Paddling in a sea of difference

Sleepless in Tokyo

picslyrics — Tue, 5 Apr 2011 00:54:00 GMT

The blue Facebook pages show on every hostel computer, shabby looking travelers draped themselves on the shabbier looking couch and the true backpacker – always keeping and eye on the budget – is eating cheap noodles in the hostel kitchen. I'm back to living in hostels for a while.

I’m eager to get some sleep but the jetlag and the loud snoring sounds my travelmate is producing are not humoring me. If he's lucky, he dreams about all the adventures that are upon us during our trip through Central- and South-East Asia for 6 months! Tomorrow will be our first day, which starts in Japan.

I look at the time. It’s 2 am. Luckily I did managed to get some sleep on the flight from Dubai to Tokyo.

Our neighbour on the flight, a chatty African chap from Sudan, immediately began talking to us. I inconspicuously sat back and silently listened while my mate did all the talking. A role that suits me well when I feel like it.

We soon learned that you should never ask an African man how many children he has. “I know how many children my wife has”, he says laughing, “but an African man does not know by heart how many children he has”. I wondered if this is a cultural difference or a matter of testosterone? It turned out that the last has not so much to do with it, but loyalty has. He feels responsible for every member of his extended family, from uncles and aunts to nieces and nephews.

Our worldtrip just started and already we got a lesson in culture right there and then. I did not expect our first lesson to be about Africa, but one of the great things about traveling is that it extends your world beyond expectations.

At the end of the flight we discovered that our new friend is the Sudan ambassador in Tokyo. He gave us his business card and said: “Give us a call, because in this world you can never have a friend too many”.

Soon after we arrived in our hostel, we learned a Japanese custom: 'how to build a Japanese bed'. In a Japanese style room you sleep on futons, placed on the tatami mat floor. We looked around and wondered where this do-it-yourself-kit was. We saw a low table and cushions in the middle of the room. The futons, sheets and blankets were neatly put away in the closet. Thanks to the instruction on top we learned how to pile them and make the bed look as if a local with months of experience (ok, maybe weeks) put it together.

I put my temporary insomnia to good use and start writing my blog. In just a few hours, our first day in this urban jungle of 34 million starts. Then... finally I feel I’m getting tired. Time to log off and join my travelmate by letting the adventures begin in my dreams!

12 ways to responsible travel

picslyrics — Tue, 5 Apr 2011 00:23:00 GMT

Travel is a passion of many. We fly thousands and thousands of miles, we visit ancient heritage listed sites by the dozen, we take pictures, we buy souvenirs, we gawk at local people. Sometimes we feel insecure. Are we respecting local customs? Are we handling circumstances the right way? This article provides you a few tips on how to be a responsible traveler.

A tourist taking a picture of a monk inside Angkor Wat temple

Make sure that before you leave, you’re informed about the country’s customs, its current (political) situation, its people, its culture, its history, its language.

You’re a guest in another country. Respect its culture and customs.

Some countries are relatively new to tourism and/or to handling big numbers of tourists through one place. Even though sometimes there will be no special rules on how to behave, use your common sense. Do not climb on ancient stones and do not leave your garbage behind, for example.

Taking pictures is fun and a way to bring back memories. However, respect the local people when taking their picture or making a video. Try to make contact and ask their permission first. Be informed about their believes and customs. Some cultures, for example, believe that having their picture taken will damage their soul.

You are probably inclined to give money to beggars. It is wiser not to do this, no matter how difficult this might be. Giving money is a way of maintaining the system of begging. Tourists also often give pens, paper, balloons, etc. to children. This is very sweet, but surprisingly also not advisable. It’s a way of supporting the children to beg, because they will learn that begging pays off. If you want to help the local community, donate money or utensils to a local project so the entire community will benefit. You can support an orphanage or a school, for example. You can however buy things in a village or town and then donate it. This way you’ll support the receiving party and the local economy. A website that lists projects, necessary utensils and how to pack them is Pack for a Purpose.

No matter where you are, people take joy in the effort you took to learn one or two phrases or even a few words of their language. It is a great way to start a conversation.

A lot of souvenirs are made out of animals or plants that are threatened with extinction. Make sure you know from which material the souvenirs of your choice are made and which ones you can and can’t bring back home. You can check my post on illegal souvenirs/materials.

