With the sound of flowing water growing ever closer, the seven gringos marched through the chicken farm and headed towards the water – each eating an orange picked from a volunteer tree in the woods.

When we finally reached the river I was overcome with disappointment. Not for the lack of natural beauty in the vegetation surrounding the river, but because the river itself was completely polluted with visible trash, and also smelled like detergent. Hundreds of households drain dishwater into the streets each day, which quickly makes its way into the major rivers of the area. There was no visible life, and the river itself had a gray tint that broke my heart. Nevertheless, Mike and I did some exploring to see if the river joined the main road by Robert’s house, while the girls traveled back the way we had arrived. Being that Mike is the only other Y-chromosome at “Finca la Femme”, it was good times hopping from rock to rock as explorers. Having grown up near a river, Mike is quite skilled at hopping like my Tico friends at Finca Quijote.

Despite the polluted water, natural beauty could not escape us. Clay formations with incredible color patterns and lizards running across the surface of the water were contained within the stream bed surrounded by large trees. We followed the river and noticed the bank growing taller and taller around us. We found what appeared to be a natural spring from deep within a rock wall - a cavernous opening stretching deep into the thick rock. Likely more potable, we still did not risk contamination by drinking and moved forward. With sunset around 5 pm and pure darkness un-navigable and dangerous in unfamiliar territory, I grew slightly nervous that this river was not going to meet up with the main road. Panic was replaced by pure excitement and awe as we rounded a corner to see huge, perhaps 150 foot tall sheer rock cliffs adjacent to our river. At the same time, an ever-increasing noise alerted us to something we were not expecting to find on this simple journey – a huge waterfall cut into the side of the cliffs. Still polluted yet incredibly majestic, hundreds of gallons water fell into a large pool at the base. Wow!

But how to get back from this site was a new dilemma. Take the high road through dense vegetation on one side of the falls, or head down river to where we started? With gray skies above and darkness two hours away, I feared being washed down river in a rain event or being lost in the jungle. Whatever we planned to do, we had to do it soon, and so brave Mike suggested we head up the side of the falls. Up a small, 10’ vertical wall we climbed over wet rocks to a level area before choosing our path. Suddenly we heard a loud boom, and the fear of a rain event was surely now more likely. Or was it?! Following the first boom was an even louder crash, as the thousands of pounds of rocks that had dislodged from the side of the cliff smashed the ground near the base of the waterfall! Both with adrenaline pumping and me thinking about the possibility of an earthquake dropping us hundreds of feet from the top of the waterfall to the rocks below, I convinced Mike that perhaps today was not the best day to explore the cliff, and we made our way back down the river and up the way we adventurously traveled earlier in the day. Added to the collection of near misses, had Mike still been standing down below by the waterfall in the instant of rocks falling… Pura vida!!!

Photos: Universidad para la Paz

viajerofrye — Tue, 12 Oct 2010 05:28:00 GMT

Universidad para la Paz

viajerofrye — Tue, 12 Oct 2010 05:11:00 GMT

Charlie has been in Costa Rica for close to 30 years, living in and around Mora and having a number of interesting jobs. For a time, he worked as a guide at the University for Peace. Owned and run by the United Nations, the University hosts 150-200 students from all over the world for a one-year Master’s program, and is located right here in Cuidad Colón. Having maintained his connections with the University and being a well known person in the community, Charlie was able to give us a private, personalized tour of the grounds today. Our adventure began with a short climb to a lookout over the Central Valley. From my first glimpse, it was obvious why this spot is referred to as “Gracias a Dios,” with a view that stretched for miles in almost all directions. After taking in the sights and learning some physiography, we climbed down and headed for the Monumento al Desarme, al Trabajo y la Paz. Robert generously paid admission for himself, Charlie and the 12 WWOOFers, and Charlie explained the significance of the monuments, their arrangement and the inscriptions. Set in a circle with a large obelisk in the center, the outer portions of the stones contained artistic renderings of important quotations from the Costa Rican constitution. Inside were quotations from, and sculptures of important Costa Rican leaders that have made contributions towards achieving peace. The center, in addition to having a dedication plaque with the United Nations emblem, also features a moving quote by former president Oscar Arias Sanchez about the lack of a military presence in Costa Rica. The structure is topped by an international symbol for peace, a pair of hands releasing a white dove. A very powerful place.

“Feliz la madre Costarricense que sabe al parir que su hijo nunca sera soldado”

[Happy is the Costa Rican mother, who knows at giving birth that her son will never be a soldier]

Photos: Farm Grand Stand

viajerofrye — Mon, 11 Oct 2010 05:21:00 GMT

Farm Grand Stand

viajerofrye — Mon, 11 Oct 2010 05:10:00 GMT

As a career student that once upon a last year co-taught a college level course, I really appreciate novel techniques to communicate ideas. Let’s face it, the blah, blah, blah lecture approach often leads to bobbing head syndrome and little content retention. But after being on the farm grand stand, I’m not sure anyone will forget the lessons we learned about organic certification and transgenic crops!

With your character determined by the hat you choose, Mike and I were Oosda representatives. In the first skit, Oosda (USDA), the United States Department of Agriculture, visits Roberts’s farm to decide if he can obtain an organic certification for his crops. With witty jokes from young farm-boy Robert to his Ma about needing a pool for the “organic seal,” and not knowing that manure is fertilizer, Robert communicated this important observation: think for a moment about how agriculture first evolved. We observed what occurs in nature and did our best to imitate and enhance that process. Yet for some reason when we refer to agriculture today we call “conventional” farming those systems that use pesticides, making organic farming the alternative. Why should farms that do things naturally have to pay for a certification, and why should natural organic farming be considered the alternative and not the convention?

In the second skit two individuals from Mount Santos come to the farm. At first, Robert the farm-boy was very confused as to why representatives from the Church of Mount Santos (Montsanto Corporation) would be interested in the jeans that blew in to the farm during the windstorm. He hadn’t asked for the jeans, but when they landed here he assumed they were his and gave them to his brothers and sisters. Another great play on words, this skit articulated the concern about genes from transgenic plants making their way into farmers fields via pollen, and the legal battle that has followed. If genes blow in from Montsanto plants, should the local grower be forced to pay the corporation for use of their product? Should they be forced to cut down their crop if they do not pay?

Today, I learned how presenting controversial topics in an objective, entertaining manner is a great way to communicate important ideas. Far more constructive and educational than preaching, this method inspires people to seek information and act on their own. Bravo!

Photos: New Trades

viajerofrye — Mon, 11 Oct 2010 01:23:00 GMT