Makan Angin

Singapore Send Off

ollie_follies — Thu, 31 Dec 2009 15:46:00 GMT

We have had to make a quick return to Singapore so the kids can catch their flight to Sydney to be back in time for Christmas. We stayed again at The Royal India which is a bit expensive ($100 Aus.) for a family room but is in a great position for our dining forays. The group has reached a decision to spend a day shopping on Orchard Road, a day at the zoo and a day of rest before the kid's flight.

Orchard Road is unbelievable. Now that the locals have embraced Christmas giving in major way the crowds are in full flight two days before Christmas Eve. The road is just department store after department store and the girls are happy, happy, happy. Geordie and I are happy to roam Mustafa's as it is closer to home. The MRT system is wonderful and it does make getting around in Singapore cheap and convenient.

We have discovered a yum cha/dim sum shop and an internet cafe on the same block as The Royal India so we don't have to move far. The yum cha shops are slowly disappearing due to their easygoing nature (the idea is to sit, drink tea and eat snacks) and the younger generation don't have the time to spend. We also find an Indian favourite, with chapati and veg. curries. on Serangoon Road and eat their each night. The added bonus is the a sweets shop is directly across the road so each meal is not complete until we have demolished a few gulab jamuns. Stick to Serangoon Road and you can't miss them.

The Zoo is not just fantastic it has actually improved and must now rank as one of the best in the world surely. I haven't been to San Diego but wow this would be hard to beat. Probably our favourite spot was a little publicised enclosure where you could walk through and be up close with mouse deer, lemurs, sloth and baby and quite a few parrots esp. at feeding time! The Ethiopian Drift Valley exhibit with the Baboons, the polar bear enclosure and the primate area were our favourites. We took the MRT and the bus option to get there which was painless and took about 1hr and 20 min. the Zoo bus was our return option but it goes directly to Orchard Road and traffic so if you are staying in Little India it is not such a good option.

The children flew home with Singapore Airlines and were given priority status which meant they were escorted through customs both ways and looked after by staff during the trip. They enjoyed the Toblerone chocolates particularly. If you need to use the service it is just a matter of requesting it and ensuring that whomever meets them at the other end has formal identification eg driver's licence.

Return to Lake Toba

ollie_follies — Tue, 22 Dec 2009 19:42:00 GMT

The long awaited return to Toba proved to be well worth the wait and the cost of getting there quickly. We left the Old Penang Guesthouse in Georgetown at 7.30 am and were in our Batak house in Tuk Tuk at 4.30 pm. I love this new and easy travelling although it did cost 500,000 rupiah (c.$62 Aust)to get a taxi from Medan Airport direct to Parapet on the lakeside.Given our response(the kids had a little culture shock) to having to stay in Medan on the return it was great idea!!

We met Ben, a smooth but reliable young local, on arrival and he soon had us in residence at Bagus Bay Bungalows. We were all swimming within the hour and enjoying the cool, clean water of Toba. Our Batak house cost 175,000/night for upstairs and down with balcony views of the lake. The only drawback was the low ceiling upstairs and the fact that the bottom floor was flooded on the last night. Though this proved to be a thrill for the kids!

We ate mostly at B.B. where the food was unchanged from 20 years ago. Mostly variations of western food with some standard locals. It was always fresh and tasty and the only illness during our week came from a snack we ate in Tomok down the road. Mostly we just swam and walked and read and played pool and had a great, lazy time. Hired bikes one day and rode to Tomok then to Ambarita to see the ceremonial stones.

The kids were blown away by the whole scene of travellers hanging out and the amazing scenery around Toba. They both expressed a desire to return there one day which was the first mention of such a thought during our trip.

Photos: Penang

ollie_follies — Thu, 17 Dec 2009 20:37:00 GMT

Memories of Chulia Street

ollie_follies — Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:14:00 GMT

I had been looking forward to a return to Chulia St and Georgetown for ten years or more. One of the main aims of this trip was to share a few memories with my children of the good times I had in Georgetown in the late 70's and early 80's. It was in the Tye Ann Hotel and the numerous bars around town that I met many good friends whom remain that to the present.