Try to book an organized trip to a less visited village, instead of going there by yourself. Organised trips are the best way to protect the indigenous people: everybody knows what to expect. If this is not possible, give a moment’s thought to the possible disadvantages of a ‘surprise’ visit and try to minimize them.

Don’t leave your unused medicine behind for the local people. It can be dangerous because of the lack of medical knowledge. The insert is often not readable and people don’t pay attention to the durability limit.

Buy local products for a reasonable price. Remember that low prices are possible due to low wages. Bargaining can be expected, but don’t lose yourself in the process and don’t go to the bottom.

Pay attention to local clothing regulations and respect them. In some cultures or during some festivities this is important.

To minimize your ecological footprint, take a train more often instead of a plain or donate to programs like TreesforTravel.

Souvenirs: how can you tell when they’re illegal?

picslyrics — Tue, 5 Apr 2011 00:19:00 GMT

Souvenirs, who does not like ‘em. They’re a way to remember your great holiday, or your adventurous trip. But do you know that many souvenirs are made out of animals or plants that are threatened with extinction? You would not be the first to have your freshly bought souvenirs confiscated by customs. Not a nice way to end your holiday. And even worse: by buying these souvenirs, we’re participating in destroying this beautiful planet, which us travelers love so much!

Parrot

To help you out on buying the right souvenirs, and doing yourself and nature a favour, here’s a top 10 of often used animal- and plant species as souvenirs:

1. Coral
2. Big shells
3. Elephants
4. Turtles
5. Big Cats
6. Snakes
7. Crocodiles and lizards
8. Parrots
9. Butterflies
10. Orchids and cactuses

Coral
Corals live in the warm oceans around Asia and Oceania, Africa, the Caribbean and Latin- and South America. They appear in many different colours and shapes. Especially hard corals are sold as souvenirs. Sometimes in whole pieces and other times they are processed into jewelery like necklaces, bracelets and earrings.

Big Shells
Big special shells like the Doopvontshell and the Karkoshell are sold all over the world. The Karkoshell is especially sold in the Caribbean. Many of these shells are sold in their original state, but sometimes they are processed into ashtrays and lamps.

Elephants
Products made out of these majestic animals are mainly sold in Asia and Africa. Ivory is the most famous product derived from elephants. Souvenirs made from ivory are jewelery, sculptures, chopsticks and stamps, for example. You can also buy products made out of elephant skin and elephant feet. Ivory can also come from other animals, like walruses and hippopotamuses.

Butterfly

Turtles
Sea turtles live in warm oceans all over the world. Their shield is sold as
decoration or processed into musical instruments, pen-trays, bellows, cases, spectacle frames, combs and jewelery like bracelets and earrings. Stuffed sea turtles are also available as souvenirs.

Big Cats
Wild cats like tigers, jaguars, leopards and small lynxes are endangered nearly everywhere in the world. Chances to encounter them in the wild are small. Unfortunately, you’ll see them more easily processed into souvenirs. Their skin is offered like that – skin- or processed into fashion articles like coats, bags, belts and hats. Necklaces are made out of their paws, teeth and nails. Parts of big cats are processed into traditional medicine. Stuffed smaller cats are also sold as souvenirs.

Snakes
Many different types of snakes and lizards, that live all over the world, are endangered. An important reason why is that they’re being sold as merchandise. The skin is sold like that -skin-, but is mostly processed into wallets, bags, belts, shoes and jewelery. Stuffed animals are also sold and they’re even available alive. Sometimes products are sold made from breeded animals.

Crocodiles and lizards
Crocodiles live in Asia, Oceania, Africa, parts of the Caribbean, North-America and Latin- and South- America. Many fashion accessories are made out of crocodiles. Examples are wallets, bags, shoes and belts. They are sold stuffed, from very big to smaller sizes. Their skin, meat, claws and even alive animals are sold.

Monitor lizard

Parrots
Parrots are an edangered species and are protected in many countries. Many products made from these animals are sold in the Caribbean, Latin- and South America, Africa, Asia, Oceania, North-America and Europe. They are offered alive as pets and also stuffed. Feathers are processed into many souvenirs like pens, traditional music instruments and crowns. In theory, the feathers can come from birds who lost them naturally. In practice, many birds are taken from their natural habitat.

