On the Loose

Gallery: Bhutan 4

poeanne — Fri, 16 Oct 2009 11:41:00 GMT

Gallery: Bhutan 3

poeanne — Fri, 16 Oct 2009 11:32:00 GMT

Gallery: Bhutan 2

poeanne — Fri, 16 Oct 2009 11:18:00 GMT

Gallery: Hong Kong

poeanne — Wed, 7 Oct 2009 16:47:00 GMT

Hong Kong

The search for Becca's Perfect Gift - Hong Kong in a day

poeanne — Fri, 2 Oct 2009 00:39:00 GMT

Thursday October 1, 2009

We have one day in Hong Kong. It started with Anne teaching a class first thing this morning due to the 12 hour time difference. As soon as the class was over, we talked to the concierge at the hotel and got a Macau map and directions in broken English to the ferry terminal via the subway. We walked through an outlet mall, found the subway and navigated our way through two different lines to the ferry. We walked up purchased a ticket and boarded the ferry which left a minute later. The trip to Macau took an hour. During the trip we studied our map and realized that there was a Hard Rock Hotel in Taipi. Better you never heard of Taipi, we certainly haven't but now we can say we have been.

We went through customs when we arrived in Macau and then caught a bus to "City of Dreams." When we arrived we were disappointed to find out that the Hard Rock Hotel and Casino did not have a Hard Rock Cafe. We were looking forward to a meal without rice. Instead we visited the food court and split a single hamburger and fries at zetty hamburger stand. Can't wait to find a McDonalds!

The next challenge was jumping on the local buses to find a place recommended to us to find the gift we needed to get Becca. We got to the stop, got off and went on our search. About every 5th person we stopped spoke some english and gave us directions. We were definitely in an area that tourists did not visit because we were the only gaijins in town. We kept getting deeper and deeper in this maze of shops where people were hawking scorpions, snake, and this beef jerky stuff that was labeled as beef, pork, and meat. Swear to god it all looked exactly the same. We rounded the corner and Anne saw the store we were searching for and we went in and found the most perfect gift. We are putting together all three of our resources to make sure we get it back in one piece during out epic 21 hours of flying.

We jumped back on the local buses and made it back to the ferry terminal and took a ferry back to Hong Kong. When we arrived we took a taxi to Victoria Peak where we purchased our obligatory Hard Rock shirts. We left on another taxi to Outback steakhouse. We were so looking forward to a steak, baked potato and iced tea. After 3 weeks of no fried food, the sudden intake of fried food really wrecked havoc on our digestive track.

After leaving Outback we watched the fireworks display. Today is the 60th anniversary of China's rule as a communist country. It is a national holiday. We then made our way back to the hotel and got in about 10PM. We have confirmed our flights and retiring to bed to get up early early. We are facing 21 hours of flying tomorrow to return home.

Four Countries in 12 hours

poeanne — Thu, 1 Oct 2009 11:21:00 GMT

Well our trip to Bhutan ends today. We got up early, ate breakfast and then went to the airport. It was emotional saying goodbye to our guide and driver. We were surprised to see both Druk Airlines airplanes on the tarmac at the same time. These two planes are the only planes allowed to fly in and out of Bhutan. Right before we left they rolled out a red carpet and Her Royal Highness, the 4th King’s youngest sister, boarded the flight with her son and a high ranking government minister. Our flight to Bangkok made a transit stop in Calcutta, India which allowed me to add another check on my list to join the Traveler’s Century Club. Unfortunately I think we got the 2nd best pilot at Druk Airlines.

Today was a perfect training day for Anne & I as we prepare to win the Amazing Race next year. We visited 4 countries in 12 hours. We finally arrived in Hong Kong right before midnight.

The reason d’être for our trip

poeanne — Thu, 1 Oct 2009 11:15:00 GMT

The reason d’être for our trip happened today. We climbed to Taktsang Monastery which is also known as the Tiger’s Nest. This monastery is the best known shrine in Bhutan and all Bhutanese people will try to make a pilgrimage here at least once in your life.

Yesterday afternoon we got our first rain we have seen on our trek through four countries. The guide was worried and said that if it was raining this morning that we would not be able to climb because the rain would make the path too slippery and dangerous. I put my foot down and said even if there was a flood of biblical proportions I was climbing to that monastery. When we woke up this morning, I rushed to the window to check the weather. I could not see the sun as the clouds were low and even blocking views of the mountain. It was not raining. Our guide said the Gods were favoring us today.

