My Travels in India

Photos: Arunachal Pradesh - the lost Shangrila

s_roy_biswas — Fri, 13 Aug 2010 22:23:00 GMT

Situated at the eastern-most tip of India, this pristine untouched natures bio-sphere reserve has been in controversy more because of its vicinity with China & it's unethical claim over it, rather than for the stupendous natural beauty of the place

Photos: Kumaon - Uttarakhand

s_roy_biswas — Fri, 13 Aug 2010 15:56:00 GMT

The place is aptly called as the abode of the Himalayas as the destinations herein offer stupendous views of the magnificent Himalayan Peaks

Sikkim - Gangtok & around

s_roy_biswas — Sun, 16 Nov 2008 16:11:00 GMT

Sikkim is a small hilly state, bounded by vast stretches of Tibetan Plateau in the North, the adjoining area is called the Chumbi Valley of Tibet. It is bound by the Kingdom of Bhutan in the East, the newly formed Democratic Republic of Nepal in the West. Its accessibility is through the Siliguri corridor (also called the ‘Chicken neck area’) via Darjeeling (West Bengal) in the South. The State is stretched over 112 Kms. from North to South, and 64 Kms. from East to West. Nearest airport is Bagdogra which is about 125 Kms. from Gangtok, it takes about 4½ hours drive to reach there. The closest Railway Station for Gangtok is New Jalpaiguri which is again at a distance of around 124 Kms. and it takes around 4½ hours drive to reach Gangtok. Gangtok is also conveniently connected by road to Darjeeling, Kalimpong, Siliguri and all district headquarters within Sikkim. The best season to visit Sikkim is mid February to May and thereafter from mid September to November.

The word Sikkim is made up of two ‘Su’ (meaning new) & ‘Khyim’ (meaning palace or house with reference to the palace built by its first ruler Phuntsok Namgyal). The Tibetan name for Sikkim is “Denjong’ which means ‘Valley of rice’. According to the recorded history of the place, Sikkim was once ruled by local Chieftains of small villages inhabited by the Lepchas. Since the Lepchas did not have any script, there is no recorded history of Sikkim prior to 1642. The early history of Sikkim starts in the 13th century with the signing of a blood-brotherhood treaty between the Lepcha Chief Thekong Tek and Tibetan prince Khye-Bumsa at Kabi Lungtsok in North Sikkim. This follows the historical visit of three revered Lamas to Yuksam in 1641 in West Sikkim, where they consecrated Phuntsog Namgyal, a sixth generation descendent of Khye-Humsa as the first Chogyal of Sikkim, thus heralding the beginning of the Namgyal dynasty in Sikkim. As per the version of the locals, the Lepchas had an unrecorded understanding with the Namgyal and they moved towards the North Sikkim beyond present day Mangan (district headquarters of North District) and till date maintain an isolated existence.

The world’s third highest mountain, Kanchendzonga, which is regarded as the guardian deity of Sikkim, dominates the tiny Himalayan State with its awe-inspiring beauty and majesty. Sikkim is one of the 18 Bio-diversity hotspots in the world. The Sikkim Himalayas has a fragile ecosystem and boasts of more than 5000 varieties of flowering plants (Angiosperms), which is nearly one third of the total species of angiosperm found in the country. Apart from the flora the place is rich in fauna as well and boasts of many diverse & rare animals like the Red Panda (State animal), Snow leopard, many species deer’s etc. Sikkim is endowed with many physical features like the mountains, rivers, waterfalls etc. The state is divided into four districts which have been bifurcated as East, West, North & South Sikkim.

Gangtok, the capital of Sikkim is situated in the East District of the state and is one of the most important tourist destinations of Sikkim. There are many important tourist spots in and around it which can be visited over a period of two to three days and are detailed as follows –

Rumtek Monastery : is situated 24 kms from Gangtok. The original monastery was built by one of the rulers of Sikkim, however, His Holiness the late 16th Gyalwa Karampa built the new monastery, the Dharma Chakra Centre, which is said to be replica of the original one in Tibet.

Shanti view point : On way to the Rumtek Monastery, one passes through a small viewing gallery from where entire Gangtok is visible.

Jwaharlal Nehru Botanical Garden : It is located on way to Rumtek which has a small green house and also houses tropical & temperate plants.

Government Institute of Cottage Industries : It produces crafts in authentic Sikkimese designs from the whole state. Hand woven Tibetan carpets sprout dragon in natural dyes, Sikkimese-style tables called Choktse which are expertly carved and richly coloured along with bamboo decoration pieces and hand-made rice paper is also available here.

Institute of Tibetology : This organization is dedicated to furthering Tibetan studies, Buddhist philosophy and religion. It houses a rare collection of 30,000 books, Tantric documents, rare manuscripts written in gold on the bark of a poisonous tree, antique thangkhas and icons, all prized objects of art for the Buddhist world. A small book shop is also available at the site.