Butterflies
Butterflies and other insects live all over the world. Protected and sometimes highly endangered species of butterflies and insects live in many touristic exotic places, but also in Europe. They are often offered as a souvenir: in frames or alive. Chances these souvenirs are made out of endangered species of butterflies and insects are big.

Orchids and cactuses
Orchids and cactuses are sold almost everywhere in the world. Sometimes they are cultivated, but often they are wild. In many cases you cannot just bring souvenirs that are made out of these plants: you’ll need a license. A rainstick is an example of such a souvenir. If you’re in doubt about souvenirs that are made out of plants, it’s better not to buy it.

If you want to know a bit more about the international trade in animals and plants, you can visit the CITES website (the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora). This is an international agreement between governments. Its aim is to ensure that international trade in specimens of wild animals and plants does not threaten their survival.

Hiroshima bounced back gracefully

picslyrics — Tue, 5 Apr 2011 00:13:00 GMT

Hiroshima. August 6th. It’s 8.15 am in the year of 1945. Not a cloud in the sky. People are ready to start their day. Suddenly…the city is shaken up by a tremendous explosion, followed by an intense blaze of fire that destroys everything – and that means everything – within a range of 2 kilometers and much more over longer distances. The American army just dropped the first atomic bomb used in a war.

The Peace Memorial Park

We’re at the end of our visit to the Peace Memorial Museum. This museum is part of the Peace Memorial Park, located at ‘ground zero’. The park is dedicated to the legacy of this first city in the world to suffer a nuclear attack. Here, every year, the memory of all victims of the Hiroshima and the Nagasaki atomic bombing are officially honoured.

The ‘A-Bomb’ Dome
We started our day at the Peace Monument, also called the ‘A-Bomb’ dome. The ruins of the only building in the centre of the explosion – 160 meters away – that partly survived. The building was designed by a Czech architect, completed in 1915 and was called ‘ The Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall’.

The 'A-bomb' Dome

Some locals wanted it torn down to not needlessly be reminded, while others wanted to preserve it as a memorial. Hiroshima city decided it should be preserved. It became a memorial building.

Children’s Peace Monument
Sadako Sasaki is only a child when the bomb hits Hiroshima. Like many other victims, she has hope on surviving. She expresses her hope by folding 1,000 paper cranes. She believes that if she would do that, she would be cured. But Sadako Sasaki dies from the radiation.

The Children’s Peace Monument is a statue dedicated to the memory of the children who died as a result of the bombing. It shows a girl with outstretched arms and a folded paper crane above her. The statue is based on the true story of Sadako Sasaki.

The monument is surrounded by numerous folded cranes, made by people from around the world (mostly children) that send them to Hiroshima.

The Memorial Cenotaph

Memorial places
Before we entered the museum, we silently strolled along other memorial places in this beautiful park. A park that breathes loss, peace and quiet, respect, strength and compassion. There is the Memorial Cenotaph, the Peace Flame, the Hiroshima Pond of Peace and the Hiroshima National Peace Memorial Hall, to name a few.

Peace Memorial Museum
Being inside the museum, reading all the information and seeing all the photographs of terrible scenes is what silences us the most. I especially get emotional looking at all the pictures of the people, burned. And the story of Sadako Sasaki is heartbreaking.

By now, we leave the museum and talk about how honest it shows the history behind the atomic bomb, also by showing Japans acts during WWII, and how beautiful it is honoured. We are happy to have seen Hiroshima. A city that has bounced back gracefully from this horrifying event on August 6th. The day the sky was blue.

PS: the tramcars of Hiroshima are the pride of the city and are seen as its symbol. Right after the disaster, they were the first to start running again to transport people to hospitals.

Sumo wrestling explained: do you know how to Sumo?

picslyrics — Tue, 5 Apr 2011 00:09:00 GMT

Sumo wrestling: national sport of Japan

Sumo is one of the many unique things Japan is known for. It is a fast, powerful and technical contact sport between two people in a ring. Seeing it for the first time can be a thrilling but confusing experience that raises a lot of questions. In this article, Sumo is explained and basic questions are answered.

