Travelin Tales

Day #11 - What goes up must come down

simonehawkins — Wed, 9 Oct 2019 20:35:00 GMT

Pangboche (3990m) > Kyangjuma (3500m)

And into the forrest I go to loose my mind and find my soul.

We're back into the tree line, it's damp and when we past through here just a few days ago it was warmer. The temperature is definately dropping. And the people walking towards us! There must of been god weather for the flights to bring in the trekkers. you notice when flights have been cancelled and delayed it directly affects how many people are on the trail. So dispite tha name of todays blog - there are ALOT of ups. This has been a major difference to previous hikes I've done. With sooooooo many river crossings on swing bridges it requires a decent and accent every time - and this can be heartbreaking. You're essentially doubling up the aount of leg work you' expect you'd need to do.

We cme across some Nepalese Po0lice with Rifles..... One was making fun of me I was sure..... so I charged him..... Full Body Style.... I actually connected shoulders with him.... lucky for me, Courts and Kumar - they all found it funny.... LUCKY

Regardless though we arrive at Kyangjuma around 2:30pm, which is fabulous. Enough time to muck around with our bags, write up some notes, and try not to get tooooo excited at the prospect of a hot shower in Namche tomorrow.

It's now been officially 9 days since my hair has seen shampoo, and it's one big gianmt oil slick. I can' imagiene why I haven't attracted a man in my current condition. Like really? I've outdone myself.

#IRequireAFullBodyDisinfectant

Day #10 - I am in my Church

simonehawkins — Tue, 8 Oct 2019 20:30:00 GMT

Thukla (4630m) > Pangboche (3990m)

Today was a recouping day. Retrospective and full of quiet moments. Courts and I spent most of the day walking down down down. The realisation that our biggest days are over, is uplifting and giving us both a spring in our step. Theres relief in there two i suppose.

It's a good day.

we decide to give ourselves a break and make sure our nexxt few days are nor ridiculous in hiking hours. We're being kind to ourselves. We reach Pangboche to find our accomodation has a western flushing toilet! BONUS!

A sign you are coming back into civilisation

#ModernConveinecesAreMostlyUnderated

Day #9 - Honouring High Places

simonehawkins — Mon, 7 Oct 2019 20:08:00 GMT

Gorakshep (5140m) > EBC (5364m) > Thukla (4630m)

Suprise! Todays alarm goes off at 5:15am JOY I'm nervous, Courts is nervous - we are minus Ann now for the next few days as she's attemptimg Chola Pass. It's the only Pass openm put of the 3 passes due to weather. Courst and I have already decided that we are opting out of the passes. It's been tough.

So here we go! Kumar, Courts and I are the only one on the trial. The weather is absolutely clear although Courts and I ahev not had the most restful sleep. I cant begin to descibe the tea-house that we stayed in last night. Don't get me wriong - none of them have been 5 stars. or even three stars - bu most have been clean and tidy, this was NOT the case at Gorakshep last night. It was grubby, cold and not nice. Even afater not showring for almost a week - we felt llike we needed a sheep dip this morning to disenfect.

Anyway back to the trek.....

thsi initial climb is ok. You can definatelt fell the altitude now. Theres also a dam less amount of cow / Yak / dog poo out this way as ssupplies aren't going to EBC at this time of year. The view is stunning (of course) It's actually like something out of a picture book and its surreal. It's almost soundless. The occasional avalanche to our right as we make our way up. I'm getting slower. SUPRISE. I'm feeling WOOZY. This is new. Courts isn;t that far ahaed at the moment. I'm basically one foot in front of the other. Watching my steps looking up at Lady E. we have the clearest morning to see her. She's brilliant. I catch up to where Courts and Kumar are waiting fore me, and it hits me. i'm done.

