Shake'n it Up

Do I Look Like a New Yoowkeh?

rachellevagy — Fri, 10 Jul 2009 02:07:00 GMT

At least once a day I am approached by tourists on the streets, in the parks and on the trains inquiring about directions. I'm still caught a bit off guard that they're asking me, a 5'1 girl fresh from the northwest region of the country, who is still using the GPS function on the iPhone to locate the nearest subway...but that's not for the tourists to know. Surprisingly, I've been able to dispense some good advice and send these strangers on their way. I'm really confused why New Yorkers are considered "unfriendly." I have yet to encounter such behavior.

Yeah, sure, people keep to themselves on the trains, but it's such an awkward place to make conversation. Why would you want the entire train to hear about what your boss wore to work or how often your dog humps other dogs at the dog park? The train is an excuse to catch up with the written word; novels, the times, podcasts, People Magazine, and in my case, the imperfections appearing in event brochures. I haven't had a chance to pick up a good book or a magazine (but I'm taking suggestions!), so I've been practicing my production skills: mispellings, lines that don't intersect but clearly should, kerning and poor image placement in advertisements. My sharpie is getting quite a workout!

Number of:

Days in New York: 9.5
Days I've felt like I've lived in New York: 32

Free concerts: Conor Oberst and the Mystic Valley Band, Jenny Lewis, African Drums on the F train.
Upcoming free concerts: Matt and Kim, Flosstradamus, Mission of Burma, Dirty Projectors, Black Lips, Deer Hunter, Dan Deacon, Casino Kids, Wave Project, Slow Club, Kenny Chesney Kings of Leon, Jason Mraz, Simian Mobile Disco, Yeasayer and my fave, GIRL TALK! And this is only one day's worth of research!

Free pilates classes I've attended: 1
Free yoga, bootcamp and physique classes in the parks at are booked on my calendar: Everyday.
Oh yes...I forgot to mention there's free breakfast available for the morning classes...and it's delicious!

Friends from Portland I've reconnected with: in the high teens (crazy, I know!)
Friends I've "randomly" run into: 3 (including a friend I made in Thailand!!!)
Visitors from Portland: 3 (and the number keeps growing!)

Times I've explained to people that this is my first day or week in New York: 100+
Times people express their love for Portland: 1000+
Times Stumptown Coffee is slipped into a conversation: 22
Times "Oregon" is pronounced "Origan": 3

It's really hard for me to come to terms with the fact that I have only been in New York for not even a full 10 days. I feel like I'm traveling again...every day there's a new adventure, something unique to discover in my neighborhood and massive amounts of people to connect with. Don't get me wrong, this is a very tough city to be claiming unemployment, but it's comforting to know that I am taking full advantage of my free time. I've met with a number of staffing companies, recruiters, friends of friends...all of which are optimistic about me finding work in the city. All it takes is talking to the right person, and they do exist...somewhere! New York is a collection of stories. Stories of struggle, success, personal freedom and exploration. Yes, this is probably the worst possible time for me to venture out and move to the center of the universe where the cost of living is outrageous and jobs in advertising are sparse, but it's just one more challenge to conquer.

I do miss Portland. Family, friends, biking and the color green...but my life is now New York and it's a good one :-D So...who's coming to visit?

A Gallery of Art. One Mile Long.

rachellevagy — Fri, 10 Jul 2009 01:00:00 GMT

Today's exhibit, graffiti. Street art is a common occurrence in New York City and it's something that's clearly lacking in Portland. Sure, gangs will tag brick walls and dilapidated buildings with their colors and cryptic letters, but there's so much more. The Williamsburg Bridge, which connects the Lower East Side to Brooklyn, is a never-ending visual display of typography, figure drawings and advertisements. The standard white pedestrian icons are overlaid with sharpie figure drawings which bring the shapes to life. Radio advertisements that date back to the 90's are still holding onto the brick buildings projecting their bubble letters and tasteless color palette. My favorite visual attractions are the messages people leave to each other, written in sharpie, crayola or spray paint:

"Be my friend."
"Look up."

I'll have to venture back with my camera and document my findings. Maybe my next project can be me writing a story with gibberish that I pass on my daily commute. Hmmmm.

I was very fortunate to encounter all of these visual stimulations on my first run in the city. I left behind my music, my chatty running companions and was introduced to the chaotic sounds of the city. Construction, the clitter clatter of the trains passing below me, honking, sirens and, what's this...singing?! Sure enough, midway through my run, I look down at the traffic and spot a plump, African American man tucked inside a white van (covered in graffiti) singing some R&B tune. He could have easily been a contestant on American Idol, his voice was so powerful and unexpectedly beautiful. I was clearly running faster than the bumper to bumper 2pm traffic, so I could only catch a couple of verses. Sure enough, a mile and a half later on my final stretch back to my apartment, the same van pulls up beside me and the tunes keep flying by. This New Yorker was clearly enjoying his commute.

Buckle Up, Rev the Engine and Hold On Tight

rachellevagy — Fri, 17 Apr 2009 02:19:00 GMT

If you're looking for something to spend your tax rebate on this year, please consider The Beverly Hills, a condo community overlooking the Tai Po Coast in Hong Kong. It's your ticket to unlimited access to a race-car track just a hop, skip and a jump from your front door. You'll also have The Forest (a miniature version of Disneyland), Audio/Visual Delight (your own private theater with top-of-the-line, full body massaging recliners) and the Kings Paradise (wine, cigars and pool) at your finger tips. These luxurious amenities are all free with the purchase of your 1.7 million dollar condominium purchase.

Wouldn't it be a fabulous story if I told you that The Beverly Hills was my residence for my 2+ week adventure in Hong Kong?! Nah, there wouldn't be anything to write about besides my morning swims in the infinity pool (overlooking the coast) and my circuit work out in the exercise kingdom (where each machine is paired with a televised tutorial on how to properly use the machine). And that would just be a dull reading experience for my audience. Why would I put you all through such a thing?

Obviously, The Beverly Hills made a lasting impression. I'd never seen anything like it. It was the most luxuriously detailed residence I've seen in my life and would put the Street of Dreams to shame. Even the garages in these condos were fit for a king. 2 walls of golden mirrors and fancy ornaments and a security camera to match. The 3 hours that I spent exploring the grounds was more than enough time to capture the details for this entry. I was in Hong Kong to experience Hong Kong, not an adult's fairytale.

My actual accommodations in Hong Kong didn't include any of the amenities listed above, but they were still luxurious for my standards. I stayed with my friend, Justina, and her mother in a beautiful condo propped up in the Middle Levels of Hong Kong. I had my very own room, with my very own bed, and my very own window seat that looked out to a 16 story view the hills. The backpacking days were gone. My bath towels and bedsheets were washed regularly, along with my bags and bags of dirty clothes. Every morning there was a cup of instant coffee waiting for me along with fruits, pastries, noodles.... My friend had the sweetest live-in maids who took great care of me, although it was an uncomfortable feeling having people wait on me and I'm not sure it will ever be introduced to my lifestyle. They also had their personal driver who picked me up from the airport and chauffeured us around in style to our nightly destinations.

Oooops, did I also mention that this adjustment of my lavish lifestyle in Hong Kong was courtesy of Justina's mother's celebrity status? It was always a trip walking into a restaurant with Auntie Nancy. Heads would turn, people would smile, wave and wish her a healthy recovery (she had been sick before my arrival). We were often escorted to a private back room at the restaurant to avoid the crowds and pose for a few snapshots from the server's cell phones. She loved the attention and was always so kind to her fans. It was a riot being an accessory to a star in Hong Kong and it provided a very rare and unique Hong Kong experience.

I snacked in the studio's cafeteria, climbed an Ancient Chinese castle on one of the outdoor sets and witnessed a filming of Auntie Nancy's popular soap opera. I was surrounded by Hong Kong celebrities in the dressing rooms and on the sets but had no idea who these people were. I'm sure the locals would have gone crazy being in my shoes, but how was I supposed to appreciate their fame? I was a foreigner.

The glam and the fame was brushed off to the side once I ventured off on my own. Hong Kong was so much more than luxury condos and television studios. I wanted to experience the food, street markets, botanical gardens, fountains, outdoor escalators, shopping malls, fishing villages, film festivals, skyline lazer light show, hikes and one of the highest levels of public transportation in the world. There was a lot of ground to cover in two weeks, but I had a plan to do it all...

Singapore: Rules are Made to be Broken.

rachellevagy — Tue, 14 Apr 2009 02:57:00 GMT

If you're feeling at all rebellious, you'll have a hay day in this city. But be prepared, disobeying the law will easily burn a hole in your wallet.