The tour books claim that it takes 45 minutes to reach the tea room and from there it is another hour and 30 minutes to the monastery. Our climb to the tea room took an hour and a half. It was a steep climb. We got into the rhythm of taking 5 steps, stop and breath deeply, repeat. As we reached the top of the mountain, we were devastated to see steps that went down and back up to reach the monastery. Later we counted and there are 788 steps one way. These steps would make any aerobic class look like a picnic. It took us over three and a half hours to reach the monastery. All I can say is that it was worth every step to make it to that monastery.

At the entrance to the monastery we made a group picture with our guide who was wearing the Georgia bulldog t-shirt we gave him. The monastery has statues and treasures that are priceless. The monastery was completed destroyed in a fire in 1999 but miraculously none of the statues and treasures were damaged even though all the buildings were completely destroyed. I guess the god’s know what to protect and what is worth letting go.

It took about an hour to traverse the 788 steps. Right when we though Mother could not take another step, Anne was ahead rounded a corner and saw the most amazing site. There was an older Bhutanese woman in traditional steps standing there with a prayer wheel telling Anne that she could make it. Anne turned to us and told us what she saw and said the lady has the most angelic look on her face. When we reached her, she was smiling as advertised. We took pictures. I climbed up and showed her the picture on my camera. As I climbed down she chanted om mani padme hum. I repeated the chant back to her. I am convinced the lady was a figment of our imagination but why question the blessings of a gods that favor you.

Our round trip climb took five and a half hours. The gods clearly favored us because they kept the clouds low blocking the sun. By the time we started descending the sun was up and it was very hot but the gods decided to have a quick rain shower that cooled the temperature down 10 degrees.

When we finally reached the car, we were devastated to learn that a gentleman tourist from Germany died instantly of a heart attack at the tea room. There was not much they could do and they strapped the body to a horse which took it down. The wife was unable to make the climb to the tea room so she had turned around and was not aware what had happened. I cannot imagine being in a foreign country and having to deal with the death of your spouse so we keep her in our prayers.

After that long trek we stopped at Drukel Dzong which burned in the 1950s so it is basically a ruin. The government has no plans to rebuild it so it is preserved in its present condition. It was brutal climbing up to the Dzong after already climbing for five and a half hours. Anne and I made the visit and mother stayed in the car.

Ugen, the Bhutanese man living in America who runs Wind Horse Tours, came home to Bhutan yesterday. Today he stopped at the hotel just to visit us. They were filming hotels to create a DVD to send to potential clients. He interviewed me and if I make it on the DVD that will be my 15 minutes of fame.

At dinner we had drinks and celebrated our success.

Big Festival in Thimphu

poeanne — Thu, 1 Oct 2009 11:14:00 GMT

Monday September 28, 2009

Beautiful day for the festival, but we had an embarrassing start when the guard at the gate deemed our Capris inappropriate. Our guide made a quick cell call for the driver to return with out clothes. We made a quick change in the van and started again. Local women and girls - from the oldest to the youngest - wear Kiras, a long wrap-around dress or half Kiras, a long skirt with jacket. All are very colorful and most beautiful. A few westerners had purchased their own Kira for the occasion.

The festival is still held at the massive Tashicho Dzong, about 700 years old. Now, however, the festival has been moved from the inner courtyard to a large arena just outside. It was built for the coronation of the new king in 2008. We had good "fifty-yard-line" with 30,000 of our new Bhutan friends. One interesting lady wedged herself in between Jennifer and I and promptly offered Jen beetle nut to chew. See the picture of her red mouth and teeth. Another lady offered us peaches - the smallest, knottiest, greenish peaches we Georgians had ever seen. The guide signaled "DON'T EAT"!!!

The performing dancers all wear very colorful, elaborate costumes. The Black Hat dance typically opens a festival to drive all evil spirits away. Since it lasts for one solid hour, we usually turned out attention to the interesting people around us. We hope we've captured their beautiful spirit in our photographs.