Do-Drul Chorten : One of the most important stupa of Sikkim, it was built by Trulshi Rimpoche, head of the Nyingmapa order of Tibetan Buddhism, in 1945. Inside the stupa, there are complete mandala sets of Dorjee Phurba (Bajra Kilaya), a set of Kan-gyur relics (holy books), Zung (mantras) and other religious objects. Around the chorten, there are 108 Mani Lhakor (prayer wheels). The chorten is surrounded by Chorten Lhakhang and Guru Lhakhang, where there are two huge statues of Guru Rimpoche (Guru Padsambhava). It is believed that the area was infested with demons and any person visiting the area was taken sick, Guru Padmsambhava exorcised the area of the demons and peace returned to the place.

Enchey Monastery : An important seat of the Nyingmapa order, the Enchey Monastery is built on the site blessed by Lama Druptob Karpo, a tantric master known for his power of flying. This 200 year old monastery has in its premises images of gods, goddesses and other religious objects.

Tashi View Point : About 8 km from Gangtok, this view point offers fascinating view of the majestic Mount. Kanchenjunga and Mount. Siniolchu.

Baksthnag Water falls - Just beyond the Tashi view point on way leading towards Mangan is a small but beautiful waterfall.

Permanent flower show & Ridge park : Just above the township of Gangtok, is a very specialized garden. There are a variety of flowering plants kept inside the herbarium for which a fee of Rs.10/- per head is charged for maintenance & up-keep. There are two counters which sell the orchids and other local plants.

Hanuman tok : It is a temple dedicated to Lord Hanuman which is situated almost 5 Kms. from the city centre and is maintained by the Indian army.

Ganesh tok : Situated at an altitude of 6500 feet, this small temple is dedicated to Lord Ganesha. The temple offers panoramic view of the Gangtok township.

Himalayan Zoological Park: Situated just opposite to the Ganesh tok through a 3 Kms. road stretch which culminates in a cemented/kuccha road from where one has to trudge to see the unique & endangered animals like the Red Panda & Himalayan Snow leopard etc.

Excursions around Gangtok

TSOMGO (alt. 3,780m, 38 km from Gangtok) : The literal meaning of Tsomgo is the source of the lake in Bhutia language (‘TSO’ means ‘lake’ and ‘MGO’ means ‘head’). This 1 km long lake is about 15 m deep and in shape of oval. It is considered extremely sacred by the local people. This placid lake remains frozen during the winter months.

Sikkimese folk-lore tells the story of how Tsomgo initially at Laten, several km away from the present Tsomgo (lake) came to take present position : An old woman, one night dreamt that the lake at Laten was to shift to Tsomgo and she and her two other herder friends were warned, to leave the place as soon as possible. The old lady hastened to inform her friends but they paid no heed. In turn, she hurriedly milked her dri (female yak) and poured the milk on the ground, as an auspicious sign and left the place for Lhachungkar near Thegu. Just before leaving, she happened to see an old lady with srikinly white hair and of fair complexion who was carding yarn, entered Tsomgo where immediately the earth turned into water and formed this Tsomgo (lake). The two yak herders are believed to be sub-merged in the lake along with their herd of yaks. The locals will tell you that whenever the lake is sullied it cries like a little child which has been heard by them. Hard to believe?

KHYONGNOSIA FALLS : Just before reaching Tsomgo lake one passes through a small but beautiful waterfall.

NATHULA : 56 km from Gangtok is the Nathula pass at an alt. of 14,200 feet, bordering between India and China in the Tibetan plateau. It is one of the highest motorable roads and richly covered by various species of Alpine Flora and Fauna. It is also home to the famed Baba Mandir dedicated to memory of an army jawan who is known to defend the nation even after his demise known as Baba Harbhajan Singh. All the army units posted in the area hold him in the highest of esteems.

ELEPHANT LAKE: Beyond Nathula on way to Tukla one passes through a valley rich is local flora and a lake saddled in the valley below which is shaped like an Elephant.

TUKLA : Is a small outpost where Baba Harbhajan Singh is reported to have departed for his heavenly abode, a small temple is dedicated to him at the site. The area is resplendent with verdant & virgin alpine vegetation.

(To see related photographs kindly check out the photo album titled Sikkim)

Gallery: Sikkim

s_roy_biswas — Sat, 15 Nov 2008 23:18:00 GMT

One of worlds pristine biodiversity hotspots coupled with glorious Bhuddhist Monasteries dotting its' landscape, Sikkim is truly a riot of colours

Pushkar - the holy lake of Bramha

s_roy_biswas — Thu, 30 Oct 2008 17:12:00 GMT

Pushkar is another of the nondescript townships in Rajasthan, which is one of the oldest surviving Hindu holy places. Pushkar is also referred to as ‘Tirth Raj’ meaning thereby as ‘King of all Tirths’, it is also referred to as the ‘Adi Tirth’ also. The literal meaning of this Hindi word ‘Tirth’ means ‘place of pilgrimage’ and word ‘Adi’ means ancient and this adjective is well meaning, as the origin of Pushkar is associated with Lord Bramha and dates of its actual founding is unknown. However, existence of Pushkar as a ‘Tirth’ can be traced to the ancient holy Hindu scriptures of both Mahabharata and Ramyana. Whereas, in the Mahabharata the place finds reference in context with the King Yudhistir’s travels wherein he is to take bath in the holy pond, in Ramayana this place finds reference in context with Vishwamitra’s penance at this place as also to that of Apsara Menakas’ having bathed in this holy pond. In another ancient Hindu scripture of Vamhana Purana it is stated that ‘Bhakt Pralhada’ visited the holy place called Pushkaranya or Pushkar forest. The description found in Mahabharata regarding the existence of dense forest in the area corroborates the earlier description in this Purana. Pushkar, thus has been in existence since time immemorial.

