Ten Tips for a (single, female) traveler coming to India

thegypsydiaries — Thu, 10 May 2012 06:08:00 GMT

While I was working as a Legal Officer in a small Non-governmental Organization in Ahmedabad last year, I had the opportunity of meeting some amazing young researchers who came from far and wide to conduct a field study of Environment issues across Gujarat. One among them was a friend, lets call her ‘O’, is probably the most prepared single female traveler I have come across.

We traveled a part of the coast, had droves of people stare at us, met some of the most remarkable people, learned new things from people who are otherwise called ‘illiterate’ and even ate food (largely prawn and catfish) that I might never find elsewhere again!

Sometimes, I think I was destined to meet her – O and I got along like a house on fire and this is a small tribute to the many conversations we had about a single female traveler who would like to visit India. It is difficult, I acknowledge – but with resources and a network in place it is possible.

I shall write about my adventures and mis-adventures with ‘O’ to Shiyalbet some other day, but for now here are ten handy tips for a lone woman traveling in India.

A caveat – these are not foolproof, some can be read in guidebooks, some is of course plain ol’ common sense, but for good measure – each comes from a personal lesson and experience that renders it worthy to share !

1. “Adjust” – A six-letter word that means the same thing whether it is for space, time, food preferences – but ought not to be for water, hygiene and clothing. While venturing out, carrying a small bottle of water from where you trust is always sensible, but re-use and re-fill for responsible travel. If you can, learn a few Hindi catch-phrases for the North and remember that in South India, people enjoy a funny spoken English – but you must speak very slowly.

2. Tickets and reservations in India are not a casual affair. Indian Railways has long Waiting Lists. Bus Tickets booked online should be re-confirmed. Air Tickets have constant SMS updates and the constant need to reconfirm is not necessary anymore, but always look at how much time is required for check-in and security check. High security alerts when floated around cause chaos at airports and flights can be missed if you get stuck in long queues of angry passengers. Tickets are thus as important as your passport and visa, when traveling in India.

3. India is a warm country – extremely hot for eight months a year. The only fabric is that is sensible for sturdy long distance-travel, or outdoors is Cotton. In addition to this, I find carrying a stole (to cover one’s head or legs) is a handy piece of clothing which can be put to multiple uses. Winters in India are severe in the North as compared to the South, but cotton for layers of clothing is always a MUST.

4. Cleavage is something that must be Hidden on a lone woman. In fact, a sensible woman (and I am not trying to be patronizing or gender-insensitive, I speak from hard-learned experiences) will cover her legs too. Yet I find if there is that odd moment where you see a couple of men ogle at your breasts or legs and you have just one jacket or cloth to cover you up – cleavage is what should be hidden. Nothing titillates the Indian male more than Breasts irrespective of size or shape – and for all the brou-haha of ‘Indian Culture’ – breasts are of a hypocritical but universal appeal for men of different ages, size, shape, caste, creed or religion. Also it is advisable to keep lingerie that is simple and comfortable on journeys – falling straps, lacy, stringy stuff or lingerie that is tight , not only brings unwanted attention but in the event of you needing to use a bathroom not your own, could become unbearable for long journeys.

5. When you are in doubt, always stick to Vegetarian Food – Rice, Pulses, Lentils and Chapati freshly cooked are what I believe to be one of the most balanced and healthy diets in the world. Dairy products, especially Milk from Amul is always easily available in nearly every corner of India and triple-times more safe than Chicken or Mutton while on the move. This is of course, if you feel queasy or have not acclimatized to Indian food and weather as yet. Sometimes – just remember, Have a Banana!

6. Two essential carry-on items – Mosquito-repellent cream (Odomos or Good Knight Naturals available at any shop around the corner) and a portable Torch. No matter how comfortable your digs, or a guarantee of a Emergency back-up system to power, I have realised that these two items are quite indispensable when needed.