$150.00 Fine for Smoking
$150.00 Fine for Spitting
$500.00 Fine for Littering

Oh, and don't get me started on Jay-walking. That's going to be an additional $50.

If you haven't handed over all your Singapore dollars to the authorities, you'll have plenty of other opportunities to blow it on fancy hotels, river cruises and fine cuisine. Singapore wasn't initially part of my SE Asia itinerary for that very reason, but since a friend of mine (that I was visiting in Hong Kong) was heading down there for a 2-day business trip, I decided to tag along.

My home for the next few days was on the 45th floor of the Swisshotel, the tallest hotel in SE Asia and the 3rd tallest hotel in the world. Wow. I went from spending $3.00 a night to $120.00 a night (and that was a discounted rate!) The $120.00 price tag came with a stunning, 180 degree view of the harbor along with a few other luxuries that were re-introduced to me after 2 months of backpacking:

My very own queen-sized bed. What was I going to do with all of this room? I didn't have to worry about cuddling the far left edge of the bed, worried that I was going to collide with Hannah or Molly midway through the night. I could kick, dance and squirm during my REM sleep. Too much room to play!

A Warm Blanket of Goose Feathers. Yes, my very own down comforter! Since the room was cooled by the AC, I was able to cuddle up in the feathery-goodness. I slept so well!

Pillows, pillows and more pillows. Were they encouraging a pillow fight...? What was I supposed to do with the three extra pillows? I barely used the corner of one.

Little Bottles of Soaps, a tooth brush (paired with a mini tube of tooth paste), razor and a sewing kit. All of these items would have been like gold if I were back in Thailand, especially, the mini bottle of liquid soap.

A Swimming Pool (x2). I easily spent most of my late mornings and early afternoons poolside. I'm not exactly proud calling myself a pool bum, but after five weeks of being on the go, it was welcomed. I hate to admit this, but I wasn't all that interested in exploring the city. There wasn't any adventure or intrigue. It was too clean, too proper and too westernized.

The 60th Floor, AKA The Executive Business Center. After a couple hours of sunshine, I worked my way up to the VIP area of the hotel to check my email, indulge in FREE carbonated beverages and watch the toy cars and toy people go about their daily lives, 60 floors below me. Oh, and did I mention that the VIP access was courtesy of my friend's mom's celebrity status?

Buffet Breakfast. This was the devil. An all-you-can-eat brunch buffet that featured delicacies from all over the world. Fruits, meats, cheeses, pastries, soups, noodles, quiches...I easily ate my weight in food and I'm still puzzled how I managed to squeeze into my swim suit.

Okay, I'm really not that shallow. I didn't spend every waking moment at the hotel. Once the temperature cooled and it was comfortable to walk around, I did quite a bit of exploring. I was fortunate to have the company of Kevin, who just returned from two years of Peace Corps volunteer service in Cambodia, and three of his other Peace Corps mates. The five of us wandered the streets for hours and enjoyed the sights. The famous Merlion Fountain (and the mini-me version), Orchard Road (shops and restaurants), the harbor, and my favorite, Little India.

Little India was also home to the backpackers. For only $20 a night, you could be set up in a dorm style bunk. Outrageous! (if you can't tell by the tone of my typing...that's sarcasm speaking) It was refreshing to be amongst other budget-conscious travelers and we found some good eats with good prices in Little India. We even located an Australian Brewpub with a Pale Ale on tap. My first decent beer in five weeks. Delicious!

Singapore's after hours scene was quite impressive. There were popular clubs and bars scattered around the city, but most of the action was around Clark Que (pronounced kee). An outdoor shopping mall of restaurants, clubs and live music venues. There was even a bar called "clinic" that could have easily been mistaken for the ER. Wheel chairs replaced bar stools, skeletons, xrays and stethoscopes were the decor and you could consume your beverage through an IV. This was my type of hospital!

Other bizarre evening encounters worth mentioning:

* An older gentleman surrounded by six young ladies wearing next to nothing. Hmmmm...I wonder if he had a good night?

* Jumping up and down to a band's "dance" version of Rod Stewart's "Forever Young." Why on earth would you want to rock out to this classic soft rock hit?

* A 50 foot ledge lined with empty beer cans, bottles of wine, Doritos bags...thousands of dollars worth of fines...in the world's cleanest city?

I had a fantastic 48 hours living the luxurious life, but I've recently learned that this was not my preferred style of traveling. Yes, it's a good break and it could be worthwhile to treat myself to the "good life" after weeks of budget traveling, but I was missing out on reality. I've had a new appreciation for the people, culture and lifestyle of developing countries. It's raw, it's a struggle, but it's an incredible learning experience.

Made in ___________ .

rachellevagy — Sat, 11 Apr 2009 16:47:00 GMT

If you're wearing GAP or Old Navy fashions, please take a moment to identify the birthplace of your garment. Does your tag read "MADE IN CAMBODIA?"

Based on the 1996 Trade Agreement between the US and Cambodia, textile factories started popping up all over Cambodia. Working conditions and wages increased and created much-needed jobs for the Cambodians. Below is my fictional interpretation of the early years of the life of a Tshirt:

A clear spring evening, 12 years ago: The Khemai gather in the marketplace, crack open their Angkor beers, turn up their TVs and celebrate their new jobs in the factories.

Humid summer morning 10 years ago: A truck and it's driver carrying loads of GAP labels breaks down just meters away from an International Primary school. Children, with their freshly pressed uniforms and backpacks strapped on tight, are arriving on the back of motorbikes. The truck driver, a bit concerned about his valuable load of goods, runs for help. What should he do? His truck will not make it to the port on time! He rushes into the first open door to find a group of children gathered around a single table, sketching out beautiful designs of the country, the people...and what's this...a beer label?

The truck driver's entrepreneur side was starting to shine as he observed the art. What if these beautiful sketches were screened onto the Tshirts in his truck? He'd be able to sell them for loads of money to the wealthy travelers passing through town! And so...he did.

A couple of years later: 10 Tshirt designs are chosen and printed in mass-quantities

Yesterday: These same 10 Tshirt designs still exist.

The story may be fiction, but there is truth behind the design. There is no originality. Every market in Siem Reap sells the same Tshirt design. It's a shame that graphic design is not highly regarded in these parts. But for $2 a pop, I couldn't resist.

Shopping at the night markets in Siem Reap was similar to Thailand. Shop owners trying their best to draw you in with their "special prices" or "quality goods." My only other purchase was a very unique and stimulating experience. A sign reading "guaranteed pleasure or your money back" instantly peeked my interest. Molly and I decided to go for it. Two ladies approached us with warm rags and thoroughly cleaned our feet. We were ready...ready to be eaten alive!

We dangled our feet into the pool below us and within seconds, hundreds of tiny little fish attacked our feet. They nibbled away at every part of my foot causing a tickling sensation. This stimulation at the bottom end of my body was more intense than a shot of espresso. I felt an instant rush of energy and couldn't help but laugh. Hundreds of fish were swimming head first towards my bare skin, eating away all of the dead cells. Eight minutes and $1.50 later, I was fulfilled.

Siem Reap was incredibly beautiful and full of adventure. Other than the ruins of Angkor Wat, I spent my days riding along the side streets on my bike, observing the everyday life of the locals. I often stopped at schools, observed, shot photographs, talked to the kids...it was so fulfilling. I'd browse the day markets, walk through the parks and shoot more photograph of the French Colonial architecture. During a delicious breakfast of yogurt, fresh fruit and muesli, I started chatting up with three guys next to us. They were all from the states, (of course, I met more Americans) but were volunteering for the Peace Corps in Thailand. It was refreshing to this dynamic trio and we ended up spending the rest of our time in Siem Reap.

It was very difficult for me to say goodbye to Siem Reap. I recommend this humble city to anybody traveling around SE Asia. Accommodations and food are more than affordable. Our guest home was only $10.00 a night (total) for three girls. The French-inspired guest home couldn't have been more than a couple years old so it was very clean and was almost too good to be true. Their amenities included free bike rentals, internet access and bottled water. That alone would have cost more than the room!

Hannah, Molly and I weren't so lucky when we arrived in Phenom Phen. I spent less than 24 hours in this city and couldn't wait to leave. We were all cranky, tired and mentally drained from the 6 hour bus ride and Phenom Pehn was pure chaos. Eight lanes of traffic, pollution, humidity, filth and locals that were incredibly rude. I'm sure Phenom Phen had much to offer, but I wasn't in the state of mind to explore.