Pushkar is situated about 14 Kms. from Ajmer and a large number of local taxis, shared taxis and busses ply from Ajmer for Pushkar. Ajmer is also well connected by train from all around, particularly from New Delhi, Jaipur, Ahmedabad, Jodhpur & Mount Abu. The distance from New Delhi is around 394 Kms. and there are a large number of regular as well as express trains for Ajmer from Delhi and the journey takes about an average of 8 hours or less in express trains like Shatabdi. There are also regular bus services available from Delhi run by the government owned Rajasthan Tourism Development Corporation in Luxury category & Rajasthan Road Transport Corporation Ltd. running ordinary busses. Apart from the government run bus services, there are a large number of private operators who offer quality services like Srinath Travels & Parsavanth Travels etc. The road being of very good quality, the journey time varies to around 9 hours run on an average by road. There are a variety of places to stay at Ajmer that suits every pocket and in the government run sector, Hotel Khadim is good. With the tourist influx into Pushkar in recent past, the hotel sector has improved tremendously in the Puskar itself. However, one has to have advance booking (made well in advance) in case you want to visit Pushkar during the peak tourist season i.e. from October to February, especially so during the famed Pushkar Fair, which is held during end October & early November. Initially, this fair was meant for trading cattle by villagers from around Rajasthan, but with the advent of tourist influx into the area, it has now taken shape of a full blown tourist extravaganza coupled with this age old tradition. The details of places to stay etc. can be viewed at www.ajmer.nic.in/pushkar/ .

Mythologically, the origin of Pushkar is attributed to Lord Bramha, who is considered to be the creator of this world as per Hindu mythology. The only temple dedicated to Lord Bramha in the whole world exists at Pushkar (meaning born due to flower) and dates back to the 14^th Century. As regards the creation of Pushkar there are many anecdotes associated but there are two main ones – (i) That when the demon Vajra Nabha killed Brahma's children, he in turn struck him with his weapon which is a lotus flower. Vajra Nabha died upon impact and the petals of the lotus fell at three places. One of them is Pushkar, where a lake sprung into being. Brahma is supposed to have performed sacrifice at this lake on Kartik Purnima (the full moon day of the Kartik month), hallowing the place; (ii) It is said that gods released a swan with lotus in its beak and let it fall on earth, where Lord Brahma would perform a grand yagya. The place where lotus fell was so called Pushkar. As per Hindu beliefs a dip in the waters of Pushkar and worship at his temple ensures salvation and the sins of those pilgrims is washed away by hold pond water. So thousands flock to Pushkar, to observe the ritual on kartik Purnima or on any of the four days preceding it. The mystical water is also believed to cure skin diseases, making Pushkar the Lourdes of the East.

Pushkar is one of the five dhams of Hindu beliefs and boasts of 5 (Five) principle temples namely – Bramha Temple, Savitri Temple, Varah Temple, Mahadeva Temple and Ramavaikunth Temple along with many small temples sprinkled all around and there are also 52 small & big ghats (place of taking bath) dotting the holy pond all around. Photography is strictly prohibited inside most of the temple precincts and photographing bathing public is also not advisable. The Bramha Temple stands on a high plinth with the Marble steps leading up to it. A silver turtle is set on the floor facing the Sanctum-Sanctorum. Around the turtle the Marble floor is inset with hundreds of silver coins much of which is worn out and year etc. not legible. Coins engraved with donors names are also embedded in the walls. Peacocks adorn the temple walls as they are supposed to be the vehicle of lord Brahma's consort Saraswati. A small image of the milkmaid Gayatri, flanks the four-faced image of lord Brahma and is called Chaumurti The sanctuary has silver doors inside a carved marble gateway. Savitri temple is situated on a hill top and can be accessed by foot which is about an hour’s walk from the main Pushkar township. According to another legend, sage Parasara is said to have been born here. His descendants, called Parasara Bramhins are the historical custodians of the famed Jeenmata Temple and have been looking after upkeep of this temple over the last 1000 years. These traditional Parasara and Pushkarna Bramhins perform the traditional Puja at the temples & ghats around here and some of them carry fancy names like Baba1008 etc.

Gallery: Meenal - the mini Khajuraho

s_roy_biswas — Thu, 4 Sep 2008 15:39:00 GMT

A very interesting site in Chittaurgarh district of Rajasthan

Meenal - The Mini Khajuraho

s_roy_biswas — Thu, 4 Sep 2008 15:24:00 GMT

Rajasthan circuit, which encompasses the Western India tourist circuit, boasts of some of the most sought after tourist destinations of this sector. Much have been written about the major destinations like Jaipur, Ajmer, Mount Abu, Jodhpur, Jaisalmer etc., but the area is dotted with numerous resplendent & mesmerizing but nondescript destinations. Amongst them one is MENAL, which is about 90 Kms. from Chittaurgarh in Rajasthan.

