In Search Of The Goldsun

Yatching In Yeppoon

olliegoldson — Sun, 27 Apr 2014 23:17:00 GMT

Sun, sea and goggling. Three words that pretty much sum up my two days spent in Yeppoon. A quick pre-crimbo trip with my brothers future in-laws and actually just what I needed. Yeppoon itself is a cute little town, built a little backwards I am not going to lie but it has everything you need and the best thing about it is that it is bang smack on the beach. Not quite a white sand pristine beach like the ones I am so used to back home but you can actually go in to the sea and squish your toes in the sand. A real genuine Australian beach.

There isn’t much to do in Yeppoon itself, there are a few shops and bars as well as coffee shops that you can wonder in and out of. Sip on tea here enjoy a pint there not to mention some good restaurants. The standard issue with every town you find. So why Yeppoon? Well we only had a couple of days before Christmas so somewhere not far and somewhere neither of us had been. My sister-in-law had been there so we broke one rule but the rest of us hadn’t. The convenience factor was the main selling point for us, being not far from Middlemount it seemed the logical destination.

To be completely truthful I honestly don’t remember a whole bunch from my holiday there. No I had not been drinking and no I do not have amnesia but I literally struggle to piece the activities together. I know there was dinner, and pool side sun bathing and I also know we squeezed in some shopping other than that I am pretty sure it was the standard eat, sleep, repeat routine. One particular thing does come to mind though when I think Yeppoon. My brothers mother in law shouted us a trip on a boat out to Keppel Island. Due to hard wind or some other factor out of our control we couldn’t get to Keppel Island itself. We ended up diverting to North Keppel Island and thank goodness we did.

Keppel Island is normally where the ferry stops off an unloads the vast amount of tourists of locals wanting a day away and a chance to sit back and relax. It is usually hectic from what I hear and a very touristy thing to do. We ended up actually going on a private sail boat. Instead of dropping us off on the busy shores of Keppel Island they actually anchored off the shores of somewhere close to paradise. Kenyan beaches aren’t exactly crowded but they are not desolate either, on north Keppel beach there was not a soul in sight. There are not many places that you can go to where you have a whole beach to yourself so as you can imagine this was complete luxury.

And enjoy it i did. The weather was perfect and the sea was beautiful. Other than the added danger of jellyfish and stingrays it was the most amazing day. All of my favourite things combined in to one. Would I go back? For sure simply because it is a beautiful spot and what more could you want than sun, sea, sand and goggling.

Sightseeing In Sydney

olliegoldson — Sun, 27 Apr 2014 23:16:00 GMT

As a city, Sydney is one of the best that I have visited. Not as hectic as London or as laid back as Budapest but with enough energy and things happening there was always some place to be, a view to look at and a bar to visit. Luckily I know a few people who have decided to move there so my main priority was to catch up with them first, after all what better way to get around than with the knowledge of a local to point you in the right direction. There is the standard list of things to do: a visit to the Opera House, a quick peak at the Harbour Bridge, a walk around Darling Harbour, a pop over to The Gap and of course a session in the sea on Bondi Beach. As I was only there for a couple of days fitting it all in would be near impossible, I tried my best but I have left a couple of “excuses” so that when I go back I have something new to look forward to.

My first stop was Darling Harbour, an easy one as it was close by to where I was staying and there were endless amounts of restaurants and bars to choose from so that a friend and I could sit down and plan out my next few hours. It was looking hectic but I was excited to be there absorbing it all and channeling my inner city slicker. Darling Harbour looks beautiful at night, the lights of the city provided a beautiful scene for some night-time photography and being surrounded by so much energy was great. Living in Middlemount you don’t often get that, if ever so the city buzz and bustle was actually exciting, call me sad but I’m a country bumpkin and I love the bush so being in a city is so different to my normal and genuinely thrilling for a couple of days or so until I start getting city fever and have cravings for the country again. With Christmas just round the corner too, the added bonus of Christmas lights and floating Santa’s was enough to get me in the spirit and in the mood for a drink.

A few drinks later and a private drive round the whole city I had seen it all, I had done Sydney. Well what I wanted to do anyway. The Harbour Bridge and Opera House again look beautiful all lit up and I can definitely see why people would enjoy living there. Being shown around by two locals you really do get a taste of what local life is like. I was almost tempted to pack up and move straight away, it all sounded fun and vibrant but very expensive.

The next day was spent doing all things touristy. A casual stroll in to town to soak up all that Sydney has to offer again only this time in daylight. The Opera House (no offense to the architect, designers, builders and lovers of this piece of art) is less impressive during the day, somewhat over rated in my opinion. Many of you will gasp at this and by all means carry on. I expect this to be met with shock and horror but in my opinion it is a tad on the ugly side. Structurally its impressive, the lotus flower petals are a great design and the concept is beautiful but it could have been made slightly prettier. The brown glass and brown cladding makes it look a little dirty and boring. I am glad that I saw it as it is an iconic structure but as structures go, it is far more glamorous lit up at night. The Harbour Bridge is as bridges go, well made and a good piece of engineering, it frames the harbour well. In fact from afar these two pieces of art do work well together and encompasses Sydney as a city and they actually look beautiful. It saddens me a little that up close I felt a disappointment. I took some photos obviously but got bored. The cruise ships coming in and out of the harbour were to me far more exciting to look at. So for the majority of the morning I wondered up and down the various streets, in and out of the galleries and decided that I had had enough of this side of the water. I wanted to go to the other side to see Sydney from another perspective in the hopes that I could begin to like this city a little more.

From the middle of the water it becomes more apparent how impressive Sydney really is and to try to grasp how a city was built around this water way was intriguing. I wanted to peel back the layers and have a look at it from ground zero. That evening I watched a program called Strip The City and it just so happened to be based on Sydney. After watching that I had a different appreciation for the skyscrapers and monuments that lined the shores. Impressive structurally and a mean feat of engineering, if only they could make it seem a little less bland up close. The majority of my photos were taken through Instagram as the filters to me added a little something extra and actually brightened the city quite significantly. I enjoyed it a lot more through a camera lens than I did on eye level. I felt somewhat cheated but you can’t love everywhere and not everything is perfect. Whilst I am blabbering on and on about how much I was disappointed by this place let me remind you all that this is solely my opinion. I understand that not everyone will agree and I sure as hell hope that not everyone does. If at this point in time you want to shake me silly and open my eyes a little I would stop reading if I were you or just skim over the next few lines. It isn’t going to get better. You win some and you lose some, I can deal with that. This blog is meant to be enjoyed and if you only feel anger and irritation save yourself. Come back another day and read something else, I am not always so negative I promise!

From the other side of the water the view was more to my liking. Sydney did look magnificent as a bigger picture. With all that it encompasses fitted in to one very neat but giant package, I could like Sydney but from the other side. My plan was to head to Bondi Beach as I hear this is a must do for everyone that comes to the harbour but in all honesty I had enough of being a tourist and I didn’t feel like spending a day soaking up the sun rays. After all it looked like rain and I was getting thirsty! I jumped back on the ferry and headed back for an afternoon of shopping.

Now the shopping is impressive, it has everything you need down one road and all in one place. Very convenient. I am no shopper by any stretch of the imagination but when you need some new clothing you don’t want to spend too long or have to go very far. Unfortunately I missed a random busking session by Passenger (if you don’t know them listen to them) but I enjoyed the thought that people could stop and be entertained by some good tunes whilst on their lunch break. It is the best excuse to get out of the cubicles in the skyscrapers and to get some sun. I heard from a group of people that this often happens and it actually improved my first impressions. How cool would it be to casually stroll round town and possibly bump in to a favourite band or just a good group of people playing awesome music. The other buskers around were not to be out done either, a guy with a very broken guitar and another one on some empty buckets made for a spontaneous street dance party. My spirits were lifted and I thought I should end of a high note (pun intended). I took myself and my shopping back for a shower and then I was hitting the bars again, friends in tow and with a list of places I needed to go. I started off at the O Bar. A cute but slightly chaotic bar at the base of the Opera House and a view to the bridge. The cider was good and the food there was great too. I thought that it was perfect, I had everything I could need from a bar and then the live music started. Nothing beats more good music to keep the high notes going (pun intended). From the Opera Bar To the O Bar we went and what a treat. A bar and restaurant right up at the top of a very tall building. The view was to die for and thanks to awesome engineering the revolving 360 degrees provided the best backdrop. Sydney is stunning at night, I will stand by this. A glittering array of expensive living and I was loving it. After a full revolution it was off to Grandmas bar and my personal favourite of all places. I had been told by a friend from South Sudan that I must go here so I did. It was slightly hard to find but with some map reading and a good sense of direction we were outside a building that really didn’t look like much. I instantly recognized the wallpaper and there was no mistaking it, we were indeed paying a visit to Grandmother. The quirky interior didn’t stop there; the chairs were old school and covered in crochet, drinks were served on doilies and bar bitings came in nana’s finest china. I was in love with everything. At that point I immediately wanted to pack by bags and hand in my resume to the owner. I wanted to be part of the charm and the character and even though it wasn’t busy you could tell that if the furniture and fittings could talk they would share epic tales of drunken debauchery and good times with great people.The staff were lovely and made a delicious cocktail or two and the billtong was the best yet. I was hooked. This bar alone made up for every disappointed moment and I was finally liking Sydney. If you have never been check it out, it has everything you want in a bar and more. It’s like visiting your boozy nana, and everyone knows that trips to nana’s are the best kind.

As much as I could have stayed at Grandmas all night it was time to hit the hay. It had been a long day… life as a tourist really is tiring plus I was up before dawn and on a flight back to the Mount. Sydney was cool, it is up there with places to revisit. The next time I will do things a little differently. Less like a tourist and more like a local, I think that is the key to really enjoying what this impressive yet equally unimpressive city has to offer.

Home Away From Home

olliegoldson — Sun, 27 Apr 2014 23:14:00 GMT

New Zealand has been my favourite place (aside from Kenya) where I have been privileged enough to live. Simply put it is a beautiful and very magical country. If you haven’t been yet book a flight immediately and go and see what I am talking about, you wont be disappointed. This country has so much to offer. Every where you look there are mountains galore and bright blue waters a plenty, an untouched land and soul food to any weary traveler. Not to mention the endless amounts of adrenaline junkie activities if that is what you are in to and more than enough quiet serene places for those who want to escape the hustle and bustle of life, to de stress and recharge the batteries. There is something for everyone and I can guarantee that you too will feel the love that I feel. New Zealand does come with a warning, once you visit you will want to return time and time again, be prepared for this, some people may find this too much to cope with.

Since I left in 2009 I have been dying to get back there, and always secretly planning a holiday or trying to find an excuse to get myself back to my second home. And at the beginning of last year it came in the shape of a wedding invitation. I was sold and immediately got down to looking at flights and mentally packing my bags. With much umming and ahhing it turned out that at the time I couldn’t get myself there with sadness in my heart I had to decline the wedding invite. Not something I enjoyed but something I could not avoid, there was too much up in the air and it just wouldn’t work out. A few jam-packed months later I found myself in Australia and right next door. The plan was back on and the plane ticket was finally booked. For weeks and weeks all I could talk about was my trip, I think everyone was sick of hearing about it after a day or two but I didn’t care, I was excited and I wanted everyone to feel jealous! I think the feeling was more annoyed than jealous but it was enough for me. I was going to New Zealand and they were missing out big time! Even though Australia is just next door my ticket didn’t come cheap and time off from work was hard to come by, unfortunately this meant that I could only go for four days. A very short visit but I planned on making it as sweet as possible. Four days wasn’t long enough in hindsight but it did subside the cravings for the time being and it definitely reminded me why I love the place so much. From the people to the cider in the pub to the beautiful landscape and sunsets I was back in my happy place and enjoying every minute of being there. I was finally back home.

A few years ago Christchurch was hit with a massive earthquake that shattered the lives of many and destroyed life as they knew it. Driving through Christchurch you could still feel the effects and see the rubble of a place that was once a great city. New Zealanders have a way of working through the hard times, mainly by sticking together and just getting on with life but I couldn’t help but feel the devastation and sorrow. Somewhere that was once so familiar is completely unrecognizable and in massive disrepair. Only then did I appreciate the full extent of the damage and just how hard those time must have been. I personally knew people affected by the earthquake and did my best to support them from afar so to see the aftermath was a shock to my system and I sat in the back of the car in silence and awe at the devastation. This was a time for celebration and happiness I was after all attending a wedding but I couldn’t help but feel a sadness, not only for the city that has been reduced to temporary structures and scaffolding poles but for the people who now live with the loss. Everywhere I looked I could still see the people of Christchurch hard at work trying to rebuild their lives so many years on, a heartbreaking moment and a rude awakening of just how dangerous life in New Zealand can be. Unfortunately living along a fault line these natural disasters are expected and there will be many more to come, I have no doubt that no matter what happens the magic will still remain and New Zealand will still be the amazing place that I know and love.

Everyone in Christchurch was moving on and I decided I must too. I was here to celebrate the lives of two great friends coming together and celebrate we did. The wedding was a small affair but every minute was special, from the bride walking down the aisle to the speeches and first dance there was not a dry eye in the house, a true testament to how amazing and made for each other my two friends are. I was glad that I had made it, I wouldn’t have missed it for the world and even though it came close I knew that no matter what I would get myself there somehow. It is funny how things always work out in the end. After waving the couple off on their honeymoon and saying my goodbyes and see you laters I was back on a plane and heading over the water. I hate saying goodbye but this time I knew in my heart of hearts that this goodbye was definitely not for forever. I will always return to New Zealand. It is my home away from home and no matter how hard they try they can’t keep me away for too long! It is with love and sadness that I leave again but with a couple of days in Sydney before I head back to the Middle of nowhere the excitement was back on and I was looking forward to catching up with yet more familiar faces and soaking up the sights of another great city. See you again soon New Zealand, Hello Sydney… time for some real tourist sightseeing and more cider :)

Boogying With Baclpackers

olliegoldson — Sun, 27 Apr 2014 23:13:00 GMT

Airlie Beach, Queensland, Australia, somewhere a long the coast.