Before my flight to Bangkok, I had a few hours to educate myself on the genocide that spread throughout Cambodia just thirty years ago. I visited the killing fields and the Tuol Sleng Museum. Their history is really worth investing a few minutes of reading time. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tuol_Sleng_Genocide_Museum It was a tragic episode in history and I was deeply moved. The information was displayed well at both the killing fields and Tuol Sleng, but I was frustrated when I read a sign that compared the Cambodian genocide to the Holocaust, explaining that what had happened to Cambodia was much worse. How do you compare two separate genocides? What makes one worse than the other?

I kept asking myself that question on my way to the airport...I had an entire hour in a tuk tuk to process the genocide. Farewell Cambodia.

One Body and Eight Fuzzy Legs of Goodness. Web Not Included.

rachellevagy — Thu, 9 Apr 2009 13:55:00 GMT

For $0.25, you can purchase your worst nightmare. Fortunately, I was offered it for free.

I had only been in Siem Reap for thirty minutes and I befriended some expats at the bar below our guest house. Along with my beer, I was immediately offered a delicate piece of deeply fried meat, or should I say, arachnid. This wasn't your everyday spider that creeps along your walls and casts a half an inch shadow. When crushed, this creature would cover an entire square foot of surface area. It was gnarly!

Nobody else in the bar would lay a hand on the spider, so I decided to give it a shot. Living by my philosophy of "trying everything once, and if doesn't kill me, doing it again." I wasn't brave enough to chomp down on the body, so I snapped off it's front leg and slowly inserted it into my mouth. Not bad, not bad...a little to crunchy for my liking, but it made it's way into my tummy without any complications. I couldn't believe it. I had just consumed a spiders leg. Next time, I'm going for the whole thing.

Siem Reap was full of life, beauty and history. The main attraction are the ruins of Angkor Wat, an incredible palace built of sandstone in the 12th century. There are hundreds of temples scattered around the site but the most known is the central structure that boasts three symmetrical towers resembling lotus buds or dried corn husks. The most spectacular view of the ruins took place at sunrise. The 4am wake up calls Hannah, Molly and I received from our cell phones was well worth the it. We arrived at Angkor Wat with the thousands of other tourists wanting to capture the beauty of the sunrise. There were signs posted EVERYWHERE that clearly displayed "no talking." How does is a symbol of a big red cross over a head with its mouth open, talking, not translate into a universal symbol of "please be quiet?" Once I plugged my ears with Sufjan Stevens and looked up, I was at peace. I couldn't deal with the chaotic chants, songs and chitter chatter from the tour groups. The moon and the stars danced above me until they slowly started to fade into the sunrise.

Yes, Angkor Wat at sunrise was stunning and I would highly recommend this $40 ticket to anybody, but it wasn't the highlight of Siem Reap. It didn't touch on any emotion. It was an empty feeling of beauty.

I was mostly intrigued with the locals and the children. They were running around everywhere. Many of them would approach me with baskets of knick knacks, bottles of water or just empty hands begging for money. Yes, the saw me as a dollar sign, but I wanted them to see more than that.

"Lady, lady, you thirsty. Cold water for you, one dollar."

"You want bracelets. Special price for you."

These children were persistent and refused to back off until they successfully made a sale...unless you catch them off guard. I found it quite entertaining to beat them at their own game. Instead of saying no, no, I don't need a watch, I would ask them their names, how old they were. If they were responsive, I would joke around with them. Their English is superb, even their accents are accurate. These children learn English from the tourists. Since many of them are forced to sell trinkets everyday, they have lots of exposure to the language.

I even taught a seven year old boy the game of basketball. He was wearing a Michael Jordan jersey and I kept asking him if he liked basketball. I could tell he was a bit confused with the word so I started acting out the sport. I even grabbed my Blazer Jersey to show him that we had similar tastes in fashion. I passed an invisible ball to myself, dribbled back and forth, positioned the ball over my head, snapped my wrist and....released. Score! 2 points! My act of sherades turned into a game of pictionary, and finally, a game of one on one. I crumbled up a piece of paper from my journal, had the boy hold up his arms for a hoop, and passed the wad of paper back and forth. He had potential to be the next Michael Jordan, or should I say...the next Brandon Roy?!

Just spread'n the love of the game...on the other side of the world. Go Blazers!

The Ants Go Marching One by One, Hurrah, Hurrah.

rachellevagy — Sat, 4 Apr 2009 21:12:00 GMT

The ants go marching one by one
hurrah, hurrah
The ants go marching one by one
the little one stops to suck his thumb
and they all go marching down
to the ground
to get out of the rain
boom boom boom boom

Translation:

Ant = Hannah, Molly and I
The March = our complicated journey into Cambodia
Rain = that was real.

Traveling to Poi Pet, (Thai/Cambodian border) was a simple task that only involved one vehicle transfer and 2 quick stops. Pretty damn efficient! Once we arrived at Poi Pet, the true colors of a third world country were exposed. Trash was present everywhere. Hundreds of children were running in the streets with broken flip flops and bare feet. Ten year old boys were pulling around bundles of twigs and produce with insects swarming around them. Dilapidated buildings lined the streets and I felt as if was in the middle of a war.

The irony of this small border town was that it was also home to over a dozen casinos. There weren't flashy lights or larger-than-life glass structures, there wasn't even a paved road. The casinos looked as if they had been built in the 1970's and had just been left to rot. According to my sources, the Thais are not allowed to gamble and they often travel to the border to partake in this risky business.

Hannah, Molly and I successfully cleared both rounds of border inspections and were then instructed to board a short bus to the bus station. We were told that the bus taking us to Siem Reap wasn't allowed to pick us up at the border...this immediately raised a red flag. The three of us boarded the short bus and the doors closed behind us. Aside from the bus driver, his three year old son and a local Cambodian, we were the only three passengers in the bus. Why didn't the driver wait for the rest of the crew and where were they taking us?!

The bus clearly wasn't equipped with AC, so we all busted the window open for a cool breeze. The splitter splatter of the rain drops also helped sooth the heat. I desperately tried to relax but ended up drawing pictures with the little boy in the front seat. Fifteen minutes later we arrived at the bus stop. A clean, white, open building with a tile roof and brown interior. There were a few black plastic chairs scattered around the lobby, but it was lifeless. Where were the buses and the other travelers? Why couldn't we just go directly to our destination?!

Turned out that there was indeed a bus waiting for us on the other end. They must have miscalculated the number of travelers in each group and wanted to fill this first bus. The three of us girls were their best candidates. It would have been nice to know this information.

Finally, we were on our way to Siem Reap! Our luxurious VIP travel accommodations that we had gotten used to in Thailand had been down-graded significantly. Our bus was stripped of any frills and was in need of a routine check up. I was exhausted, all I wanted to do was sleep. I could have easily passed out on the lightly padded seat but struggled due to the constant beepings of the horns. Ten seconds of silence was rare. This wasn't road rage, this was simply an intrusive warning signal that a vehicle was approaching oncoming traffic, bikes, motor scooters. In the time it took you to read this paragraph, the driver must have used his horn a total of three or four times.

Four hours and 1,500 beeps later, Siem Reap was a reality. It was a beautiful sight. French-colonial and Asian influenced buildings and hotels illuminated the main road. Flashy lights, lanterns and signs led us to our guest home where we unloaded our backpacks, showered and started to map out our Cambodian adventure.

This was going to be good.

No Money, No Honey.

rachellevagy — Sat, 4 Apr 2009 04:41:00 GMT

And that's the truth. Any foreign male approaching his senior years, white, gray or little hair, and sporting a pair of frames (not shades) are targets. No, this isn't a shooting range or a battle field, it's more fulfilling than that. It's all about attention. VIP attention.

Thailand was notorious for this. It was a common occurrence to spot an American, Englishman, or Australian gentleman in the company of a Thai lady, half his age, wearing minimal clothing. After reading my last blog entry regarding Ping Pong shows, you could just imagine how much of Thailand's GDP is courtesy of this after-hours behavior. I'm not saying that all of the couples I observed were guilty of this, but knowing the country's reputation, I wouldn't put it past them.

I was very familiar with the Thai's perception of men, but was in for a treat once I headed east for Cambodia. I arrived at the border and hopped off the bus to find women with umbrellas flocking towards a middle-aged gentleman in front of us. He wasn't even wearing a suit. A modest yellow polo was tucked into his faded jeans. His fashionable attire wouldn't be worth mentioning if it wasn't for his highly-attractive white socks with sandals. There must have been five ladies fighting for his attention. They automatically assume that these men have money and if they're lucky, they can be introduced to their fantasy of luxury. Often, they are thinking more of how their families will benefit from the foreign aide. It's rather depressing to watch, but these women have a hope. Someday, their prince charming will arrive.