Kumar suggests I walk a little further so I can see Everest - this is the carrot e tries to use, I'm like I've been looking at her for the past half hour. I suggest to Courets that she goes up with Kumar and I wait for her here, the waethers glorious (-5?!). we all decide to walk for another 10 minutes. I've resortred o breaking the silence by listeening to some tunes, to see if that will help me to push foward. This works for 5 minutes, and then.....

Jeff Buckely comes on with hallejuyah

I don't have the energy to sing along, but I stop, and know that thats it.

& i know that I'm at peace with that.

Courts is done too, we can literally see Base Campit's half an hour away (for normal people). But we also know the vist awe currently have i sthe absolute best and better than the one we would get at EBC. It's suprising how at ease we botha are with our decision. It's just so very peaceful here not one other person on the trail - it' sboth spiritual and all emcompasing. We all sit in silence for a good 20 minutes.

Then get up and take the obligatory happy snaps and weirdly they were just that.

HAPPY COMPLETE RESOLVED

It's been a big few days and regardless of the end result - we both feel done.

Turning around and making our way ack through Gorak shep it takes an hour before we see another trekker making their way to EBC. We're happy. we spend the next few hours trekking back up and down (Nepali fla) to Loboche we are physically and emotionally done.

and just like that I watch Courts slip in slo-mo into the freezing river at Loboche. I was on go-slow but I race across those river stones llike I'm Ussein Bolt. She hasnt hurt herself but shes upset and a bit wet. It' she time to break. I've had many moments. We walk the 100m to the nearest hotel, re-group and continue onto Thukla.

Huge Day
Huge Result

Getting to the top was always optional, getting down is mandatory. On the last stretch through the Everest Memorial it started to snow, both beautiful and lovely at once.

#CompleteionComesInMayForms

Day #8 - D-Day (oh hang-on! maybe D-Day Eve)

simonehawkins — Sun, 6 Oct 2019 19:31:00 GMT

Laboche (4910m) > Gorakshep (5140m)

Todays starts out like every day. Cold, Exciting, Daunting and full of hope. The plan today is to hike to Gorakshep and have 'lunth' and then climb to Everest Base Camp.

Again though, it's a slow climb. Sooooooo many people passed me, kinda heartbreaking. The hawaiians, the Noreweigen girl, the Dutch guy, the Amercican Bro & Sis, the random Aussie i spoke with about Beer-o-Clock, the SydneySiders, The French couple... arrrrrggggggghhhhhhhhh it's sould crushing.

Ann is way out ahead as per usual, but today Courts is really feeling it. Bad for her, but for the first time on the trek I have someone to walk with. (Kinda at least). For the most part, the battle really is solitary. But today of all days it's nice to have your sister around to share in the absurdity of it all. Then Lady E shows herself, for actually most of the morning walk. She's peaking out of behind Lhotse, and most people are not even aware. But I've had her shape in my head for over a year and can pick her out. from this angle of course shes doendt look like the tallest, but it's all about persepective.

Theres another top sound of Nepal today: the sound of avalanches and rock slides. Iweirdly sound like distant gun fire. You hear it amd madly swing around to try and see where it is. It's spookily like trying to rubber neck to see a car crash. But also of course - you need to check your safety. We are also walking beside the rather impressive Khumbu Glacier - it is quite something to see and again be enveloped by the glory of the Himalayas. We can also see mountain peaks above 7000m that sit in Tibet. We really are amoungst it.

And just like that, Courts and I decend into Gorakshep - late. Later than we would like. I think theres been a decision made. Courts and I won't attempt EBC until tomorrow, when we are well feed, warm and renewed. Ann will do it this afternoon with Kumar. Poor Kumar. Now he has to do it twice.