To visit Menal, one will have to travel upto Bhilwara or Chittaurgarh. It is advisable that one visits Chittaurgarh as this Fort city boasts of a Rajput fort whose past is replete with historical characters like Rajput King Prithvi Raj Chauhan, Meera Bai (whose Bhakti towards Lord Krishna was absolute & amazing and her poetical renditions in love with Lord Krishna are sung with equal fervour by devouts all over northern India). There are other historical anecdotes associated with this place like the jauhar by famed beauty & Queen Rani Padmini to protect her honour from Allaudin Khilji, who had laid siege on this fort for her famed beauty. There are several such instances of valor displayed by Rajput Kings & queens against face of adversity and this place holds a place of pride amongst the Rajputs for its legacy. Interestingly this is the only fort that is referred to in masculine gender by the local Rajputs of Rajasthan & around.

Chittaurgarh is accessible both by road & rail. It is situated around 600 odd Kms. from Delhi and regular train services on the Udaipur line is available with journey time of 10 hours upwards. One can make stop-over at Ajmer also as all the trains passes through this holy place. Other than that there are a plethora of bus services available from Delhi and one can even take a chance by standing at Dahula Kuan from where the busses pick up travelers without booking. Apart from the Rajasthan Transport Corporation busses, a large number of private operators like ‘Srinath Travels’, ‘Parsavnath Travels’ etc. also operate busses both of ordinary type as well as deluxe ones. The busses which start from Delhi at around 7.00 P.M. in the evening, reach Chittaurgarh by 9.00 A.M. the next day. Therefore, the visitors have the whole day to themselves for sightseeing etc. The nearest airport is at Udaipur, which is about 120 Kms. from Chittaurgarh. The best period to visit Rajasthan in between late October to early March. For information one can log onto www.rajasthan.gov.in/CHITTAURGARH.SHTM .

Menal is also known as the "mini khajauraho", blessed with nature’s beauty, this picnic spot is situated on the Chittaur - Bundi road and is famous for the ancient temples, waterfalls and beautiful forests. The name Menal is derived from Maha Nal (great gorge). This temple complex was built by Someshvar Chhahamana and his queen Suhavadevi of the Sakhambari dynasty during the 11th century A.D (circa). The construction of the main structural group, on the left side of the gorge, is credited to the king while the single temple with a detached monastery across the river is associated with the queen, albeit the foundation inscription has been lost now. However, the fame of place grew during reign of King Prithviraj Chauhan, as it was his favourite mountain retreat during the scorching Rajasthan summers. For this he had built a palace on the banks of the Menal river which runs over granite slabs before finally plunging into a gorge over 122 meters deep. When it rains, the water flows over the granite rocks and plunges into a gorge 100 feet below into a pool and then proceeds onwards.

The 11th century Mahanaleshvara temple is a perfect example of the western Indian style of stone temple architecture. The entrance is embellished with a seated stone lion, and there are number of guardian deities carved on protruding panels in the walls. The inner sanctum is dominated by projecting balconies while the roof is a pyramidal array of ribbed and finely carved stone. The entrance to the mansion is via a two storied gateway carved with images of the gods Ganesha and Bhairava. The square courtyard beyond the entrance houses a huge Shiva temple of stone, built in the ancient Hindu style with a carved pagoda and pillars. The walls of the temple are carved with motifs of Hindu deities and various other themes, interspersed with images of elephants. Of special mention are the images of Shiva and Parvati which form the chief subject of the engravings. Shiva and Parvati are depicted in various postures and surrounded by dancers, musicians, lesser gods and animals. Halfway up the pagoda is a large stone lion. A number of smaller ruined temples lie around the Shiva temple. Though the main shrine dedicated to Lord Shiva is built in sand-stone, brick-work is visible wherever the surface of the tower covering of the smaller temples (perhaps even older) has peeled off. Before the main temple of Mahanala is a Nandi enclosure, solidly built, but barely sufficient to accommodate the bull. There are a number of well crafted pillars scattered all around the central courtyard of the temple complex. One can also walk down the causeway upto the base of gorge below where the air is cool & refreshing and trickle of water falls continuously throughout the year.

Gallery: Agra Fort

s_roy_biswas — Wed, 6 Aug 2008 23:26:00 GMT

One of the best demonstration of Mughal Architecture at its zenith

Agra Fort - Mughal emperors residence

s_roy_biswas — Wed, 6 Aug 2008 23:26:00 GMT

Agra Fort

Agra Fort is located on the right bank of the river Yamuna in the city of Agra in Uttar Pradesh. It has also been declared as UNESCO World Heritage site. It is one of the most historically important strong-hold of the Mughals, containing a intircately decorated buildings encompassing the imposing Mughal style of art and architecture. It was constructed by the third Mughal emperor Akbar on the remains of an ancient site known as Badalgarh. Sikandar Lodi (1487-1517) was the first Sultan of Delhi to shift his capital from Delhi to Agra. After Sikandar Lodi who died in 1517, his son Ibrahim Lodi held the fort for 9 years until he was defeated and killed in the battle of Panipat in 1526. Humayun not only captured the fort but also seized a vast treasure, which included the world famous ‘Koh-i-noor’ diamond as well. Humayun was coronated here in 1530. After Humayun’s defeat at Bilgram in 1540 by the hands of Sher Shah of the Suri dynasty occupied Agra fort and garrisoned it.