People watching: everyone indulges in a little of this innocent activity, well for those lovers of this past time Airlie Beach is the place to go. I’m not saying that it is better than any Airport Terminal or Shopping Mall but it is up there. Luckily I went at the best time. Schoolies. What is this schoolies I speak of? It’s a week when all the school seniors head somewhere to blow off some steam and lose their V plates (if they hadn’t already done so) as they have finished school and are heading in to the big wide world. To me it’s when High School spills on to the street. Airlie Beach is one of the main destinations where these high schoolers go in Queensland. Or more specifically those who can’t face the big city of Brisbane or the intense life of the Gold Coast, basically those from small towns who want to go somewhere close to home and not so hectic. Luckily, for those of you who are finding this a little daunting, schoolies isn’t always on but Airlie isn’t a relaxing beach weekend away in paradise kind of destination either. It’s not really a beach if I am being totally honest. There is a beach and you can see the sea but it’s nowhere I would want to take a stroll or have a soak in the salt water. It’s grim. I grew up in Kenya with pristine white beaches and delicious Indian Ocean water. When I hear the word beach I automatically think white sands and aqua marine blue waters. Airlie does not provide this. I never actually made it on to the sand not because I didn’t want to but because it looked like I may run the risk of standing on broken glass or some other rubbish left over from a weekends worth of binge drinking. And the sea, the lovely shade of dirt brown surf is enough to put even the bravest of fish off!

Please note that all landscapes look better in photos!

It isn’t all bad though. Thanks to Airlie I now have yet another tattoo to add to my collection and a knee injury from too much dancing so there has to have been some great times too. I am not going to lie, I was looking forward to some time on the sand soaking up the sun rays and breathing in the sea air but unfortunately my weekend away didn’t actually lead to any of that. The grim beach may have had something to do with it but I was mainly recovering from a stinking hangover the rest of the trip. I may have gotten in to a little too much of the partying scene but at the time it was all worth it.

A beach getaway it may not be but a partying scene it is. Known for it’s backpacker vibe you are bound to be enjoying some wet t-shirt competition or jelly wrestling in no time and that I did. For me jelly wrestling was the sport and Magnums was the establishment of choice. No I did not don the traditional white Magnum branded shirt and join in with the KY festivities but I did get Ridiculous with Red Foo and indeed danced the night away. It was a night of pure fun. I hadn’t had a care in the world and everyone definitely thought that I was off my face on some white powder but in fact it was tequila and I was just high off the music!

The morning after the night before it’s a MacDonald’s kind of a day. Their Chicken McNuggets or not quite chicken anythings are a good way to soak up some of the tequila and their seating outside, well it turned out that they just so happen to be in a prime viewing location. The people of Airlie are some of the finest characters. And not in a good way. I wish I could describe in depth what I saw but there are no words! Just imagine some of the most sex hungry girls wearing the shortest of skirts mixed with the most desperate of men who think singlets are the way to show off their non existent guns but it doesn’t stop there. We have tattoo and stud decorated-stretched ear-lobed-rock star wannabes and then the innocent types trying to pop their cherries all thrown in to one small town, mixing and matching with each other creating some of the oddest of couples that no parent would approve of. Like I said it’s high school in the streets, the same drama and violence, the never ending love triangles and the unavoidable ins and outs of becoming an adult only this time out in the publics eyes and on display for everyone to see. Only this time if you found yourself in a spot of trouble, it wouldn’t be a trip to the school head for a slap on the wrist and a possible detention instead you would find yourself arrested for indecent exposure and possibly behind bars for a night if your are one of the really unlucky ones or just really good at getting caught. Nothing says welcome to the big world like a criminal record and a mug shot! It was a joy to watch. I could have stayed there for ages taking it all in; I laughed at all the stupidity, cringed at all the mistakes and took in the lives of those fresh out of school types and thought to myself thankfully my time for that had long gone. Or so I thought. My hangover really did feel like I was back in those days and the flash backs of the night, well they weren’t all pretty. The only difference is that my hangover lasted days and it forced me to spend the second night in with the telly on and my friend Neurofen by my side. Not something my 16 year old self would be proud of but in some way I actually looked forward to an early night in and the prospect of a nutritious breakfast that wasn’t going to be deep fried and fake. Saying this though, it was good craic to indulge in just a little high school activity for a night and a good way to spend time away from the hectic hustle and bustle of Middlemount life. Sarcasm of course, Middlemount hasn’t exactly turned in to a booming metropolis in the last few weeks since my last post.

To summarise Airlie: if it is a quiet destination you are after then do not head in this direction. It’s somewhere where you feel the need to get involved in the shenanigans and head in to town to check out the competition. It’s a party place but not a bad one at that. We had also better not forget the people watching opportunities either, it was after all an entertaining hour. So if you are looking to watch the world go by whilst you recover from too many jaeger bombs then Airlie is a place to consider. It’s the Australian equivalent of budget Ibiza so if you can handle the tackiness and feel you can brave the beach then get booking. However, if you are looking to feel the sand between your toes and find the perfect opportunity to ogle at some fish swimming by then avoid this at all cost. There are far superior beach destinations all a long the Australian coast and a few of them I hope to frequent while I am here.

Will I ever go back? Probably not, unless of course I am invited by a crowd of equally as crazy people for some more drunken dancing. It isn’t too far from Middlemount either so the convenience factor may also come in to play; but why would I want to spend time in a place that is only really good for people watching, alcohol induced debauchery and sneaky tattoo opportunities when I could be sunning myself on the sands of Bondi Beach or goggling with the sharks and sting rays of the Great Barrier Reef?This is Australia, a whole world of adventure awaits, and I don’t think sticking around these small towns will help me find it! So with my Airlie memories locked away and the postcard stuck in my travel journal it’s back to the drawing board and back to some more holiday planning.

My Next stop: New Zealand, I am extremely excited to be returning to this place I once called home. Let’s hope my love of this country hasn’t been a figment of my imagination for the last 5 years. Fingers crossed because I am now Kiwi Land bound.

Middle Of Nowhere Middlemount

olliegoldson — Sun, 27 Apr 2014 23:12:00 GMT

Still on the adventure of 2013, ok so this one was a little accidental but I am still traveling somewhat never the less. I am now on to country 13 of 50 before 30, so a while to go yet but making the most of this year of being an intrepid.

Quite a few jobs later, a lot of down time and very little money I found myself borrowing some and jumping on a plane to Australia. I have always wanted to come here, it has been somewhere of interest to me for a while from the odd wildlife to endless amounts of back country. I always thought that the photography opportunities would be incredible and something that I would have to experience for myself, not just from other travelers stories or NatGeo documentaries. The only problem was, the timing just wasn’t on my terms. Ok to be fair, I got myself in to this situation in the first place and could have been a little more money savvy but I had other plans for this year and coming to Australia just wasn’t one of them.

I had a great job at the beginning of the year working in South Sudan but sadly this came to a rather dramatic end which led to me working on an overland truck traveling round Africa. I am using ‘round’ in the loosest sense of the word. I made it as far down as Zambia and then back up again. I am no expert in Geography but even I know there is nothing round about that journey, more like up and down. And many ups and downs there were. This epic journey which inspired this travel blog in the first place as well as fueled my thoughts for many more adventures to come actually led me back home to the familiar and some new feathered friends. I landed a job at home! (Thanks again to the most well-connected person I know and to someone who I owe so much for as if it wasn’t for them I probably would have spent the last two years living in the UK burning unpaid bills in a bonfire in the living room of a building not belonging to me to try to keep out the winter snow and chill.) The job was the assistant manager position running a resort attached on to an ostrich farm. My new work mates were quite interesting and working in Kenya which revolves around their own axis and runs on a completely different time zone to the rest of the world was quite an eye opener at the best of times, not to mention infinitely frustrating and full of all the usual politics. As like most of the jobs of this year it sadly didn’t last too long either, very unsurprisingly. Not being a Kenyan and all that forced me yet again to pack my bags and leave the one place that I continue to call home but seem to spend less and less of my time there!

With very little money to my name, no job and no idea what to I borrowed some money packed my bags, had a rather large goodbye party, shed many a tear and left. Ok so it was slightly less glamorous than it sounds. Flights were very last-minute, packing took days, there was more than one goodbye party including a music festival and there were many second thoughts on my part. I think the word I am looking for here is procrastination. Part of me thought that if I never booked my flight or packed then I wouldn’t have to go. You must be thinking I am crazy right, why wouldn’t I want to go, I mean it’s Australia!! Well the truth is, I found my place. I had my friends, a crazy social life (something that is massively important to me), a lot of things to do and finally but most importantly my family near by. Everything I could ever want and more all in one place. For those of you who are lucky enough to know me you will know that this is all I have ever wanted, as cheesy as it sounds, I have to admit that it is true. Anyway this was the situation and I had to realise it so I finally packed, booked everything and made my way to the airport.

Many many hours of traveling later I was back to receiving abuse (the loving kind) from my older brother. For those who have travelled you will all know how great it is to see a familiar face in a foreign place so you can imagine how happy I was to be back with family once again. Not sure how great it was to be heading to Middlemount however but I was here and I was determined to throw myself fully in to living life down under. I think that lasted all of one month. Recently I have found myself liking Middlemount less and less. If any of you have been here you will hopefully understand but for those of you who haven’t I will attempt to paint a picture for you. Or just post a picture.

This is Middlemount. Not much there and it feels even smaller once you are here this would also hopefully explain the middle of nowhere bit too. When people ask me how Middlemount is. My answer is always the same. I relate it to being much like Rumbek, South Sudan. Only less fighting and guns, more people but far more weirdos and with even less to do. Doesn’t sound like somewhere to spend a great deal of time. While I can complain about the small town living I do have to admit that it does have some perks too. Being in the middle of nowhere with nothing to do there is an opportunity to save some money. Your life outside of Middlemount can be adventurous and exciting and this is what makes staying here not so bad. There are also a couple of great people in and amongst the weirdos and the crazies will always make for good stories. I don’t think I could stay here as long as my brother has, but for now at least I have somewhere. My advice is that if you ever want to come here, then plan to not stay for too long and to leave often.

As for Australia, well so far so good. I have been lucky enough to witness a few things in true Aussie style. On my way to Middlemount there were cattle drovers moving their livestock to better pastures, loads of kangaroos (dead ones too sadly), endless amounts of Australian countryside and the odd passing joy of heavy mining machinery. I say passing joy because I have literally never seen anything quite like it. These machines are out of this world, their size just seems abnormal and out of perspective. I will try to get some close up shots when I next see some more just so you can get the real picture of what I am talking about. I look forward to being able to get out there and see more of this endless country but I feel that in a year I will only a see a small fraction. Not to worry, the things I will miss will become the reasons to return.

The rest of this year will see me returning back to New Zealand (couldn’t help it, it’s right next door) and visiting some other local places not far from Middlemount with a couple of days catching up with old friends in Sydney. Even though the timing was all wrong and Middlemount wasn’t the 1st destination of choice I am enjoying Australia. Trying very hard not to pick up the accent and taking the Aussie humor with a pinch of salt. Missing home very much and my bunch of crazies from back there but looking forward to the rest of the adventures of this year and planning yet another exciting, reckless and epic 2014.

Penetrating The Impenetrable Forest

olliegoldson — Sun, 27 Apr 2014 23:10:00 GMT

I am going to really struggle with writing this blog post simply because the experience was indescribable. I don’t think my writing will do it justice but with the help of some really good describing words hopefully I will paint the picture for you. I have heard from so many people that this is a once in a lifetime experience and I now realise why so many people were telling me so. It truly is. There is nothing more exhilarating than watching a young gorilla play in the trees under the watchful eyes of his loving parents from only a matter of feet away. And the beautiful scenery of the Impenetrable Forest providing the dramatic backdrop making the experience truly unforgettable.

The morning started out very early. The earliest morning we have had yet however the adrenalin from the excitement didn’t allow the early start to dampen our spirits. We started off the day with a hearty breakfast and a chance to pack up a lunch that was going to fuel us for a long day ahead. As we were all unsure exactly how long we were going to be we all packed our bags to cover every eventuality. As the gorillas are wild animals that move around in search of food and places to sleep they never stay in one place. As they are not radio collared either we have to trek to find them with the help of an advanced tracking team. We could have been out for a whole day or for a matter of hours so being prepared was tricky. We had to ensure we had enough water and enough food to keep us going. The last thing any of us wanted was to have to bail out from dehydration or exhaustion. As it was turning out to be a sunny day I was glad to be bringing along heaps of water with me. After all was packed in the car we headed off for a drive towards the starting point. The views along the road were fabulous. Sadly we didn’t have much time to stop to take them in as we wanted to make it in good time but the chance that we did have was wonderful. Misty mountains and a beautiful sunrise was another bonus to the having to be awake early.

When we arrived we headed up a small hill to the briefing point. Ok so the hill alone was enough to put me out of breath, I realise at this point that I was definitely not born to trek. In all honesty I started to worry about the day ahead, I wasn’t sure if I could take a few hours of trekking. Not too sure why I was worrying to be truthful, I was about to embark on an adventure to find a family of Gorillas, being out of breath should really have been the last thing on my mind! Once we were all in the briefing room we had a chance meet the guides and porters as well as the security that would be escorting us a long the way. When all the introductions were over we headed off with our guide Florence in search of the Nshongi family of Gorillas.

The going was pretty easy at the beginning and I slowly began to get more comfortable and sure of myself. This was going to be easier than I thought which made my levels of excitement reach an all new level of high. The scenery was beautiful, as we wanted to get to the Gorillas as soon as possible we rarely stopped for long but when we did have moments to break to catch our breath the views made it hard. The trek alone was a highlight for me already. It was well worth every stumble and slip just to be up there. If by chance we didn’t see the gorillas I was going to be happy with the trek, I love being outside in the sunshine and somewhere new. Nothing beats that and I was happy to be there.

Along the way Florence was on the radio with the advanced tracking team. The gorillas had moved away from the main trail and were heading deeper in to the bush. As this was the case we had to leave the comfort of the beaten track and follow the real trails that the gorillas made. The going became a lot tougher. With not having a well worn track below your feet it can get pretty hair raising. Our guides did a lot to help us by clearing away as much of the track as possible and were always there to lend a helping hand on the uphills and downhills too. Yet again I became the laughing stock of the group. I am quite clumsy naturally so as you can imagine having to attempt to lug myself up a hill can get pretty awkward. My porter too found it hilarious. I spent most of the time on my bum sliding as it was easier and better for my own safety. A decision I should have made sooner but refused to give in to the forest. Still though providing some entertainment was the least I could do. I have become used to this, it seems like I’m getting good at it! We had been on the move for a few hours now and our energy was beginning to fade. Luckily Florence had been on the radio with the team ahead and we were getting closer. We could hear their calls at this point and the signs were definitely pointing us in the right direction. We just had to make it over the ridge, up a bit and then down on to the area where the gorillas had decided to stop for their lunch. Our excitement and energy perked up we put our heads down and headed on up. Once we were over the ridge we got our first sightings of the gorilla family. It was hard to spot them at first as they we so busy gorging themselves on the delicacies the forest has to offer but as the guides cleared more of the vegetation away we all soon realised that we were surrounded by the creatures that closely resemble us. Leaving our porters and bags behind we headed in closer armed with nothing but our cameras. Taking a quick look around I could see everyone was smiling, even Florence. It’s so good to see that even the guides don’t get tired of this. They have to do this every day and it seems like every day is better than the last. It was so wonderful to see the smiling faces of the members of the group too. I could tell that even though we were all exhausted we all thought that it was worth while. We wouldn’t have changed anything for the world!

