India

luggage rack slumber

rymaher — Fri, 7 Mar 2008 23:04:00 GMT

A couple of weeks back, while I was still traveling with Noah, Kyle, and Haley, we were making our way from the east coast of Southern India to the west. The longest stretch of this venture was the train from Madurai to Kovallam. When we tried to book our tickets we found out that the reserved seating was sold out. However, we were anxious to get to the west coast and Haley needed to be in Mumbai by the end of February. So we decided that we would get unreserved seating and then get to the train really early to secure our seats for the 12 or 13 hour trip. Brilliant plan.

As the train arrived and before it even stopped, crowds, serious hordes, of people swamped the train. Before the doors opened people were flying through windows to secure a precious seat. The four of us were a bit stunned initially, but soon realized some action was necessary if we were to even get on the train. We nudged our way in one of the doors and Haley and I grabbed two wooden seats facing each other. Kyle and Noah went off to look for other seats and scout for anything better. They soon returned, excitedly instructing us to secure as much of the luggage rack above as possible. Of course! How did we not realize that the racks above provide valuable space, not just for our bags, but to stretch out and sleep also!? So we had two hard, wooden seats and space enough for two on the luggage rack. We alternated spots throughout the night. And the narrow rack not only enabled us to stretch out, it had noticeably less cockroaches.

Like many travelers, I am a little more aware of the many comforts and luxuries I take for granted. I used to arrive at work with a new opinion/complaint regarding the el and the CTA just about everyday (CSCIP staff - I am sorry you had to listen to my rants!) But we were able to laugh on that uncomfortable train ride because it was another collected adventure, another token to take with us from our travels. But this is the way it is here. And cramped trains are nothing compared to the real struggles and difficulties people endure in this beautiful and heartbreaking land.

where gods tread

rymaher — Tue, 4 Mar 2008 00:39:00 GMT

I am in a Picasso desert: Hampi. This place invokes another era and another planet entirely. Dozens and dozens of ancient temple ruins from the 14th and 15th century are situated between enormous hills that consist of giant stone and boulder. It seems as though gods really do tread this land. Centuries of erosion have created such unusual rock formations that, along with the numerous ruins, temples and sculptures, make for a landscape that is metaphysical.

This evening I climbed one of the highest peaks in Hampi. There is an antediluvian temple on top and together with a couple of Germans, a Brit, a few Indians, and four monkeys, I watched the sun descend. Hampi is a very dry place and it is surprising to see lush green valleys between the orange-brown, earthy terrain that rises in perpetual, panoramic peaks. Few times in my life has the sun felt so close. As it spilled over the bazaar, the valleys, and the weathered geography of this part of the world, I felt its orange profile imprinted between my eyes. Surely that star is one of the most brilliant manifestations of God.

Well...as India would have it, I tried to charge my camera yesterday and the battery blew. So unfortunately no pictures of that stunning sunset. I blame this on the discrepancy of voltages between the US and India. And I blame myself for not being prepared with an extra battery. Consequently, I have had to really practice nonattachment while the most spectacular scenery, coupled with the incredible sunsets and vantage points, go undocumented and unshared. It is a real shame because this landscape is just so immensely powerful and dramatic. These are the things that happen here though. And it is really quite trivial, I suppose. Now I have a mission to find another HP camera battery.

witnessing

rymaher — Sun, 2 Mar 2008 01:23:00 GMT

India has a keen ability of challenging every established thought and opinion of the world and this existence - no matter how inconsequential or small that perception may seem. At times it's utterly maddening, other moments it's the most beautiful gift. Sometimes it happens to me when I come across one of the infinite shrines dedicated to one of the 300 million and some Hindu gods and incarnations. It often happens when my heart meets my feet as I fight an impulse to avoid eye contact with a polio-stricken beggar. It's in the smells: spices, incense, marigolds, shit, dust, tea, fumes, smoke, so many unnameable fragrances. It's in the colors. It's in the sounds: high-pitched female vocals, rapid tablas, horns (endless fricken beeping horns), sweeping, chattering, the wind close at your ear, the wind far away in a palm tree, peddlers touting their goods. Everything about this place is acute and unabashed. It's easy to esteem it as mysterious and profound, because it certainly seems that way to me. But that's just another perception. Nevertheless this place, so crammed with countless languages, tastes, cultures, and beliefs, has a way of helping me access a space that is unfiltered, a space that is just observance. Then it's gone.