Akbar arrived in Agra in 1558. He ordered the renovation of the fort with red sandstone and it was completed over a period of 8 years (1565-1573). The fort has been built on a semi-circular plinth plan, which is surrounded by a 21.4 m high fortification wall on all sides. Double ramparts have been provided here with broad massive circular bastions at regular intervals. There are four gates on its four sides, one of the gates was called “khizri-gate” (the water gate) which once opened to the Yamuna river front, where ghats (quays) were provided, but as on date the rive has gradually shrunk away from the fort. The fort spreads over an area of about 94 acres of land. Abul Fazl, a court historian of Akbar, had recorded in his memoirs that 5000 buildings had been built in Bengali and Gujarati style. Most of these buildings have now disappeared. Shah Jahan himself demolished some of these in order to make room for his white marble palaces. Later, the British destroyed most of the buildings for raising barracks. Hardly 30 Mughal buildings have survived on the southeastern side. Of these, the Delhi-Gate, Akbari-Gate and ‘Bengali-Mahal’, are representative of buildings raised during the reign of Akbar.

After the reign Akbar, his successor Jahangir mostly resided at Lahore and in Kashmir, though he visited Agra regularly and lived in the fort. The next in line of accession to the Mughal throne, Shah Jahan was a great builder and he raised white marble palaces here. He also built three white marble mosques in it: Moti-Masjid, Nagina-Masjid and Mina-Masjid. Built during the reign of Shah Jahan, the Diwan-i-Aam (Hall of Public Audience) was used for durbars, formal receptions in which the emperor would conduct state business while ceremoniously enthroned. Though Shah Jahan had formally transferred his capital to Delhi, in 1638, he continued to live here. But after his death, Agra lost its grandeur. Aurangzeb remained busy in the regional conflicts and wars. Yet, time and again, he lived here and held the durbar. Shivaji came to Agra in 1666 and met Aurangzeb in the Diwan-i-Khas. As fate would have it, Aurangzeb imprisoned Shah Jahan, his own father, in the fort for 8 years until he died in 1666 and was buried in the Taj Mahal. The barcades around the two gates and on the riverside were built by Aurangzeb to strengthen its defenses. Aurangzeb died in 1707 and 18th century history of Agra Fort is a saga of sieges and plunder during which it was held by the Jats, the Marathas and finally the British captured it from the latter in 1803.

Agra Fort is entered today at the south end, through a low outer wall and gate built by Aurangzeb. Visitors then pass in succession through two of Akbar's gates, the Amar Singh and the Akbari, before finally gaining admittance to the fort proper. The original entrance to the fort was through the grander Delhi Gate in the west wall. The details of gates & buildings of Agra fort are detailed as follows –

Amar Singh Gate - The gate was originally tiled. Although the colorful tile has been lost, the inlay patterns remain in the stone into which they were set. For defensive reasons, this gate is placed perpendicular to the walls.

Akbari Gate - is the third and final gate which guards the south entrance to the fort. The gate pierces the fort's massive inner wall between these two protective towers, which still retain some traces of their original tiling.

Jahangiri Mahal - This palace takes its name from Jahangir, but was built by Akbar sometime between 1560 and 1580. Lacking ground-story windows, it might have been used by the royal ladies. The large bowl in front was carved in 1611 from a single block of porphyry; it is variously said to have been used as a cistern, or as Jahangir's bathtub.

Muthamman Burj - On the east side of the fort, this octagonal pavilion looks out across the Jumna River and countryside, and downstream to the Taj Mahal. It is said to be the tower where Shah Jahan was imprisoned.

Courtyard - This is one of two courtyards flanking the Khass Mahal. Its curving Bengali style roof imitates the shape of Bengali marriage palanquin and symbolic of the unmarried status of Jahanara, sister of Shah Jahan. The palace overlooks the Jumna river to the east.

Khass Mahal - or Private Pavilion dates back to 1636. This was probably a multifunction room that could have been used for various kinds of gatherings, or even for sleeping. It has ornate and intricate work on its marble pillars and bases.

Diwan-i-Khass - or Hall of Private Audience was built in 1635 and was used to receive heads of state, ambassadors, and other diplomatic visitors to the Mugal court. The open area below the terrace level constitutes a garden, the Anguri Bagh (Grape Garden). Underneath the terrace is a barrack of rooms and chambers including hot-weather retreats and possibly a dungeon whose entry is now blocked.