Sumo is the national sport of Japan and is almost 2000 years old. The specific characteristics developed during time, in harmony with the spiritual, mythical and cultural characteristics of the Japanese people. Despite its drastic changes in the past ages, it has never been fully detached from its spiritual origin.

From ceremony to contest
In the early days, it was directly associated with Japans rice culture and was practised as a ceremony to secure the success of the harvest. Nowadays, it is not only worldwide organised but also worldwide practised.

Basho’s
The most famous Sumo wrestling tournaments are probably the Basho’s in Japan where only the professional wrestlers (rikishi) participate. These tournaments last 15 days.

Do you know how to Sumo? 10 questions about Sumo answered!

How large is the Sumo-ring?
The outer ring (dohyo) is formed with 20 straw rice bags, and measures 4.55 meters in diameter. One bag is set slightly back from the ring at the north, south, east and west sides. This is a remain of the days of outdoor matches, when it was often necessary to drain off rain water. Today, these extra spaces offer a slight advantage for wrestlers who are driven to the ring’s edge, which makes the contest more interesting.

The greeting ceremony: how does it work?
Politeness, mutual respect and discipline are the most important aspect of Sumo. The ceremony before the fight (Chirichozu) starts by entering the ring:

both wrestlers welcome each other when sitting crouched
they look each other straight in the eye
they rub their hands
they clap them one time – by clapping their hands, they ask for the attention of the gods in order not to go to battle alone
they move their arms horizontally sideways, the palm of their hands facing up
they turn their hands, the palm of their hands facing down
they put their hands on their knees

These arm movements are a purification and shows that the wrestlers are unarmed. It symbolises the sportiveness and honesty of Sumo.

Why do Sumo wrestlers throw salt around?
From ancient times, salt has been believed to own purifying powers. Both wrestlers throw salt in the air as they prepare for their bout (round), clearing thing as a sacred place. They also stamp the ring to squash the bad spirits and they sip water to clear their bodies. Each movement is a religious ritual.

What are the rituals during the Sumo fight?
After the greeting ceremony, the beginning of the fight follows with the Tachiai:

both wrestlers put their fists on the ground
after the referee yells “Hakkeyoi” the game starts

The Tachiai – the moment the two wrestlers bump into each other – is a very important moment in the game: 70% of the fights is decided in this moment. Fights last from several seconds up to a few minutes.

after ending the game, the loser bows towards the winner and leaves the ring
the winner crouches again
the referee announces the victory by saying: “winner east” or “winner west” instead of the winner’s name
after announcing the result, the winner shows his winning and respect to the loser by making a closing arm movement

Winner and loser are expected not to show emotions. Showing respect is the key.

When is the battle won?
The rules are simple, the battle is won when:

a wrestler touches the surface of the ring with his body
a wrestler throws, pushes or lifts his opponent outside the ring

How many winning techniques are there?
In the old days, before a ring was even used, there were 48 winning techniques (kimarite). In 1955 the Sumo Association released its first official list of 68 techniques, increased to 70 in 1960 and 82 in 2001.

Sumo wrestlers performing dohyo-iri

What are the ranks?
There are six divisions:

Makuuchi (highest rank)
Juryo
Makushita (junior grade)
Sandanme
Jonidan
Jonokuchi (lowest rank)

The Grand Champions: Yokozuna.

Wrestlers enter Sumo in the lowest jonokuchi division and – if they’re good enough – work their way up to the top division. Wrestlers in the top two divisions are called sekitori. Lower division wrestlers are in general called rikishi (the generic term for wrestlers).

In the juryo division, wrestlers range from young ones full with hope to reach the highest division to veterans of the game. Watching a fight in this division is a chance to see potential future champions early in their careers. Fighters in this rank and above are considered salaried Sumo professionals.

What are those hairstyles they wear?
The “topknot” is a Sumo wrestler’s everyday hairstyle. Once he entered the juryo rank, he can wear a special topknot for bouts and official appearances, shaped like a ginkgo tree leaf.

How much do those ceremonial aprons cost?
When a wrestler reaches the juryo rank, he receives one of these ceremonial aprons (kesho-mawashi) from his supporters group or other sponsors. Aprons feature fancy gold and silver threads, embroidery and other fine touches. Each costs at least 2 million yen. When diamonds, pearls and other precious gems are used, the price is pushed sky-high.