After a full morning of music and dancing, we drove to Paro and our hotel, Gangtey Palace. On the way, we stopped to watch an archery tournament. Archery is the national sport and taken very seriously. The archers are amazingly accurate from a long way away. After each bulls eye, the team members do a traditional dance and sing. We also visited Kichu Lhakhang, built in the seventh century and one of the oldest temples in Bhutan. The story goes that a giant demoness lay across Tibet and the Himalayas and was preventing the spread of Buddhism. To overcome her, King Songtsen Gampo decided to build 108 temples in a single day to pin the ogress to the earth forever. We also saw Paro Rinoung Dzong, consecrated in 1645, and built without a single nail. From there we hiked to our hotel.

From Wangdue festival to Thimphu

poeanne — Thu, 1 Oct 2009 11:13:00 GMT

Sunday September 27

This morning we attended the Wangdue festival. During the event an elderly lady stood next to me. After talking I learned that she was from Denmark by way of Isle of Skye, Scotland. Quite fascinating to see that she was in Bhutan trekking by herself and she looked like she was in her late 60's. After attending the festival, we visited the Dzong. Before driving to Thimphu we had lunch at a restaurant on the river. We saw our first group rafting down the river which creates white water no matter where you look. Lo and behold the Scot lady was at the same restaurant having lunch.

After lunch we drove to Thimphu from Wangdue. It was a long almost 5 hour drive just to cover 100 miles. When we arrived we stopped at a park at the convergence of two rivers. From here we had a good vantage point of the Thimphu Dzong. Almost five centuries ago an oracle told the King that he will build a fort at the point where two rivers meet that is guarded by a sleeping elephant. With some imagination, the hill that joins the two rivers looks like sleeping elephant with a long nose. For this reason the Thimphu Dzong was built on this site. The only way to access the Dzong is by crossing a wooden bridge built over 500 years ago and it is still standing.

After visiting the Dzong, we drove to our hotel which is on the hill facing the Dzong. We were exaushted when we arrived so we all laid down to take a nap. About half hour later a couple from California checked in and they were traveling with a lady from UK. They decided to explore the other rooms and just walked right into our room. We were too exhausted to get up so we talked to them. They are frequent travelers also and it was nice to talk about places we have all been.

At dinner we had the usual white rice with mixed vegetables and a side of ema datsi and bread.

The National Animal

poeanne — Thu, 1 Oct 2009 11:12:00 GMT

This morning, we hiked up to a good vantage point for seeing the sights of Thimphu. Prayer flags were flying everywhere, and you guessed it . . . Cows were roaming everywhere. If we haven't stressed this point, let me do it now. Cows are sacred. It is a sin to kill a cow. Cows are not fenced in, only Yaks. There are no McDonalds!!!!! One would think that cows would be the national animal, but no. The national animal of Bhutan is the Takin. Don't feel bad if you've never heard of it. It is rare, only found in Bhutan, and is the strangest beast you will ever see. We hiked up to a nature preserve where a very small herd lives protected. Another small group lives in the wilds in the central part of the country. There was a new calf, so that's a good sign. A takin looks like a mix of a cow, moose and goat and is a very clumsy-looking animal. See photos

A free afternoon gave us an opportunity to walk around the town. We bought a few things, mostly books. At a small bookstore, we met the wife of the photographer Punap Ugyen Wangchuk whose wonderful photographs make up "Bhutan, Portraits and Landscapes." This country, the last of the Himalayan kingdoms to be explored, is a photographer's paradise. The central and eastern part is virtually untouched, and the faces of the people are irresistible if you have a camera in your hands. They are beautiful, open and pure. The experience of being here, even for a short time, is an unforgettable experience.

Bhutan and more Temples

poeanne — Sat, 26 Sep 2009 00:14:00 GMT

Friday, September 25, 2009

After a teaching session and buckwheat pancakes for breakfast, we were anxious for our visit to Jampel Monastery, the oldest one in Bhutan. It was built in 649 A.D. and was filled with older people – all of them character studies – making the Kora, a walk around the exterior.

Afterwards, we hiked to Kurzey Temple via a narrow farm lane with wild marijuana growing on either side. Turnips, Buckwheat and rice were growing in small plots along the way. Over a beautiful stream and through a pasture, we finally arrived at the temple that dates from 1562. It is the holiest of all temples in Bhutan. This is where Guru Rampochey, the second Lord Buddha, meditated for six months in a cave and left his body imprint on the stone wall. The first temple was erected over this cave site. Subsequent temples have been built, and several members of the royal family have been cremated and buried here.