While I found that Penang hadn't changed a great deal (probably due to its heritage status) many of the sites had changed ownership or were in a derelict state. Still I found it to be the usual friendly city it had always been and for us, of course, the variety of food was still amazing. We walked through Chinatown late at night and though the clack of Mahjong tiles was missing there was still the sight of families socialising at the front of their shophouses and business going on well into the night.

As we found in Taiping the yum cha houses had disappeared but we eventually found one on Lebuh Kimberley (see photo gallery). The old wet market was still in action one block over from Chulia and I managed a beer or two in the Hong Kong Bar. We ventured out to the night food market on Gurney Drive but it was overwhelmingly busy and difficult to get transport back into town. The food was good though and we sampled Assam Laksa and Cendol which were both up to standard. The Indian restaurants were still the most economical and tasty with the naan and sotong(squid)curry at Mustafa's, down the ferry end of Chulia, a good choice.

Due to some misinformation re. the ferry to Medan we decided to take advantage of the cheap flights now available and flew to Medan ($400 MR Return each). We were able to organise transport on arrival at Medan and were in our rooms at Lake Toba by 5.00pm that afternoon. This modern travel certainly beats the old slow boats and public buses we were once forced to use due to the exorbitant costs of flights.

The Town Of Eternal Peace

ollie_follies — Tue, 15 Dec 2009 18:32:00 GMT

Despite having travelled through the region on numerous occasions I hadn't previously taken the time to visit Taiping. I now know why, in Malaysia,it is referred to as The Town Of Eternal Peace. It is a real gem to be found at the end of one of those detours you're always tempted to take but don't for some reason or other.

We intended to stay for one night and have a quick peek at its host of colonial buildings. They are great to see but there is also a sense of calm and quiet and about the town and the residents that slows you down and we managed to get out three days later. The old English schools and government buildings dotted across the city easily recreate a time past for the children and myself. There are also some fabulous old Chinese shophouses that are slowly being restored. The traffic was concentrated on just a couple of streets and therefore getting around was easy and a lot less stressful.

We ventured into the Taiping Lake Gardens one morning with the mist slowly rising to expose the locals walking, jogging and completing their tai chi routines by the water's edge in the company of numerous birds and monkeys. The gardens are extensive and well used and it is easy to find a shady spot away from the rest of the world. Of course we couldn't leave without a visit to Maxwell Hill high above the town. The landrover takes approx.40 minutes to reach a viewing area a little below the summit and the journey incorporates 72 hairpin bends so it can get a little hard on your back if you're not in the front seats (which we weren't!!). We did walk on a bit further and came to the Cendol Guesthouse with a fantastic view of the city so I may return for a stay as I come back through Malaysia after Christmas.

While in Taiping we also discovered the BEST Chicken Rice restaurant in the country we think and returned there for lunch each day. It is called 'Kedai Kopi Kok Beng' and is on Jalan Kota. Just around the corner a young couple have started a pastry shop and it was also serving good snacks. There is a yum cha restaurant on Jalan Kota just up from the Panorama Hotel in the same block as The Clocktower. The yum cha's are disappearing across Malaysia as the young people are not as interested in this style of food or so the people I spoke to thought. It is also noticeable that they are generally patronised by old people who wish to drink tea and eat slowly.

Before I sign out I need to wish my class in Australia a Merry Christmas and happy summer holidays as they finish school tomorrow. All the best to the school leavers in Brod, Keith and Sophie and to Christiane and Liana who have been looking after them in my absence. There are some great handbag stores over here!!

Photos: Taiping

ollie_follies — Sun, 13 Dec 2009 21:40:00 GMT

City of Eternal Peace

Pulau Pangkor: A Fishy Tale

ollie_follies — Mon, 7 Dec 2009 19:40:00 GMT

Yes we finally made it to Pulau Pangkor but not after a few more hiccups. Anyone travelling with a CashPassport card should know that the MBankMalaysia will not accept them so after a prolonged trip around Lumut I was able to access an ATM and we made it to the island with some cash in hand.