#KumarsAGun

Day #7 - Today sucked balls

simonehawkins — Sat, 5 Oct 2019 19:19:00 GMT

Dingboche (4410m) > Loboche (4910m)

The dulcet tones of the Himalaya - TOP 3:

Cows / Yak Bells

Helicopters (50/50 Rescue / Extremelly cashed up tourists)

The sound of people hucking up spit and phlem

These sounds keep me going. Todays hard. Like REALLY hard. We start on the same track as our muppet adventure yesterday, but go higher. The weather is stunning. We really have been blessed. We're slowly being enveloped by the Himalayas. And it's both comforting and imposing. Kumar tells us that after the initial climb, it wil be flat for hours.... Ummmmmmmm he means 'Napali flat'. Which atually means some ups and downs AND flat. The ups and down at sea level would not even warrant a mention, but at 4500m + they get the heart rate up. we've all managed to keep our oxygen level in the high 80s until toay and now we can see it dropping a point or two - but very healthy for us all.

With exception of mild headaches we've all managedto avoid altitude sickness to date. But I'm avoiding todays topic. Today sux balls. The morning is ok I guess, hard but doable, but why are all the big climbs in the afternoon when we are already tired. Kumar tries to get us to eat at lunch time every day, but it's too much. Yes I undertand that your body requires fuel to do these climbs but the food is sooooo heavy in Carbs it's hard to walk afterwards. BuT i manage to skip lunch or 'lunth' as Kumar says it and start the climb. Today is my 'Baranco Wall day' or worse. As Baranco wall looked bad on Kili but actually turned out to be easy - while this wasn't easy - it sucked balls. But I got there just in time for a very late 'lunth'.

#NepaliFlatIsNotAustralianFlat

Day #6 - Rancho Relaxo

simonehawkins — Fri, 4 Oct 2019 19:12:00 GMT

Dingboche (4410m) Rest Day

YAY another rest day. We all need it. But not before the obligatory walk above where we slept at. Early morning get up to guess what? Walk up a mountain! To assist with acclimitisation.

Courts and I quickly decide that because we don't have to walk the whole way up, we decide to pop ourselves on a warm rock and encourage the on-slaught of dedicated hikers passing us at 7am in the morning. Courts and I are like the two old guys from the Muppets. "you got this!" "Nearly there" "Kepp Going", and as soon as they are out of earshot - critique their outfits, etc. I can't beleive how un-prepared soem hikers are. Walking the Himalayas in light Nike run shoes etc - there are even people with their hair down for that perfact Insta shot. I'll prepare you now. You'll see photos of me raw, sweaty, unshowered for days on end but REAL and AUTHENTIC.

This is me.

I don't need to compete with anyone but myself.

We come down from our perch and have a hor chocolate in the sun at the local bakery. DELICIOUS. Thankyou Dingboche, we're renewed and refreshed.

#FeelingHopefull

Day #5 - Lady E shows her top

simonehawkins — Thu, 3 Oct 2019 19:03:00 GMT

Tengboche (3860m) > (Dingboche 4410m)

Today for some reason we've all woken up ful of beans. Considering yesterday was such a trudge we're all suprised we're all so upbeat. What was in our dinner last night?

We saw Everest walking out of Tengboche - YAY.

Then almost within a minute - we see her again. Hello Lady Everest. you really are beautiful. I actually feel like I could climb you right now. Wait! What was in my dinner last night? Thats just crazy talk. Anyway....... Today we gop above 4,000m and we loose the trees - we we're hoping to see some deer and mounatin goats - but no - only the usual pack horses and yaks etc.

This time at this altitude I've not noticed a change in sounds and senses. Maybe it was higher last time? Maybe 5,000m. Can't wait to notice those cahnges again. Todays hike is hard again, but the universe is with us, or maybe someone else. It's strange I'm walking alot of the day by myself, but I feel someone is beside me. Again...... waht was in our dinner last night?

Seriously though, I feel llike I know who it is, and it's been very comforting. And just like that we arrive in Dingboche in 'normal peoples time', must of been something in our dinner.