We hiked on to one of the first royal palaces, now mostly in ruins, with a few monks living in one wing. We stopped for a short while to see the posh Aman Hotel. Rooms are 1,200 dollars a night, but as Jennifer says, “That includes tax! It’s out in the middle of farm land with an unpaved lane leading to front door. Guess what’s also growing along this lane. It’s a very sterile place with no clues as to what country one is visiting.

We talked to a group of eight older Australian ladies who were in the east when the earthquake hit. Their lodging was so badly damaged that they were forced to sleep outside for two nights before the road was cleared enough for safe passage. The National Highway is the only road that runs from west to east, and is very rudimentary, to say the least.

More notes to more cute people.

Becca: We thank you everyday for what you are doing for Anne back home. She could not have been here without your help.

Dr. Jim and Glenda: Today, for the first time, Anne and I Carol,felt the need to be heavily medicated when Jennifer made an offering at Bhutan’s oldest temple. Next to an ear of corn, a perfect peach and several small pieces of money, guess what Jen’s offering was? She offered our Nutter Butters!!!!!!!!!!!

Betty: We feel like you are traveling with us, and we like having you here.

Bumthang

poeanne — Thu, 24 Sep 2009 10:49:00 GMT

Wednesday, Sept. 23, 2009

Blessed easy day.

Before leaving Throngsa for Jakar, we stopped at a wonderful museum funded and restored by the Austrian government. They took a 17th century tower in ruins and performed a miracle. While we were in the upper courtyard, we saw the prime minister's motorcade when they made a refreshment stop below. He is headed east to access the earthquake damage.

When we stopped at Yotongla Pass, the motorcade passed us. The Prime Minister was fast asleep in the front seat of second car, and we completely understood. Long drives over slow winding roads. Drive today is only 2.5 hours.

After reaching Jakar, we visited the Jakar Dzong. A Dzong was originally built as a fortress, but today each one is half governmental and half religious - administrative with housing for monks.

We visited the town, took pictures of precious children and some adults, bought t-shirts, and listen to this: We seemed to be craving certain foods, so we asked the guide if there was popcorn in Bhutan. He rushed out and found someone who would pop a batch for us. It took five minutes, and the corn was delivered in a sheep of newspaper.

Free afternoon for rest. Good nights sleep. We are truly happy dwarfs.

Check out our video of the roads to central Bhutan

Gallery: Bhutan

poeanne — Thu, 24 Sep 2009 10:38:00 GMT

Gallery: Nepal

poeanne — Thu, 24 Sep 2009 10:37:00 GMT

Kathmandu

To the heart of Bhutan

poeanne — Wed, 23 Sep 2009 21:16:00 GMT

Tuesday September 22, 2009. With the time difference Anne had to teach 3 more college classes that started at 5:00 AM local time and went to 8:30AM. Anne and I stayed up until after midnight last night grading her papers and getting her caught up on her coursework. While Anne was teaching Mother and I went downstairs for breakfast. Here in Bhutan I had a full English breakfast. Anne had pancakes with the local honey (nothing like Honey in America) and she swears they were the best she had ever eaten.

As soon as Anne finished her last class at 8:30AM we packed up, ran downstairs and jumped into the van and left the hotel at 8:40AM. We are making the trip from Thimphu to Trongsa which is only 300 kilometers but the trip takes over seven hours. The trip went over several mountain ranges and down into rain forest like valleys. The monsoon season had taken its toll at one point and it had washed away the road. We had a standoff when a buss and dump truck tried to pass at the same time and neither could make it. Everyone got out of their car and after some negotiation it was decided all the oncoming cars would backup so our direction could pass. During this melee we meet Daniel Spitzer who is planning a large project to plant Hazelnut trees that is expected to hire 10-15% of the population.

Around lunch time we stopped on the side of the road for an elaborate picnic with 5 dishes over rice. Every dish prepared with hot peppers. Check out our picture gallery. Later we stopped and saw silver monkeys jumping in the tree. They are called silver languer.

