Scientist on the Loose

KILIMANJARO

tracy — Sat, 17 Oct 2009 02:08:00 GMT

Ok, so I just spent 30 minutes detailing my first day at Kili and the computer died erasing everything. I'll add the good stuff later, but for now here is a summary.

We took the Machame Route, also known as the "Whiskey" Route. Our guide's name was Chombo. I climbed with my friend from college Annette, two of her colleagues from the cruise ship - Marc the IT guy and Melissa the dancer. We were also joined by Marc's father and brother.

OCT 9, 2009 - Met everyone in the airport, plane left after midnight with a 4 hour layover in Nairobi. We arrived at the hotel on no sleep to find it looked like a triage unit. Everyone was limping or bandaged or bleeding through bandages.

OCT 10, 2009 - DAY 1 - We began our climb with great weather, but we could see the clouds closing in. A few hours in the climb it began to drizzle. Everyone pulled out their wet weather gear, nice water proof jackets and bag covers. I had a jacket my mom had loaned me that folds into its own little bag and a trash bag for my backpack. This is where I learned the difference between water resistant and water proof. I was soaked and miserable, and still had hours and hours left to hike.

OCT 11, 2009 - DAY 2 - The day started better with sunshine and everyone in good spirits. The hike was beautiful, like walking through a Dr. Seuss book. We got to camp around 2pm and were served a hot lunch of chicken (well, that's what I hope it was), veggies, and breaded fried bread (I didn't know you could bread bread). About an hour later I felt the gurgle in my stomach alerting me something was wrong. Actually, it was so loud that Melissa heard it too. I tried to ignore it but there was nothing I could do...it was food poisoning. Needless to say I didn't sleep that night. Lunch on Day 2 was the last time I ate until we were off the mountain.

OCT 12, 2009 - DAY 3 - I opened the tent the next morning to see frost on the ground, it wasn't a good start to the day. Everyone tried to convince me to eat, but the thought of food just made me want to be sick again. Day 3 was tough, with no sleep and no food in my system I had very little energy, but I did the best I could. A short while into the trip, I got sick again. Let's just say, I've had better days. Chombo came over and helped me take my pack off and gave me some coke to settle my stomach. I cried a little, mostly disappointed that this probably meant I wouldn't summit and I didn't want to come all this way to fail. Chombo promised me he would get me to the top, but in my heart I didn't think there was any chance of making it.

OCT 13, 2009 - DAY 4 - Today I woke up in much better spirits. We had camped on a rocky ledge overlooking the valley, and our campsite had an amazing view of the peak. The weather was great, and I knew we would get to do some bouldering up Barranco Wall. I still wasn't able to eat, but I was feeling a little better. I made it all the way to the top of BW before I felt sick again, the rest of the day was long and excruciating. We hiked up a long hill and at the top could see camp, unfortunaly as we got closer we could tell there was a valley between us, which meant another descent and ascent. I've never been more miserable. Again, I didn't complain...but I did ask for several breaks. We arrived at camp around 5:30pm, the group had dinner and again I looked at my plate. I tried my best to eat the plain pasta and soup knowing that in a few hours I would begin the final ascent to the peak, but I just couldn't stomach it.

OCT 14, 2009 - DAY 5 (K-DAY) - Although we had retired to our tents at around 7pm, we got very little sleep due some snoring South Africans in a nearby tent. Then, at 10pm, they woke up and began loudly getting ready and counting off. It was really frustrating. At 11pm we were given tea and told to get ready. Shortly after we had some cookies and a little more tea, threw on our boots and every bit of clothing we had and began the climb from our camp (~4,700m) to Uhuru Peak (~5,850m). It had been 3 days since I had consumed more than an Energade gummy snack or similar, I was only slightly more hydrated due to a shortage of water. Every step felt like it could be my last. I asked for breaks every 20 to 40 minutes and often considered having one of the porters take me back to camp so I wouldn't hold my group back, but they were very supportive (even though stopping meant everyone froze their asses off). My gloves were terrible and I was pretty sure I was going to lose a finger at one point.

The sun rose around 6:30am and we could finally see the peak. It still looked so far away, but I put my head down and just followed Chombo's steps. For much of the ascent the ground was loose gravel on a steep slope, and with each step I took I would lose a few inches. Just 7 short hours after we began our climb, we reached Stella Point just below the peak. Reaching Stella Point means you get a green certificate, and even though I never dreamed I would get that far after the week I had, I knew I had to go for the gold (certificate, that is). After a short rest (and pee break) at Stella Point, we headed out.

Uhuru Peak is about a 45 minute steady grade walk from Stella Point with beautiful views of the glaciers and valley below. I was feeling pretty good with my goal in sight. In what seemed like only moments later, there we were, in front of the famous sign. We took a few pics and video and began our descent just as everyone was beginning to feel ill. We were elated to have made it, but unfortunately for some, the route down was much more painful than the way up... (to be continued).