After the guide books had warned us off Bogac beach we opted to find a place at Nipah but it didn't take long to realise that Nipah had now become the favoured spot.The locals have managed to block out any view of the beach unless you are actually on the beach. The whole road has been consumed by food or clothing stalls of an extremely haphazard structure. For Australians the beach is a minor anti-climax but that isn't unusual. The water is a bit cloudy,tepid in temperature and leaves a fine film of brown on your body when you come out. The location though is beautiful especially early morning or late evening when the proliferation of watercraft is diminished.

My recommendation would be to find a spot on Coral Bay the next beach around from Nipah. There is a bungalow tucked in the southern corner which is right on the beach and would be great for a long stay but was unfortunately booked for the extent of our time there. There are lots of options for accommodation and I would recommend you spend time looking before deciding. We stayed at Ombak Inn just up the last lane on the northern end. Great hosts and a clean bungalow.

The food on the whole is poor compared to what is available on the mainland. We were looking forward to lots of fresh fish but the standard of cooking and the raw product was below par.Much of the fish was red flesh,seriously overcooked and prepared in unhygienic conditions so I would recommend sticking to the restaurants and guesthouses and choosing standards like nasi goreng and mee goreng and/or western specials.

Of course our departure wasn't without the usual misinformation problems. We checked our guidebook info with the hosts who confirmed that we didn't have to book a bus to Taiping as there were at least 5/day from Lumut.On our arrival at Lumut bus station we were informed that there was only ONE bus to Taiping each day and it left at 9.30 am each day. Fortunately an Indian store keeper was ableto negotiate for us to hitch a ride on a Butterworth bus which dropped us in an unknown town where we were to catch a blue bus to Taiping. His prediction was true thanks to the help of the Butterworth driver who hailed the blue bus for us and we completed a side of the road swap.

Taiping is great but more news and info about it in the next instalment!!

Langorous Lumpur

ollie_follies — Sat, 5 Dec 2009 16:35:00 GMT

Smooth and stylish or chaotic and cramped you have to make your own decision about Kuala Lumpur. I found it a different city from 15 years ago in both its skyline and its people. Truly a modern cosmopolitan city now it was difficult to find your way round and the beautiful old historic buildings around Merdeka Square had taken a back seat to the new stars ie Petronas Towers and Menara Kuala Lumpur. I did manage to find The Coliseum Hotel which still serves the coldest beer in a bar full of expats(drunk or otherwise).

We lined up for 1.5 hours to get tickets for the Petronas tour which was a bit of an anti-climax as you only go up to the 44th floor. Perhaps it would be better to pay the $20 Ringitt for the Tower tour.Having a 13 year old girl in tow meant we had to do the tour of the shopping malls. Spectacular, as they really are something else, especially Times Tower which has a 5 storey amusement park inside and The Pavilion with its enormous Christmas display.

The food on offer was probably once again our highlight and we found ourselves returning to Jalan Alor(Golden Triangle area)each night for seafood feasts. Large fish in sauce, satay,vegetables and meat dish with drinks incl. beer/fruit juice costing approx.$30 Aust.ie for three people.Geordie was still addicted to Roti Canai and was very happy when he discovered he didn't have to leave our hostel grounds(ordering through the fence)to feed his need.

We decided to head from KL to Kuala Selangor to see the fireflies and did our research even getting the hostel manager to call the bus station to confirm. We were told to catch Bus 141 from Platform 24 at Puduraya. When we got to Pudaraya it was to discover there are only(you guessed it!) 23 platforms.After an hour of directions and discussions we found the bus stop on Jalan Medan Pasar. Yes still Bus 141. On arrival in K Selangor where we told we could get a bus or taxi to resort we found that neither was available.After some time and discussion a local guy gave us a lift to the resort.For anyone considering going the same route you then need to negotiate a lift out of there. We were able to get a taxi(?) to Lumut for $200 Ringitt. The firefly tour was great even though it was short and well worth the trouble of getting to and from.