In the evening we finally reached Trongsa and checked into Hotel Jumolhari. It is a wonderful, small hotel with every room having views of the impressive Trongsa Dzong. We went and visited the Dzong this evening. This Dzong was built in 1648. Dinner consisted of dishes prepared with hot peppers over rice. I asked waiter for Naan bread to complement our meal. We ate two orders of the bread and it may have been the best bread in the world.

The air here is so clean and fresh. There is no pollution. We slept with the window open and to the sounds of the river down below.

Arrival in Bhutan via Everest

poeanne — Wed, 23 Sep 2009 21:02:00 GMT

Monday September 21, 2009.

Early this morning, Jennifer took a small plane ride to get a close up view of Mt. Everest. It wasn't as thrilling as our landing in Paro, Bhutan.

A picture (or video) is worth a thousand words. Take a look.

We were bowled over seeing this country for the first time. The air is fresh and crisp, and the sky is the clearest and bluest you will ever see. It is clean, clean, clean. No trash any where. Our little boutique hotel is just the best, and the meal tonight was absolutely delicious. First time we can say that with a straight face. Jennifer tried the native dish called ema dasi. It consists of peppers hotter than anything we have eaten in our lives. In Bhutan, all cooking must use peppers. There is no escaping peppers. Every other house has peppers drying on their tin roofs and it gives it a bright red look. We are already loving this country that prompted the whole trip.

After landing in Paro we made the 60K drive to the capital city of Thimphu. The drive took almost 2 hours. They were very proud that the road had been widen last year for the King's coronation. Even if it is "widened" no two cars can pass side by side. There are lay by's everywhere and they have to be used to pass oncoming vehicles.

Dawgs in Kathmandu

poeanne — Wed, 23 Sep 2009 20:56:00 GMT

Sunday September 20, 2009

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You’ll never guess how we started our Sunday morning. Well, maybe you can. We were up at 5:00 a.m. for Anne to catch up on school work, but in our quiet corner of the lobby where we had wireless, we got live feed of the Georgia-Arkansas game. It was not, I must say, like seeing a game in Sanford Stadium or watching one on the Prokasy’s big screen. But for three desperate nomads, it was a somewhat close third. What a way to start a day! Thank you ESPN, and thank you Dawgs.

Our guide came at 8:30 and waited until the game was over. He may be a Georgia fan now. We drove for an hour seeing herds of goat and water buffalo gathered for the festival. I won’t elaborate on the sacrifice part as I am trying to think only that people will have meat for the festival. The ancient city of Bhaktapur is one of the most interesting destinations so far. Most of the houses here date from the 16^th century, and the Royal Palace from the 15^th century. When the palace was built, it had 55 windows, a large number for a structure at that time. Afterwards, no building was allowed to have 55 or more windows. Temple Square is dominated by a large, five-story temple, built by the king for his wife. It is now the most popular temple in the country. Recordings of the chant, Om Mani Padme Hum, were being played all over the small town. “The Little Buddha” was filmed in Palace Square where we visited the palace and found the royal bath guarded by a huge cobra very interesting.

Next, and we were all leery of this, we went to Pashupatinath, the holy cremation site on the river. Both Buddhist and Hindus use this site. When the ceremony is finished, the ashes are swept into the river. We were horrified that small children were swimming only a short distance downstream. The guide assured us that they were used to that water, having bathed and swam in it all their lives.

Lunch was in an upstairs restaurant looking out on the Bodhnath.Stupha. Afterwards, we made the ceremonial walk around it’s base.

We had dinner a short distance from the hotel in a typical local restaurant where you sat on cushions on the floor. We were entertained by singers, dancers and large costumed animals. Lots of food, some of it edible.

Kathmandu, How DO you do?

poeanne — Sun, 20 Sep 2009 12:42:00 GMT

Saturday September 19, 2009

Leaving Lhasa, we were thoroughly searched, and our temperatures were taken. There is much that could be said here about the situation in Tibet but will not be at this time. I can safely say, however, that the Chinese airport security makes TSA look ridiculously inept.

The flight from Lhasa to Kathmandu was 50 minutes with a time change of two hours and 15 minutes. Odd, agree? Good flight with a beautiful sighting of Mount Everest. The pilot made a little semi-circle toward and away from the mountain so everyone could take in this incredible view. One could look at Jennifer and see the wheels turning as she thought about her own Everest climb.