Diwan-i-Aam - The Hall of Public Audiences, made of red sandstone, was constructed by Shahjahan. It is here the emperor met officials and commoners and listened to the petitioners. The women of the palace could watch the court without being seen by others from the pavilion through jali (lattice) screens. The open sided, cusped arched hall (64x23m) built of plaster on red stone, is very impressive. The throne alcove of richly decorated white marble completed after 7 years work in 1634 was used to house the famous Peacock Throne, later shifted to Delhi by Aurangazeb and was finally carried away to Iran.

Nagina Masjid - or the gem mosque is a private mosque raised by Shah Jahan with typical cusped arches for ladies of the court. There is Mina bazar for the royal ladies to buy things from the marble balcony beneath the Nagina Masjid.

Moti Masjid - near the Nagina Masjid is a perfectly proportioned pearl mosque built in white marble. This grand mosque has three domes in white marble raising their heads over the red sandstone wall.

Mina Masjid – was a small mosque built inside the fort next to the Diwan-i-Khas and is said to have been used by Shah Jahan during the time he was imprisoned in the fort.

Taj Mahal - Poetry in Stone

s_roy_biswas — Tue, 3 Jun 2008 23:32:00 GMT

Poetry in Stone - Taj Mahal

Taj Mahal is regarded as one of the eight wonders of the world, and is also a UNESCO World Heritage site . The Taj is the most beautiful monument built by the Mughals, built entirely of white marble. The Taj seems to glow in the light of the full moon. Taj Mahal was built as a mausoleum by Emperor Shah Jahan (died 1666 A.D.) in the memory of his dear wife and queen Mumtaz Mahal at Agra, India. It is an "sheer poetry in marble". The grave of queen Mumtaz Mahal is placed in the lower chamber which is now no longer open for public viewing. The grave of Shah Jahan was added to it later. The queen’s real name was Arjumand Banu. In the tradition of the Mughals, important ladies of the royal family were given another name at their marriage or at some other significant event in their lives, and that new name was commonly used by the public. Shah Jahan's real name was Shahab-ud-din, and he was known as Prince Khurram before ascending to the throne in 1628.

Taj Mahal was constructed over a period of twenty-two years and completed in 1648 A.D, employing twenty thousand workers. It is said that the construction was undertaken under master architect was Ustad ‘Isa, the renowned Islamic architect of his time who employed renowned craftsmen from all over the world. The mausoleum is a part of a vast complex comprising of a main gateway, an elaborate garden, a mosque (to the left), a guest house (to the right), and several other palatial buildings. The Taj is at the farthest end of this complex, with the river Yamuna behind it. The large garden contains four reflecting pools dividing it at the center. Each of these four sections is further subdivided into four sections and then each into yet another four sections. Like the Taj, the garden elements serve like Arabesque, standing on their own and also constituting the whole. The Taj stands on a raised, square platform (186 x 186 feet) i.e. 55 meter on each side, with its four corners truncated, forming an unequal octagon. The architectural design uses the interlocking arabesque concept, in which each element stands on its own and perfectly integrates with the main structure.

The main gateway (darwaza) is a monumental structure built primarily of marble and is reminiscent of Mughal architecture of earlier emperors. As one enters through Taj Mahal Gate, the calligraphy reads "O Soul, thou art at rest. Return to the Lord at peace with Him, and He at peace with you." Its central dome is fifty-eight feet in diameter and rises to a height of 213 feet. It is flanked by four subsidiary domed chambers. The four graceful, slender minarets are 162.5 feet each. The entire mausoleum (inside as well as outside) is decorated with inlaid design of flowers and calligraphy using precious gems such as agate and jasper (a form of opaque silica crystals). The main archways, chiseled with passages from the Holy Qur’an and the bold scroll work of flowery pattern, give a captivating charm to its beauty. The central domed chamber and four adjoining chambers include many walls and panels of Islamic decoration. There are four large towers each more than 40 meters tall, the minarets display Taj Mahal's penchant for symmetry. These towers are designed as working minarets, a traditional element of mosques. Each minaret is effectively divided into three equal parts by two working balconies that ring the tower. At the top of the tower is a final balcony surmounted by a chattri that mirrors the design of those on the tomb. The minaret chattris share the same finishing touches, a lotus design topped by a gilded finial. Each of the minarets was constructed slightly outside of the plinth, so that in the event of collapse, a typical occurrence with many such tall constructions of the period, the material from the towers would tend to fall away from the tomb.

The exterior decorations of Taj Mahal are among the finest to be found in Mughal architecture. As the surface area changes, a large pishtaq has more area than a smaller, the decorations are refined proportionally. The decorative elements were created by applying paint or stucco i.e binding material for building, or by stone inlays or by carvings. In line with the Islamic prohibition of the use of anthropomorphic forms, the decorative elements can be grouped into - calligraphy, abstract forms or vegetative motifs.

The calligraphy found in Taj Mahal are of florid thuluth script, created by Persian calligrapher, Ammant Khan, who signed several of the panels. The calligraphy is made by jade like silica material called jasper inlaid in white marble panels and the work found on the marble cenotaphs in the tomb is extremely detailed and delicate. Higher panels are written slightly larger for appropriate & even from viewing below. Throughout the complex, passages from the Quran have been used as decorative elements. Recent scholarship suggests that Amanat Khan chose the passages as with reference themes of judgment and other relevant quotes.