You can find hundreds of versions of "No Money, No Honey" T shirts everywhere in Cambodia. Pink shirts, white type. Yellow shirts, black type. Has this made it to the states yet?

Ping Pong. Played With One Paddle, One Ball and...

rachellevagy — Wed, 1 Apr 2009 18:10:00 GMT

Before I dive into the sport of paddles and balls, I have to touch briefly on my new appreciation for Bangkok. I spent the first six days of my travels in Bangkok and couldn't wait for my exit. I still can't figure out why I was so excited to return to Bangkok. Maybe it was my luxurious hostel accommodations at Lub D, the people, the convenience of grocery stores and incredibly cheap street food...whatever it was, I felt like I was returning home.

I awoke at 5.10am after an exhausting bus ride from Krabi. I don't remember much of the ride, except stopping at a local market in the middle of nowhere around 1am. I must have been sleepwalking through the rows and rows of sweets, dried fruits and baked items. Our bus, along with 15 other tour buses, took their routine pit stop here. Next thing I remember, I was waking up under my two fleece blankets (garfield and some other Disney character) to some obnoxious Thai screaming, "Bangkok, Bangkok...Bangkok, Bangkok." I think that was my que to grab my belongs and hop off the bus.

I left Hannah and Molly and jumped in a cab back to my beloved Lub D hostel 20 minutes down the road. Although I was groggy from the sudden wake up, I was a little suspicious of the route my cab driver was taking me. I knew my way around Bangkok good enough to know that he was taking me on a mini detour in order to increase the cab fair. Eighty-three baht later, I arrived at Lub D, craving the long awaited free internet, clean showers and cheap laundry service.

Since I had less than 24 hours left in Bangkok, I didn't want to waste a single minute dilly-dallying around. I met Pamela, another backpacker (from Burbank) and we boarded the skytrain. Destination: Weekend Market.

We had only been on the skytrian for a few minutes before I had yet another random encounter with a friend from the past. I was gazing out the windows of the train and noticed a bob of blond, curly hair. Could this be my friend Kristen from High School? I knew she was going to be in Bangkok...but what would the chances be of running into her? I wasn't going to waste my timing pondering the odds, so I screamed her name, 5 or 6 times, from the train...with locals looking at me like I was crazy. Like I really cared what they thought...I wanted to see my friend!

Sure enough, it was Kristen. She boarded the train and we were both babbling to each other, a million miles a minute. Great minds think alike...she was also heading to the Weekend Market with her husband. It was one of the most memorable train rides.

I was very fortunate to return to Bangkok on a Saturday because this market was incredible. Each vendor occupied a closet-like space where they jammed in as much merchandise as they could into every corner and cranny of their space. It was a maze of over 8,000 shops. House wear, souvenirs, food, pets, clothing (both new and used). I only lasted about 30 seconds in the "used" clothing section due to the overwhelming stench of rotten fabric. The only ventilation in this section was a fan that hardly moved the air. I often found myself around the perimeter of the market to escape the crowds. It was a common occurrence for me to find myself nudged between a vendor and a moving beverage cart in which the vendour was yelling "beep beep, beep beep." It was always funny to me to hear the human voice double as a car horn. I may have to borrow their technique when I head back to the states...only on my bike, of course.

The sun began to fade and I hurried back to the hostel to shower up for an evening of intrigue. Molly, Hannah, the Mikes...and whoever else we could round up, had planned one last reunion for the evening. The main goal of the evening: Ping Pong.

We all congregated under a bright blue billboard at the entrance of Pat Pong, the hop'n night spot, which was home to a bustling night market surrounded by sleazy bars and clubs. This row of nightlife activity is world famous due to it's unique form of entertainment. Young Thai men and women would stand outside of their perspective clubs, trying to grab every passer-bye. Many times, they would hold out a faded laminated menus...not of food or beverages...but of objects...often ping pong balls topping their list.

Our mob of nine knew what we were getting into, so we settled on a no-name venue and stumbled up a flight of stairs towards the back of the strip. One by one, each of us took a seat on the black pleather booth that faced the stage. We ordered our 100 baht ($3) drinks of coke and a drop or two of rum, and waited for the show. The bar was empty. This clearly wasn't one of the popular establishments. It was dark and there were 4 semi-plump girls with minimal clothing standing in front of us. One of the girls was sporting black and white socks as her only piece of clothing. Bizarre. No, this wasn't as strip show. The girls don't dance. They don't remove their clothing (they don't wear anything to begin with) and they don't collect dollar bills. This was a Ping Pong show. It's what put Thailand on the map for adult entertainment. Where all the action happens above the knees and below the belt. One paddle, one ball...one girl. Since this is adult subject matter, I will dispose more of my stories from the evening upon your private email request.

Ping Pong...anybody?

How Could I Forget?!

rachellevagy — Mon, 30 Mar 2009 12:46:00 GMT

I'm an idiot. Where did I go wrong? I failed to include my most valuable piece of travel advice; an art-inspired concept that has fused both of my worlds together. My beloved Portland Trail Blazer jersey.

I did a few minor modifications to the #1 Jerret Jack Jersey that I purchased for $10 at a local thrift shop. Since Jack was no longer playing for the Blazers, I replaced the number on the front of the jersey with an embroidered piece of fabric displaying the Blazer logo, and transformed his #1 into a #4 with white acrylic paint on the back.

The Blazer jersey is now a celebrity in my 1500+ photos. I’ve received many odd looks from locals and fellow travelers, but it’s well worth the embarrassment. The vibrant red mesh has been photographed everywhere, in all forms. There are shots of me sporting the jersey (many times in a skirt), waving it across my body or simply just shots of the jersey against a foreign background. It has made everything worth photographing.

I’m not saying you have to bring a Blazer jersey with you, in fact, I’d be quite surprised if you did. Grab anything to replace yourself in a photograph. A key chain, a stuffed animal or a can of your favorite beer. But please, please, please, leave your Los Angeles Lakers jersey at home. They are strictly banned from crossing into international waters.

...and the guardian angel, courtesy of Larisa. I feel terrible for leaving out such a symbolic item. Before leaving on my journey, Larisa passed along this beautiful silver stone with a relief of an angel on the top. I placed it in a zipped pouch attached to my messenger bag in fear that I would loose it. Since it wasn't visible, I'd often forget I was carrying it with me. But it meant so much.

There were many times when I cleaned out my bag and I'd dig around in the pouch thinking I was grabbing some baby baht, but in fact, it was the angel. A little reminder of home and of my friends...worlds away. Always made me stop and smile and think about how far I've traveled and the meaning behind all of this. It's my reality and it's been fantastic. Thank you, Larisa. Much love.

Pssst. Top Secret Traveling Tips. Tote Style'n.

rachellevagy — Mon, 30 Mar 2009 04:11:00 GMT

Friends, family and readers of all ages, please be advised. The following information is strictly based on my personal preferences in SE Asia and may not apply for those of you traveling on a more flexible budget. Every morning I made sure to include most, if not all, of the following items in my handy-dandy messenger bag.

Wreck This Journal: Also known as my travel bible. Weeks before I began my SE Asian adventure, my two dear friends, Abby and Aubrey, planned a surprise birthday party for me...which I failed to attend. I stumbled home from the bars later that evening, or should I say early morning...and found a collection of gifts snuggled up with my down comforter. I was a bit confused at that point (not knowing that the party had been held just hours before) but was so excited to dig through the box of goodies! All of the gifts were fantastic, but the last gift I unwrapped was a like gold. A 200 page, medium-sized, paperback book that was titled, "Wreck this Journal." Every other page housed a creative activity in which I was encouraged to act on.

"Climb up high. Drop this journal."

"Tear this page out. Put it in your pocket. Put it through the wash. Stick it back in."

and my favorite: "Hang this journal in a public place. Invite people to draw here."

I will admit that I haven't followed a majority of the directions, but the actions have drawn a lot of attention from fellow travelers. The journal has survived four weeks of vigorous activity and will have to endure another three and a half weeks before it retires. WTJ (Wreck This Journal) currently hosts scribbles of travel recommendations, phone numbers, translations, exotic fruit names, facebook friends, emails, yoga studios, meeting places, meeting times, bus numbers, airline confirmation numbers, conversion rates, random acts of kindness, thoughts, daily activities, costs of food and a detailed daily account of my adventures. I may be able to remember every detail of my travels today, but come next year, those important moments of my travels will fade and be lost in time. This is the first time in my life that I've had the discipline to record my daily routine/thoughts. Thank you Abbs and Aubs!