Sneaking in a little closer we cleared an area and settled down to an hour of what would be the best wildlife watching any of us would ever encounter. When my friends found out I was going to see the gorillas they told me to not sit there and look at them through a camera lens, they said it was important to take heaps of photos but sitting there watching them was like nothing else. I am glad they gave me this last piece of advice, I have this tendency to be a little snap happy so putting down my lens and just sitting back to watch was hard but the best thing I have ever done. Watching a young male gorilla swinging and bouncing in the trees was so much fun and such a special moment. It’s so incredible to think how closely related we are to these wild creatures and to see the resemblance in the way they play or care for their children is fascinating. It has to be without doubt the best hour I have ever spent. The gorillas weren’t fazed by our presence at all, they continued on with their day and provided us with many many moments of entertainment, heaps of really great photos and of course a lifetimes worth of great memories too. No body was talking, not because we weren’t allowed to but because we were all speechless. Nothing could prepare me for the elation I was feeling at that point and there are no words to describe it.

When our hour was up I was sad to leave, I could have stayed there for days. It was time to go though, we were encroaching in on them so it was only fair to leave them in peace. An hour was all we needed really, it was a good chance to get a glimpse of gorilla life and ample time to take heaps of great photos! I soon forgot that my feet were sore and my body ached, all I could think was “Oh. My. Goodness. I have just been within reaching distance of one of the worlds rarest and endangered species. Amazing!” Of course on the way out we spoke of nothing else. All of us trying to out do each other on our descriptions of the experience and somehow comparing photos on the move. All knowing that it was worth every second of it and of course every penny. In fact I couldn’t even put a price on it, I would definitely have shelled out more just to be there and I will most certainly do it again. And again. And again.

We stopped to eat our lunch on the way out and were soon back on the tracks that we used to come in. It took less than half the time to make our way back to the starting point and when we all arrived we were sad that it was over. It was truly a great way to spend a day in Uganda. Florence then presented us all with our certificates and explained that she wasn’t expecting us to get back until 6pm, we all breathed a sigh of relief. We made it back by 3pm so we were all quite impressed with ourselves too. Florence was great and the other guides were awesome too. We really did have a good team to guide us for the day and I left feeling very jealous that they got to do it all again the next day.

Not Born A Trekker

olliegoldson — Sun, 27 Apr 2014 23:09:00 GMT

Uganda, Chimpanzee Trek

As this title would suggest, I was definitely not born to be someone to scale the tallest mountains or have the ability to endlessly walk for hours or even enjoy a casual stroll through a forest to spot a family of chimps in their natural habitat but trek is exactly what I did, and my style was far from anything Sir Edmund Hillary would be proud of. Saying this though it was well worth every near fall and the blisters on my toes. I have seen many a chimp in a rescue sanctuary and have had the chance to care for some rescued ones along the way too but I have not had the pleasure or the privilege to see them in their natural habitat, that was until the other day. I was very luckily granted a permit by the Ugandan Wildlife Authority to try my luck and see if I could in fact cross off spotting wild chimps from my endless list of animals to see outside of a zoo or the safety of a wildlife sanctuary.

I, along with 4 other fellow travellers who have been with us since Livingstone and Emily the tour leader were given the opportunity to spend some time watching a family of these amazing apes in their forest of the Kyambura Gorge in The Queen Elizabeth National Park of Uganda. The day started off as an early start for us to get there with ample time to have a bite to eat and prepare ourselves before setting off on a 2 hour trek down in to the gorge then along the floor to where we were hopefully going to spot the chimps. It isn’t always guaranteed to see them as they are wild animals and do move about more than we imagine so I for one was keeping my fingers and toes crossed for the chance to catch a glimpse of them.

Our guide Nelson met us at the reception and after signing in and checking that we were all wearing the right gear. We headed to the top of the gorge which would be our starting point. Nelson gave us a briefing about what to expect and a little bit about the history of the chimps and the problems that they are facing today with caring for the chimps and ensuring their survival. Once we were full of knowledge and as prepared as we could be we headed down in to the gorge. The going wasn’t exactly a walk in the park but with the aid of a handy walking stick and the help and guidance of my fellow group members we all managed to get down to the bottom in one piece and with only a couple of us stumbling along the way.

The jungle at the bottom was beautiful and the views on the way down were breathtaking, already making this trip to Uganda worthwhile and with the added element of possibly seeing a chimp I wondered to myself why it had taken me so long to get myself to Uganda to do this. When we were in a small clearing in the gorge floor, Nelson gave us a bit more of a briefing about the vegetation and the signs to look out for. We couldn’t just rely on Nelson’s eyes; we too had become chimp spotters to increase our chances. Every sound and crack of a branch became a possible sign so all of us where on high alert. As well as the chimps we were also on the lookout for other species of monkey that call the forest home too. A family of Black and White Colobus monkeys were out and about so we had a chance to watch them for a bit as well. After a water break and Colobus watching we continued onwards still on the lookout for the creatures that we came to see. The signs were everywhere and I was certain that the chimps were just round the corner. Along the way we saw lots of fresh chimp droppings and the fruit that was dropped from the trees, these were sure signs that they were about.

Nelson then left us on one of the fallen tree bridges to head up to a view point to see if he could spot them and to make sure we were heading in the right direction. After some time he came back and took us to where he thought they may be. As these chimps are wild we can’t track them with any of the wildlife tracking technologies available today, we have to use the natural signs and signals and keep our fingers crossed. I for one was enjoying spotting the animals this way. I feel that if we use modern technology it is in a way cheating and can become very invasive for the animals too. The idea is to see them in their natural habitat and to experience their real behaviour. If we knew where they were at all times the excitement would be far less and the experience would be completely different.

As we were drawing closer and closer to the end point in the gorge I was quite sad that it seemed that it wasn’t going to be our day. The rest of the group seemed a little disheartened too however we were in a beautiful place and we were all enjoying the adventure so our mood didn’t stay somber for long. Not far from the exit we all started hearing a noise similar to big water droplets dropping on to the ground, I could tell by the smile and almost relief on Nelson’s face that we hit the jackpot. We had indeed found the chimps. They were a little difficult to spot at first but when you sat down and really concentrated the chimps were everywhere. We sat and watched the mothers with their babies swinging from the trees and foraging for their evening meal before heading back to their nests for the night.

Lying on the ground looking in to the trees watching the chimps was an enthralling experience and one I would gladly do time and time again. That very moment was well worth it and I soon forgot about the sore feet and sweatiness. Chimps are magnificent creatures, each with their own personalities. The babies of the group were adorable and watching them learn and play under the watchful eyes of their mothers and aunts provided us with some great entertainment, far better than anything a TV could provide. We were with the family for some time, long enough for us to really enjoy them but just enough time so as to not stress out the animals either. The information from Nelson was really great and it made the group on a whole appreciate the experience so much more. These animals are always under threat from predators and poachers and us as humans encroaching on their land. It is a pleasure to see locals like Nelson have so much care and desire to want to save them and do what he can to protect this family of apes. Being given the chance to see them and hear what Uganda is doing to help them will remain as a highlight for me for some time. We all left the chimps on their way to their nests with very happy faces and many memories and photos to boot.

It was a really great day spent in Uganda and one that I would recommend to everyone. We are now currently on our way to another town in Uganda in the hopes that we can also have a once in a lifetime chance to see the Gorillas in Bwindi National Park. I have heard many great things about this experience and am very much looking forward to our trek. My fingers and toes are still crossed but I can safely say it is going to be another fantastic day in this beautiful country.

Back In The Homeland

olliegoldson — Sun, 27 Apr 2014 23:08:00 GMT

Kenya :)

Nothing beats being back in the homeland. Don’t get me wrong, my travels have been out of this world amazing and the places I have been to have been breathtaking but to be back on home soil and where everything is so familiar is indescribable. And to add a few hours of family time and catch ups with friends was the perfect way to spend my few days there. I don’t think I will ever tire of coming home. It is always good to get out once in a while to wash out the cobwebs and the dust from life there, and I will always be sad to leave as well as excited to be going somewhere new and exciting but nothing will equal the excitement of returning. I can’t say I arrived very refreshed or very clean but as always I was welcomed back with many hugs (mostly from the nephew, which wasn’t necessarily his choice) and many many invitations for drinks and catch ups. I have the best family and friends. It was like you all knew exactly what I needed and had the best remedies to fix any traveling blues. I simply can’t thank you enough. I am also not lying when I say I miss you all so much already, I am already looking forward to coming back to hopefully be spending more time this time and having a better chance to catch up with those of you who I only saw for a brief moment or didn’t get to see at all. I will keep you posted on when that may be and for how long so be prepared to clear your schedule, I am coming to see you.

So what exactly could I possibly do in Nairobi over two days I hear you think. Well I think the staff of Talisman know me by name now I spent so much time there but other than that I was shopping, socialising and harassing my poor nephew (sorry Ewan!!). It was lucky that we arrived on a Thursday so I had a Friday night to get involved in the Nairobi silliness.

We drove up from Arusha on Thursday so we didn’t get in until after lunch. As soon as the truck was switched off I ran to Louiza’s house to actually look for some milky bar ice cream that I remember leaving in the freezer. I completely forgot about the ice cream when I saw Ewan through the little peep hole in the gate. I miss that child so much. I actually cried when he looked at me like a complete stranger. I can hardly blame him as it has been a while so for a small baby who is growing so fast it must feel like ages. I am not sure if it was because he finally recognised me or if because he was happy to have the entertainment but that cute smiley face was back and I was in love with him all over again. It still surprises me that Ali could produce something so cute!! Anyway after I caught up on the baby snuggles I took him for a wonder to see the truck. He didn’t seem all that impressed really but the rest of the unwashed travellers enjoyed his cute self and he loved the oohing and aahing. Once I couldn’t carry him anymore I headed back to the house and waited for the family. It was awesome seeing them all, especially the added visit from my cousin who was out for half term. The afternoon is a bit of a blur, all I know is that most of my new things were stolen from me or given away and then I was dragged round the shops. Not such a bad idea as I needed some new clothes but I could have used a shower and a change of clothes before being let out in public! We then headed out to Talisman later for dinner with the whole group. It was hard to sit round a table with everyone who I had just spent the last few weeks with when my family and some friends were on a table not too far or propping up the bar. I don’t think I managed it too well as I constantly found myself surrounded with familiar faces of old friends rather than the faces that became so familiar from new friends. Anyway a few drinks were had with both parties and I finished the night sitting at the bar with an old friend from South Sudan. We must have had one too many drinks as we both decided that returning to South Sudan was a must even if just for a weekend. Not sure how well that would go down with the family or the government but I won’t lie, a weekend in Juba with the bunch of crazies I know from there would be hilarious and so much fun but slightly too extreme. Anyway it was good laughing about the old times and putting the world right. I also didn’t end up going back to the campsite either, the promise of a good bed and a cuddle with the nephew pre breakfast was too good to pass on. Luckily the campsite isn’t far from the house (within walking distance) so I could sneak in in the morning. My last day in Nairobi was spent having breakfast with the tour leader and then joining the family for their late breakfast, then another quick trip around the shops and an afternoon full of Carlo Rossi and a pedicure. The best day I have had in Nairobi for a while. It was filled with everything I could possibly wish for. My feet look more presentable and finally clean!! It’s sad that clean feet should be so exciting but if you know my family you would know why. Anyway Katie and Lynn, you will be happy to know that my toes are newly polished with red polish and not blue and that the layers of dirt have been scrubbed off. Not sure if it will last long but I am now wearing socks with my new shoes so I hope that this prolongs it a little more.

Once all the grooming and repacking was done I headed back to The Rubber Arm bar at the campsite for a last drink or two to say bye to the nomads we were leaving behind and then off out for a sushi dinner. As it was Friday we had to venture out for a night out on the town. In hindsight this was probably not such a good idea as we had to leave the next day but it was hard for me to resist. Back to Talisman we went although this time is was slightly less civilised and I spent the night dancing my clean feet off and shooting vodka. Still though, I met some amazing new people and caught up with the amazing old friends. Another perfect way to spend my time off the road and in the homeland. Thank you to all who were there, I am still smiling at the good times. Same thing when I get back please!

After two and a half hours of sleep it was back on the truck and Nakuru bound. The view on the escarpment was very foggy but I will never tire of it. I was sad to keep driving on through Naivasha but I had rhinos to see in Nakuru! A quick lunch outside the gate and then a drive through what was left of the park. It seems that Nakuru has had lots of rain because the lake has doubled in size and the water is not far off flowing in to the offices at the gate. This did cut off most of the game viewing plains but it provided with some great bird watching. I have to admit that it was hard to keep my eyes open but being back in a park where I used to frequent back in the day was a good way to spend a hungover day. After that we headed to the campsite where I saw some more familiar faces and spent the evening sipping on Amarula hot chocolate and watching David Attenborough’s Africa.

After the best nights sleep we headed on to Eldoret for a little bit of shopping then an afternoon spent relaxing in the campsite. Didn’t get up to much other than note writing and the like but it was another fine day. The evening was spent with a beer this time but more of the Africa series. We live in a beautiful world round here. We are so lucky. Anyway this episode featured the Ruwenzori Mountains which is where I am heading so as you can imagine there was much excitement and more oohing and aahing. David Attenborough really has a way of imprinting Africa in to you and showing it in all its glory. I don’t think I will ever feel like I know this place until I have seen down every nook and cranny, peeped in to every hole and trekked every mountain peak. I will give it a good shot though, lets see how far I get. For now I am keeping my fingers crossed for a spare Gorilla permit. I hear so many great things and many reviews of it being a once in a lifetime opportunity so I would love to be able to take this opportunity to see them for myself. I hopefully find out today if the permit is available so I shall keep you all posted. Until then if you haven’t already done so, watch the Africa series and get booking some holidays. It’s coming up to that time of year and I know a few of you who could use some time on the road. Don’t forget that you can come visit me too!