Abstract forms are used especially in plinth, minarets, gateway, mosque, jawab, and to a lesser extent, on the surfaces of the tomb. The domes and vaults of sandstone buildings are worked with incisions made on surface followed by filling up the same with paint to create elaborate geometric forms. White inlays are used in sandstone buildings and dark or black inlays on the white marbles. Mortared areas of marble buildings have been stained or painted dark and thus creating geometric patterns of considerable complexity.

Vegetative motifs are found at the lower walls of the tomb. They are white marble blocks that have been sculpted with realistic depictions of flowers and vines. The marble has been polished to emphasize exquisite detailing of these carvings. The dado frames and archway have been decorated with pietra dura inlays of highly stylised, almost geometric vines, flowers and fruits. The inlay stones are yellow marble, jasper and jade, leveled and polished to the surface of the walls.

The interior chamber of Taj Mahal steps far beyond traditional decorative elements. Here the inlay work is of precious and semiprecious put into the marble and polished to a glossy finish. The inner chamber is an octagon with the design allowing for entry from each face, though, only the south garden-facing door is used. The interior walls are about 25 metre high and topped by a "false" interior dome decorated with a sun motif. Eight pishtaq arches define the space at ground level. As with the exterior, each lower pishtaq is crowned by a second pishtaq about midway up the wall. The four central upper arches form balconies or viewing areas and each balcony's exterior window has an intricate screen or jali cut from marble. In addition to the light from the balcony screens, light enters through roof openings covered by chattris at the corners. Each chamber wall has been highly decorated with dado bas relief, intricate lapidary inlay and refined calligraphy panels, reflecting in miniature detail of the design elements seen throughout the exterior of the complex. The octagonal marble screen or jali which borders the cenotaphs is made from eight marble panels. Each panel has been carved through with intricate pierce work. The remaining surfaces have been inlaid with semiprecious stones in extremely delicate detail, forming twining vines, fruits and flowers.

Gallery: Fatehpur Sikiri

s_roy_biswas — Tue, 3 Jun 2008 19:36:00 GMT

Mughal Architecture

Fatehpur Sikri - An Emperors tribute

s_roy_biswas — Tue, 3 Jun 2008 19:30:00 GMT

Fatehpur sikri – an Emperor’s obeisance

Sikri is an very old settlement situated in the upper Vindhyachal ranges which is now almost eroded through the vagaries of nature over the eons. It was once situated on the banks of a large natural lake, which has now mostly dried up. It is a pre-historic site where some stone-age tools have been found alongwith Ochre painted Pottery which date back to 2nd Century B.C and its prolonged occupation by mankind is reflected in the Painted Grey Ware belonging to the 1200-800 B.C which have also been discovered from this region. Sikri finds mention in the Mahabharata as ‘Saik’. The present name is derived from combination of the city built by Akbar named as ‘Fathepur’ and added to this is the pre-historic village of Sikri, thus naming the place as ‘Fatehpur Sikri’.

Present day Fatehpur sikri is situated at a distance of 37 kms. from Agra is a city built predominantly in Red. This town was built by the Mughal Emperor, Akbar. He had planned this city as his capital but shortage of water compelled him to abandon the city. The fort is situated at 27° 05' N latitude and 77° 39' E longitude and has a mean altitude of 708 meters above sea level. Fatehpur Sikri has been declared as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

This place was first visited by the Mughal Emperor Babur during the battle of Khanwah when he fought with Rana Sangha during A.D. 1527 and mentioned it as ‘Sikri’ in his memoirs i.e Babur Nama. He is credited with laying the foundation of a garden and a Jal-Mahal surrounded by the lake-water, and a baoli (step-well) to commemorate his victory in the battle of Khanwah. However, thereafter the place came under Sher Shah Suri who had usurped the Mughal legacy for a brief period of time till Emperor regained his lost empire from him.

The present day Fatehpur Sikri was built by Emperor Akbar and legacy goes that he had no child. After receiving the blessings of Sufi Saint Salim Chisti, he was blessed with a male child who became the heir to his throne, he was named Salim (after the name of Sufi Saint Salim) who later become Emperor Jahangir. The tomb "Salim Chisti Ka Mazar" was built in honour of the Sufi saint in 1571 by him. Earlier it was built with red sand stone, but later converted into beautiful marble mauseleum. Akbar (1556-1605), for a period of 13 years, from 1572 to 1585, in his quest to honour the Sufi Saint Sheikh Salim Chishti, who resided here (in a cavern on the ridge), raised lofty buildings for his use, and houses for the public. Thus grew, a great city with charming palaces and institutions. Akbar gave it the name of Fathabad and which in later days came to be known as “Fathpur Sikri”.