Tooth Brush + Mouthwash: A mintaful burst of fresh air and gentle scrubbing. A spa treatment for your mouth. While traveling in borderline third-world countries, I've encountered days full of sweat, dirt, diesel exhaust, sewage, roadkill...pretty much anything foul you could imagine. I may not have been able to shield my body from the filth, but my mouth was entitled to VIP treatment.

As far as mouthwash in concerned, don't settle for the cheap stuff. Spend the extra ten cents on Listerine's Cool Mint. The stronger the sting, the fresher your mouth will feel in the 90+ degree humidity. I also recommend splashing your toothbrush with the Listerine and brushing away any unwanted residue leftover from the questionable street food. It's an easy task to enjoy the simple pleasures of a clean mouth in a dirty environment. Feel like your teeth need a brushing?

SIGG: Another gift I received on my birthday, via FedEx on my front porch from Kelley in SD. A cleanly designed water vessel made of stainless steel that is conveniently topped with a looped cap, which can be affixed onto any bag with a carabinier. This is the one item that I am kicking myself for not bringing with me. Not only would it have kept my water cool, but it would have saved me quite a few dollars. My alternative to the SIGG; a reusable 1.5 liter plastic bottle, courtesy of 7/11 (for 12 baht) with a 2-day lifespan.

Thanks to Hannah and Molly, I discovered filtered water dispensers throughout Thailand. Instead of hitting up the 7/11's on an hourly basis and handing over my precious "baby baht," I could locate one of the off-white contraptions, insert a single baht, press go, and watch the filtered goodness make its way into my bottle. Consuming 8 liters of water a day could break the bank. Who would have thought hydrating would be an expensive hobby...?

Medicine Cabinet, Miniaturized: No, this isn't another episode of "Honey, I Shrunk the Kids," it's simply a sampling of a first aid kit held together in a small ziplock bag. 2 Advil, 2 Imodium, 2 cough drops, all natural throat spray (with echinacea) from Whole Foods, 2 bandaids, lip balm, sample sun screen packets and a cleansing wipe (donated to me by one of my guesthomes). This may sound extravagant, but it's necessary, especially when more than 50% of the food I'm consuming is questionable. Fortunately, very few of those items have been removed permanently from my ziplock, but I know if a problem arises, I'll be prepared.

The Scarf: This is it's 2nd debut in my blog. It must be important. From my last entry, this square piece of green and black checkered cloth has also served as a beach towel, bath towel, a modified version of a bag to carry snorkel gear, sunshield, hippy headband, bed sheet, skirt, table cloth and a sweatband. Who wants one?!

Pens. Pens. Pens: I strongly encourage attending tradeshows or expos before traveling to a third-world country. Stock up on ink-filled plastic cylinders. These simple objects are treasures for the children. As mentioned in my previous journal entry, the kids totally eat these up. I usually carry pens with me for my own selfish reasons, but I've quickly learned to bring a few extras as gifts.

TP: Bathrooms don't exist in Thailand. There are no baths to be found. Key word: Toilet, and you're lucky if you actually find one of those. In most cases, the "toilet" is an elevated bowl. No flushing, no pluming and certainly, no toilet paper. For a comfortable exit from the non-westernized toilets, I recommend stashing some tissues in ziplock baggie. There's no need to spend extra baht on a roll of TP since most restaurants will provide TP centerpieces on their tables. It's become second-nature for me to grab a couple squares from the tables before entering the disposal chamber.

Liquid Soap (travel size): A little drop goes a long way. Not only is TP a rare find...you're lucky if they even have soap or a functioning faucet. Hand sanitizer is a great alternative, but I still believe in the real deal. Leave it to the soap and a splash of your bottled drinking water to chase away the evil bacteria. Your immune system will be thanking you later.

Sun Screen by Day, Bug Spray by Night: The sun is intense in SE Asia and I constantly found myself reapplying the SPF 30 on an hourly basis to avoid the cancerous burns. It worked wonders. One application of SPF won't outlast your sweat, frolicking in the waves or cannon balls in the middle of a corral reef. Save your skin.

Once the sun begins its descent, it's feeding time for the mesquitos. By carrying the bug spray in your travel pack at all times, you avoid the unnecessary trip back to your room, and can also avoid being eaten alive (and possibly contracting malaria).

Fully-Charged Cell Phone: Obviously, the cell phone is the first thing we all make sure we have in the working world. It's our lifeline, our connection to everything. Why would this be necessary when traveling?

Besides communicating with fellow travelers, scheduling meeting times, reconvening with friends in chaotic situations, the cell phone has doubled as my alarm clock, my watch and my currency converter (thanks to the calculator function).

Other notable items: coin purse, ziplocks (for leftover food or leaky fruit), plastic spoon, snacks, deck of playing cards (could be useful for late night drinking games), i pod + mini speakers (only if there's room in your bag...you never know when you'll need some tunes as a soundtrack)

Please feel free to add other items to this list and let me know if anything listed above has helped you in your travels!

--
www.rachellevagy.com

We Will, We Will...Rock You. Rock You.

rachellevagy — Wed, 25 Mar 2009 21:57:00 GMT

I made it. Twenty-two meters later (60ish feet...?), I arrived at the peak. Railay Beach was off to my left and was glittered with longtail boats. The 12 foot long palm leaves that I climbed through was just a canopy hiding me from the rest of the climbers. This was on of the most challenging but most rewarding climbs I've experienced. I've climbed with my brother in Southern California along beautiful rocks above the ocean, but this climb was special. I was worlds away in Thailand on some of the most elaborate displays of limestone. There were points during this last climb where I feared for my grip and just trusted that my jump over to the next pocket would secure my footing. Flawless.

That climb probably lasted less than 10 minutes, and it left me craving more, but the climbing package and my body had expired. Molly joined me for the half day of climbing and had never climbed in her life. She showed those rocks who was boss! She rocked those rocks and we couldn't stop glowing.

Our island adventures continued another few nights in Railay and then we were off to Phi Phi. (hey look, I learned how to include links in my blog!) Phi Phi was only an hour and a half boat ride but I wish it had gone on forever. I perched myself on the top patio of the boat to soak in some cancerous UV rays and took in all of the beautiful scenery. Transportation via water is key, plus it's a great opportunity for me to meet more people. I ended up striking up conversation with a Kiwi named James who had a similar travel itinerary and was easily entertained by his adventures.

We arrived in Phi Phi like a swarm of bees entering the island. We've been told that the island was heavily populated by tourists and that it was rather difficult to find a decent guest house. This was true. The streets were lined with vendors and overly-tan bodies. The town was a maze of activity. I ended up rushing past the congestion with James to search for guest house while Molly and Hannah relaxed with their Lonely Planets at a nearby cafe.

The guest houses on Phi Phi were over-priced and pretty run down, but I ended up finding a decent place just minutes from the beach. They even threw in a free breakfast. As long as the accommodations were clean and could squeeze three girls comfortably, we had success.

Moments after checking into the guest house, I ran into some other friends I had made during the trek in Chang Mai. Of course. They were actually staying right next to us. What are the chances?

My nights on Phi Phi consisted of drinking Thai-inspired concoctions from mini buckets and watching Thai Kickboxing with an entire collection of new friends from all over the world. The days were full of beach hopping, snorkeling and relaxing.

The water along the beaches were almost too clear to be real. I felt like I was snorkeling on a set, in a pool, where they imported the sand, the rocks, the sea creatures. The water around some of the lagoons was so clear you could see all of the fish from the boat. I was even bombarded with schools of fish when the tour guide decided to throw in everybody's left over lunch right above my head. I was getting kisses from hundreds of little fishies! A traffic jam of fish directly in front of my face. Such a beautiful and lively scene.

Oh, and the sand. It wasn't even sand, it was pure powder. The finest, whitest grain of sand I've ever walked on. I could even make my very own sand ball. Do you think the airlines would mind if I brought a few tons back to Portland? I may have to import some palm trees and sunshine as well.

Nature's Resort: All Insects Welcome.

rachellevagy — Wed, 25 Mar 2009 12:47:00 GMT

Ko Samui was a lovely introduction to the islands, but Molly, Hannah and I were ready to leave the touristy chaos behind and hit up the less populated beaches.