Enjoy being home for me, and please do still keep in touch. I miss you all so much and will always enjoy hearing all the news and dramas. See you all again in two weeks though for some more stories to make you jealous!

It’s Uganda and Gorilla time, Eeks!

“Where we love is home – home that our feet may leave but not our hearts.” ~ Oliver Wendell Holmes

Hipopos In The Geti

olliegoldson — Sun, 27 Apr 2014 23:06:00 GMT

Serengeti and Ngorongoro

This place really does live up to its name. It is just a vast plain with nothing around but animals. And the crater, it is enormous. I wasn’t expecting something quite as extraordinary, in fact I wasn’t too sure what I was expecting but it blew me away. The views were amazing and the wildlife that we saw was incredible. Where else in the world can you see the big 5 plus more in 2 days? And before you think I have gone cray cray and caught bush brain, no the title is thanks to a new friend. I was explaining to her how we call police popos in our family so she came up with a little joke:
“Who are the law enforcers of the Serengeti?”
The Hipopos!!
I couldn’t resist using it as it became the topic of many a conversation and the cause of endless amounts of laughter (mainly mine as I don’t think anyone else got it!). And Geti well I travelled with many Australians and as you well know they are very good at shortening all of their words, why would Serengeti be any different?

We left sometime after breakfast for the drive to the Ngorongoro crater area, the drive on the main road was unexciting but the drive through the conservation area was beautiful. We stopped at the view point and it was simply stunning. I can’t explain to you how breathtaking it is. I hope none of you are thinking that it is over rated because it really isn’t. My photos don’t do it justice at all so you all must visit it at some point. You will not be disappointed!

We then drive in to the Serengeti on back breaking roads and definitely the reason why I am walking like someone sent me through a mangle. When we arrived there we headed for a short game drive towards the campsite. We pretty much saw most of the big 5 in that moment. It was awesome. We got to the campsite and grabbed a quick lunch, which I didn’t have to cook (whoopie!!) and headed out for another game drive. When we arrived at the entrance gate we were all planning on walking up to the view point but. Large elephant was blocking our way. It’s amazing to see how stupid some people can be. One American (it’s always the Americans) tried to walk up to it and touch it. After I screamed at them for a bit they moved further down and posed for photos. The elephant started moving towards them and they still didn’t move. Part of me was hoping that the elephant would charge at them to teach them all a lesson but sadly it wasn’t my day. When they came down the ranger gave them a bit of a lecture and they weren’t sure why. Don’t people understand that it’s a wild f**king elephant!! Not long after than a couple dressed to match decided to do the same thing. Tourists are really stupid sometimes. Thankfully all the touris I was with had their heads screwed on and joined me in the lectures and shouting at people. What I don’t understand is how no one can understand how dangerous animals are. Luckily for them the elephant didn’t seemed too fussed that day but if it was there would have been a few squashed people and a few less stupid people in this world. After that excitement we were in the park and my camera and binos were at the ready. We saw so many lions I lost count and heaps of elephants with some small babies too. I was pretty happy! I was also in the truck with the crazy people. Someone must have given them a happy pill or something as it was not stop laughter. I haven’t laughed until I cried for a while. By the time we finished my stomach muscles were aching so much! The other car in front of us filled with the rest of the group didn’t seem all that impressed. According to them we scared off all the animals. Not sure how as we managed to see more than they did (thanks to my amazing spotting ability of course)! Anyway they were aptly named the fun sponge truck. Slightly offensive but they did nothing to change it. I think their tempers really rose when we randomly burst out in spontaneous laughter whilst watching some hippos wallowing. That day was definitely one of the best days I have spent on safari.
We spent the rest of the evening sipping on Amarula hot chocolates and looking at the stars. A perfect way to end a very perfect day.

The next day was an early start as we were heading in to the crater. We had a game drive out of the park where we saw some lazy lions. We were so close to them I am pretty sure I could have plucked out one of their whiskers if I wanted to. Anyway as you can imagine we weren’t the only vehicle there. One lady in another vehicle decided that she would ask her guide a very serious question (a stupid question too, she was also American!). Anyway she said it quite loudly which made us all piss ourselves laughing. Her question of choice was “If I walk towards it, will it attach me?”. Her guide was a hero and suggested to her that she should try it and see. I was looking forward to a good stand off between the lion and her. Thankfully for her own good she used her brain and didn’t try and attempt it. My money was always on the lion. Anyway this got us in to quite a serious debate about lions and wildlife which turned in to a debate. We also had a moment with another safari vehicle that kept blocking off this female lion so she couldn’t cross the road. Anyway between the stupid tourists and bad safari guides I was over it and just wanted to leave the animals in peace.

As we hadn’t seen a cheetah yet this was our mission for the way out. We weren’t lucky this time around but I was pretty happy with the rest of our game viewings. We managed to see most of the 5′s minus the small five. Not bad going for a couple of days.

The second night we camped on the rim of the crater with the game drive being on the morning on our way out. I definitely wasn’t prepared for that night. I have never been so cold and I definitely didn’t have enough clothes! It was still heaps of fun. The highlights being sitting round the campfire attempting to roast some marshmallows and drinking Amarula hot chocolate. What really made it for me was the story from one of the girls on the truck. She has to wake up twice in the night for a wee and both times was met with the beady eyes of a buffalo. I think it is one of those you have to hear the story from her moments as she tells it so well but it was hilarious. I’m not even brave enough to wee with buffalos around the fact that she did it twice is brave and hilarious as well as completely crazy!

The drive back was entertaining too. They were all so curious about South Sudan and what I was doing there so their questions just kept coming. I think I scared them all off after that but it was fun reminiscing, I actually forgot how awesome life could really be there and how ridiculous all at the same time. Saying that though I can’t help but realise how gat things are not too. The fact that I am on my way home having driven from Nairobi to Livingstone and back again is simply amazing. And to makes things even better the adventures haven’t stopped here. In fact they haven’t even really truly started. I still need to get my own truck first and go all the way to Cape Town! For now though I am happy to be back in the homeland for two short days. I am going to enjoy every last minute of it before its back on the truck and Uganda bound.

It has been awesome so far and I can’t wait for the upcoming adventures. Things just get better and better. Life right now couldn’t be any better.

“Tourists don’t know where they’ve been, travelers don’t know where they are going” ~ Paul Theroux

““I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel’s sake. The great affair is to move.” – Robert Louis Stevenson

Sunshine Reggae, Shopping And Sea Sickness In The Sun

olliegoldson — Sun, 27 Apr 2014 23:05:00 GMT

Dar, Zanzibar, Back to Dar and Arusha.

I still hate Dar. Yep. No amount of time I will ever spend there will make me change my mind. Thankfully the promise of Zanzibar and the Indian Ocean make up for it but I can’t say I will ever book my own trip to go there. If I were to do Zanzibar on my own, I would fly. The traffic is worse than Nairobi which is enough for anyone with a severe road rage problem to avoid it and the suppressing heat and humidity and smell of rotten fish just make it a thousand times worse than what it could be. Unless you are visiting a long lost family friend that is stuck there then there is simply no reason to visit. So don’t.

The beaches are however a saviour. Granted we don’t spend much time in Dar so I am probably not really one who should judge but the journey through the traffic, on to the small ferry and then on to a matatu that we have to take to get to the beaches still doesn’t make Dar anywhere where I would spend much time. I can see a beach in Kenya that would probably be nicer and visit it in the comfort of a private car. Why would I bother going to Dar to get to Zanzibar. The true answer is I wouldn’t. I only do it because the itinerary says so. I guess it is a good way for the tourists to get a taste of the local life and the experience is quite something but I dread that part of the journey. Every time. What also makes it worse is the butt crack of dawn early wake up call (4:30am) from Chitimba and the very long drive to avoid the traffic. We then only stay a matter of hours and the small ferry, heat, chaos and pandemonium starts all over again to catch the big ferry to Zanzibar. Thankfully on the way over this time it was smooth sailing and no one I was near was sea sick. In fact I think I spent most of the time sleeping or watching snippets of the Jackie Chan movie being played on the screens. Some say that this ferry journey is a highlight. Granted this time around it was actually sunny so the views were pretty good but being stuck on a floating boat with many people (some who actually get sea sick) just doesn’t quite cut it as a highlight for me. At best it’s a great time to catch up on sleep.

Once we arrived in Zanzibar I didn’t have to do the spice tour this time around so I had a chance to have time to myself. As I was with the tour leader and her family we decided to hit a really cute cafe tucked away behind a big building for some fresh seafood lunch and a chance to shop. Thanks to my shopping companions I now have more crap that I don’t need and a new outfit or two. Unnecessary but it was such a pleasure spending my time not really being a tourist and doing things that I would do back home. It was then sundowners and a delicious seafood dinner followed by cocktails. Zanzibar is awesome. I can see why people now told me that I simply had to go. Stone Town reminds me a lot of Lamu with the people, buildings and alleyways and general lifestyle. I don’t think I could spend much time there but it is nice to be somewhere that feels so familiar. I look forward to the days when I can explore it on my own, I have no doubt that there are little treasures tucked away round the back somewhere. I can not wait to go back already and I only left there a few days ago. Oh and the beach. Who could not love it there. On North Bound trips we have 3 days at the beach instead of 2 so more time to soak up the sun and spot some fish. I literally spent my days catching up with old friends (another tour leader I met a while ago and a randomer I met in Kenya), having a few cheeky bevvies, dancing my shoes bare at a reggae party and sleeping. It was heaven. Ad the fresh fish thrown in there too. Uh. Take me back. I could stay there for a while.

The return journey on the ferry was horrendous. I sat right at the front, stupidly, so ended up feeling a little green. Not green enough to bring out the sick bag but green enough for want it to be over. The two people sitting me either side did help with the distractions of games if scrabble and logos but at the time I knew getting off was going to be the only cure. I have to remember to get some anti nausea tablets or something because that was not enjoyable. And to think people call it a highlight. They have to be crazy.
When we got back to Dar I headed straight to the sea to wash off the grime of the day and settled down for the evening to some email checking and Facebook.
It’s times like these that I miss my family. I love Facebook but I hate it too. I just realised how much I miss out on when I am not there. To be fair my adventure is awesome and I can guarantee you are all missing out here too but nothing beats being at home with the family and doing fun things together. It was only bad this time around as everyone sounded like they had such fun at the rhino charge and I desperately wanted to go. I soon got over it because I too was heading home and then on to Uganda. I realised that moments of homesickness are allowed but only short moments.

As it was a very long drive the next day to Arusha I decided to call it quits and go to sleep. 4:30am is not my favourite time of the day but being awake for sunrise does make it all a little more worthwhile. As a group we a also getting really good at these long driving days. One of the girls comes up with quizzes and fun games to play. My musical knowledge is growing greater by the day and I am fast running out of good reading material. I guess that I should enjoy it while it lasts as when I am working I am us accounting and planning will be keeping me busy but there nothing worse than sitting in a truck for 8 hours going crazy and realising that you are only half way to the destination. Ma and BJ at the Meserani Snake Park are really a good cure for Arusha road rage and 16hour driving insanity. They always have a friendly face and a cold beer waiting for you. It’s always a pleasure seeing them and catching up. It’s like meeting your grand parents and them doing everything they can to cheer you up. I can see why everyone loves them so much, they make it so easy.

It was a quick dinner and an early bed, we were heading to the Serengetti and Ngorongoro crater the next day. I have always wanted to go there so I refused to be tired. This is the first real chance of wildlife spotting I have had since I left and I was not ready to miss out. I was lucky that the company let me go this time too. I love Arusha and a few days break and rest would have been awesome but game viewing and bush camping just seemed much more exciting. Who wouldn’t want to go?

Bed that night was awesome and the shower was the best shower I had had in a while. Even though it was cold it was still great to get the dust off and to refresh. Sleeping on a Safari is a big no no for me so getting a decent 6 hours was all that I needed. I woke up way beyond excited and ready to see some Elephants. It was that great that it gets its own blog post!

Malawi Moments

olliegoldson — Sun, 27 Apr 2014 23:04:00 GMT

Malawi!! Yes, it is still amazing.

On the drive up from Zambia to Kande I jumped in to the cab of the truck and spent some time with the tour leader and driver. I always had an idea but after today these two have definitely become very good friends of mine. I shall always look forward to those moments where we bump in to each other on the road and to the quick catch ups. I spent most of the journey laughing, it has been a while since I have done that. To be truthful the laughing was mainly at them rather than us laughing together. You can tell that due to many weeks on the road they have become like brother and sister, husband and wife, best friends, worst enemies and complete strangers all in one. It’s great to watch and see. I hope that my driver and I become like that, although something tells me we will have no choice. Spending that amount if time with something, amazing friendships are bound to be formed. The real entertainment came when we tried to fish out a USB stick from a random hole in the compartment between the seats. Trying to pick up a small USB with a spanner and two pens in a moving vehicle is tricky work. Watching the tour leader attempt it for a good hour was more entertainment that TV could provide. If you have ever seen a chimp try to pick up rice with chopsticks you will be getting the picture. Hilarious. After a while she gave up so I decided to have a go. Being slightly less chimp like I fashioned a hook contraption out of a bracelet and fished it out within 15 minutes. I was impressed with myself and I don’t think she will ever get over it.

We also had a chance to plan for our party that we were going to have in Kande. Acacia, the company that I work for was turning 18 and so all trucks got given some extra money to throw a party wherever you would be. As we had a truck full of girls with one token male we decided to throw a cocktail party. We planned to buy umbrellas and balloons and put on our finest traveling outfit and have a jolly good time sipping on piña coladas and eating some good food. As soon as we arrived we got down to cooking dinner and the group got stuck in to the cocktails. It definitely wasn’t anywhere near as crazy as the previous time I had been in Kande but it was definitely up there with the good nights. Sadly as we had a long driving day that day we all went to bed early fairly sober, so nothing like how 18th birthday parties should be but we gave it a good shot and definitely did have some fun doing it too.