What do Sumo wrestlers wear during the bout?
The only thing they wear is a linen or silk (for professional use) belt around their waist. It is called the mawashi. The length depends on the size of the wrestler, this can be up to 12 meters at the heavyweights!

Being naked -with the exception of their mawashi – means they enter the battle unarmed. The mawashi has another very important function: it gives the opponent something to hold on to, which makes various wrestling- and throwing techniques possible.

There you go. Sumo wrestling a bit more explained and some basic questions answered. Now you know how to Sumo!

Photography: Vicuña

picslyrics — Tue, 5 Apr 2011 00:03:00 GMT

Picture this: a vast and empty plain that stretches out as far as the eye can see. I’m in the Argentinian part of Patagonia. The emptiness of the Patagonian landscape is soothing and thrilling at the same time. There is nothing and yet there is everything. The mystic mountains make a fantastic background for this savannah landscape. Flamingo’s feed and bathe in the lakes, bird of prey fly high, sheep and cows are a sign of gaucho’s inhabiting the area, the gravel roads are empty and abundant bunch grasses are nutrient poor food for the subject of this photo: vicuña’s.

A vicuña with a broken ear

Vicuña’s live only in South-America and are related to llama’s. Don’t they look like a cuddly animal with their woolly coat and long ears, gorgeous dark eyes and graceful long eyelashes?!

Xi’an on a citytrip

picslyrics — Mon, 4 Apr 2011 23:48:00 GMT

Xi’an: home to China’s famous Army of Terracotta Horses and Warriors

Xi’an, a Chinese city with 4 million inhabitants, is the capital of the Shaanxi province. During the Tang Dynasty (618-907), it even was the capital of China. At that time, the city was named Chang’an, which means ‘Heavenly Peace’. Xi’an acted as the capital city of ten dynasties for over a thousand years. Nowadays, it is worldwide known for its Army of Terracotta Horses and Warriors, which is acclaimed as the 8th wonder and is listed on the UNESCO world cultural heritage list.

If you are in China and want to visit Xi’an, you can schedule 3 to 4 days for a citytrip. It’s enough to see the most important and interesting sites. A few of them are mentioned in this article.

Bell tower
The bell-tower is located in the city centre. This tower is built back in 1384 during the Ming Dynasty (1368 – 1644). It has a big bell on the roof which was used to communicate with the citizens: it told the time. The tower also has a temple, where Chinese musicians play beautiful traditional music for tourists.

Ancient defensive wall
The ancient city defensive wall is surrounding the old city. This impressive and renovated wall is also built during the Ming Dynasty. On top, you’re overlooking Xi’an city centre. It’s possible to rent a push-bike for a few pounds: a nice way to see the entire wall. Walking entirely is not recommended: the wall is too long and in some places there is not much to see. If you don’t feel like walking or cycling: you can take one of the electric cars with driver.

Muslim quarter
Xi’an was connected with Europe and Central Asia through the famous silk route. Islam and Buddhism arrived in China through this merchandise route and Islam especially became popular in Xi’an. Back then, thousands of foreign merchants populated the city.

Xi’an offers great food. From noodle soups and hot-pot (chinese specialty) to lamb and one of the local specialties: the basket-steamed dumplings.

A great place for food in the city centre is the muslim quarter. This quarter, with its handicraft shops, muslim restaurants and the oldest and largest muslim mosque in China, is best visited in the afternoon. At that time the vivid and hectic streets are at their busiest, and you can have dinner in one of the many cheap muslim restaurants or street stalls.

Army of Horses and Warriors

Army of Terracotta Horses and Warriors
Like many Chinese cities nowadays, Xi’an is a modern city with lots of old influences. However, this city has something that is unique and found nowhere else in the world: the Army of Terracotta Horses and warriors. A highlight of a visit to the city, and for many people the reason to go to Xi’an in the first place. 8000 soldiers are guarding the tomb of the great emperor Qin Shi Huang.

China believed in afterlife, just like Egypt. When the emperor died, he was buried in a tomb. And believing in afterlife, you bring everything you own to the grave. Because he was a Chinese emperor, this happened ‘feng-shui’ style (a 3000 year old Chinese philosophy, which learns how the environment can influence good luck). The tomb should be protected from every angle. The mountains and the river formed naturel barriers, but there was no protection in front of it.