On our way to Krabi (a one-night pit stop) we met Nikki, our new friend from the UK. The four of us connected immediately on our 10 hour road trip. We all had so much to share, to learn, to laugh about. I couldn't have asked for better company. Our early morning adventure began in an 8-seater van, which led us to a ferry, to bus, followed by a 1/2 kilometer walk, to another bus, then, finally, a taxi to our final destination: Mansion A Guesthouse in Krabitown. Another example of the impossible act of arriving from point A to point B without any road blocks.

Krabi wasn't anything too exciting. It was simply a place to sleep and rest up for the continuation of our island trek.

Next stop: Railay. A rock-climbers dream. The longtail boat ride from Krabi to Railay was incredible. Huge cliffs resembling larger-than-life mummified animals with wax-like extremities popped up everywhere. Some of these rock formations were covered with lush green vegetation. During low tide, the rocks curved inward and created an illusion as if they were floating above the surface of the ocean. Haystack Rock looks like a pebble compared to these formations!

An hour and half later, the four of us arrived on the East Coast of Railay. Railay Beach is very unique considering it's a peninsula and you can walk from one side to the other in less than five minutes. The four of us developed a brilliant strategy of finding accommodations. Molly and would explore and hunt for bargain rooms, while Hannah and Nikki relaxed in the cafe with their coconut shakes.

My tummy was grumbling and I was still a little fatigued from the boat ride, but I was up for the challenge of exploring the peninsula (or isthmus as we referred to it). We ventured from the East side, to the west side to find that hotel rooms were super spendy. I did get some advice from fellow travelers advising us to hike over to Tonsai, the next beach over, for more affordable accommodations. Unfortunately, we couldn't just walk over to Tonsai. During high tide, the easy, 5 minute path to Tonsai was submerged in water, so we discovered option B, a 20 minute hike, jump, climb up the rocks and over to the neighboring beach. Please keep in mind; this was all done in my leather flip flops. I would never attempt this trek in flip flops back in Portland, but Thailand is an exception.

Tonsai was different. It's an intense blend of hippies, rock climbers, back packers and free spirits. Totally rustic but totally affordable. After scoping out 3 bungalows, all pretty similar, Molly and I settled on the cheapest option: Nature's Resort. They looked just fine during the day. Queen-sized bed, mosquito nets, a 50% toilet and running water...we had roughed it before on our treks, why not rough it again, island style?

Bad move on our part. Not only were lowering our standards, but we were going to be roughing it in the rain. A huge monsoon burst open as the four of us boarded the longtail boat to the other beach. Our backpacks were soaked to the bone. Luckily, all of my clothes had been sealed in ziplock bags...but the odor of a wet backpack was quite foul.

It just gets worse...evening hours hit Tonsai and I made the mistake of going back to my bungalow and turning on the light. A flock of winged insects flooded my room and I nearly ran out the door screaming. I would have been okay with flies or mosquitoes, but these creatures looked dangerous and I didn't want to have anything to do with them. It was going to be a long night.

Nikki had left us hours ago for nicer accommodations in Railay, very smart move on her part. So, the PDX trio decided to make the most of it. We found some grub, some beer and some evening entertainment. The party of the night was a live reggae band covering Bob Marley, Jack Johnson, along with some of their own beats. It was jamm'n. Nothing like I've ever seen or experienced before. Locals were busting out their "twist and shout" moves, backpackers were jumping up and down, side to side, and the hippies were just swaying back and forth. All of this was taking place outside, a few steps from the beach under a clear, starry night's sky. I would have rather spent my entire evening at the bar than going back to my bungalow. But that's what traveling's about...experiencing it all. If I could survive one night of exotic insects, bed bugs and dirty conditions, I could survive anything :).

Pass the Bug Spray, Pronto!

rachellevagy — Wed, 25 Mar 2009 11:47:00 GMT

Thursday, March 12th was my first introduction to the breathtaking beaches of Southeast Thailand. Welcome to Ko Samui. The view out the window from the airplane was like flying into a dream land. I had been surrounded by noise and pollution for two weeks and couldn't wait to relax in paradise.

Once I made my way into town, I met up with Hannah and Molly, the dynamic duo from Portland. As mentioned in my past entries, I had planned on exploring SE Asia on my own, but once I found out that the ladies were on the same course, I jumped at the opportunity to explore with them. And what a treat. They are two of the most easy-going gals with a strong sense of adventure and always up for a good laugh.

They introduced me to my first island sunset. Although we were situated on the east side of the country, we still had a spectacular view of the bright yellows and purples meshing together above us. The ocean was calm and the sand under our feet was warm. It was picture perfect, until I felt a little prick on the back of my left arm. I had just been kissed by a mosquito.

I immediately whipped out my 50% Deet bug spray and showered myself with the toxic fumes. I escaped with a mild bite which was a constant reminder to apply the protective layer of Deet every evening before sunset. I never have to worry about "messie bites" back at home, but here, messies see everybody as dinner.

Random Messie Fact (according to a traveler from the UK I met in Bangkok): Consuming a shot or two of Jose Cuervo will decrease your chances of being bit. Apparently, the yellow substance in the tequila doesn't appeal to the messies. I haven’t tested this theory since tequila is not the beverage of choice around these parts, but I will open this challenge up to any of you and would love some feedback on your results.

The first night in Ko Samui was very chill. No drunken dance parties, no random encounters with foreigners, the three of us just wanted to sleep. And so we did. I was more concerned about waking up to run then waking up with a massive hang over.

My early morning run was glorious, but painful. It had been over a week since my last run, and the heat wasn't very forgiving. I ran directly to the beach, slowed my pace a little so I could actually enjoy the scenery and prevent fatigue. Samui was just waking up, so the beach was rather peaceful. Umbrellas were slowing popping up along the shoreline, couples were walking hand in hand on their early morning walks before breakfast, and vendors were slowly setting up shop in preparation for influx of tourists. The one thing I didn't prepare myself to see were other health-conscience/active travelers. A handful of these men were fit, but they covered themselves modestly so it wasn't as easy to define. The other bunch, well...let's just say they weren't bashful at all. Men in their 50's wearing nothing but brightly-colored Speedos were running, shuffling or grave-vining past me. I understand that this is common and accepted everywhere, except in the states, but it's something I had to point out.

The real highlight of my morning jog was a pleasant surprise. As I was running past one of the fancy beach-side resorts, I looked over to my right to find a girl trying to catch up with me. She was just inches away and it startled me...until I realized that it was my friend Franzie from the hostel in Bangkok! She had been enjoying her luxurious breakfast poolside and caught a glimpse of me running 50 feet away. I couldn't believe it! We caught up for a while and planned to meet later on that day before she went back home to Germany. It's absolutely crazy how things like this happen when you're traveling. This goes to prove that this world is itty bitty and there's always such a thing of being in the right place at the right time.

Fly'n High

rachellevagy — Tue, 24 Mar 2009 03:23:00 GMT

Spending six days in Bangkok, one night on a sleeper train and seven days in Chang Mai, I was more than ready slip into my swim suit, lather up the SPF 30 and head to the beaches of Thailand. I splurged on a plane ticket which cut my travel time from 24 hours to just under 3 hours. Thai Airways was flying at its finest. I had a short 45 minute hop from Chang Mai to Bangkok, where I was served lunch, water, tea and some overly-sweetened substance that they refer to as orange juice. My version of orange juice is sticking a straw straight through the orange and sucking the tangy goodness straight out. The Thais prefer the florescent orange powder stuff, highly visible with a black light. I tried it...I'll try everything once, and if I like it, I'll try it again. I've tried to follow that philosophy for the past few years, but it's been heightened quite a bit during my adventures in Thailand. Back to my hop to Bangkok. This must have been the shortest flight, even beats out the trip from Seattle to Portland. I didn't even have a chance to finish my chicken sandwich or my pineapple almond biscuit. My guess is that the pilot was trying to make up mad time in the air because I was right on target for missing my connection to Samui. As soon as the plane touched down, I made friends with a group of Israeli's who were also traveling to Samui. I figured I would stick with them...if I missed my flight, at least I would be in good company. Israelis are everywhere in Thailand. It's fantastic. Thanks to my two months of studying abroad in Tel Aviv, two years of Hebrew at UofA and my knowledge of Israeli Hip Hop, it's been very easy to make conversation. They all have so much to say about their country, their service in the army and they have always provided excellent recommendations for future holidays. The Israeli crew was on top of their game. They were a few steps ahead of me and were able to connect with the flight crew, who instructed us hop on a train to the other side of the terminal and run through the security check point. Just one minor mishap. One of the Israelis surrenders his hair gel. It was more than the 4 ounces of goodness...I couldn’t help but laugh! From security, we approached the gate and my heart jumped when I noticed that there was no plane in sight. I just wanted to get to the islands, was that too much to ask?! We soon learned that we had to take another bus from the gate to the actual airplane which was sitting on the runway waiting for us late arrivals. In Thailand, you can’t get from point A to point B without making at least 4 stops and 2 various modes of transportation. The shortest distance is never a straight line. They don’t believe in that here. The chaos soon melted away as I made my way to paradise. Two of my friends from Portland had already arrived in Samui a few days earlier and were waiting with open arms. Hannah and Molly are fantastic. I’ve really enjoyed traveling on my own and have learned a lot, but I’ve also been very fortunate to have connected with a taste of back home. The three of us all had a similar agenda for the islands...stay tuned for the adventures of the Ptown Trio.