The next day was really chilled out, I spent most of the morning writing notes and catching up with things. I look forward to the days where I don’t have to continuously note write and instead can unpack my kikoi and enjoy the beach and the fresh water of Lake Malawi. The afternoon I spent most if my time with the driver and tour leader, they gave me heaps of good points and provided me with some insightful information. It was a good afternoon well spent. The evening was spent having dinner in the village, kindly cooked for us by Christopher Columbus the Second’s wife and watching his children sing and dance. Wen we headed back to the camp most of us were exhausted so it was an early bed again. The Oasis truck that was also staying in camp were having a large one in the bar so a couple of us decided to go and have a drink or two and watch the messiness unravel. I am so glad that I decided to do this. The entertainment that they provided was priceless. They had travelled down from London through West Africa and were now on their way up through the East. Apparently they had a rough 18 days where they ran out of food and had no opportunity to shower so as you can imagine the sight of semi civilisation and a bar was enough to get the party started. I had the chance to meet a couple of them and get talking to them. It turns out they were a bunch of friends who all knew each other before hand and had all decided to get together for the drivers lat hoorah working as an overlander. This is definitely the way to travel. They all had such crazy stories and good memories that made me so jealous. I was glad to be a part of their fun for one night, and thankful too that it was only one night. I knew I would be bumping in to them again at some point but that was enough. They were too crazy for me and there was no way I would have been able to keep up. They were fun people though and I would like to think that one day my friends would do that for me too. That is definitely the way to travel, they had it spot on.

The rest of my time in Malawi was spent in Chitimba. I love this place. There is something about it that makes me happy. It sounds cheesy and it is but it is so true. The beach, the lake, the scenery and the managers all make for a magical place. We had two days here where we did very little but relax. We snuck in a night of fancy dress and fruit punch that didn’t turn in to a wild party but in fact a great evening dressed like idiots sitting round a campfire. I also had a chance to walk through the village here, much the same as Kande with the same “we need more donations to make our lives better” spiel from the locals. The difference with this village walk was that I was on a mission to find pasta. I though the driver and tour leader were testing me but they weren’t. I had to find some pasta in a very small town where they didn’t even know what pasta was. With lots of explaining and hand gesturing I manage to find one small measly packet of spaghetti. I was pretty chuffed. I also popped in to the local witch doctor just for a laugh. According to him and his potions I am going to have a job soon (yay), my family is healthy (yay), my trip up north would be very successful with few problems (yay) and that I will have three children (not sure what to make of this yet). Probably not worth the few dollars I paid to visit him but it was all about the experience and for the laughs. His outfit was also very typical of an African witch doctor. See for yourself in the photos, I don’t think I could do it justice!

All in all it has been a pretty chilled time in Malawi. It’s been awesome actually and just what I needed. We had some laughs and some drinks and did some shopping, pretty much what you would do on any vacation. Even though it was very different from the last time I still very much enjoyed myself and will again be excited about returning time and time again.

Zooming Through Zambia

olliegoldson — Sun, 27 Apr 2014 23:02:00 GMT

Zambia.

This blog post is going to be short and sweet as nothing really happened through the rest of Zambia.

This country is extensive so it is mainly long driving days and lots of time spent on the truck. I spent most of my days reading and getting to know the new people on the truck. I can’t say I was surprised to meet another bunch of equally crazy and awesomely fun new people. I have a feeling that this could be the trend here. Luckily we all get a long so well. Spending hours sitting side by side making small talk conversations would be hard to do with someone who you would rather not have to be in the same country as would be nightmarish. Most of the group had been traveling together since Cape Town and a couple of others since Jo’Burg so their friendships were already formed and the inside jokes had been established therefore it made traveling with each other very easy. For us newbies (5 in total including me) it was quite daunting. It wasn’t long before everyone slotted in and we became a truck full of a strange and crazy family. You would think it would be quite dysfunctional but we all seem to compliment each other, take the piss out of one another and work well together that any competitive sports team would be envious. Luckily as well we all had a taste for cheesy music which again seems to becoming a trend on my overland trucks. It wasn’t long before Disney was being played over the truck speakers and all of us we singing a long. When we weren’t trying our luck at truck karaoke we all had our heads down in our books. I have started to realise how much I actually enjoy reading and I am looking forward to having a chance to read all the serious books I skimped out on in South Sudan. We have some long driving days coming up so its a good thing to be in to reading. There isn’t really much else to do over 12 hours in a confined space with very little on offer.

I am really struggling to write anything more than this for these few days we spent in Zambia. The main reason for really visiting this country is to head to the falls so when that is done its hard to find much else to do. I am definitely not doing this place any justice and some of you who know Zambia will probably be wanting to shake me awake and talk at me for hours about how awesome this place is. Don’t worry, I do realise this. Which is why I am adding Zambia on to my list of future destinations. I would love to come back, not on a truck but in a car with a bunch of friends who have endless lists of must do’s and have to see’s. Sadly I don’t make the itineraries so its all about Livingstone and not much about anything in between. We really did zoom through the rest of Zambia. Don’t worry though, I shall be back and hopefully the next time my blog post will be more exciting. I will say this though, I do love how Zambia can be very South African if you know what I mean. On a shopping trip I really struggled to remember that I was in fact trawling the shops of the small towns in Zambia and not the high streets of say Cape Town. It’s civilisation like nowhere in Africa or at least the Africa that I am used to. The endless choices of supplies and goods just isn’t the same as the Nakumatt selection we get back home. You must all be thinking that I don’t make any sense and wondering why I am talking about shopping but if you have ever had the opportunity to shop in South Africa and in Kenya you will know what I am talking about. Zambia still has the Africa spirit that I know but there is also a little something extra that is a lot like an Africa that I don’t know. I definitely look forward to returning one day. There is something so special about it.

Killing Time In Kafue

olliegoldson — Sun, 27 Apr 2014 23:01:00 GMT

Woo hoo! Something new for my trip up North, we didn’t do this part of the journey down South. It’s hard to fit it in so we bypass and head straight on. I have to say though that I am glad that on the way up we find the time to stop in. Only because its beautiful, a chance to get out of the truck and because the soft grass allows for one of the best nights sleep. Doesn’t seem like a lot but when you spend your time sleeping on mattresses that are bound to slip a disc or two, some nice green soft grass is exactly what any chiropractor would order.

Kafue is one if those places that unless you were a tourist or you lived there and had a boat you wouldn’t necessarily go there or even look at it on a map. Don’t get me wrong I am glad that I went but I am struggling to find a reason why I would go on my own without the truck load of the soap dodgers. Basically it’s a river cruise and a night camping out in the bush. The boat itself is nothing fancy so if you are picturing something similar to what Livingstone and Stanley would have travelled on stop now. It is more like a pontoon than a boat. A double decker pontoon at that with a bar and basic bathroom attached so really who needs much more? The cruise takes about 2 hours, the scenery is beautiful (as you can see for yourself in the photos) but other than sightseeing there is really nothing else to it. Luckily we all had a good book and a comfy mattress to lie on. I think I enjoyed it more that I expected simply because cruising a long a river is a wonderful break from the bumpy roads that Africa becomes so famous for and also for the chance to catch up on some light reading. The peace and tranquility didn’t last too long however, a storm blew in out of nowhere and suddenly we were stuck in the papyrus. Luckily the campsite was right there so we were able to fashion some stepping stones out of nowhere to get on to the bank and pitch the tents before the rain really set in. I don’t often sleep in a tent (one of the perks of being a tour leader) but I have to say that I am getting pretty swift at this tent erecting business. Once the tent was set up it was back in the boat for some ugali and chicken. The best thing about it was that I didn’t have to cook it myself aside from that it was delicious. After dinner was when the real tourist attraction started. 5 guys break out the bongo drums and sing and dance the night away. One even did a little fire breathing action and some other crazy stunts involving his skin and a burning stick. Not something that any health and safety officer would approve of.

Once the entertainment was done it was a wet wipe wash for me (only the second thus far) an early bed time. And the best nights sleep I have had since this whole thing started. It was the first time in a while I woke up without a crick in my spine or an ounce of pain. I was actually starting to feel like a little old lady up until this point. I think a visit to the chiropractor is definitely in order when I find some time and someone qualified enough to straighten me out. This and the un availability of a good mani pedi is definitely my biggest problem with overlanding. It sounds trivial but nice feet and a straight spine doesn’t seem like a lot to ask for and if these are the only problems then I think we are not doing too badly.

The next morning we headed out on the speed boat to a random house in the middle of nowhere. I say random because it really was. It looked as though someone decided to start building a house that would have been so beautiful and well thought out but then ran out of money and abandoned it. There was also a strange collection of children’s toys brushed away in to the corner and a small selection of veggies. What really did it though was the slate that was used to construct some kind of outdoor seating and the dilapidated police boat moored outside. We were left their for a while as they had to do a couple of trips in the boat to bring everyone there, it was long enough for us to start discussing survival scenarios and establishing a plan if we would ever get left behind. Thankfully we were not left behind and heading up the hill towards the village. Incidentally this was my survival tactic after of course having diminished the vegetables and got bored of the toys. After a very scenic walk we arrived at this gentleman’s house. So it wasn’t really a village, just a collection of his family homes. We spent some time listening to him explaining about their life there and watching his grand children play a game of dodgeball with an added element of rock collecting. Nothing overly exciting but a good way to kill some time and to get away from truck life. Once all that was done it was back on to the boat and back to the truck and back on the road in the direction of Lusaka.

I was looking forward to going back in the diction of civilisation and also because we were coming closer and closer to Malawi. Something that I can’t help but get excited about.

Oliving The Dream

olliegoldson — Sun, 27 Apr 2014 22:59:00 GMT

Livingstone, Zambia!

Sitting on the shores of the Zambezi river with a view to the Smoke That Thunders (Mosi O Tunya) I have to say that Zambia is another highlight. I have spent many more days here than usual and I am ready to get back on the road but every day has been amazing. Sadly I haven’t been able to indulge in any of the adrenalin junkie activities but I have been to watch a few crazies brave the bungee jump and bridge swing so I feel like I have had my fair share of heart stopping action just by watching.

Unfortunately my onwards journey has changed and I am now heading North. I say unfortunately but it isn’t really. As much as I would love to be going South the North route does have its plus points and I am just as excited. Not only because it is back to Malawi but also because instead of three nights in Zanzibar we have four. And this is is just the beginning. So spoilt I know which is why you are probably wondering why I am complaining. I am not really, I am just a little gutted that I have to miss out on the Okavango Delta and Namibia this time round. There will be plenty of other chances so I am getting over it slowly. As I have changed routes I have therefore changed trucks, tour leaders and group. I was sad to say goodbye to the others as they had become good friends a long the way but the new bunch of nomads all seem just as lovely so things should be just as awesome if not much more. My new tour leader and driver also seem great too so I am sure much learning and note writing will be done a long the way. Not sure why HQ decided to change the direction but as with all other traveling, plans always change and evolve so why should my overland experience be any different? Our route is slightly different so for some of the way there will be new sights which is always great. Not that I will find it boring anyway but seeing new places is always exciting. For a start we stop over in Kafue in between Livingstone and Lusaka with a chance to cruise a long the river and hopefully view some game. It will then be back to Lusaka then on to Malawi, Tanzania, Kenya and then on further still to Uganda. Yes. I possibly have a chance to visit the Gorillas. I hear that a lone is the most amazing experience ever so I feel very lucky to be including that in to all the other amazing things I will be doing on the way there. We also have a company birthday coming up, a big 18th so a small celebration is in order. We will be in Kande Beach, Malawi so I imagine things will get a little merry and festive. A typical 18th birthday party if you will. You would think that this isn’t work. Sometimes it doesn’t feel that way I have to admit as I am only a trainee so getting really hands on is hard to do but I am sure that when I get my own truck things will be different and I will be working a lot more than just enjoying what Africa has to offer. I look forward to those days actually. The thought of controlling a budget and getting tourists round Africa is a little daunting but its all part of the adventure. I still have lots of learning to go but I have plenty of time to do that so I am sure by the time I am in control I will be more clued up on how things are done. Until then I am going to do my best to squeeze in some sights and exploring in amongst the shopping and organising that I can do. It should hopefully be slightly easier now that I am heading back on a route I have already been, at least I now know what to expect.

Exactly what have I been doing in Livingstone I can hear you thinking. Well the first day was spent driving. We drove from Lusaka which took a while. We arrived with enough time to visit the falls so a thorough soaking was had. Some say that Vic Falls is over rated. Ok realistically it is just a waterfall but the sheer size a lone is impressive. We have come at a time when the water levels are high so there is lots of spray and the visibility is poor but even still you can’t help but get an idea of the impressiveness that is. It was so amazing being so close to the falls and in and amongst the spray. The photo opportunities were minimal as the spray was obviously camera damaging but hopefully the ones I managed to sneak in will give you an idea. The spray and sunlight also allowed for some impressive rainbows, sadly no pot of gold at the end but with 3 or 4 rainbows in one spot I felt like it more than made up for it. After a couple of hours getting soaked to the bone we headed back to campsite. And what a campsite it is. The Waterfront is definitely a recommendation from me. They have so many river view rooms for those who don’t like roughing it and plenty of space for tents for those who do. And the views. Uh. Words can not describe, quite seriously. To my left I have the view to the falls, the only thing I can really see is the spray but it is still beautiful and to my right I have up river. Luckily this is in the direction of the sun sets so as you can imagine, every evening as been an array of reds, yellows, oranges and pinks with everything sporting that warm glow. Africa, this Africa is simply breathtaking. I have seen my fair share of sunsets in my time but there is something about them in this place. Not sure whether it is the happy hour beers which are in full flow or just the setting but you can’t help but be in love with Africa here. If you haven’t been here yet, come and see for yourself. I 100% promise you will not be disappointed. I am already excited about returning and hope that next time I will have a chance to truly enjoy everything that Livingstone has to offer. The bungee jump and all!

After an afternoon at the falls the other days have been a blur of relaxing and sight seeing. There was a morning spent watching a few brave the bungee, this was amazing. I would have loved to have done it and was so keen but with the history of my broken leg they weren’t too keen to send me and I wasn’t in the mood to spend hours getting evaluated so I passed on it. Next time though I shall see how I feel and possibly brave the 111m fall. It just has to be done. The setting itself is enough to make the fall amazing. If I don’t do the bungee I will definitely be doing the swing. A 70m free fall then a massive swing though the valley for a few breathtaking minutes. I am so excited just thinking about it. Some of us then jumped on to a boat for a booze cruise at sunset. That evening was spent getting merry and meeting the new people joining the tour. It was a great evening spent with great people in a great location. The other days were spent wondering around town and simply laying back, catching up on the reading and soaking up the magic of Zambia. Things really don’t get much better than this.