7. The Little Black Book - Something I have found very useful while traveling despite the onslaught of cellphones, laptops, iphones etc, carry a pocket book that lists out all your local contacts, phone numbers and addresses , which is easy to locate and read when the time calls for it. There could be several places or times when all you need to do is refer to the hotel or local house that you are staying and problems disappear in a snap! (For Police, Persons of actual or perceived authority, verifications at odd points – as this shows preparedness, minus technological dependency – your less likely to be taken for a ride!)

8. Eye-contact and Engagement - India is quite paradoxical on several levels. For a lone female traveler a funny thing to remember is never keep your gaze lingering on another man for too long. It is seen as a direct inclination to engage for help, ticket touts or unwanted attention. But you can always smile politely and briefly, especially when a man is accompanied by a woman and talk directly to a woman. Women respond to signs or understand when another woman needs a toilet, change of clothes, water, emergency medicines much more readily at most tourist- thronged places and are highly resourceful.

9 . Questions on your husband, father, caste or country and where you are from once you are introduced to someone new, yet is a perfect stranger are considered perfectly acceptable and un-intrusive. Find a simple answer – “He is on business” “He has to look after emergency” “He is an engineer/ doctor” I am … and then ask people about their families to stop a one-way inquisition. Usually, to ask a woman or family about her children is the best ice-breaker. But if a lone man is trying to talk to you when alone repeatedly, move to the nearest public space as fast as you can without drawing too much attention, but do not engage for more than what is your teleos.

10. India is for the adventurous, despite your preparedness or resourcefulness there is a constant element of unpredictability – my advice to you is the more you resist India the more hostile she becomes. Come with the spirit to learn something new from whom you least expect to, and a wholly different miracle takes place!

Photos: The King Of Hearts

thegypsydiaries — Sun, 22 Apr 2012 13:38:00 GMT

Sajid at Hazrat Nizamuddin Dargah

My Scholarship entry - Seeing the world through other eyes

thegypsydiaries — Sun, 22 Apr 2012 05:37:00 GMT

Incense sticks are lit; then he vigorously washes his hands and wears a skull cap. “Here desires come true” he affirms entering the dargah – the tomb of Hazrat Nizamuddin, a revered Sufi saint of Delhi. Today Sajid is my guide; a young migrant who earns about USD 300 a month, working sixteen hours a day to feed a family of six, including a widowed mother.

Two little girls cling onto the intricately carved honeycomb grill and kneel before the tomb. Women in headscarves carry Styrofoam plates of red rose petals, myrrh, vials of scent, a green cloth and sweets. Above, a canopy of Neem and Peepul trees, their roots and branches intermingled. Red sandstone, white marble, inscriptions in Arabic, green and gold figurines - the tombs are resplendent against the setting sun. People stream in and out, some chanting, others placing their offerings. Many splash water onto their faces, keen to wash away the weariness and grime of the city.

Sajid emerges from the mausoleum radiant. “Pray here; if answered, you must come back again,” he decrees. “Nizamuddin was the greatest King of Delhi” he adds, as I watch him give hundred rupees to an old tramp in the corner! I want to reply “But he was a poor saint, not a king.”

I refrain.
Humbled by Sajid’s benevolence, I pray for his happiness and listen like a tourist in my own city. The crowd amasses as the hour for evening namaaz nears. Every four feet, a mendicant occupies the marble. In the chaos, I stumble over a begging bowl of an old lady.

Kneeling before her I realise I am a Hindu girl but here in a Muslim shrine that is thronged by millions every year. Not thousands, millions! In a parallel history, the saint reigned the hearts and minds of immigrants coming into the capital irrespective of caste, creed or faith, transcending the test of time. Doesn’t that make a true king? Sajid too is ‘rich’ not poor.
I put all my offerings into her hands. As I stand, he beams. I realise my prayer is answered. It is time to come back again.

The Gypsy Diaries

Ten Tips for a (single, female) traveler coming to India

Photos: The King Of Hearts

My Scholarship entry - Seeing the world through other eyes