#ExtraJuiceInLastsNightsDinnerIsOk

Day #4 - Computer Says No

simonehawkins — Wed, 2 Oct 2019 18:55:00 GMT

Namche (3440m) > Tengboche (3860m)

Today starts with up... up.... up.... I've stopped asking Kumar how far and how long we are walking, as he's started saying things like 'for 'normal people' 4 hours' 'for you - 6 hours'. Yes. I'm the culprit. Ann and Courts are way ahead of me most days, which I feel bad about, but I also know my own pace and what I'm capable of. I know I can do this but slower than the average bear. Slow and steady they say especially when altitude is in the mix. Today we walked through temperate forrest, something like the Dandenongs minus the massive ferns and gums. It IS interesting Kumars version of FLAT walking. Basically this could mean anything from flat to many ups and downs and INCLUDE some flat walking.

So I've stopped asking about this as well.

Courts is the opposite. She needs to know how we are tracking at every moment. I can't even begin to decisbe the scenary we are are viewing minute by minute. Lush green and wet underfoot wet with light rain and mushy mud with horse, yak, donkey and cow poo added in. YUMMY.

We were hoping to push through to Pangboche today but no, computer says no.

#EnoughOfWalkingInTheCloudsEnough

Day #3 - Rest Day Namche

simonehawkins — Tue, 1 Oct 2019 18:49:00 GMT

Namche (3440m) - Acclimitisation Day

Just a short 40 minute walk up to Everest Look-up and visist the museum. Start out at 7:30am - a few hikers out, it reasonalbly clear, but as we walk we see the clouds start to fold in. Arriving at the top the scenary is breathtaing (of course). and filled with a melting pot of nationalities. But mostly we've been spoilt by pur own Nepalese guide Kumar. Who I've been joking with the past 3 days about him being a "celebrity"....... As he stops to say hello to may paople along the way. In the off climbimg season, he's a well known folk singer. He's got his own songs and video clips.... I know, I've seen them BLESS. Very Impressive.

First hot shower today since I left home. Just sayin' things were getting a bit fresh, but they are going to get fresher afer here. Not sure when we'll get hot water again, and the cold showers are beyond icy.

#FellingRefreshedAndPositiveInNepal

Day #2 - Semi-charmed kinda Hike

simonehawkins — Mon, 30 Sep 2019 18:36:00 GMT

Phakding (2610m) > Namche (3440m)

Todays supposed to be nasty. Todays supposed to be long. With alot of ups. Oh-ooooo what the absolute hell was I thinking. On the itinery this day was described as 'Short Trekking' day. Liar Liar pants on fire. I'm learning quickly not to rely heaviliy on descriptors here. Todays theres 3 checkpoints along the way that Kumar sees us through, 3 permits sortred each. I'm feeling tired. I shouldn't. I'm slowing considerably. Seriously Simone, you need to get a wriggle on. Ok, use a walking pole. Just the one. Oh cool - lunch-time yay! More vege fried rice. Delicious. More Aussies at lunch from Sydney, they picked my Melbourne accent not really sure what that means. Oh double YAY this lunch spot as a western toilet. Made my day. And yet the next part of the day sux. Uphill (imagine that) like really NO flat surfaces. Climb over that tree root, over that rock, mind the yak, cow, and donkey poo and keep calm and hug a panda (as the sign said showing a red Panda on one part of the trek today).

I'm slowing, I haven't seen Ann or Courts now for a few hours, Kumar looks jittery, theres one checkpoint left and he'll need to get the permits ahead to Ann and Courts. So that's it - I'm walking through cloud now, by myself. Joy. Kumar says he'll come back after he gets the girls through the checkpoint. He's gone just over an hour and a half. Phew. I need someone to kick my butt to get to Namche. He does this by not talking but walking just in my eyeline, but it works, I made it. And of COURSE our hotel is right on the top ropw - so more stairs. Of course our room, is on the top level. But ensuite and western toilet, and the promise of a hot shower and rest day tomorrow.

