South America 2007

The end of the trip

tammyrenwick — Mon, 17 Sep 2007 07:38:00 GMT

Well unfortunately there will be no more photos on the blog as my camera was stolen today with all the most recent photos. What can you do eh?

Am now in Quito, spending my last few days before I fly home. Spent this morning exploring the Old Town which had a lovely relaxed atmosphere with lots of families enjoying the street performers, cafes and live jazz. Lots of beautiful buildings, art exhibitions and churches making it hard to believe you are in South America. Last night I ended up in a wonderful Salsa club with a few locals after meeting them in a cafe in the Bohemian neighborhood of Quito. Gorgeous people and amazing dancers. Really want to learn Salsa now!

After my wonderful adventure to the refuge in the South of Ecuador I made my way north towards Quito. Stopped in Cuenca, an old colonial town with beautiful churches and plazas and spent a day visiting the bustling Sunday markets of 3 nearby towns. Then onto Banos, a chilled out town in the central highlands, nestled in between hills and an active volcano! So much to do here, but only spent a couple of days cycling and walking in the hills before rushing up to see Otovalo´s famous Saturday market with hundreds of stalls selling Ecuadorian crafts.

Ecuador is def top on my lit of places to come back to- what a wonderful country. Amazing people and so much diversity. A brilliant end to my trip!

The start of Ecuador

tammyrenwick — Sat, 8 Sep 2007 12:00:00 GMT

Have just spent 2 very special days at a refuge in Podocarpus national park in the South of Ecuador. Took 4 hrs to walk there from the village of Vilcabamba but was well worth it when I eventually reached a small, basic but very comfy cottage with hammocks on the deck and a stunning view of the valley infront and the sound of the river below. Managed to light a fire that evening, which I was very proud of, and spent the evening sat by it looking up at unbelievable stars. There were so many people I thought of whilst there who would love it, I cannot wait to come back. Its funny how things work out when travelling. I hadn´t even thought of coming here until I met a lady just before I was about to a book bus ticket somewhere else who suggested I come here. After 4 days of travelling it was heaven to arrive in this tranquil village in a beautiful valley, where I teated myself to nice accomodation (hot showers, ensuite, delicious bfast and all for only $10!) and the best massage I have ever had. After leaving Cuzco in Peru I spent a few consecutive nights on buses rushing up to Equador and only stopping briefly on the Northern coast of Peru. Had planned to visit the Galapagos Islands but decided to leave it for another trip when I have more time. Felt a pity to see so little of Peru but I have to admit that I didn´t fall for the place. Haven´t seen much of Ecuador and not much time left but I def have a great feeling about this place. Cannot wait to see more!

Salkantay trek and Machu Picchu

tammyrenwick — Mon, 3 Sep 2007 09:53:00 GMT

Machu Picchu was recently voted as one of the new 7 wonders of the world, something which I can def confirm- absolutely stunning! I have to admit that I generally haven´t gotten massively excited about Inka ruins but this was something different. The location of Machu Picchu is what makes it so breathtaking, perched atop a hill in amongst tropical forest, very mystical and magical.

When we initially arrived at the top we had a brief view of the ruins without the crowds but it soon clouded over so that we were unable to see beyond te closest buildings. After an interesting tour and warm tea we were so pleased to glimpse a bit of blue sky and the surrounding mountains. I quickly rushed to climb Waynupicchu (the hill behind Machu Picchu) as only a certain number of people can climb it each day. By the tme I reached the top I had views of the whole of the sight and the surrounding scenery.

What made seeing Machu Picchu even more special though, was having walked for 4 days to get there and then run up 1600 steps that mornign to beat the buses! The trek started in a small town in the mountains and lasted 4 days. There were 12 of us, a really nice group. The 1st two days were long and hard and took us through mountain scenery, past glaciers and through spectacular valleys, passing our highest point (4600m) at lunchtime on the second day. The next two days were completely different as we made our way through tropical forest, enjoying hot springs on the way before reaching Aguas Caliente (a small town at the base of Machu Picchu) at the end of the 4th day.

Certainly one of the highlights of the trip and something I will never forget.