For my final night this country has provided me with the most amazing sunset. My photos simply don’t do it justice but the pinks of the sky are incredible. I haven’t seen anything like it ever before so on that note I am going to head off to enjoy it. This post has been short but sweet but as not much has really happened I think I can get away with it. Not to mention my terrible writing is not doing Livingstone and the beauty of it any justice so it is better to leave it here than try and continue. Just do yourselves a favour and find some time to come here, see it for yourself. You will not be disappointed.

Next stop, Kafue. I am well and truly Living The Dream.

P.S. Vic Falls photos to come soon. Have to find better Internet first! T.I.A!!

As Sweet As Kande

olliegoldson — Sun, 27 Apr 2014 22:58:00 GMT

Kande Beach, Malawi!!

On route to Zambia this morning after having spent 3 amazing nights in Malawi at Kande Beach. Malawi still remains to be a highlight for me so far. It definitely just got better and better as the days went on. If you haven’t been to Malawi yet do yourselves a favour and find sometime to do so, I promise you will not be disappointed. The lake and the beaches that come with it are definitely a good place to relax and unwind and a few days is all that you need. The few activities that are on offer are just enough for those who need a little something extra to do but the best ways to spend the days are relaxing, reading and soaking up the sun rays lying on the beach. Also not forgetting the vast fresh water lake which provides a much needed cool down or refreshing dip (also a great way to cure a hangover) as well as good views and rejuvenating sounds.

It isn’t all shoes off and bikini on for those of you concerned about the lack of work actually going on. There was much to do and very little time in which to do it. Cleaning and organising the truck, cooking the group meal and making the fruit punch definitely kept me busy for a few hours oh and don’t forget the optional activities that I had to try out so that I would be able to sell them to my future groups. Not all play and no work you know.

The first day was spent mostly driving to the Kande Beach Campsite from Chitimba so a lot of snoozing and catching up on notes as well as a stop at the lookout or an amazing view of the lake was all that really happened. Luckily the weather held out just long enough for us to get some good photos. It was then time for a quick lunch by the road and a look at the rubber tree plantations then onwards to the campsite. We arrived late afternoon so not much time to really do anything. It was actually really nice to get in to somewhere we were staying for a few days. The mad rush to get everything out and sorted then put back in again that has been going on for the last few days has been exhausting so it was so nice to be in relaxed mode and to not have to hurry to get anything done. A relaxed evening was followed by an early bed time as it was party night the following night so we were saving ourselves. And thank goodness we did actually, when I said things were going to get messy I wasn’t joking!

The next morning was an early start and a walk round the village. It’s one of the optional extras Kande has to offer. It’s a chance to see how people live in Malawi and to really find out about the people here. Even though I have been on many of these kinds of outings before it was actually nice to be out walking in the sunshine for a change of scenery and a chance to take in more of the sights that I have been enjoying from the window of the truck. I would like to say that I enjoyed the rest of the walk but I can’t say I did too much. I can definitely see why people would want to go and it seemed that the others were having a good time but as much as I tried I just felt awkward most of the way. I felt awkward because I don’t consider myself a tourist of Africa, yes I haven’t traveled around any of it before and I have never been to Malawi before either so technically I am a tourist but when it comes to the life here it doesn’t change much. I really don’t need to be paying a local to explain it to me, besides they only tell us what they think we should know. The true stories of life here come from spending much time in the place and learning for yourself. Whilst the locals were talking at me, I had a moment to look around and take it all in. The sight of us walking alone must have been ridiculous from an onlookers point of view as it was a line of tourists down the middle and on either side the strategically placed locals. All of which had ridiculous names clearly stolen from movies and I am assuming just for entertainment purposes. On either side of me I had a “Stan The Man”, “Mr Fantastic” and “Blessing” (his actual name, he decided to use it because he preferred it to any other he came up with). I had three locals with me as they all knew I was the trainee tour leader and so figured the more the merrier and that it was a good chance to get in there first with their offerings of cheap carvings and other touristy things. I Can’t say I was paying too much attention of exactly what they were offering as I was enjoying the scenery a little too much but one of them did catch my attention when he mentioned oranges. Strange I know but we forgot to buy some oranges for the fruit punch so I thought that this would be a good time to buy them. Who knew a short walk to a village could be so productive. Once all of the negotiating and explaining was out of the way we headed up to the primary school to see how things are done. We arrived just at the end of break time but that wasn’t stopping the kids. They were all fighting over who’s hand to hold and who to ask to give them the water bottles, it was hectic to say the least. After the kids were dragged away by the call of their teachers we headed in to the school library. It is nothing fancy, a simple brick building with a few shelves and donated books. A typical African school library actually except this one was one of the brightest I have seen. Thanks to much donated time and money from some very kind people this library was covered in fun bright and colourful paintings. My kind of library actually. A long with the paintings was a good collection of books too and all of them going to good use. We had a chance to speak to the head teacher to find out some more information and to get his side of the story. Before we started the walk we were given an explanation about the option to donate money and books or pens etc if we wanted to. Usually when I have been given this explanation before it is done once and not pushed down your throat all day. In Malawi they do things a bit differently. They give you the same talk and explanations etc but then as an end note they remind you that actually you don’t have to donate anything at all and It isn’t an order so we don’t have to feel obliged to do anything. This is all fairly normal but instead of getting the explanation once they drop it in at every opportunity possible. I understand that they are only trying to better their lives and the school is able to continue to function thanks too all the generous donating but surely a couple of times is enough to get the message across. I didn’t need to hear it every time I asked a question. Some of you may be thinking that I am being very un-humanitarian like by saying this but I know I wasn’t the only one thinking it at the time. One way to make it seem like something we must do is by reminding us of it at every possible chance so in this case I felt awful leaving the school having left nothing simply because at the time I had nothing on me to give. Receiving donations is great and those who are able to do so are doing a great deal to support locals and help communities grow and develop but please also understand that although at the time it seems like the best thing you can do as a human it can also cause many more problems. With this school in particular it all seemed very legitimate and it looked like indeed everything was going back to the children and teachers and yes the school was growing but in some other cases I have seen this isn’t the case. Communities often steal the money simply because the opportunity presents itself or the government takes their cut leaving very little for the people who need it more so I say this; if you would like to make a donation then choose wisely and research further. If you can, try and get as much information as possible and follow up on where your money or things are going to. In the case of the primary school we visited it was obvious that everything was being used with the children in mind so I would be happy making recommendations to donate anything you can but I will also add that there are other schools much like that one that need help too and don’t get it. Spread the love is really what I am trying to say. Why support a school that has a lot more than most when another one just round the corner could use it too. Another reason why I didn’t enjoy the walk was that it seemed the only agenda was to point out what needed to get better or what was wrong. I am assuming that this was another ploy to get us to donate but again I don’t think it is the way forward. Perhaps sharing the information about the pass rate of exams or how the students faired after leaving would be an encouragement to donate as it is a positive. Everyone seems to focus on the negative here and this became more and more evident on the walk. No wonder people have such a bad look on Africa. There are so many great things about this place, why don’t people shout out about that more than anything. Surely that will get more people coming here and a long with that more of the right kind of help.

After the session in the library we headed in to a classroom. I wasn’t too keen on going in as we were disrupting a class but once we were in I finally saw the positive sides to life in Malawi. The children were all so friendly and couldn’t wait to share their knowledge with you. One of the students I met even wanted me to test him on all the animals in a book. This did make me very happy, he knew a lot of what they were and why they were important. Education is invaluable but education on wildlife is what I consider to be the most valuable information of all. I am not going to go in to the wildlife conversation dilemmas that are all too real everywhere we go but sitting in that classroom listening to that boy I knew that he got the idea. One person at a time is all it can take to change the dire situation that is going on with the wildlife today and in Malawi I met one person who could do so much without even realising it. I tried to explain to that one kid what his knowledge could do. I don’t think he completely understood my message but he seemed happy at the thought of more wildlife equals more tourists which equals more money for Malawi and therefore more opportunities for him and so he should keep that knowledge and do good with it. After all the bombarding for the need to donate I had decided that this one kid was worth it. If I had met him before the library session I may have thought differently about the donating issue. All it took was one positive to make me rethink, I can only imagine what more positives could do.

After the school visit and the mixed feelings about it we headed to the clinic where things didn’t help to change my opinion any more. We were lead in to a small ward and again given the spiel of what is wrong with the clinic and then shown the donations box. Any good information was given to us after we asked questions. And that was it. We weren’t shown around, we weren’t told much about anything yet we were asked to donate anything. They definitely had it all wrong, there was no way I was going to be parting with anything until I really had a look for myself. No chance for that either so I left leaving nothing behind. A sad fact really. Hopefully as I come back more I will be treated less and less like a tourist and shown more of the real life of Malawi. I realise now I am probably not selling it to any of you but in all honesty at that point and time I wasn’t sold on it either. It wasn’t until after that walk when I got back to camp and had a chance to reflect on a few things that the magic came back. Being in a beautiful place and with some great people is truly the way to enjoy life. I hope that one day instead of focusing on the negatives, Malawians can truly see how beautiful this place is and start spreading that word instead, maybe then the story of Africa can change too.

The evening was spent cooking for the group whilst they got dressed and ready for the party. At this point we were the only truck on the campsite so we were slightly worried that the evening wouldn’t turn out so well. You can imagine our delight and excitement when another truck turned up but little did we know that they would be in bed long before it really got started. Over dinner much punch was consumed and many costumes were being laughed at photographed. I finally had a chance to get changed myself after most of the punch was consumed and dinner was eaten. My outfit of choice… A tusker shirt and a brown kikoi. I was going to go as a bottle of beer. I even made a hat for my bottle cap and I covered myself in dirt to make my skin a little darker. A pretty good outfit even if I say so myself. It was also a hit with the expats who live there long term and thanks to them I am now the proud bearer of my road nickname, Tusker. So original and very un imaginative but a nickname none the less, I was glad to be “welcomed” in to the truck family again. I think the real clincher was when I was the first up in the bar top dancing, it’s funny how something like that can entertain so many others. And just so we are clear, no I wasn’t too drunk and yes I was given permission to go up and I was definitely not the only one up there. From then on things just got messy. There was many sunsets drunk and much dancing done. Putting myself to bed sometime after two was definitely wise, especially after my very long shower. Scrubbing off dirt after a few drinks is very difficult work. It was a really funny night though full of loads of laughter and shenanigans. I have to say things finally registered when we were all sitting on the beach starring at the night sky crying with laughter. I was in Malawi and loving this new adventure and all the new places, I was happy to be here.

The next day as you can imagine was a mission. I had to clean the truck after breakfast which was nightmarish. The smell of old onions was enough to nearly make my breakfast reappear. It was going to be a rough day. Thankfully it didn’t take too long, I was lying on the beach soaking up the sun rays in no time In between swimming in the chilly water. A good combination to make me feel more human. Watching the rest of the group dealing with a sinking kayak in the middle of the lake also provided some serious entertainment. I was glad I hadn’t gone. I don’t think I was in any fit shape to operate heavy machinery.

The evening was spent at the house of our local helper, Rodger. His wife cooked up a storm and we spent some time dancing with his children before it was early to bed for an early start. The early start was so worth it though thanks to the sunrise. It was the final thing I needed to really fall in love with Malawi. This place really is beautiful and I will always look forward to returning.

Still though onwards and Southwards. Zambia next. Things can only get better.

Cheesy Tunes And Wet Weather Blues

olliegoldson — Sun, 27 Apr 2014 22:56:00 GMT

Malawi!!

Finally arrived in another country and can happily add one more stamp to my well traveled passport as well as another SIM card to my already impressive collection.

Malawi has to be a highlight for me so far. Ok so I have only been in here for a matter of hours at the time of writing but the laughter, dancing and general banter have been some serious entertainment. The rest of Tanzania was much like the everything else I have seen. Mikumi National Park lived up to its reputation of being a must not see game park. I was glad to not be paying the fees to drive round. The drive through was very unexciting. Sad because I love game drives. Ok so it wasn’t completely a waste as we did see so many giraffes and impalas but without a good set of binoculars it was hard to really tell if indeed that was what we were seeing. It’s a beautiful park landscape wise but that’s is about all it has going for it. On the positive side however it was a nice break from the typical village scenes that we have been driving past for the last few days.

We decided to stop in at the Tan Swiss Hotel. It’s a little hotel come campsite just outside of the National Park. It’s really sweet actually, there is a small farm attached on to the side and they have all kinds of ducks, geese and chickens. The goose chases make for some good side splitting action. It has everything you need for a night including a hot shower. The first real hot shower I have had in a while, it was amazing to say the least! The Internet and bar also provided some much needed normalcy. Nothing like accepting friend requests on Facebook over a beer in the middle of Africa. I am pretty sure that most of you have seen the photos and memes but we definitely resembled exactly what the world has come to. We may as well have been sending each other messages over social network. Not much else was going on really, we were way too busy stalking and updating to really care that only a matter of a few kilometres away was potentially some very exciting wildlife! I do feel slightly guilty as the Internet connection should be on the bottom of my necessities list but on a rainy day after a long drive it is an absolute pleasure to have. Besides if there were other options of activities to do in such conditions then I can assure you the need for the World Wide Web would have been dramatically decreased. We weren’t on it for too long though as they switched it off at 10pm. Probably a good thing considering the lengthy drive we had to endure the following day.

And a lengthy drive it was. A whopping 12.5 hours (over 600kms) sat in the back of a truck. And just to add insult to injury it happened to be the one and only sunny day we had seen so far! Again though the scenery was stunning and the drive was beautiful. Apparently it was an accident prone road as we saw 10 bad car accidents a long the way. I was pretty glad to be done with it by the end however. As car journeys go though I have to say it was one of the best. Much sleeping was done obviously but in between the odd snooze here and there we didn’t actually stop laughing. Not sure if it was because we were over tired or if someone had spiked the tea with special juice but it was a long ride that I could have stayed on for a while. I couldn’t even tell you what was so funny but the dancing a long to Gangnam Style and Saturday Night down the gangway was definitely up there on the high end of the entertainment scale. Dancing while moving is definitely a no no but for a few quick minutes we just couldn’t help ourselves. We weren’t far from the hotel either so we figured we could get away with it as we were driving slowly. It’s funny how a cheesy song can provide so many tired people with hours of laughter. Adding to that The Spice Girls and Vengaboys provided some good sing a long songs too. You have got to love the old classics. Our cheesy tune high wasn’t even dampened by the torrential downpour we were treated to. It turns out that Cooking in the rain is actually highly enjoyable. The awning wasn’t even holding but that was not stopping us. The tunes still going we cooked up a storm and sat down to a civilised family dinner. Obviously full of yet more laughter and a ton of inappropriate comments. This was now becoming a regular occurrence. I don’t think I have heard the words “that’s what she said” so many times during one meal. Oh and the washing up… Yes it’s funny how when in the mood cleaning dirty dishes can become as kinky as a bondage club. Thanks to Elise and Lucy the drying of the dishes was also eye wateringly funny, we realised that the flap dry process resembles the action of the performing monkeys with the symbols. If only we had the red hats and blue waist coats that they wear. I am pretty sure someone would pay lots of money to see that. Now every time we dry the dishes we can’t help but giggle at the mental picture of exactly how ridiculous we must look. It was just what I needed though. It’s tiresome being on the road I won’t lie so to have days where you are constantly smiling and your stomach muscles a hurting from the endless laughter are just what is needed especially on rainy days. A pro to traveling on an overland truck is definitely the people. Without good people things can be very different. I can genuinely say that for my first overland experience I couldn’t ask for a better group. We have only known each other for some few weeks now but I can already see signs and hear plans of future travels and visits. Hopefully this continues on for the next few weeks as it is still early days yet!