#LocveHateYouRightNowNepal

Day #1 - Old Spice Nepal Style

simonehawkins — Sun, 29 Sep 2019 19:19:00 GMT

Kathmandu (1400m) > Phakding (2610m)

OK early start for the day, after a cold shower last night, but it's here... we're about to set off.

We're on a bus

We're in an Airport

We're on bus

We're on a plane

We're off a plane (we didn't go anywhere)

We're on the tarmac

We're on a bus

We're in an Airport

We're on a bus (again)

We're in a helicopter

We're now trekking in the dark with our headtorches on....

Yep, today we were in an 'Old Spice' ad, without the good looking man on a horse, or ,\maybe there was one..... I just didn't see this in the dark.

It's been a big day, our guide Kumar, has een brilliant, neotiating Kathmandu Airport would of been a nighmare without him. All flights we're cancelled from about 10am. Literally whilst we were sitting on the 14 seater. So we'd been given a lolly and cotton wool for our ears, all three of us in prime seats on the left hand side (for views of Everest) but no! the weather changed, and we are off the plane, but NOT before I had a chit chat with the co-captain and suggested we just had a sit-oin until the weather cleared. Didn't work. So we are on the atrmac where the 'very to cool for school' Nepalese Co-Captain tells me he learnt to fly at Moorabbin Aitrport, living in Mordialloc whilst training. Love it. Soooooo back in the airport, we made some new friends. Dutch, Norweigen, Americans and Hawaians. All strandard like us. And then a plan hatched. If we combined our buying power, we could "charter" 1 or two helicopters to get to Lukla........ Hmmmmmmm We'd already met a number of people that were strandard there from the day before........ so we're now in cometetion with them for a flight as well........ ok........ Let's hire Helicopters!!!!!!!! We had the perfect number..... 10 people - 7 Hikers and 3 Guides - PERFECT! A ridiculous amount of $$$$ later - and we all "Got to the Choppper"! Views are outastnding of course, by this stage, and after an hour on a Helicopter we touch down in Lukla. YAY. Late lunch and then Hike. Not before finding our headtorches. Big Day. And 3 hours later and alot of stairs we arrive in Phakding. No hot water, but ensuite bathroom and a western toilet. HAPPY DANCE.

#WelcomeToNepal

Day #10 - Reeth > Catterick Village (?)2

simonehawkins — Mon, 13 Aug 2018 06:29:00 GMT

Day #9 - Keld > Reeth (?)

simonehawkins — Sun, 12 Aug 2018 06:23:00 GMT

Grouse - today is grouse :)

Day #8 - Kirkby Stephen > Keld (?)

simonehawkins — Sat, 11 Aug 2018 06:20:00 GMT

Car'n! Look at all those cairns!

Day #7 - Orton > Kirkby Stephen (?)

simonehawkins — Fri, 10 Aug 2018 06:17:00 GMT

Day #6 - Bampton > Orton (12 miles)

simonehawkins — Thu, 9 Aug 2018 06:09:00 GMT

Shap Abbey - the last abbey to be founded in England in 1199.

Walking out of Bampton, and after a lovely evening with some people I've met along the way, I make my way down to the glorious ruin of Shap Abbey. It's nestled snuggled in a little dip in the valley - seemingly with it's own weather as well, it's here I realise I've gone from Winter to Summer in less than 24hours and now need 50+ sunscreen.

Todays walk is finally going to be kinder on the soles of my feet. Most of todays walk will be on soft grass! No more rocks for my ankles to cope with and hopefully less agony for my well established blisters. Whoop whoop!

There's heaps to see along the way, ancient stone circles etc and a cairn called 'Robin Hoods Grave' - it's not apparently - but still interesting.

I walk the rest of the way (more or less) on very soft ground and my feet are terribly thankful!

It's not long before I hit town and see the chocolate shop! Yaaaay! I go for a look and weirdly and quickly decide that I require a cider rather than chocolate! Lucky for me - I'm staying in a pub tonite! Yippee!!!!!