Peru

tammyrenwick — Sun, 2 Sep 2007 09:22:00 GMT

Just over two weeks in Peru now and whilst I have to admit I do miss Bolivia, I am having a fabulous time here, loving being in a new different place. Peru is definitely more catered for tourists but this has made it so much easier to meet people, which has been great. Spent many enjoyble evenings in Cuzco haing nice meals and going out with friends I have made.

Leaving Bolivia I arrived in Puno on the other side on Lake Titicaca from where I did a two day tour of three of the Peruvian Islands. Isla del Sol in Bolivia was special beacuse of its beautiful scenery but the Peruvian Islands provided more of a look at a completely different culture as the majority of the local populations still maintain a traditionl way of life. We first stopped at the Uros Islands, which are floating and constantly renewed by reeds that grow on the lake- incredible that people live like this. We then had a long boat ride to Amantani Island where we were split into twos and greeted by the families we would be staying with for the night. I ended up with a lovely old lady in her ramshakle, but comfy farmhouse with great views of the lake. Another beautiful sunset from the Inka ruins on the higest point of the Island. That evening (after a traditional Peruvian dinner cooked by our host on her wood fire in her very basic kitchen) we were dressed up in the typical clothing- big bright skirts with lots of petticoats, white embroidered shirts and waist bands to keep everything up as well as a black shawl worn over the head. Not so easy to dance in!

The next day we visited Taquile Island where the clothes that people wear denotes their marital status. Different coloured skirts for women and different colour hats for men. Seems like a good idea to me!

From Puno I went onto Cuzco. Being the base for visitng Machu Picchu I expected a horrible place but was pleasantly surprised by a lovely, colonial city. Admitidly, there are alot of tourists and I felt as though I could be in a European city rather than South America but it still has lots of charm with old white buildings, original Inka walls, cobblestone alleys, beautiful churches, and lots of very yummy cafes and restaurants.

Gallery: Peru- Puno, Cuzco, Salkantay trek and Machu Picchu!

tammyrenwick — Sun, 2 Sep 2007 08:34:00 GMT

Gallery: Last of Bolivia- Sorata, Copacabana and Isla del Sol

tammyrenwick — Sun, 2 Sep 2007 07:50:00 GMT

The end of Boliva

tammyrenwick — Thu, 23 Aug 2007 08:56:00 GMT

From Santa Cruz and a very long bus journey I popped back into La Paz for the night. Was lovely to see everyone and catch up.

From La Paz I went to Sorata, a small sleepy town in a mountain range north of La Paz. Lots of nice walks, reading and relaxing but unfortunately I didn’t get to go on a trek as it poured the day I was supposed to start. Will have to wait until Peru.

Making my way towards Peru I then went to Copacabana, a town on edge of Lake Titicaca. Titicaca is the highest navigable lake in the world (about 3800m) but I felt as though I was on a Greek island as the waters were a beautiful blue and the surrounding countryside quite rugged. I met a lovely American couple here and went with them to Isla del Sol, a nearby Island. The Island is covered in Inca ruins and according to Inca mythology is the birth place of the sun. We got a (very slow) boat to the north of the Island from where we walked to the south along a high ridge with beautiful views of small villages and bays on the island. I can see why they call in the birthplace of the sun, I have never seen such an incredible sunset.

Back to the mainland and then to the other side of the lake and Peru! I have absolutely loved every minute of Bolivia and every incredibly different place I have visited. Rich, diverse culture and landscapes, wonderful people and gorgeous children, lots of bargains and always something new and different to discover. I am excited about moving on to a new country but at the same time I know I will miss this place. It’s only the food that I won’t miss; potatoes, rice, potatoes and more rice! I never knew there were so many varieties of potato! The only Bolivian food worth a mention is Saltenas, small Cornish pasties filled with veggies, chicken and a yummy sauce.

Lots of news

tammyrenwick — Thu, 16 Aug 2007 00:55:00 GMT

Lots to fill u all in on, just realised how long it has been since I have written anything on the blog.

Just arrived in Santa Cruz (a big city in eastern Bolivia) where I have a few hours before my bus back towards La Paz. Feels like I could be in a different country to the La Paz i am used. Hot, modern and cosmopolitan with not much sign of any traditional Bolivia. That is what is so incredible about this country- a few hours down the road and you are somewehere completey different. So diverse, this place really does have everything!