After a rainy evening an upgrade to a room was in order so another hot shower and an actual bed to sleep in was another bonus to have. Not really a bonus for me as I have the pleasure of having a room in most camps as a tour leader but for the others they were more than happy. It sounds sad but a hot shower and a comfortable bed that isn’t under a canvas roof was the ideal way to end that day. It really couldn’t have been any better and it was a great way to get rid of any wet weather blues. A chance to dry off and keep warm is Heaven for any nomad!

The next day was an early start, well early being 6:30am. We didn’t have long to go but leaving early meant we could arrive at the campsite in Malawi at a reasonable hour so we could all finally have some free time to enjoy the best of what Malawi and its people have to offer. Malawi is again another beautiful country, this seems to be the trend in Africa and I expected nothing less but with the vast mountain ranges, endless green fields of Cassava and the beauty of Lake Malawi you really are spoilt to some good viewing. The Malawians also live up to their reputations, some of the friendliest people I have met so far. So friendly in fact that a 30 second dance party was in order whilst I was buying my SIM card. It was definitely a good start to the very short four days we would be spending in this forgotten country. I say forgotten because according to the lonely planet guide book it is sometimes left out when comparing it to the glorious beaches of Mozambique or the big game national parks of Tanzania and Zambia. Malawi is actually famous for a few things so this isn’t entirely true. The HIV rate is supposed to be one of the highest here, probably not anymore as I once read that Swaziland is on the increase. Ok so not the best thing to be well known for but it is the home of the third largest fresh water lake, a serious plus point I would say. The lake is truly a magnificent sight and definitely somewhere people should visit, this plus the friendly locals and mountain ranges are enough for me to be putting it on my list of countries to bring the family.

After a short drive we arrived in Chitimba at the Beach Camp there and finally had some time to relax and unwind. A swim in the lake was a must, I didn’t partake as it was way too cold for that and some picture taking too was also in order. The usual touristy things one must do when in such places. We didn’t stop there though. Someone got the idea in their heads that we should all be doing cartwheels and hand stands on the beach. Not a good idea. Luckily no one got injured but there was definitely more than one occasion where the potential of driving to hospital was all the more likely. I think it may have been me ending with broken bones or torn ligaments because my style was not the most graceful and certainly highly hazardous to my health. I have definitely strained a few muscles or pulled something because I ache. Badly. Not badly enough for hospital but badly enough to not be doing that again in too much of a hurry. The beach volleyball session afterwards didn’t help either but when being bullied in to it by a bunch of younger fitter athletic people it is hard to not get involved. I didn’t play well anyway and am now officially laughing stock and the truck clown. Oh yay.

Once all that was done it was a very social evening and an early bed time. It is exhausting work having to entertain a bunch of crazies but well worth it. Anyway we need to save ourselves for Kande Beach. We have a fancy dress party to attend and possibly a volleyball tournament to win as well as two days of large boozing. Definitely a good idea to get some shut eye as we wont be getting much of it in the next couple of days . It should be worth it though, we have plans for punch and a chance to buy a ridiculous outfit. I think I am slightly over excited by this but all 11 of us looking ridiculous is going to be some more humour to look forward to, who wouldn’t be excited? We also have three days there which means we can unpack and leave things unpacked for a while. A fresh water lake, some funny people, a couple of beers, a ridiculous costume and an UN-packed truck. It really doesn’t get much better than that!

I think that is it for now, I will update you all again after the shenanigans of Kande Beach and of course will be uploading photos of the costumes! Still loving the touring and traveling and can not wait to go further South to Zambia where the adrenaline excitement starts and the civilisation of South Africa gets closer. I have finally now started filling in my Southern Africa lonely planet book. This in itself is pretty awesome. I Simply can not wait.

Kande Beach here we come…things a going to get messy!!

Huyu, this if for you:
Love Birds population number: no more sightings since Arusha
Number of cows hit or run over: 0
Any other fatalities: 0
Pretty good going considering but There is still time!

From The Bush To The Beach With A Beer

olliegoldson — Sun, 27 Apr 2014 22:54:00 GMT

Apparently this title is very Australian.

Dar Es Salaam and Zanzibar!!

I am writing this sitting on the ferry on route to Dar Es Salaam from Zanzibar. I was actually looking forward to this as the ferry is quite flash but now that I am sitting here, the excitement has dwindled somewhat. The ferry we were supposed to be on is the slightly more flash and modern version of the one we are on now. Hopefully this one will get us from Zanzibar to Dar but the members of the group seem skeptical. We have only just got on it so so far so good but the ride so far is as bumpy as a small boat on stormy waters. I would say I have some pretty good sea legs but the woman next to me not so much. I think this is her first time ever on this thing and I can already see signs that whatever she had for lunch with reappear shortly. Not looking forward to that in all honesty. Luckily she has been provided with a sick bag but something tells me that flimsy bit of plastic will not hold 2 and a half hours of puke. Oh yay. Aside from that I am in good spirits. I have after all just been in Zanzibar for three days. Usually three days isn’t enough but three days of sun, sea, sand and happy hour cocktails has been more than enough and I am now ready to leave Tanzania and head to Malawi.

Since Arusha little has happened really, the days have been filled with sun lounging and long drives. The drive from Arusha to Korongwe was the longest we have had so far, nothing too exciting to see or do on the way really. These long drives are definitely the downfall of overland travel. The scenery is great to see and village life on the side of the road is exciting for most but after about 9 long and slow hours every village is the same and the scenery changes only slightly thanks to the vegetation. It does become slightly amusing when the small children decide to flip us the bird or threaten to throw stones at us but that is it. Thankfully most of the destinations we head to make it all the worth while, I say most because others are not so worth it or we simply arrive too late and leave too early to decide whether it deserves a place on the places to see list. Korongwe for one is definitely no where to write home about. We didn’t stay long as we wanted to make it to Dar at a reasonable hour but after only a few awake hours both at night and during the day. I have decided that unless absolutely necessary it isn’t really worth it. It was a nice break from the drive though so perhaps I am being a little too harsh. The campsite was great and the facilities are basic but a good bonus so a good stop off point at best. Other than that, truly unexciting. Dar isn’t much better either to be fair. It’s not a place where I would spend too much time unless I had to. It’s a typical big city in Africa. Very little order and and a hell of a lot of chaos. Oh and the ferry… Eeks. Not something to do on a regular occasion. In fact only something to do if absolutely necessary, it does get you out of the traffic but carrying shopping and backpacks is just not a heap of fun.

Oh and out comes the sick bag, great. Lunch, breakfast and last nights dinner have all reappeared. Thank goodness my sea legs seem to be in good working order. Sick bag is not going to hold. Aaah. Not happy. Thankfully not long until we get to the mainland, I can see it now.

So, I arrived in Dar at Kipepeo beach. That was hectic. We ended up getting off the ferry and going shopping then getting on the local ferry and on various other modes of transport just to get here to rain. Nice. Anyway one last night of luxury on a Tanzanian beach (perks of being a tour leader is staying in the hotel rooms when they are available) then we hit the road again tomorrow.

I see I am jumping around a bit here but it’s hard to write a blog while being distracted. I’m going to jump back to my time in Zanzibar as I realise now I haven’t even touched on it. To put it simply, it was amazing. Oh the weather was rubbish but aside from that it was beach time and a few cocktails. The first night was spent in Stone Town. We arrived and headed straight for the spice tour and a look at the old slave market. It was very interesting to say the least. And very touristy. We came back covered in various ornaments made from palm leaves. It poured with rain most of the time but everyone seemed to have a good time. After that it was off to Africa House to watch a non existent sunset. Failing a good sunset we hit the fish market for some street food. Not to everyone’s liking but my ice cream was delicious! Obviously being Zanzibar a late night was in order so we headed off to the Maru Maru hotel for we more drinks. Staggering home we managed to get so lost that it took us a good half hour to get there but we made it in one piece and headaches were all round the next day. After breakkie we headed off to the East Coast to stay in Kwendra Rocks for a couple of days. The group decided that they needed to go on a booze cruise that evening. I think they were persuaded by the yatch out the front of the bar. I tried to tell them that that wasn’t the boat but they didn’t believe me. As you can imagine, when they were met with one of the local chapalanga jobs they were less than impressed. Lets just say a bottle of vodka and a few shots of konyagi later they were loving it. They jumped off the boat and enjoyed the sunset… I think. They were more interested in the booze than anything else to be fair. A few drunk people appeared off the boat later attempting to walk their way to the bar, failing that crawling. This obviously continued much later in to the night and a merry time was had by all. Oh and I was nicknamed Genuine Legend. Not a bad name to be honest. And one I plan to live up to.

The next day was so lazy, they all headed off for touristy things and I stayed behind. Soaking up the sun rays and walking a long the beach was definitely a good way to spend the day. I could get used to this. On North bound trips we spend 4 nights in Zanzibar. I am not going to lie, I am looking forward to that. Relaxing at the beach is going to be a much needed break from a few days on the truck. Then sadly it was time to head back to Dar to start our long journey to Malawi. The whole ferry saga later I find myself enjoying some quiet time. I think a nice early night is in order as we have an early start tomorrow. We won’t make it all the way to Malawi in a day but will camp just outside the Mikumi National Park. Hopefully a chance to see some wildlife tomorrow for a few brief moments but otherwise another full day of driving! We actually picked up some more people and left some people behind in Dar and Zanzibar so it’s nice to be meeting some new people. Hopefully we will have some more exciting times ahead because so far it has been amazing and full of laughter. I have been to so many new places and have seen some really great sights. I am Looking forward to having my very own truck soon and running my own tours. It’s great seeing how others do things but I can not wait to get going. We are coming in to busy season so hopefully it will be sooner rather than later. I don’t think I will be home for a while still but life on the road is pretty amazing. I am happy to be here. Next stop Malawi. Kande Beach had better not disappoint!

And so after the escapades of Dar and Zanzibar, it is time to hit the bar for one last beer. Cheers Tanzania. It has been amaze balls.

Masterchef Serengeti

olliegoldson — Sun, 27 Apr 2014 22:51:00 GMT

Tanzania!!!!

We arrived here on Wednesday after what was a really good drive down. Didn’t start off too good being stuck in Nairobi traffic but once we were out on the main road we made up for it and made it here in good time.

The drive down is so beautiful, especially with it being so green from all the rains. I can’t say I have traveled that road so much, in fact I don’t think I have as I have had no reason too but I am recommending it. Not sure what you will do down there as there doesn’t seem to be much a long the way but it is definitely something to keep in mind if you ever want to head to Tanzania for a mini break. The Namanga Hill reserve mountain ranges alone are pretty incredible, sadly I didn’t take any photos as my camera was locked away but when I do that road again I shall make sure that I take lots to make up for it. After the boarder the rolling hills and climbs in to Arusha make for an amazing view too. The landscape is quite similar to Kenya in the respect of the vegetation but the rolling hills are nothing like I have seen. Ok so I haven’t traveled round much of my own country either so I am sure that if I looked hard enough then yes I would see something similar but winding in and out of the greenery was a good way to end a long journey. And how can I forget Kili?? Well sadly we didn’t see the peak of it as it was behind the clouds but I have put in my order for a clear day the next time I drive that road so I can really get a good look at it. After the beautiful drive we finally arrived in Arusha. We had a quick stop at the shops for a chance to buy some more food for dinner and the group had a chance to sit down and enjoy a Zanzibar coffee. Not sure how well their coffees went down after I suggested a dinner of beef tongue, chicken feet or roasted goat, there were a few unamused faces. Luckily for them I was feeling nice so I opted for some steaks instead. Besides I was a little hungry and couldn’t even begin to imagine chowing down on either of those options myself. I told them that they caught me on a good day, this was after all Africa and one should eat like an African to get the true experience of life as a local here! Much to their relief we packed the steaks and headed off to the campsite with one last stop a long the way.

Tanzania as you should all know is famous for Tanzanite, there is only one mine in the whole of this country where you can get them from. Being here we had to stop and have a look at some of the stones. Not being able to go to the mine itself as it is rather a way away we stopped at the Cultural Heritage Centre to look at the already cut version of this precious stone. Sadly we caught them on a bad day as they were doing some refurb on their counter and so they had no display to show us but after some grovelling he said he could show us a sneaky peak of an order that he is going to be shipping off to China. With the stones being worth around USD500 per karat I was pretty excited to see exactly how much someone in China would be ordering. It was a large order to put it simply. The stones were beautiful and I was indeed jealous. But that was all we were allowed. Just a sneaky peak. He didn’t even go through any information with us but as we didn’t want to buy any he didn’t see the point. Fair enough but also A bit annoying really. I will be back again with other tours so I will catch up on it then but for the others it was a bit of a shame. Still they weren’t going to let it spoil their holiday! After the quick stone visit we walked around a bit. The Centre resembles someone with a massive African arts hoarding problem. There are carvings and tapestries a plenty, soap stone ornaments and beaded things galore amongst many other knick knacks. With some time to spare we walked around and I had a chance to purchase my first Christmas decoration of my adventure. I don’t think I have told you but my plan is to collect a Christmas decoration from every place that I go so that when I have a chance to have my own Christmas tree it will be filled with happy memories and good times spent on the roads in Africa.

Purchases in hand we headed to the campsite. Through yet some more beautiful scenery we finally arrived at Meserani Snake Park where I stayed for a couple of days with the driver while the group headed off to the Serengeti and Ngorongoro crater. Another great shame that I wouldn’t be able to go but there will indeed be other chances.

