DR's Dérive

Bad sand, good sand.

thewanderingrock — Wed, 14 Oct 2015 09:21:00 GMT

Bad sand. Many days and many miles of desert have passed since leaving Zorrittos. One night stays at Chiclayo, Trujillo, Lima, Paracas and Nazca (and an overnight bus ride) gets us to Arequipa. While the buses in Ecuador were less comfortable, the view was significantly better - mountains, valleys, waterfalls, villages, grazing animals... Watching the hundreds and hundreds of miles of sand and dunes along coastal northern Peru didn't do much to pass the time. The rides were long, not very comfortable, and stress inducing. Two ten hour bus rides during the day were particularly challenging, the overnight was not as bad as I was able to get roughly five solid hours of sleep.

Good sand. On the positive side, the desert provided fascinating sites - and sand boarding! Throughout the last week we visited an excellently curated museum featuring artifacts of the Lord of Sipan, the head of a local tribe that rules from 500 - 1,000 AD; toured Moche archaeological sites; flew over the famous Nazca lines and went sand boarding after traversing the desert in a dune buggy. Flying down the dunes on either my stomach or bum was terrifying and exhilarating. Less fun - and breathtaking, literally - was climbing back up the lose sand that comprises the huge dune.

While there were some interesting sites and adventures - I am glad to be done with this part of the journey. The very long bus rides separated by single night stays was both mentally and physically exhausting. Looking forward, most of our stops are for at least two nights - and our Machu Picchu trek is just around the corner.

Random highlights

Learning so much about the Sipan culture from an excellent guide at Museo Tumbas Reales del Senor de Sipan

All of the cats in Parque Kennedy in Miraflores

Walking along the coast in Miraflores; watching locals jogging, playing tennis and generally enjoying a beautiful Sunday morning

Hearing Total Eclipse of the Heart - AGAIN - from my hotel window in Miraflores

Finding that the string of shacks behind the bus depot that was our hostel in Paracas had actually fairly clean and modern interiors

Not crying, nor throwing up, before/during/after the flight over the Nazca lines (in a six seater prop plan!)

An honest and comforting conversation with a fellow tour member in the hotel courtyard

Continuing to push out of my comfort zone and participating in the sand boarding excursion

Quality time with the group

thewanderingrock — Tue, 6 Oct 2015 16:20:00 GMT

Since visiting Cuenca, Ecuador (Saturday/Sunday) and arriving in Zorritos, Peru (yesterday) there hasn't been much to do or see, which has been a nice change of pace. During the last few days I have been happy to spend more time with some members of the tour group - which has helped us move past pleasantries into more meaningful conversation. It has been comforting to be able to connect with others and it has helped me get through the moments when homesickness hits.

Cuenca was a bit dissapointing. It is the third largest city in Ecuador and is often billed as the most beautiful. Unfortunately, we were there Saturday evening and Sunday when nearly everything is closed (and it was unseasonably cool). Another long travel day (8 plus hours) brought us to Zorritos, Peru, an extremely sleepy coastal town. Accomodations are rustic to say the least - even more basic than the Amazon. The next two days will include significant travel (8 hr bus, overnight in hotel, then overnight bus) to get us down to Lima. Yesterday's bus ride was slightly torturous (so many sharp turns); the upcoming days are causing me some concern. I'm keeping in mind that Lima is the light at the end of (this) tunnel. We will (supposedly) be in one of the nicest hotels of the trip and a few of us plan to scout out a movie theatre that shows films in English. Until then, more time by the beach followed by paella and a bonfire tonight.

Random Highlights

Seeing Cindy in Cuenca (Swiss friend I met in Quito) for drinks and chips/guac

Being able to enjoy a vodka soda by requesting the following at the bar: 1) vodka shot; 2) sparking water (agua con gas); 3) cup of ice; 4) straw

Laughing at a Michael Jackson impersonator in white(!) face in Cuenca

Having the tour group members amazed at my age/thinking I was much younger (after the two people in their 60s, I'm the eldest of the 16)

Watching Fashion Police on E! in English

Bobbing around the warm water of the Pacific

Recovering fairly quickly from finding out that my "room" in Zorritos does not have a private bath; and better yet - it's a shared drop toilet or a bowl you have to pour a bucket of water into (no flushing)

And just a few Lowlights

Walking past three huge dead rotting sea lions on the beach, causing me to be concerned that I swam in the ocean

Eating a questionable lunch of ceviche; currently praying that I don't get hit with a bout of food poisoning

Adventures abound in Banos

thewanderingrock — Fri, 2 Oct 2015 21:45:00 GMT

Two and a half days in the epicenter of adventure sports in Ecuador. Banos is the perfect tourist destination. Lots to do, good food/nightlife and easy to navigate. After arriving from the Amazon we check in to the hotel and go to lunch (soup/chicken/rice of course). A walking tour followed. "Asian" is for dinner. The restaurant was pitched as Indian/Asian - but proved to be neither. Why would I even try to get Pad Thai in Ecuador?

Yesterday was an all day tour of the local waterfalls, including the Pailon del Diablo (Devil's Cauldron). Snaking through the caves (it wasn't a long distance, but it was exhausting and a bit claustrophobic) to get behind the fall was worth the effort - and fear. The highlight of the day, by far, was the Swing at the End of the World. Both dizzying and a bit terrifying - it is an "attraction" I was very much looking forward to and it didn't disappoint.

Today adventure continued with my first white water rafting experience (ever) on Level III/IV Rapids. I almost cancelled this morning - but pushed through the fear and was ready to go in wetsuit, helmet, life jacket and water shoes by 10. I can't remember the last time I had such an adrenaline rush - and sore muscles. Tonight will end with a visit to the spa for a massage and possibly a dip in the thermal pools.