Day #5 - Patterdale > Bampton (11 miles)

simonehawkins — Wed, 8 Aug 2018 05:59:00 GMT

'Oh the Lake Districts lovely. Lets go there. We can eat scones. They do great scones in 1927' Doctor Who

Doctor Who you were right about the scones, although I can only comment on the 2018 ones.... plenty of the places I've stayed may of even had nice freah and warm ones on offer on my arrival. Delightful!

And.... I WISH I was inside and eating scones and jam right now.... instead I'm stomping it to Glenridding... no, this village isn't on the C2C path, but, it's home to a Steam Boat transport company. Yep. I've decided to take a slight short cut today and travel up Ullswater Lake to Pooley Bridge rather than walk it. It's freezingggggg! The weather has turned to a moody grey with clouds that look like are about to burst. And as soon as I take a seat on the open stern.... people start moving into the centre (covered part). I last about 15 minutes before my teeth start to chatter of their own accord.... and my windbreaker is ashaned to call itself that. I'm frozen! The scenary is now obscured by the rain coming in sideways so I move under cover.

The rest of the passengers look at me like I'm a (wet & soggy) looney - but I am just trying to feel and see the whole thing. The cold journey takes a bit over an hour to Pooley Bridge - just when the heavens decide to REALLY dump their contents. Double bagged with my windbreaker and large rain coat, gloves, and several warm layers below - I head into town.

It's a quick stroll - and before long the sunshine arrives to heat my personal sauna up to maximum humidity. Shedding some layers I realise theres a food and wine festival in the village! Whoop whoop! It's 11am right?! I can have a glass... or 2 or 3 right?? So I do.... and find a scone to pair my Pinot Grigio with... Noice.

The next stretch is a bit hilly - and the wines are not helping me navigate at all - but I get there... finally... and have a post wine late arvo nap in the sun (accidentally!)

Ahhhhh bed will be lovely tonite.

Day #4 - Grasmere > Patterdale (8 miles)

simonehawkins — Tue, 7 Aug 2018 04:54:00 GMT

I tried to grab the fog.... But I mist.....

Soooo it's NOT raining..... but is that low hanging cloud I see? Today brings with it the ominous knowledge that I'll be climbing the biggest mountain of the hike.

Hell. It's Helvellyn.

So I start out on the climb to Grisedale Tarn. It's quite hard to see and I don't see too many other hikers about... hmmmm maybe I should of checked to see if this was safe enough?

It's cold. I have 4 layers on.... maybe I should add another? Nah - don't stop - you'll never start again.

So I climb.... up and up 950m in fact, my head diwn the entire time watching my boots as there's nothing to see more than about 2 metres from me anyway with the fog.

And I'm there. My own personal sauna suit isn't switched on high today - it's just a medium steam. What a shame about the fog though! There are only 2 other people here who quickly tell me they werent expecting anyone else given the 'dangerous' weather. Opps. Should of checked that! Anyway... we decide to walk 'strding edge' together after that - best we all watch out for one another....

Striding edge is a knife edge walk along a ridge - and again - shame about the fog.... however - I couldn't get scared about what I couldn't see... or could I? Just as we were coming to the cloud lifted..... Shizzers! I'm not too sure how I would of gone walling that in clear view!!!!

Phew

Time to find my way down to Patterdale with my nerves in tact.

And I'm down. That was suprisingly quick... so I decide to do a little detour and sit by the lake at Glenridding the next little village along. Breathing in the lake air and enjoying the sunshine thats decided to make an arvo appearance I am brought to quick attention by the 2 fighter planes that zoom through the valley in a deafening announcement. Ok that was kinda cool - but serenity clearer broken.

So I head back to check my digs out at Patterdale and find that I'm in a 'Shephards Hut' - its like an old gypsy caravan - I love it! And quickly fall asleep watching the night sky. Ni night.