That is why workers had to make an estimated number of 8000 of each of the figures from his empire out of clay, from warriors to generals and horses. They were all placed in front of the tomb. This way the emperor was forever protected from danger.

In 1974, a farmer discovered a part of the army when digging a well. From that moment on, the tomb was exposed bit by bit.

Being one of China’s highlights, the Army of Terracotta Horses and Warriors is very touristic and therefore rather busy. The museum handles 10.000 Chinese and 5.000 foreign tourists a day, 365 days a year. You’ll notice this less once you’re inside and it remains an absolute must see when you’re in China!

Photography: contemplating Mongolian men

picslyrics — Mon, 4 Apr 2011 23:36:00 GMT

Picture this: I get off my horse’s back and plant my feet in lush green grass. My back is aching from the short, yet pretty rough horseback ride. A ride that is the opposite from the ones back home. This might be due to the different saddle, but my guess is that it has to do with the interaction I have (or the lack of it) with my horse. You simply ride these tough horses in a different way than the trained horses back home. The fact that the horse hardly listens to the instructions I give him through my hands, weight, legs and voice but immediately obeys when its owner even slightly whistles is not much of an encouragement. I don’t mind. I’m in the middle of Mongolia, mingling with true nomads and savouring the culture and panoramic views of this country. A country where you’re surrounded by emptiness, mountains and eagles.

While I’m facing a perfect waterfall, my guide and owner of the horse is taking a rest. A fellow nomad accompanies him. It is hard not to imagine them contemplating over life…something the Mongolian landscape seems to enforce upon you. *Click!*

My Travel Writing Scholarship 2011 entry - Journey in an Unknown Culture

picslyrics — Mon, 21 Mar 2011 23:11:00 GMT

“Konnichiwa”. I greet the staff at the eatery that is hidden in a small alley, behind white paper lanterns and blue cloths mentioning signs I don’t understand. The soft wind spreads the smoke from the kitchen through the air. Great advertisement that guides me to the entrance. The alley appears as a place where you can inhale the scent of days long gone. Where an old woman in her kimono witnesses a Samurai disappearing around the corner, carrying his shiny sword. “Irasshaimase”, the staff almost shouts back to welcome me. I feel like giggling but immediately get a grip on myself and realize I’m paddling in an unknown sea. This culture is not just different. It’s unique. “Welcome to Japan”, I tell myself.

I’m excited to travel in a country that is drenched in characteristics, developed without being affected much by outside influences. Discipline is high, traditions are cherished and customs count. It seems that everything in Japan breathes respect, finesse and elegance.

The language on the machine that will print my order is unreadable to someone who only knows a few Japanese words. Luckily, resourceful thinking minds invented plastic food displays. A Japanese creation lots of establishments use to lure customers and that is slowly conquering ‘neighbouring’ countries. It’s also a means to the insecurity of the ignorant tourist. These handmade replicas look so real you want to get your teeth in them. Steamy white rice and roasted garlic chives, topped with a moist square-shaped egg. Glittering noodles saturated in shrimp bisque. Crispy roasted chicken with yellow rice. Pastry-shaped sushi with fresh eel. The coin jingles its way down the machine and I press the button that corresponds with my choice of food.

The chef reaches for the note with both hands placed together, his palms facing up. A Japanese way of showing respect and politeness. I hand him the note the same way, slightly nodding my head. Then, an awkward situation occurs: he’s saying something I don’t understand. After several friendly attempts he points out the soba and udon noodles. “Oh sorry, the udon noodles please”.

Traveling in Asia means eating with chopsticks. At least I can safe myself another embarrassment: I can even eat rice with them! I try to remember not to stick the chopsticks upright in my bowl of rice: a way of offering rice to the dead in buddhist rituals.

The delicate spices boost the flavour of the dish the multitasking chef stirred up in an envious capable and fast way, in between greeting people, telling the staff what to do (so it seemed) and keeping his kitchen clean. The food is cheap and simple but it sure tickles my taste buds. Less is more is an art Japan is very well acquainted with. In the next few weeks I hope to stumble upon bits and pieces that form this unique culture. For now, I humbly receive this meal. A translation of ‘enjoy your dinner’. Itadakimasu.