Tomorrow we hit the road for an eight hour bus journey to Cuenca.

Random Highlights

Free flaming shots at the Leprechaun Bar (a decidedly un-Irish club)

Feeling absolutely free and at peace at the treehouse/Swing at the End of the World

Battling my fears and crawling behind the Devil's Cauldron

Churrasco at La Posada del Arte (steak! eggs! iron!)

Staying relatively calm when tour members continually ask for my uneaten food at restaurants (where/how is this standard and acceptable practice?)

Befriending the hotel's resident cat

Being one of the few in my raft not to end up in the river

Getting one of the best deep tissue massages of my life (not hyperbole)

The Amazon

thewanderingrock — Wed, 30 Sep 2015 22:14:00 GMT

A 20 minute van ride, five hour bus ride, another 20 minute van ride, 10 minute boat ride and a bit of walk gets me to Shiripuno Community Lodge where the Kichwa tribe lives in the Amazon jungle. The past three days have been jammed packed with learning how the locals live here. Activities include a cultural dance on the beach complete with bonfire (and the limbo), a three hour trek through the jungle, a night walk in an attempt to spot insects and spiders (why would I want to know what could be in my bed?!), cooking lessons, craft making and more.

Accommodations are certainly rustic, but we do have electricity and (cold) running water. The heat and humidity are exhausting - though probably not as bad as NYC in the summer. Sleep has been scarce. I feel like I've done and seen so much during the three days in the Amazon, it will be best captured in Random Highlights...

Random Highlights

Watching "Let's be Cops" in Spanish during the bus ride

Eating hoof soup in Tena (yes, a cow hoof was in my soup; no, you don't actually naw on the hoof)

Trying chontacuro (beetle larva!) - tastes like really buttery popcorn

Bonding with tour members over Pilsner grandes

Reading in the hammock

Watching leaf cutter ants march through the jungle

Feeling like I was in summer camp making beaded bracelets

Not being half bad at shooting a blow dart

Surviving the Amazon

Shrunken heads and public buses

thewanderingrock — Sat, 26 Sep 2015 22:28:00 GMT

Adventures in Quito continued. I let the hotel reception convince me that I could take public transportation (two buses) to the equator line/museums. Half way to the station I realized I was clearly over my head - turned back and requested a car. For significantly more money - and peace of mind - I got a taxi that took me to the two museums (waited for me there) and took me back. Arriving at the first museum, Intinan Solar Museum, (and true equator line) I saw my new Swiss friend, Cindy! We spend the rest of the day together and made plans to have dinner the next day (Saturday).

I am thoroughly impressed with the Intinan Museum - especially with the shrunken head (it's real!), seeing water drain without the Coriolis effect (no swirl at the bottom of the drain), and unsuccessfully walking a straight line along the equator (the pulls of the northern and southern hemisphere affect your inner ears).

That night I met the motley crew of the tour group in the evening. Ages range from 18 to 60s. Mostly women, with some men. Out of the 16, I am one of two Americans. Most are Australian and British.

Saturday is spent at one of the most famous markets in Latin America, Otovalo. While beautiful - the three buses and three plus hours to get there made it difficult to say it was worth it. I wanted to take private transportation, but I was the only one of my tour who wanted to go that way, making it cost prohibitive. So I went with two tour members and a Canadian couple they had met previously. Traveling like a local was an adventure. By far, my favorite part of the day was the delicious lunch of soup, roasted chicken, rice and potatoes.

I was very grateful to come back to the city nine hours later to meet Cindy for a cocktail at a rooftop bar followed by empanadas at a great restaurant with live music on La Ronda.

Random Highlights:

Learning how to shrink heads

Clapping along with Hare Krishnas on La Ronda

Not getting pick pocketed on the public city bus

Finding out that the baby crying on the bus to Otavalo was actually a chicken in a woman's lap

Amazing live band at quaintest bar on La Ronda

Getting mocked by school children and other adventures

thewanderingrock — Fri, 25 Sep 2015 22:17:00 GMT

Day 1 is in the books - and it was an adventure. I'm perpetually surprised by my ability to get lost, yet end up exactly where I am supposed to be. The walking tour did not work out (as I could not find the location) - but I happened upon a "hop on, hop off" tour. I was able to see much more of the city and made a new friend, Cindy! She recognized me from the flight to Atlanta - we quickly struck up a conversation and spent the rest of the day exploring together and having a delicious dinner of craft beer and pizza. She was also able to explain to me the calls and giggles from a school bus that was passing us. I had my shawl wrapped around my shoulders - and apparently I resembeled Mother Mary to a group of young boys. In summary - I couldn't have asked for a better start to my trip and look forward to meeting up with Cindy again when I arrive in Cuenca in a week or so.

Random Highlights:

Hearing "Total Ecliplse of the Heart" while walking through the streets

Having to register with the local police (give name/country of origin) while sitting in the plaza - and the officer starting to rattle off random things related to NY - Frank Sinatra! Big Apple!

Not getting completely and totally winded walking up and down the incredibly steep streets of Quito

Photos: South America

thewanderingrock — Tue, 22 Sep 2015 19:04:00 GMT

Two months along the west coast

The night before departure

thewanderingrock — Tue, 22 Sep 2015 18:51:00 GMT

Calls, texts and emails come in wishing me well. How are you feeling? Nervous (really scared out of my mind) and unbelievably excited. I've packed, unpacked and repacked at least a dozen times - trying to compile, and arrange, the perfect list of "must haves". While I can't believe I'm here - having sold my apartment and quit my job - it also seems so right. Tomorrow a new adventure begins. And I think I may just be ready.

Photos: Recent Travel Pics

thewanderingrock — Fri, 14 Aug 2015 01:49:00 GMT

Best shots pre-nomad life.