Day 1 and we are television stars

rymaher — Thu, 28 Feb 2008 02:59:00 GMT

Although my first day here seems like ages ago - I'm finally taking the time to jot it down. While waiting for my backpack to arrive in Chennai, Noah, Haley, Kyle and I decided to check out the Tamil Nadu studios (the second largest producer of Indian films after Bollywood). As fate would have it we met a middle-aged, bright orange sport shirt wearing, gold chain rocking man on the bus. Nirmal first asked Noah where we were headed and upon finding out, informed us that he once acted in several productions and assured us he could get us into places otherwise sealed off to tourists. Before long though, Nirmal was arguing with a security guard. While growing dubious of his connections and influence we soon realize that he is claiming we are Hollywood actors visiting India. Noah in particular, according to our dear friend Nirmal, has acted in 20 films, alongside Brad Pitt and Bruce Willis. The security guard gives us entry into the set of what appears to be an Indian version of American Idol. We are quickly directed to the audience section where we play along and mimic the dances and movements of our fellow spectators. However, before long, we are led onto the stage where we (sweaty, dirty, and tired) partake in what was once a well-rehearsed dance involving beautiful women in saris and a couple of nervous men who appear to be contestants of some sort. We have no idea what we are doing, except destroying some sort of line dance that is being filmed. But everyone onstage is smiling and enthusiastic, so we continue at our smelly and utterly confused best. Afterwards we find out that the show is being aired the following Saturday night. Unfortunately though, we didn't have access to a TV to catch it. Nirmal invited us back to his house and we met his wife, drank excellent coffee (Haley, the one female, helped prepare and serve the coffee!), listened to Nirmal describe his daily routine (water the flowers, feed his fish, nap, work a little), and looked at their wedding album. It was a ridiculous and wonderful first day. But, much to my disappointment, I have yet to be recognized and asked for an autograph.

Gallery: Chennai to Goa

rymaher — Mon, 25 Feb 2008 19:36:00 GMT

the february crew

here's the general skeleton

rymaher — Mon, 18 Feb 2008 02:22:00 GMT

ahhhh...where to start? I've been in India for a week and a half now. Kinda hard to believe - so much has happened I feel like I've been here for months. At the moment I'm traveling with 3 exceptional people: my good friend Noah from way back in the 1st grade and 2 people I met through him, Haley and Kyle. We started out in Chennai, India's fourth largest city with about 7 million people, and our making our way to Mumbai where Haley flies out on February 28th.

We've been on the move - staying in different cities and towns for a night or two and then taking trains and buses to new destinations. So far we've walked roads in Chennai, Mamallapuram, Tiruvannamalai, Pondicherry, Trichy, Kodaikanal, Madurai, Kollam, Kottayam, and Alappuzha. I know this probably doesn't mean much but it gives an idea how many places we've been and if you want to check out a map you can see our general route. I'm digging the way we travel and think that the places we eat and the lodges in which we stay provide the most genuine window into Indian life as we can get (considering we are foreigners and are in a given place for such a short time).

After we make it to Mumbai Kyle, Noah and I might be able to travel to Bhutan depending on whether we can gain access through a friend of Noah's family. It'd be amazing if that happens considering so few foreigners have been in that country. Soon after that I'll bid farewell to Noah and Kyle as the leave for trekking and I search for solid yoga teachers in Rishikesh. There are specific stories, impressions, etc. but time is short. Be back soon for more detailed experiences. paz.