At Fathepur Sikri one can find all Mughal institutions such as the ‘Ibadat-Khanah’, ‘Din-i-Ilahi’, ‘Tarikh-i-Ilahi’ , Jharokha-Darshan, the doctrine of Sulh-i-Kul and policy of liberal patronage to indigenous arts and literatures, were founded. It was also here that workshops of various handicrafts were established. Sikri was the first planned city of the Mughals. The sloping levels of the city were connected into terraces which were utilised for various complexes such as Jami masjid, Buland-Darwazah and tomb of Sheikh Salim Chishti; Khass Mahal, Shahi-Bazar, Mina-Bazar, the Panch-Mahal, Khwabgah, Diwan-i-Khass, Anup-Talao, Chaupar and Diwan-i-Am. The efficient system of drainage and water-supply adopted here suggest an extremely intelligent town-planning by the Mughal emperor. All these palaces were built of red sandstone in the beam-and-post order, and composed of pillars, ornamental arches, brackets-and-chhajjas, jharokhas, chhatris, chhaparkhats, chaukhandis and so on. The architecture of Fatehpur Sikri has inputs from all over the country especially artisans from Gujrat & Bengal were employed to do some exquisite work and influence of Hindu & Jain sculpture is also visible in many of the landmarks here. The layout of the city reflects that a conscious attempt had been made to produce rich spatial effects by the organizing the forms of buildings and using the open spaces around them.

Prime Attractions of Fatehpur Sikri

Buland Darwaza - meaning 'high' or 'great' gate in Persian. The Buland Darwaza is 53.63m high and 35 meters wide. Buland Darwaza is the highest gateway in the world and an astounding example of the Mughal architecture. It is built of red sandstone and inlaying of white marble. There is an inscription one on the monument which is a message from Lord Jesus advising his followers not to consider this world as their permanent home. The Buland Darwaza towers above the courtyard of the mosque. The Buland Darwaza is semi octagonal in plan and is topped by pillars and chhatris. Buland Darwaza echoes early Mughal design with simple ornamentation, carved verses from the Koran and towering arches. There are thirteen smaller domed kiosks on the roof, stylized battlement and small turrets and inlay work of white and black marble. On the outside a long flight of steps sweeps down the hill giving the gateway additional height. A Persian inscription on eastern archway of the Buland Darwaza records Akbar's conquest over Deccan in 1601 A.D.This gate can be approached from the outside by a 13-metre flight of steps which adds to its grandeur. The gate erected in 1602 AD to commemorate Akbar’s victory over Deccan and is the highest and grandest gateway in India and ranks among the biggest in the world.

Dargah Of Sheikh Salim Chisti - This Dargah was built in 1570. Here, childless women come for blessings of the saint. Even Akbar was blessed with three sons, when he came here. The lattice work in the Dargah is among the finest to be found any where in India.

The Jami Masjid - One of the largest mosques in India, Jami Masjid was built in 1571 AD. Inside, there is a vast congregational coutyard. To the right, at the corner, is the Jammat Khana Hall and next to this is the tomb of the royal ladies. To the left of the Jami Masjid is the Stone Cutters’ mosque, the oldest place of worship at Fateh Pur Sikri. It is entered through the eastern entrance known as the Buland Darwaza.

Palace of Jodha Bai - is the largest and the most important building in the royal palace, named after Akbar’s Rajput wife, Jodha Bai. This spacious palace was assured of privacy and security by high walls and a 9 metre guarded gate to the east. The architecture is a blend of styles with Hindu columns and Muslim cupolas and has a winter & summer palace placed diametrically opposite to each other, separated by a vast courtyard with a central vault for Tulsi plant. Just outside the main gate is the personal kitchen of Jodhabai where the jali work and lattice above it has sculptures replete with designs of Hindu women ear rings.

Sunehra Makann - is the palace of Akbar’s Christian wife, Mariam-Uz-Zamani. This two-storeyed building is richly adorned by gold murals in Persian style. The beams have inscriptions of verses by Akbar’s brother, Faizi.

Panch Mahal - To the right of Sunehra Makan is the elegant, airy 5 storeyed pavilion, the Panch Mahal. Each floor over here is smaller than the one below and it rises to a single domed kiosk on top supported by four columns providing a magnificent view of the city and its environs.

Diwan-I-Am - or the Hall Of Public Audience. This hall was also used for celebrations and public prayers. Beautiful jali screen on either sides separated the ladies attending the court.

Diwan-khana-I-khaas - or Hall Of Private Audience, in its centre stands a profusely carved column supporting a colossal-bracketed capital. Four narrow causeways radiate from the centre and run to each corner of the chamber. It is believed that Akbar’s throne occupied the circular space over the capital and the corners were assigned to the four ministers.

Turkish Sultana’s House - This palace is attributed to the third wife of Emperor Akbar and to make her feel comfortable, the geometrical pattern on the walls and ceiling are reminiscent of Central Asian carvings in wood.

The Treasury - or Ankh Michauli, once believed to have been used for playing the game, comprising three rooms each protected by a narrow corridor which were manned by guards.

Daulat khana-I-khas - Located in the corner to the left is the emperor’s private chamber. It has two main rooms on the ground floor. One housed Akbar’s library while the larger room was his resting area. On the first floor is the Khwabgah or the bed-chamber. It was connected with the Turkish Sultana’s house, the Panch Mahal, Mariam’s House and the Jodha Bai’s palace by corridors.