Is That an Elephant Between Your Legs...Or Are You Just Happy to See Me?

rachellevagy — Mon, 23 Mar 2009 23:23:00 GMT

The last few days of my trip to Chang Mai was when the REAL adventure began! Chang Mai is noted for their treks and it was exactly what I was looking for. A red sungtuaw (a red truck with a covered bed...lined with benches) arrived at my guest house early morning and transported me and 10 other lucky trekkers up to the hills about an hour out of the city. Our first stop: Elephants!

Aside from seeing the in captivity at the zoos and some random elephants on the streets of Bangkok, this was my first encounter with these magnificent creatures! The typical protocol for an elephant ride would be two people seated comfortably on a metal bench on top of the elephants back. Yeah...that wasn't in the cards for me. The guides miscalculated the number of trekkers and I was stuck without a seat! The guide explained, not to worry, the elephants head was also an option. So, I hopped on with a bit of hesitation, knowing that the neck/head of the elephant was reserved for the locals. Despite the prickly hair and the constant snot shower on my legs, riding an elephant head on was the best seat in the house. I held on for dear life while going through the river, up the hills and through the woods, but that's what traveling is all about. Confronting fears, living each day to it's fullest and experiencing anything and everything with a smile.

The trek itself was fantastic, but it was the company that was stellar. It's really interesting to observe the dynamics of random groups of people. Everybody has their own story: from their homes thousands of miles away...from their traveling experiences...from everything. I've discovered that going on these organized excursions is one the best ways to discover new friendships. We had 24 straight hours together. Hiking up hill for 3 hours, pain, sweat, thirst...but doing it all together. Group dinners, beers, shots of rice whiskey and sing-a-longs with the locals...There's nothing else to do but talk and really get to know your new friends.

We all awoke to the obnoxious sounds of the roosters scrambling about outside our bamboo bungalow. It was an early morning wake up, but we had a lot to cover before we headed back to Chang Mai. Before I left for my trip, I asked my friends to give me travel tips and recommendations, and I have to give a shout out to Cheri, my supervisor from CK. She was brilliant in suggesting that I bring small gifts from the states, wrap em up and give them out when needed. I had a bunch of LiveStrong bracelets from my roommate, and some flashy red bike lights free from Bank of America. I brought a few of these gifts along with some pens and the village kids were all over them. The kids loved the lights and the bracelets, but their all time favorite was the pen. A simple plastic object full of liquid that is the most commonly stolen item in the US...and in my experiences, the most advertised piece of junk, is like gold to these kids. Next time I trek, I'm bringing OfficeMax with me!

After we said our good byes to the village, we were off to explore. The back country of Chang Mai was rather dry, brown and compared to the beautiful forests of Portland, not very beautiful. I guess coming from the NW scews my standards of beauty.

A few waterfalls laters, some more hiking along the river, white water rafting and a bamboo boat float, we approached the final destination of our voyage. The red truck. We were all sad to leave, but made plans to all get together that evening to celebrate. And...a celebration it was ;-).

You Know You're in Thailand When...

rachellevagy — Mon, 9 Mar 2009 15:24:00 GMT

Incoming calls and text messages are free (my new digits: +66 084 756 7401)

You walk into the bathroom or "toilet" and have no clue what to do

Everything is same, same, but different

Going to the market means never walking through a door or placing your items on a conveyor belt

At 8am and 6pm the national anthem is projected on loud speakers and the city comes to a halt to pay respect to the King

You get free samples of Redbull while filling up your gas tank

A glass of Coke cures an upset tummy

Mango sticky rice drizzled with coconut milk is dinner

Recycling takes a back seat

Mobile vendors dressed in brightly-colored tunics and hats attempt to sell you their merchandise, including wooden frogs that croak with the stroke of a stick. Annoying.

Fanta comes in all the colors of the rainbow

A 60 minute Thai massage is cheaper than ordering a microbrew at Bridgeport Brewery.

Being "on the job" means holding an oar and steering clear of dangerous rocks

The salt shaker containers sugar

Every item on the menu is accompanied by a photo of the dish

Even ya bahts got baht

Thai scrip is mistaken for Hebrew

Even the most run down houses own a satellite dish

Geckos here, geckos there, geckos everywhere

The sun looks like a bright pink Bubble Yum bubble fading into the sky

Backstreet Boys, Mariah Carey and Celine Dion are still topping the charts

Motor bikes, tuk tuks and automobiles completely ignore the fact that pedestrians exist

You can get by on a $10 a day food budget for the most delicious cuisine

Locals think you're going "kick boxing" when sporting running shorts and sneaks

English movie subtitles tell a completely different story from what's actually going on in the movie

Food carts and street markets line the streets until the wee morning hours

Young Thai women, wearing questionable and minimal clothing, strike up conversations with foreign businessmen on the street corners

Lonely Planet travel guides are carried like lunchboxes

You're questioned 50+ times a day by locals where you come from

Ping Pong is not table tennis

Toilet paper is the centerpiece for every meal

Bug spray with 50% deet doubles as perfume

The only imported beer starts with an "he" and ends with an "hein" and ends with "eken"

There are ten 7 11 drug stores in one square block

Red, White and Blue...Really?

rachellevagy — Mon, 9 Mar 2009 01:12:00 GMT

As stated in my previous entry, it is very rare to come across Americans while traveling. I must have some form of Ameri-dar (american radar) because everybody I have encountered these past few days have been from the states. Granted, I've met up with friends from home, but still, this is very peculiar! For example, today's agenda consisted of a full day cooking class outside of the city. The owner of the school made proper arrangements to pick me up from my hotel, along with a couple of the other American guys I met a few days ago. From there, we proceeded to pick up my friend Mike (from portland) and his buddy (from NY) and were soon introduced to another American couple from NY. The entire cooking class sported the red, white and blue. How is this possible? Ameri-dar.

For those of you who have experienced my cooking/mixing abilities in the kitchen, you'd be very impressed with my performance today. I chopped, pounded, fried and carved my way to a Thai cooking certification. The cooking school carted us to the market where we learned about curries, snake string beans and chilis. From there we headed to a beautiful house by the university where we created our array of Thai dishes. Watch out food critics, I'm bringing my knowledge of Thai cooking back with me to the states!

Most of yesterday was spent exploring the city of Chang Mai. Picture a square plate of spaghetti with the utensils properly placed at the side. The square plate represents the man-made moat surrounding all four sides of the city. The spaghetti relates to the roads, curving and winding every which way inside the moat. The streets make no sense and I've just been relying on landmarks to orient myself. You would think that the square moat around the old city would represent order and that they'd adopt a simple grid system...yeah...that never happened.

Once outside of the moat, there are few main roads that lead to a river (yes, this is real), the airport, university and some national parks. It's a congested city, still full of pollution from the multiple burnings going on, but it's much better than Bangkok. I actually managed to go for a run tonight and haven't coughed up a lung yet!

My tummy is requesting a meal, so I must sign off. There's a fantastic crepe stand around the corner waiting for me. Freshly made batter spread across a grill, with bananas and chocolate. Heaven in a Thai napkin, for 15 baht...roughly 50 cents. Perfection.