Spent the last few days in what is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been (see photos!). Park national Amboro is one of the most bio-diverse places in the world and thankfully still almost completely untouched and waiting to be discovered. I stayed in the only place there is to stay in the park, in lovely colonial style accomodation reached on a very bumpy road . Spent 2 days going on beautiful walks through the tropical forest and climbling the huge sandstone rocks that surround the acomodation, from where the views over the canopy was incredible. Just wish I could ahve stayed longer! Absolute mission to get to but well worth it.

The trip I did to the jungle (Park Madidi) in the north of Bolivia was wonderful but nothing compared to the last few days. Unfortunately I was in a group with 5 Israelis. Nothing against Israelis but they do tend to have a bit of a bad reputation as travellers. After doing their service they tend to go travelling in big groups and take over certain places. Apart from that had lots of fun. Guide was excellent showing us loads of amazing stuff in the jungle. Saw tarantullas, bush pigs, beautiful parrotts fireflys and lots more!
Flying to the jungle was all part of the experience. Incredible to take off from La Paz airport (the only airport in the world where planes have to ascend to land!) where we initially skimmed over mountains before suddenly dropping down over an expanse of green jungle.

Between leaving La Paz and arriving here I also visited Potosi and Sucre. Potosi is the highest city in the world and famous for its co-operative mines in which the conditions are still the same as they would have been hundreds of years ago in most countries. The mines are hot, incredibly dusty and
extremely difficult to scramble around without any proper safety equipment or precoutions. Couldnt believe that about 15 000 of Potosi´s male population still works like this everyday when I was happy to get out after only a few hours.

Sucre is the other capital of Bolivia and known as the white city because of all its beautiful, white, colonial buildings. Not a huge amount to do but a wonderful place to relax. I found a lovely little cafe up on a hill and spent most of my time in thier garden enjoying the sun, cocktails, and watching the sunset over Sucre. The food market here was also incredible, with stalls selling everything you could possibly want. Also amazing juice stands and huge dining rooms, serving up big plates of traditional Bolivian food at minimal cost.

And finally I don´t think I have told u all about my last week in La Paz with the kiddies. Had lots of fun learning the names of the animals in preparation for the trip to the zoo! Made lion maks, snakes and lots of mess with paints and crepe paper. Unfortunately on the day of the trip it was freezing and not all the kids turned up but we still had lots of fun and I was touched to receive a hand made card and bracelet from them when I had to say goodbye. Have had a wonderful time working with the charity but find it difficult leaving and knowing that there is no one to take over after I leave. Hopefully as this project gets more developed there will be a more steady stream of volunteers but at the moment it was hard to leave when still so much more that could be done.

Gallery: Potosi and Sucre

tammyrenwick — Sat, 11 Aug 2007 01:09:00 GMT

Gallery: The last of La Paz

tammyrenwick — Tue, 7 Aug 2007 04:58:00 GMT

Gallery: Worlds most dangerous road

tammyrenwick — Tue, 7 Aug 2007 04:46:00 GMT

Gallery: Last week with the kids

tammyrenwick — Tue, 7 Aug 2007 02:03:00 GMT

Gallery: The Jungle

tammyrenwick — Tue, 7 Aug 2007 01:39:00 GMT

Dangerous cycle rides and more fun with the kids!

tammyrenwick — Thu, 2 Aug 2007 09:42:00 GMT

The jungle turned out to be a big nightmare! Flights were cancelled because of bad weather so after much arguing with frustrating agencies we ended up spending another weekend in La Paz. Turnmed out to be lots of fun anyway. On saturday there was a big parade in La Paz with hundreds of traditional and modern dancers in beautiful, colourful costumes. Lots of hustle and bustle. Hundreds of different street sellers and lots of drunk Bolivians!

To make up for no trip to the jungle on sunday I cycled down the worlds most dangerous road from La Paz to Corocio!!! Was an amazing day. Started at 5000m metres way up above the clouds and initially descended on a paved road through beautiful mountain scenery. The old dirt road then started and we passed through jungle and waterfalls on a road only a few metres wide with a 600m drop in certain parts. Passed lots of crosses! Only a few short uphills but at the altitude it wasnt easy! Finished the ride in lushious jungle in an animal sanctuary where we enjoyed a pool hot showers and good lunch before making the long trip back to La Paz.