Day #3 - Rosthwaite > Grasmere (9.5 miles)

simonehawkins — Mon, 6 Aug 2018 04:15:00 GMT

'The loveliest spot that man hath found'

Sunshine? What is this? Where does it live? Not in the morning I'm in that's for sure! Today sees me start out with some dark clouds above me and a determination to ignore all the weather forecasts I've read for today. Nope! I'm not putting on my wind breaker or rain coat!

Skip forward an hour and I'm scrambling for the wind breaker.... The temperatures dropped and is that drizzle?

Walking along the Beck - Eagle Crag looks over it and kinda looks quite scary - but the weather is playing to this scene - surely your not a bad place.... Walking into the valley I start to see waterfalls and torrents of water coming down.... although... It's getting harder to see.... Must be crying.... There's water in my eyes...

I start ascending Lining Crag and when I say 'ascend' I mean rock climb my way up. About half way up I realise that my undies and everything else I'm wearing is wet through.... Maybe I should put my rain coat on. Ok. Yes. Do that. The temperature has dropped again - and I don't fancy hyperthermia!

Happy(ish) now in my own personal sauna suit, I make the final summit at Lining Crag. Eagle Crag looks like a pile of Peebles from here! See! No scariness here!

Some of the paths have now become their very own little Beck, with water streaming on and over my boots. Time to get a wriggle on!

So I head the Easdale Beck path and soon find myself in familiar surroundings..... I've been here before - several times.... Hello Grasmere! Hello Chemist where I can buy some more bandages! Hello civilisation! Who knew I was missing you so much? And to see that the hotel I was booked into was the biggest one in town and I was happy about that was even more surprising! What a gorgeous place - not to mention the gorgeous extras of population. Fabbo food Tonite people! Yay!

Ok I'm off to dry out my clothes and get myself ready to enjoy tourist town!

Day #2 - Ennerdale Bridge > Rosthwaite (15 miles)

simonehawkins — Sun, 5 Aug 2018 06:14:00 GMT

'where water fell in love with sunshine, this is where they kissed'

So today starts out around 17 degrees and a nice little decent towards Ennerdale waters. Noice, really noice. My feet really took a hammering yesterday, and at just 2 miles in I can feel a new hotspot on my left foot. What's going on? I'm wearing my tried and tested Ininji socks with the best hiking boots I've ever owned and ones that have never given me blisters! Ohhh well, more compeed applied... And I trudge on. The track along the water is uneven - but the gradients mostly flat - sooooooo yay! It's a big lake - so this takes me some time to get around it. Not many walkers out either - and that's kinda cool too.

As soon as I get around the lake the gradient starts to go up and up.... I now have to choose between the high road and the low road. My origional plan of course was to always take the high road - especially in the Lakes district... But my feet are telling me something different... So I take the low road and feel good about it... for now...

The moderate incline starts to pay out on my heels and I can feel the blisters breaking under their numerous coverings. Bum. There's nowhere to stop to get more dressings... I'll just have to wing it. I finally reach Black Sails YHA and stop for a bit and chat with some more C2Cers. They all look set to just hang out there.... Weird. And then I realise why... the next part sees a massive incline straight up and over the saddle. It's nuts, think 1000 steps X 5. Low Road my ar*e!

Anyway - I do it of course - and the track evens out for a bit - following the cairns - lucky for these actually, to date there's been little to no signage - I'm following some hand drawn maps in abook I have - I kid you not.

I get past all of these and the path descends and desends! Yippee! And it's not long until I hit Rosthwaite. 5:30pm in fact - I left at 8:15am - it's taken me 2 extra hours than I thought it would..... And then I really discover why... Taking off my boots and my socks I realise I've also taken off my heels. Ouchy wowow. I'll need to get these sorted for tomorrow and the following 13 days! Night all - I need to rock myself to sleep before I cry.