To the Greatest Traveling Companion...my scarf

rachellevagy — Sat, 7 Mar 2009 02:07:00 GMT

Yes, that may be a little odd considering my scarf hardly responds to my quirky comments, but it has been at my side through a majority of my travels here in Thailand. It's the best dollar I've ever spent. My bandana's life began at some textile factory somewhere in SE Asia...and fully matured on it's way to KaoSan Road, one of the hottest tourist destinations in Bangkok. KaoSan is a shopper's dream. Full of gadgets, tshirts, food, people, bars, and...my scarf. I first purchased it thinking it was going to be my one and only fashion accessory, but was clearly mistaken. This simple square piece of clothing has been my warmth in the subzero temperatures in the malls and transportation, a blanket, wash cloth, hand towel, skirt for the temples (once I make my way there) and today, it served the greatest purpose of all...an extra strap to secure my shoulder bag on my back during a motor scooter escapade. Thank you my precious scarf for always being at my side! I'll keep you all informed on future uses.

I spent a total of six days in Bangkok, much too long if you ask me. It was well worth staying the extra few days considering I got to meet up with a few friends from the past. As silly as this sounds, my favorite place in Bangkok is the most superficial...it's Hotel Lebua/State Tower. One of the most incredible sights in the skyline. It's fresh white exterior is glittered with semi circle balconies...for 50 floors. Set on top, a gold dome, which is also home to the skybar. 360 degree view of the city. Spectacular. Unfortunately, I've only had the luxury of seeing this during the day but will be venturing back in a few weeks to experience the after hours.

I parted ways with the pollution and congestion and headed up north to Chang Mai last night via train. These trains are brilliant. They convert into bunk beds in the evening, include AC, nice linens, excellent service and great company. A friendly German man approached me before the train left the station and began complaining about his mistake to not book first class. He was somewhat of a pompous asshole, but I figured he would humor me for a few minutes. He didn't leave...so, I made up some crazy excuse to brush my teeth and never returned. I ran into a group of 3 Amereicans (from Boston) who were living in Chang Mai and had some helpful insights. Not only were they informative, but it tops my random encounters with strangers. I am actually meeting up with them this evening for a beverage or two :).

Today has been full of surprises...of course. I checked into my hotel in the am hours after my 14 hour train ride, locked up my stuff and walked into the city. I would like to think that I have a good sense of direction, but I always have to confirm, especially now that I'm on my own in a foreign city for the first 2 hours of my visit. I was getting a little frustrated since I hadn't seen a single tourist on my journey to the city...but then, a miracle! 2 girls walking out of their guest house. I pounced...(well...not really) I asked if I was heading in the right direction, they say yes...and soon, we started chatting. The two girls were from Israel! Just my luck. And...to make this even more of a solo traveler's dream, they were meeting up with some Americans for lunch! Blah, blah, blah...no need to expand on the connections...it's just incredible how close you can get with somebody in 15 minutes while traveling. Unbelievable.

The Americans that I met for lunch had a day trip planned to see some natural park about an hour from the city, so I joined them...on a motor scooter. Probably one of the scariest things I have done this year, but I conquered it! The nature park was beautiful, but I still believe that Oregon tops the charts in that category. It's harder for me to appreciate natural beauty when Forest Park is my standard. A camp fire, coke's with the locals and a bbq later, I find myself here, updating my journal. This is only a fraction of my experience, but I had to write something. Must continue on with my night. A huge party awaits :)

ps...please disregard my spelling errors...blaming this one on the banana shake

Sweet, Sweet Bananas

rachellevagy — Mon, 2 Mar 2009 21:55:00 GMT

After three days of stuffing myself silly with pad thai and beer, I decided to grab a banana from the breakfast bar this morning. My first bite of a Thai banana was scrumptious and I'm not sure I will ever be able to appreciate an American banana. My banana was perfectly yellow and tasted like it was injected with cane sugar. Did I mention this inspired me to sport my yellow running shorts today?

I'm going to back it up a few days. I finally caught up on my zzzz's after 60+ hours of no sleep. I'm not sure how I powered through those few days...and without any caffiene! A miracle!

I've discovered many benefits of traveling solo, including the itch to reach out and talk and connect with everybody I encounter. I have 2 bunkmates who are also traveling alone the next few days and they've been incredible. One is from Germany, the other from Columbia, and the three of us have been on so many new adventures these past few days. There are so many ways to travel throughout the city of Bangkok: Taxi, Bus, Motorbike, Skytrain and my new favorite, the tuk tuk. The tuk tuk is a three-wheeled, gasoline-powered wagon that zips through the streets like a wild animal. It's a fantastic way to view the city and I'm now notorious for just sticking my camera out and snapping blind shots of the city streets. Tuk tuks are super cheap, especially when you speak a little bit of Thai and are familiar with bartering. An entire day of traveling around the city cost me less than a dollar. Unbelievable!

You would think after the amount of layoffs these past few months in the states, that there would be a handful of Americans traveling the world, but I guess I've been mistaken. Until last night, I had not met a single American. Lots of British, German, Australian travelers, but nobody from the states. I was passing through the lobby after dinner and spotted 3 Americans playing Jenga. Finally! We started chatting and soon enough, we ended up having our first beer at a bar down the street. One beer turned into my first Bangkok pub crawl. My bunkmate, Sandra, and I were highly entertained by our new American friends. They clearly were fresh out of college, due to their wild tendencies to drink copious ammounts of alcohol in one sitting. Not to mention their obsession with tequila. Ouch.

Thanks to a giant bottled water from 7-11 (which I substituted for my beer halfway through the evening) I woke up feeling fresh and ready to rock Bangkok!

Today, our tuk tuk driver, Mr. Porn, revealed that he gets gasoline $$$ for shuttling us to one of his "dealers." When you hop onto a tuk tuk, you must know that you're not just going to be going to your destination of choice. You get hasseled into visiting tailors, jewelers, etc. I've been warned about this from fellow travelers, but I wanted to see what this was about. It's a brilliant business tactic, yet annoying for travelers that don't have the time or patience to deal with the runaround. It worked out in our favor considering my friend ended up purchasing a tailor-made skirt this afternoon. During the process, we were all handed 3 cans of ice cold Singha beer from the tailors to celebrate her purchase.

Another highlight today was the Grand China Princess Hotel (thank you Hayden for the rec!) Chinatown is rather dirty and congested, but once you arrive at this hotel, you feel at ease! The three of us took the elevator to the 25th floor and treated ourselves to green tea ice cream while overlooking the entire skyline of Bangkok. Did I mention this city is huge? 10 million people, and who knows how many millions of tourists!

Three days in Bangkok, and three more to go. I feel like I've been gone for weeks. Ahhhh. I love this.

8-)

Sleepless in Bangkok

rachellevagy — Sat, 28 Feb 2009 10:56:00 GMT

I can't stop singing "One night in Bangkok and the world's your oyster
The bars are temples but the pearls ain't free..." It's a cheesy theme song for my first evening here, but it must be done.

My adventure has begun. After 31 hours of traveling, 3 airports, 3 TV lunches/dinners and countless glasses of water, I have finally arrived at my destination. The flying wasn't too shabby considering I strategically asked for the the exit row on my flights to Narita (Tokyo) and Bangkok and was delighted. Not only was there ample leg room, but I could have easily rolled out a few yoga mats for some high altitude vinyasa. Sadly, that didn't happen, but I did manage to sit through 5 movies. Yes, 5 movies. For those of you who aren't familiar with my movie-watching ability, I give myself an F.

I was easily distracted (yet still seated) during these movies by my new Argentinian friend who also got the isider tip to requesting an exit row. He had just flown out of Salt Lake City where he had worked at a ski lodge for a few months on a break from school...and was on a spontaneous trip to visit his girlfriend in Thailand. I love that traveling is so natural for everybody else in the world, yet as Americans, we tend to cling to what's familiar. I haven't even been in Bangkok for 7 hours but I can see why traveling is key.

My new friend, Thomas, and I landed in Narita and took a 2 hour, self-guided tour of the airport. I immediately grabbed my camera and stated snapping shots of the art, plants, recycling canisters...Yeah, I was that obnoxious tourist with the flash. As silly as this sounds, the best part of the airport was the kid's corner. If you all are interested, I am accepting students for: Paper Folding 101. I led a mini class on origami frogs, hats, sumo wrestlers...even the Japanese lady hopped aboard.

Enough about the airport...onto my hostel. It's beautiful. www.lubd.com is where it's at. Free internet, 24 hour bar, entertainment center and SQUEAKY clean! I attemped to get some shut eye around midnight but I just couldn't relax. The beds are fantastic, but how do you sleep when you've got an entire adventure ahead of you?! So, I hopped downstairs to the movie lounge in an attempt to be social and met some cool guys from London who I ended up hanging out with for the rest of the twilight hours.

I'm sure I will be relying heavily on coffee to get me through the next few days of jet lag, but there's so much to see and I don't want to miss any of it.