We were met at the airport by our guide, Buddi, and treated to a mini excursion by the royal palace, with an explanation of the recent changes in the government. After the royal family was murdered, followed by an unsettling time being ruled by the king’s nephew, Nepal became a republic in 2008 with a president and parliament. The palace is now a museum. Our hotel is the five-star Yak and Yeti, our one spurge hotel. While this is a vast improvement over our hotel in Lhasa, it would not be a five-star hotel anywhere else in the world.

Our afternoon tour started with a drive out to Swayambhunath , The Monkey Temple. And yes, there were monkeys running free everywhere. The huge, white Stupa was quite impressive as were the memory stones. Easy to see why this is a UNESCO site. Another UNESCO site is the Medieval-feeling Dunbar Square. Before 2008, all but pedestrian traffic was banned. Now it is total bedlam and very loud. Here we saw the sacred, 12^th century temple built from a single tree. Then on to the Temple of the Living Goddess, where we heard about the four-and-a-half-year-old beautiful child rules until puberty. Before returning to the hotel, we walked through the local market street busy with everyone preparing for the upcoming festival. We all agreed that this was the most intense experience so far – The narrow street was packed, wall to wall, with hundreds of people mixed in with cars, motor bikes, rickshaws, and as we might say in the south, “I don’t know what all.” It was hot and so, so loud. After a brief rest from all that turmoil, we went to a typical Nepalese restaurant with local dancers, singers and costumed Yaks, Yetis, and peacocks. Great way to end a very good day.

Searching for Shangri-La

poeanne — Sun, 20 Sep 2009 12:40:00 GMT

Friday September 18, 2009

Shangri-la is not a place.

It is within yourself.

Today, we are free. No tours, no excursions, no climbing.

And today we with replenished our carry ons with all clean clothes. Life is good. And, want to hear something really funny? We all agree that we brought too many clothes and stuff.

Following the suggested route from “Lonely Planet”, we decide to explore Old Town. Life is much more real here with hardly any military, and the people are friendly and helpful. Local venders are everywhere selling everything from yak butter to antique jewelry. And listen to this, Carol Poe, we even found pop corn, something like kettle corn back home. One young man was selling jewelry and old relics so cheap, you almost feel guilty buying anything – and, on top of that, everyone expects you to haggle. It’s almost like a game they enjoy. We bought several things from him, but left feeling like we could have easily purchased his whole stand. Not because we had the money (Don’t be silly.), but a carryon can only hold so much!

We stopped and stepped in The House of Shambhala just because Anne saw an interesting necklace in the inconspicuous shop window. When she asked the price, a woman, who could not speak, ran next door and returned with a very tall, very impressive looking man. Turns out, he is Laurence Brahm, author of “Searching for Shangri-la.” I couldn’t believe the author of the book I meant to read before the trip just walked in the door, and I told him so. He asked me if I believed in karma. He spent a lot of time with us despite the fact that he was leaving shortly for Hong Kong where a book-signing tour started. Turns out he has written more than 30 books. The House of Shambhala is an ancient, rambling structure that he has restored and turned into a small hotel, spa, and restaurant. Really well done, all of it. The shop, we discovered, sold only items made by handicapped Tibetans. We bought some of his books which he took the time to autograph, and we later had lunch in the little upstairs restaurant. The interior reminded all of us of Jim Thompson house in Bangkok. Only the best Tibetan antiques have been used, and the renovation is most impressive. The whole complex is tucked away on a back street that we found only by following the old town route. We also purchase interesting hand-made paper items on the way back to our hotel.

Tonight we have our last dinner with the guide we have loved. Actually, I have fallen in love with the Tibetan people. They are kind, friendly and always praying even doing the most mundane daily things. No one is without prayer beads or a prayer wheel. I grieve for their fate. Their country is occupied, and they have lost their freedom, but still they remain spiritual, almost holy.

When reflecting on why we made the climbs up to the temples and monasteries, I know this much is true: When finally reaching the top, our senses have been bombarded with incense, flickering butter lambs, chanting and the low sounds of the common people praying.

Om Mani Padme Hum, Om Mani Padme Hum, Om Mani Padme Hum is still sounding in your head long after you have left the mountain. Also remaining for me is the exhilaration I feel and more importantly, the sense of peace.

Notes to cute people:

Kevin: Thank you so much for sending Lorna Doones. I have never had then before and most likely will never have them again, but today in Tibet, they are my favorite food.