Photos: Kuala Lumpur

ollie_follies — Tue, 1 Dec 2009 23:53:00 GMT

Food and Sights

Gallery: Melaka

ollie_follies — Sat, 28 Nov 2009 20:16:00 GMT

Sights and Food

Melaka Meanderings

ollie_follies — Sat, 28 Nov 2009 17:51:00 GMT

We left Singapore on Thursday 26th Nov. travelling by air-con bus ($20Sin) to Melaka, a 4.5 hr trip on the highway. After some confusion at Melaka Central bus station (for more than 2 people take a taxi!!) we arrived at Riverview Guesthouse which has surpassed all the rave reviews on the Hostelworld site. The only budget place right on the river it is managed by a Malaysian couple undertaking a seachange venture and they have nailed it. homemade cookies on the table as we checked in, helpful but not invasive, and the place is clean, airy and roomy. Max. number of guests is 14 at any time so never crowded or noisy but is right in the middle of the Heritage area. My teenage kids love it!

We happened to be here the weekend of the Hari Raya Aidiladha so it has been busy particularly around Jonker Street. There have been queues for the popular restaurants ie Fomosa Rice Ball/Capitol Satay/Jonker 88(Cendol and Laksa)but otherwise no problems. We have particularly enjoyed eating at Sin Yin Hoe (cnr Jalan Kampong Pantai/Lrg.Hang Jebat)especially Soft Shell Crab, Chicken in Ginger and Pork in Yam Ring. Meal for three with drinks costs $40 Sin/$13 Aust.

Our breakfasts have been at Savana on Jalan Temenggong an Indian vegetarian serving cheap and delicious dosai,roti,chapati and murtabak. Raymond and Mani at Riverview also love their makanan and are a fount of info on eating anything in Melaka. Don't miss a chendol though especially for the kids as the local variety is covered in gula melaka and is yummo!!

We have attempted to do some tourist places but the rain has started and we have been a little restricted in our outings. Enjoying being lazy and hanging out with the guest cast at Riverview which is always changing. The kids have met Japanese, Spanish,English and Malay Chinese in just two days.

Gallery: Singapore

ollie_follies — Wed, 25 Nov 2009 21:07:00 GMT

Mustafa's Kingdom

ollie_follies — Wed, 25 Nov 2009 20:32:00 GMT

Arrived in Singapore early hours of Tuesday morning to our first problem. A learning curve for the kids. Our hotel was under repair and unable to accommodate us. We then moved to the Claremont hotel a small,damp and dark box.We are now resident in the Royal India in the heart of Little India.

We're all amazed at how the night never ends there are always people on the street in Little India. Its a wonder of smells,sights and sounds unlike the rest of sophisticated Singapore. We have become fans of the Mustafa Empire Supermarket which stays open 24hours and sells everything from pegs to gold bullion. Geordie has become addicted to Roti Channai and appears to be gaining rather than losing weight. Last night we visited the Street Hawker Market in Boon Tat street and had satay and es kachang(shaved ice concoction). Dad had a song dedicated to him by the resident band celebrating his honeymoon and birthday thanks to an enthusiastic satay seller.

We have been impressed with the skyline and architectural wonder of the new Singapore. The buildings exhibit a vast array of colour and geometric shapes. We have found the MRT a great way to get around the city being cheap,clean,cool and quick.

Today we travelled to the Jurong Bird Park and enroute saw the incredible housing developments which dominate Singapore Island. Hornbills,Toucans and Flamingoes were certainly worth the visit. Tomorrow we are off to Melaka by air-con bus. This should take us 4.5 hours and has cost $20 each.

Gallery: Family

ollie_follies — Fri, 16 Oct 2009 12:58:00 GMT