This week is my last week with the kids. Feel like I could stay forever, have so much I would love to do with them but time has come to move on again. Taking them all to the zoo on Thursday as a final treat so that should be fun if not hectic! Have been learning animals this week and doing lots of arts and crafts. Messy but lots of fun!

Trying again to go to the jungle on Thursday so keep fingers crossed!

Fun with Kiddies

tammyrenwick — Thu, 26 Jul 2007 11:02:00 GMT

It had to happen eventually, I dont think my tummy was very happy with trout from the market!

Busy week with the kids this week but it has been really nice having Alex here aswell. There are alot fewer kids than we originally expected there would be. We usually only have about 10 each day, which in a way has been nice. Have had fun doing paper mache, learning colours and numbers (which Alex and I have also been learning!) and making lion masks in preparation for a trip to the zoo next week. The kids have def been making alot more progress this week and getting used to the activities we have been doing with them, which has been really encouraging to see.

Feels like I have only just started and could be here much longer but only here 1 more week after this one.

Off to the jungle tomorrow night, heat and oxygen. woooo!

More La Paz

tammyrenwick — Mon, 23 Jul 2007 07:05:00 GMT

Two other girls (Alex and Alexa) arrived last week and it has been lovely to have them here. Lots of fun nights out in La Paz and also really good to have someone else to work at the centre with. Alexa is here for 6 months on placement, mostly working with the women who have suffered domestic violence, helping them to become self sufficient. Will be really interesting to see how she gets on.

Friday was an eventful day in La Paz as the whole city closed down for the day because of a massive protest that was going on about the government moving from La Paz to another city. Was eerily quiete most of the day without stalls littering the streets and the roads crammed with taxis and buses but all very exciting as well.

On saturday we were invited to te Baptism of one of the sons of a lady that runs one of the childcare centres. James and Jeanette had been asked to be the godparents so we all went along to the church and then a party afterwards. Was quite similar to a Baptism at home except that lots of children were baptised during the same ceromony. This is one of the nicest things about being in a place for a while -really getting to know the culture and people. People in La Paz are wonderful, generally really friendly and helpful.

Lots of activites and games planned for the kids next week. Alex and I are determined to make little soldiers out of all of them!

Have just booked a trip to the jungle for next weekend so very excited about that!

Gallery: Baptism, nights out and general La Paz

tammyrenwick — Mon, 23 Jul 2007 05:33:00 GMT

Life in La Paz!

tammyrenwick — Thu, 19 Jul 2007 08:34:00 GMT

Have now been in La Paz for 2 weeks! cannot believe how quickly it has gone! Thought it was about time to let u all know what I have been getting up to.

Spent last weekend at the Salar de Uyuni doing a 3 day tour with 2 other volunteers I have been working with. We got the bus down to the most Southern east region of Bolivia where our tour started. Most incredible, diverse, bizare scenery I have ever seen. Spent the 1st day on the Uyuni salt flats which is a huge expanse of salt remaining from a dried up lake. Other days were spent visiting lagoons, seeing flamingos, volcanoes, hot springs and geysers. Only downside was the cold! At -10 celcius at night your feet dont ever get warm no matter how many pairs of socks you have on!

The rest of my time in Bolivia has been spent in La Paz working with the kiddies! The childcare centres are run by a charity called Ceprosi that primarily works with women who have suffered domestic violence. The childacare centres are for poor communities and look after children for parents who need to work during the day and cannot afford alternative care. The centre I have mostly been working at usually has about 20 children ranging from 1 to 6.

I start my day with a 20p fruit salad from the market and then a 2hour a Spanish lesson before heading up to the centre for the afternoon. By the evenings Im usually shattered and have enjoyed relaxing and having dinner with the other volunteers.

To sum up the experience so far, I absolutely love it here! So nice to stay somewhere for a while and really get to know the people and the place.

More news to follow but off now for dinner with everyone.

Hope u r all having a wonderful summer, and are warmer than I am here!

Gallery: Kiddies!

tammyrenwick — Wed, 18 Jul 2007 07:38:00 GMT

Gallery: Salar de Uyuni

tammyrenwick — Wed, 18 Jul 2007 07:16:00 GMT