MOM - DON"T READ THIS ONE

tracy — Thu, 8 Oct 2009 23:38:00 GMT

I have only a few hours left in Cape Town and decided to head down to Long Street from my hostel, as I have done, alone, several times since staying here. Today's experience, however, was a bit different. On the short jaunt down the hill the 4 small blocks to Long Street I was approached by a young boy about 14. He asked me for money. I had been very careful up until this point to carry some small bills in one pocket, and larger bills in a separate pocket. When I was approached, however, I could not remember which pocket had what. Also, it was broad daylight so I really wasn't expecting for someone to ask me for money as they usually only approach people at night. I was also told not to give them money because they would just ask for more and more and then assault you if they thought you were holding out on them.

When I told the kid that I didn't have any cash on me he became agitated. I frantically began to pat my pockets, trying to figure out which one had the small bills...I didn't want him to think I was wealthy and try to steal my bag (which had my passport, health card, and credit cards in it). That's when he said to me, "I almost had to stab that guy for trying to make a fool out of me," pointing to a guy just down the street, "give me your money."

I reached into my pants pocket, grabbed a handful of change, the equivalent of about $10, and poured it into his hands telling him it was all I had and I was very sorry.

He smiled, turned to me and said, "God bless you," then turned and walked away.

As I type this I'm still a little freaked out...needless to say I'll be taking a taxi back to the hostel when I leave the cafe.

Cape Point Tour

tracy — Thu, 8 Oct 2009 20:03:00 GMT

Yesterday I headed out on a day tour to Cape Point, the place where the Indian Ocean meets the Atlantic...and one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. I awoke that morning to rain pounding against the window in my dorm room, not the best day to head out on a tour that included a boat ride, a bike ride, and a long hike; but I decided to take my chances. There were only four of us on the trip, an American and aspiring photographer from Vermont named Justin, a couple from London (he is a lawyer who grew up in Botswana - although his wife was quick to point out that he only lived there until he was 11; she, a doctor). Our tour guide, Isaac, was hilarious and had an incredibly dry sense of humor. For the first few hours, we couldn't tell if he was kidding or not...and his stories had us in stitches. Minas (the doctor) was convinced he was serious when he told us that he's not supposed to drink when he takes people on the wine tours, but he can't resist brandy and believes he is a much better driver and guide after he's had a few. I'm pretty sure he was kidding...then again, you never know.

We followed the Atlantic Seaboard, past Clifton and Camps Bay (where the rich people live), to the fishing town of Hout's Bay for a quick boat ride to Duiker Island (AKA Seal Island) to check out the seals. Although it had rained for most of our drive, the skies remained dry for the 45 minute boat ride, and immediately let loose once we were back on the bus.

Next we continued along the scenic Chapman's Peak Drive to Simon's Town where we stopped at Boulder's Beach to check out the (I'm not kidding) Jackass Penguins. I don't know how they got their name, they seemed quite pleasant to me.

Shortly after checking out the penguins and the gorgeous beach on which they reside, Isaac pulled the bus over. There were several baboons along the side of the road, and one of them was carrying her baby. Isaac explained to us that we had to keep the doors locked because the baboons knew how to open them. And that we shouldn't eat anything or show them food because they would go crazy. Also, apparently they love cell phones and if they see one will take it (there is nothing you can do). If they get in the car, they will let you know that it's time for you to go with a flash of their teeth and few scratches. If you resist, your fate could me much worse. A few minutes later the otherwise lazy looking baboons run off. Isaac begins to laugh and says, "look, they got one." We turned to see a small blue car, all the doors and trunk open, and the occupants all standing outside while the baboons rummaged through the car. It was quite a site.

From there we continued on to Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve where we departed the bus and got on the bikes we had been pulling behind the van. The skies were dark and a bit ominous, but Isaac told us it was only about 20-30 minutes to the visitor center where we would stop for lunch. Luckily the rain held out and the bike ride was amazing! About 2 minutes after we sat down to make sandwiches the skies opened again and poured harder than I've ever seen it rain in CA. A few minutes later the rain was over and we could see a bit of blue in the sky. Isaac asked if we were interested in biking the rest of the way to Cape of Good Hope. We decided a little rain never hurt anyone and decided to get back on the bikes (while the tourists from the other companies got back in their vans and buses and continued on). The second leg of the road had a few more hills than the first...although I kicked all their butts on the uphill, I was a bit worried about going fast, downhill, on a wet, bumpy road, with no bike lane, buses barreling down you, and with a helmet that only kind of fit (sorry mom)...so I slowed down and was quickly passed by the rest of the group. Before I knew it I was all alone, on a bike, in a nature reserve, without another soul in site. It was absolutely amazing...until I saw the group of baboons waiting around the next turn. I had slowed because I saw a great picture opportunity, but as I watched them, watching me, I decided the best course of action was to peddle as hard I could past them and hope for the best. I missed the picture, but I still have all my appendages (which is nice).