Dick: What would I have done without the almonds?

Betty: We have all enjoyed hearing your cute and clever comments.

This is the last steps ... I promise

poeanne — Sun, 20 Sep 2009 12:35:00 GMT

Thursday September 17, 2009

We did not start our touring until noon today because my sister teaches college classes online. She teaches 4 classes every Wednesday evening almost back to back over 4 hours back home. But with the time difference the class would start at 6:45AM Thursday morning here in Lhasa. So for the next 5 hours Mother and I had to sit quiet in the room as Anne taught her college classes.

We had moved to a new room last night and we took the oxygen canister from the original room to the new room. In the middle of one of the classes, our room door opened and the housekeeping lady rushed in and asked about the oxygen. It is comical because it is half English, half Tibetan and lots of hand movements to ask where we got the oxygen canister. I was trying to communicate with the housekeeping lady when we realized Anne was violently waving her arms trying to get our attention to tell us to shut up. Her students could hear the commotion in the room and wanted to know what was going on. She explained to her students that we were in Tibet. One student wanted to know if that was near Ireland. Nothing like public education is there?

Anne finished her last class at 11:30AM. By 11:32 we had shut down the computer and ran out the door to try this restaurant called Tashi I that Lonely Planet recommended. The guidebook gave high praise to this meal called a Bobi. So we tried a chicken Bobi, french fries, and cheesecake for lunch. It may have been the best food we had eaten in a long time. It is amazing to get so excited about eating something that you really don't know what it is but it was fantastic. We ordeded seconds. We ate everything in under 10 minutes because we had to rush back to the hotel to meet our guide at noon.

The day started out better than yesterday since Mother seems to be almost recovered from the altitude sickness. Anne actually did not have to visit the bathroom at all last night but she is sucking on the oxygen as soon as she gets up. Thank goodness we bought a bottle of Ibuprofin that had 1,000 pills. They are taking these to try to help with the headaches. Our guide promised that today would be an easy day and we would only be visiting just two monastaries. Is lying possible in the Tibetan language.

We drove outside of the city to the Norbunga Monastary. As we approached we could see it up on the hill. The van was slow going as it climbed up the hill to the monastary. Once we got out we could see a few stairs that were quite steep. As we started out Mother was concerned about the steps. The guide pointed up the hill and said the monastary is right there. So off we started. We got halfway up the stairs that disappeared around a corner and had to stop. A little further up we saw a prayer wheel and we stopped again. We got to the corner and lo and behold there were more steps heading up and disappearing around the corner. Guide promised that the monastary was just right around the corner. We should have asked which corner.

We kept climbing and stopping, climbing and stopping, climbing and stopping. We almost reached a point that Mother couldn't decide if it would hurt more to keep going up and trying to go back down all the steps we just came up. As we kept climbing up we could hear the monks praying and chanting. The guide said they were doing their morning prayers. When we finally reached what we thought was the entrance, the monks left the assembly hall since they had finished morning prayers. We got some great pictures of young and old monks.

As we started our tour of the monastary we had to climb yet some more steps. I thought my Mother could have killed the guide. I am glad that I purchased this ultra light weight backpack before the start of the trip. I carried 3 bottles of water with me and Mother and Anne have been drinking them. We finally got in the monastary and started walking between the different rooms. After we walked through a few rooms, we would come outside and have to walk up some more stairs to the next room. The guide was first and he would tell Mother that they are the last steps. He would walk up the stairs and stop and wait for us. Anne would come up next and would immediately see that there were more steps and then look over and see that the guide was laughing. Anne would wait for Mother to come up next who would see that there more stairs. As Mother fussed about the steps, the guide had to put his paper up to his mouth and bite down to keep from laughing in front of my mother. I brought up the rear and I just kept giving water to my Mother. This scene kept repeating itself enough times that Anne and I were starting to enjoy watching my Mother's reaction. We finished the tour finally and made it back to the van.

We next drove over to the other side of town to the mountains to Sera Monastary. Sera is one of the three most holiest monastaries in all of Tibet. It is famous for their debating monks. If the Dali Lama dies, the monks at Sera and two other monastaries meet to discuss how they will find the person who is his reincarnation and will be the next Dali Lama. As the van approached the base of the mountain we could see building built way up the mountain side