I know some of you have been to Meserani Snake Park before but check out their Facebook page and website and if you are ever around Arusha pop in.

http://www.meseranisnakepark.com/

Ma and BJ the owners are lovely and they hand out cuddles like candy. The guides say that they get looked after there so well that they wish they never had to leave. The cuddles are also good if you are having a bad day. They are like the travellers grand parents. Always nice to catch up with and always with plenty of beers and good food in hand! I look forward to spending much more time with them, I feel like I have known them forever already!
As it turns out though, they have known my family for some time. Many years ago my auntie or Shoshi as we like to call her used to live in Arusha and indeed spent many a night drinking whiskey and swinging from the rafters. Ma was slightly concerned that there was another one from the Lury bunch hanging around but I assured her that I would not be swinging from the rafters any time soon. The concerned look still on her face. Something told me she didn’t believe me! It was good hearing about all the stories from back in the day, clearly nothing had changed much!

After a quick unpack of the truck and set up of camp the boys in the group got down to some cooking. We all sat round in a semi circle, it was like watching tv back at home actually. They made for quite an entertaining cookery program. Hence the name of this blog post. Max came out with some corker one liners. Have a look at the quotes page. I have added a couple of the good ones on there. After a really delicious meal we were again treated to some really great English Entertainment. Another Acacia truck was in town and it was their last night so they were having a large one. Drinking games and gallons of punch later it was quite messy. Sam, their tour leader had heard that I was in town and so decided that she would take me under her wing and introduce me to the Acacia way of doing things. Slightly daunted by this I was dragged (literally) to the bar and was told that it was time for my initiation. I have seen some horrific initiations in my time so as you can imagine I was not looking forward to this. All the other guides from all other tours got involved so I braced myself for a messy evening. Thankfully Ma was feeling kind so handed me what I thought was her aptly named Ma’s Revenge but instead was a really delicious shot of some pink stuff with Amarula. Not sure what it was but it was good. A night out on that… Easy. But that was it. One shot and My initiation was over and everyone was welcoming me in to the overland family. To say I was relieved was an understatement. The other tour leaders then came up to me and said that all the grief they had been giving me was also part of the initiation (I just thought they were mean) and they said that I did really well. They didn’t expect to get s*** back so were quite surprised when they did. And knowing me I know you can all imagine that they got it back good. After all that was done we spent the majority of the night in the world famous Ma’s Bar. I wasn’t allowed to leave until the last guide went to bed so as you can imagine I was happy at the thought of a lie in the next day. A lie in I did not get as I wanted to see the group off to the Serengeti and to run through a few things but after they were on the road I headed straight for bed. The rest of the day was pretty uneventful. Oh apart from my lunch of goat that I had to try and force down. I hate goat. I never have and I never will but I felt rude not eating it so I stomached a bit. Luckily it came with ugali and cabbage which I love but still it took everything not to throw up straight away. All the others were loving it and I just couldn’t. It was grim. Still though I had to eat some so I covered in it tomato sauce to try and hide the taste a bit more and pretty much swallowed it whole. I can safely say that I still don’t like goat and will never eat it again. Grim stuff. After lunch I spoke to some more guides and caught up on my notes and stuff then headed to the bar for dinner. I met some other guides there too so of course had to have a couple of beers with them. They all seem so nice so I was quite happy to know that we would be seeing a lot more of each other a long the road. I also met another trainee so it was nice not being the only newbie. Ok so he had been on the road much longer than I had but him and his crew looked after me well and gave me some good pointers. I was quite surprised as they work for the competition but it seems that is life here. They all help each other out regardless of who they work for. It was so refreshing actually. I have to admit that I expected otherwise. We had a good time over dinner though and it reminded me of dinner in Rumbek. It was just like a family sitting down and catching up, by the end of it it was like we had know each other forever. It did make me miss my Rumbek family though I won’t lie but I enjoyed telling everyone all about them. And don’t worry, I miss my real family too… Although dinner conversations wouldn’t have met the civilised standards of my family. The people of Rumbek would know what I am talking about… A little less news and current affairs and a little more of the dirty stuff! It was awesome though, and I began to feel right at home.

Friday was also really quiet. I slept most of the day because I couldn’t keep my eyes open for some reason but I did have a chance to take some photos of the birds around here. The bird life here is amazing. I don’t think I have seen so many love birds all in one place! I also cleaned the truck and organised my locker a bit more as well as doing some research and things. Then it was lunch time… I feared the worst. More goat. But luckily I made friends with people in the kitchen and they saved me some if their sukuma wiki. They were pretty chuffed actually as that meant more goat for them! And I was happy because its been a while since I have eaten the local food and here they cook it so well. A really good lunch was had and I was happy that I didn’t have to chew on copious amounts of chewing gum to get the taste of goat out if my mouth. I would have gone in to town for some chips mayai which is famous around here but town seemed pretty far away and I simply couldn’t be bothered. Lazy I know. But hopefully we will have another chance to go through town when the others are back. If not I will save it for the next time I am in Arusha. With yet another family dinner full of laughter and more beer it was another end to a great day. I’m beginning to love Tanzania even though I have only seen a small bit of it. I do look forward to spending much more time here, I think I could love Tanzania as much as I love Kenya. I am adding it to the list of must see places… Hopefully the rest of it will be just as good. I have high hopes. We are after all going to be in Zanzibar in about 4 days passing through Dar and some other Tanzanian towns. I could be speaking too soon as this is Africa but I have heard some good stories so am remaining positive. So far though, not a bad start to a journey down Africa. Happy days!

Hanging Around

olliegoldson — Sun, 27 Apr 2014 22:49:00 GMT

I love Nairobi. For a few days, its a great place to hang around but for five days its a little too much for me. Don’t get me wrong, I have had a great time and caught up with many old friends and met some new ones along the way too but I am done. I long for the bush and the simple quiet life where the dramas of the city are out of sight and out of mind.

I was supposed to be enjoying the mud and rainy days in the Mara but plans changed, it turned out that they just couldn’t send me so I found myself in Nairobi for longer than expected. Aside from it being too many days it has actually been great. I met the driver and the other tour leader and spent a couple of days in and out of the Nairobi base with them. For people who have been doing this for a long time they seem like great people to be starting this adventure with so it was a relief to know that indeed we could get on well with each other. The first day was spent cleaning and organising the truck. Not very exciting but it was nice to finally have everything organised in my new mobile home so that if I was asked where the butter would be I would know where to look for it. Plus I also had a sneaky peak inside one of the lockers to establish if my mountain of belongings would fit, turns out that it wouldn’t so a re-think on the packing front was a must. After everything was organised and sorted I headed home, thankfully home is literally across the road making my life easy. And when I say home I actually mean my sister in laws house. Thanks Lou Lou for letting me stay, without your Nairobi house my life would be a lot harder. So I appreciate it so much. I then had a quick bite to eat and headed out to the centre of town to meet my fellow nomads. Being Nairobi, the traffic is obviously horrendous and I am constantly complaining about this but it is just so frustrating. Out in the bush the only traffic is wildlife crossing the roads! As it is so bad here I found myself leaving 2 hours before I had to be there just in case. Luckily I did though, I got there with hardly any time to spare. Armed with my fountains of knowledge about Africa and overlanding I headed to the pre-departure meeting. The other members of the group seemed really lovely and excited so that got me excited too. Hopefully we can have some fun on our way to Namibia! I also proved to be quite useful answering many questions about dollars and diseases. I even impressed Pete the tour leader which is a good start. Fake it till you make it right?? After that was all done, I had a chance to sit down with Pete and discuss working for Acacia Adventure Tours a little bit more. I think we will be a good fit, it seems like things will go well but it is early days yet and I am still to pass my training. Anyway after that it was home to bed, after being in holiday mode for so long going back to work is exhausting! I also don’t think my late night on Friday helped either.

Sunday morning after the group left for the Mara I had some paperwork to take care of and then was off for the rest of the day. Finally a chance to really catch up with people, and that I did. Thanks to all who were there at Sunday lunch. It was so nice seeing you all and we definitely must catch up again when I get back! As for Monday, well I spent the morning re-packing. Turns out I don’t need all of that stuff and my bag is a hell of a lot lighter with more space for goodies a long the way. My new mantra is “if I don’t have it, I will just have to live without it”. After that it was a civilised lunch all by my lonesome and then a not so civilised dinner with my crazy aunt and cousins. A final catch up with the rest of the family and some more friends before work really started on Tuesday.

Tuesday was quiet, well the morning was anyway. The afternoon I spent most if it trying to pack my locker. Thankfully I left a lot of stuff behind, it’s a tight squeeze! I then set up the breakfast table and cooker for Wednesday morning as we planned for an early departure.
After we put the tents up and the group re-packed their stuff Pete and I headed out for some shopping. Just a few things for the start of our journey and to keep us fed for the next few days. The shopping was then packed in to the truck and we settled down to a delicious meal cooked for us by the team at Indaba camp in Karen. After all was organised and sorted for the last time before our departure the group and I sat down at The Rubber Arm and got stuck in to a few bevvies to catch up on all the drama and excitement from the Mara. It was so refreshing to see that they were all still so excited! This was a good start to what is going to be a long journey down Africa! Full to the brim on food it was early to bed for a long day of driving to Tanzania the next day.

It is now Wednesday morning and I find myself sitting in the truck listening to all the excited stories from the others and In between being bombarded with yet more questions about Africa I find time to update you all. Things are going great so far and I am glad to be finally out of Nairobi and to be at the beginning of very exciting times ahead. Hopefully today’s driving is met with few problems and we arrive safe and sound in Arusha. I will of course update you again whilst I am there. Until then, thanks for reading and please keep following!

Next Stop: Tanzania!! Jealous much?

He who would travel happily must travel light ~ St. Exupery

olliegoldson — Sun, 27 Apr 2014 22:45:00 GMT

All packed and ready to go. Yup. Never thought it would happen but I can safely say I am finally done. My life for the next few months has fitted in to a 70 litre backpack as my main bag and a small 35 litre backpack for the stuff I need during the day. Quite surprising really considering all the stuff I am taking with me.

I am not going to lie, this has been quite a stressful process. The idea of backpacking is that you take what you need but not too much either. The idea of traveling light has never been my forte, so as you can imagine trying to fit everything I could possibly need for life on the road in to 70 litres was quite a challenge but I think I have done it. Ok so the bag weighs a whopping 18 kilos but I have packed for all eventualities and within the suggested limit. Pretty impressive if you ask me. So what have I packed exactly, well below is a list of items I suggest to take and a few links from websites that I used as a guideline. I have also added in the list given to me by the company that I am going to hopefully work for.

Things I have taken:

Sleeping bag, small pillow, quick drying trousers (not the zip off kind, not many can pull those off), waterproof jacket, thin but toasty fleece, kikois, shorts, skirts, long and short sleeved shirts, vest tops, underwear including sports bra, socks (thick and thin), bikini, swimming costume, boardies, cardigan, smart outfit for a special occasion, black pumps, 2 pairs of flip flops, some tackies (trainers to everyone else), and sturdy walking shoes. I wasn’t sure whether to take boots or shoes but have gone for shoes for space saving.Yea I know, so much but I am pretty sure that I will at some point be using most of this.

A long with all my clothing I have taken a well stocked first aid kit with antibiotics, antiseptic stuff, wound dressing, needles and syringes, painkillers, antihistamines, anti-acid, anti-malarial, stuff to stop diarrhea, scissors, tweezers, papaya ointment, bandages, safety pins, antiseptic wipes and sudocrem. Hopefully I wont be needing any of these but you never know, this is after all Africa and the last thing that I fancy doing is being ill or needing to visit one of those grim local joints. I visited enough of those in my time in Rumbek and that was enough for me.

As well as clothes and first aid kits I am taking some gadgets with me like a camera and all that comes with it as well as my iPad and phone. I would take my iPod with me if it wasn’t broken. Obviously take the chargers etc for all of these and make sure that they are covered under your insurance if not then get separate insurance for them. I have added a head torch and pocket knife too and spare batteries just in case.

And lastly my wash bag and toiletries. In there I have shampoo, conditioner, soap, face wash, moisturizer, face cream, deodorant, wet wipes, sponge, razor and blades and a hair brush. I have also taken with me as a luxury item some make-up (only some eyeliner pencils and mascara) and some perfume.

In my day bag I have some guidebooks because I like highlighting and writing notes in them, my wallet, all my travel documents and photocopies of these. I have also added a few pens and the like just in case as well as spare zip lock bags for wet stuff or for waterproofing. Hopefully they will do the job.

So yes it seems like a lot but to be honest everything I have taken will be useful in one way or another. The first aid kit was possibly a little extreme but it is better to be safe than sorry, especially when you don’t know what you might pick up a long the road or if you will find the right drugs.

The following links are what I used as a guideline for my packing. I thought I would add them in for anyone who is planning on traveling to get a better idea of what others are taking too. These are like I said only a guideline and my list is my personal choice. Not all of these are necessary and I am sure that you may think I have left something out but I am happy with this and feel comfortable that I will manage just fine for life on the road.

http://www.acacia-africa.com/travel_info/what_to_pack.php

http://www.africantravels.com/Travel-info/What-to-bring

http://www.overlandingafrica.com/blog/africa/pack-like-overland-crew

http://www.travelindependent.info/whattopack.htm

Since all packing is now done, I head to Nairobi tomorrow for one last hoorah and for a last minute chance to pick up anything I need and then I depart for the Mara on Sunday after meeting the crew I will be traveling with as well as the others who have decided that over-landing is the way to see Africa. It’s all very exciting really and I can’t wait. The weather is a bit of a worry as it would seem that the Mara is underwater but its is all part of the adventure. Saying goodbye to my family and friends at home tonight and having some last snuggles with my nephew for a while then I am outta here.

I am a bit sad to leave the comforts of my home and the company of familiar faces but I have wanted to travel Africa for a while so the levels of excitement are making up for it. I have also been itching to get back to work after 3 months of being a lazy bum so I am looking forward to having the much needed income again as well as something to do that doesn’t include watching honey boo boo child or total wipeout on TV.

Until then, I am sorry that this post isn’t so much of an exciting thing to read but packing seemed like a good place to start. Like I said I am not much of a writer but I promise that at least the content of posts will improve over the coming months. I hope to make you all a little jealous and to ignite some travel interest in some of you. This is my Africa experience, my adventure starts now and I am excited!