I met up with the rest of the group at Cape of Good Hope and we decided, against all better judgment, that we would attempt the hike to Cape Point. At this point any blue in the sky had disappeared, and thick gray clouds filled the sky. We began at quick pace, and I was excited to finally be doing to Kili training, but were almost immediately distracted by the "view point" signs and the opportunity for some scenic pics. We all took our turns posing on the cliffs...and then the skies opened up. We were too far in to turn back, besides our driver was meeting us on the other side. We were drenched and bummed we couldn't take any of the detours to the private beaches or stop to take pics, but on the bright side we were the only ones on a very touristy trail. About 30 minutes later we made it to Cape Point and, of course, the rain stopped.

Okay, time to head out to Kili. If the hotel in Moshi has internet I will update this. If not, check out Zara Tours and Machame Route to find out what I'll be up to for the next week.

Shark Diving

tracy — Tue, 6 Oct 2009 23:27:00 GMT

Don't have much time to write, hopefully the video speaks for itself. This was one of the smaller sharks we saw all day, but when those jaws are inches from your face, it really doesn't matter how big or small the great white shark is. :-)

Getting there...

tracy — Mon, 5 Oct 2009 20:09:00 GMT

On Thursday October 1st, I flew to NYC and spent an amazing 36 hours giving my mother and aunt a whirlwind tour of the Big Apple in exchange for letting me stay in their hotel room. I also got to catch up with Miki and spend an evening with her and her darling boyfriend. It was great, I only wish I had had more time to see friends.

On Saturday October 3rd I left the hotel at 8am...about 18+ hours later I landed in Johannesburg International Airport.

Due to my lack of planning, I had been forced to buy a Business Class ticket from Johannesburg to Cape Town...turned out to be the best accident ever. After a 15+ hour flight from NYC to Jo-burg, I was able to relax in a luxury lounge with free food and drinks in comfortable chairs. I never want to fly coach again.

I was picked up from Cape Town airport by Suganye (just a guess on that spelling-needless to say, I just called him Su) who was sent by the folks at my hostel, Saltycrax. He is such a great guy, we spent the 20 minute ride chatting about random stuff. I learned that he was born in Malawi, has travelled pretty extensively in Africa, and can speak 8 languages. Since that time, Su and I have made fast friends and he has become almost like our (Annette and I) personal chaffeure.

Ok, I know this was boring, but I'm having trouble sitting inside trying to be creative and funny when there is so much stuff to do here. I'll try more later, maybe even revise this. Also, I'll try to add some photos and video later.

The night before the flight

tracy — Thu, 1 Oct 2009 20:09:00 GMT

I didn't sleep at all the night before the flight to NY; just tossed and turned - panicking about all the things I had forgotten to do and buy before my trip, concerned about how heavy my backpack was already and how I would be able to fit anything else in it, and upset with myself for not finalizing my plans after the Kilimanjaro excursion. It all seems a bit silly now, Africa is AMAZING!!!

Gallery: BVI

tracy — Sun, 27 Sep 2009 14:31:00 GMT

Sailing the British Virgin Islands 2008

Gallery: London

tracy — Sun, 27 Sep 2009 14:30:00 GMT

Pics from trips to London (2000 & 2006)

Gallery: Croatia 2006

tracy — Tue, 22 Sep 2009 11:57:00 GMT

Split & Dubrovnik

Gallery: Bosnia 2006

tracy — Tue, 22 Sep 2009 11:41:00 GMT

Mostar & Sarajevo

Preparing for the trip

tracy — Tue, 22 Sep 2009 10:49:00 GMT

Some of my friends & family have expressed an interest in keeping up with my little trip to Africa, so I thought I'd start this journal. Okay, so it wasn't a formal request or anything...I guess the more likely reason is that I'm a self-indulgent narcissist who thinks people actually care about what I'm doing or what I have to say despite all evidence to the contrary.

I'm not sure how much internet access I'll have on the trip, but I know you're all dying to know what adventures (or jails) I'll get myself into. So stay tuned...I'll try to update the blog and add pictures and video when I'm not, you know, living my life.

The story will begin in Johannesburg (Jozi or Jo'burg for short) on October 4th. So far on the itinerary:

Cage Diving with Great Whites in Shark Alley off the coast of Cape Town, South Africa
Climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro along the Machame Route, and
Spending a relaxing couple days at the Bulungula Lodge on the Wild Coast of South Africa and hanging out with local village kids.

Annette, my crazy nomad friend from Cornell, and I are still trying to figure out how to fit a bungee jumping excursion into the trip. Come on folks, when someone advertises the HIGHEST BUNGEE JUMP IN THE WORLD, you make it happen!

Here are websites for some of my accomodations and activities:

www.saltycrax.com

www.white-shark-diving.com

http://www.faceadrenalin.com/aboutus.asp

http://www.zaratours.com/kilimanjaro/machame.html

www.bulungula.com

Until next time...