Scenic Route

I learned a lot today…

msteven6 — Sat, 17 Jul 2010 10:32:00 GMT

...a lot about the hazards of living in a tropical environment, new words, and a lot about myself as well (apparently I don’t handle pain as well as I thought I did):

· Verma means worm in Portuguese… I wish someone had recorded the interaction with me and my doctor when he said that “Voce tem um verma no seu pe”… Ok, I understand the “voce tem” and the “no seu pe” but what is a verma?... check the book; slow realization of the meaning of his sentence… gasp and look of horror on my face… “um VERMA?!?!?!”

· Apparently they don’t use anesthetics for such things as the peeling back of one’s toe nail and the removal of such microscopic parasites as the ones that measure as large as the eraser on a brand new bic mechanical pencil…

· A hole in your toe (the size of the aforementioned brand new Bic eraser…) doesn’t require any other bandaging and care besides a piece of gauze and some masking tape…

· There are such things as parasites that burry themselves under your toe nails… They are called “Tunga penetrans – Bicho de pe” and according to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tunga_penetrans,

o The chigoe flea or jigger (Tunga penetrans) is a parasitic arthropod found in tropical climates, especially South and Central America and the West Indies. At 1 mm long, the chigoe flea is the smallest known flea….

· “EEEeeeeewwwwww” in portuguese is “EEEeeeeewwwwww”…

· I still don’t know what “give me some anesthesia please” is in portuguese but I am about to look that up.

And above all, the most important thing I learned today was that if I have the slightest irritation or pain, or just something that looks kinda off (the black dot was small – I though a cut that got infected and “would go away”…) – I WILL BE RUNNING TO THE CLINIC TO GET IT LOOKED AT!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Can I re-state, “EEEeeeeewwwwww”!, one more time?!?

Researching – strenuous and rewarding!

msteven6 — Thu, 15 Jul 2010 08:53:00 GMT

The experiences that I am having while working on this project are exactly what I have envisioned that Rotary wanted for me… Today we departed my little “hotel” (3 spare rooms upstairs that you can rent out and use their bathroom downstairs with the rest of the household and she will also provide breakfast) and spent 8 hours riding (on a small motorcycle) from small house to small house talking to people. The first house we visited down in the valley that is shadowed by the beautiful Serra do Brigadeiro, housed a coffee farmer with about 4 hectares of eucalyptus. He and his wife of 8 years have just welcomed their first child (a son of 6 months who was all giggles and smiles as he had just woken up) into the family and are so proud of him. Their father lives with them as well and upon us departing I heard him telling a niece that came to visit that I was an “americana” and that it was the first time they had had an “estrengeiro” in their home… I think he was bragging! Another man had a son who was learning English from his TV programs and so I was asked to come and talk to him. I spoke in English greetings and who I was and where I was from, and he his his 10 year old face behind a pillow but would peak out and smile at me whenever he thought I wasn’t looking. His father informed me that he is shy around “pretty girls” but that he thinks he will grow out of that.

We encountered other very differing types of people, some young (a set of twin girls of no more than 6 years old informed us that they did have eucalyptus planted on the property but that their parents were in town at work and we would have to return another time), and some with more than 70 years who are still working hard in the coffee fields. At each house we were offered coffee and when we refused each time they informed us that it was the coffee they grew themselves and it was of superior quality. I have, fortunately, become good at giving the excuse of a headache from coffee and therefore am able to turn down the offer for “medical reasons”. Their houses are varied as well but all seem to be of adequate size. They are made of bricks made of clay with a type of plaster made with clay as well, applied over top. The walls are often painted bright colors and the floors are either tile or concrete, depending on their economic status. They have couches and “easy chairs” just as we do but often they do not face the tv but instead each other, in a semi-circle that facilitates family interaction (which can often be lively and loud as each family member talks over top of the other and tries to make themselves heard).

They have large concrete “patios” in front of their house in which they dry the coffee beans. This is where we often encounter the people this time of year, barefoot and raking coffee beans back and forth in front of their house. Chickens and dogs run around with them as they work, with the chickens often pecking at a bean or two until they figure out they can’t eat it. The dogs are all mutts and most are of a “medium size” which is lucky for us strangers that come *knocking* at their door. In fact, when we approach it is the custom in this region to *clap to announce your presence. So, if a gate is close enough to the house we will stay on the other side of it and clap many times (a mini-applause) until the “Donna da Casa” pokes her head out of one of the windows. Only then will we enter through the gate and wait for her to emerge from the house in order to ask to speak with her husband. The people of this area work very hard, (as there isn’t a single one I have met with “extra weight” on them), and live simply. Most everyone I have talked to has only one year of schooling and has been working many years in the coffee fields, often receiving their land from their parents and working side by side with their neighbors/brothers and brother-in-laws.

We left the last household after a salmon sunset, viewed from well above the valley floor, and returned in the 50 degree night air to town (via the 12 km dirt road) underneath of a concert of stars and the sliver of a moon just barely rising above the dramatic peaks of the mountain range. The milky-way was particularly visible and therefore I was glad to be hanging on and not driving so that I could allow myself to be mesmerized by the show. What a night (with more just like it to come, I hope).

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=375602&id=586190520&l=bab93f4926

Tour of eucalyptus near Juiz de Fora, MG

msteven6 — Thu, 15 Jul 2010 07:15:00 GMT

I very much hope that I can convey to you(all) how priceless the experience of Rotary involvement has been for me. Each time that I am able to interact with a Rotary person, it is a treat; a treat to watch the sun set in a different place than I have ever been before… have dinner on a patio with three to four languages being spoken, and above all discuss cultural differences with such caring and nice people as the Rotary members that I have met.

I wish that I could explain the precious experiences that my Rotary involvement brings to me… I could describe the pink glow cast on the blue/gray clouds over top of Daniel’s densely forested mountains, or the feel of the polished leather saddle beneath me as one of the beautiful white horses of Manoel’s trotted through his sprawling farm, or the crunch of the debris under my feet as I followed Leonardo through his recently cut eucalyptus stand in the mountains outside of Juiz de Fora… but, I just can’t explain the feeling I have after such a day as today – and all thanks to my Rotary involvement.

Manoel is a local businessman; a farmer some might say, although the recent recap of his endeavors yielded too many to really classify him as such. He and I first met at the conference in Visconde do Rio Branco when I presented to the district conference of upcoming presidents. He approached me to tell me that he had “some” eucalyptus and offered his help if I ever desired it for my research. Then, again at the annual district conference in Sao Lorenco, I saw him again and therefore re-introduced myself. Upon the conclusion of that meeting we determined that I should see his farm, as it was disclosed that he in-fact has *many* eucalyptus trees. It took several weeks but he determined a time that it was convenient for both of us and offered to pick me up while traveling through Viçosa and returning home to Juiz de Fora. He owns a large fazenda with Swine, Chicken, feed (for cattle and swine) and Eucalyptus sapling (clones) production as well as another parcel of property with many hectares of plantations of eucalyptus. In addition he owns and manages a restaurant, (which serves dairy products/beef and vegetables grown on the farm – in addition to the swine and chicken, of course), a gas station and several rental properties.

He and his family (3 children, all over 25 years old, with one son still at home and one daughter living just a few gates away with her husband and adorable son) welcomed me into their home and it was a real treat! His wife was traveling to a nearby place (a resort of “health” where healthy portion sizes and choices are reinforced with exercise around the beautiful mountain region) for the extended weekend but returned Sunday before I left. They are a very healthy family, as I was fed very well but very healthy (breakfasts of a “7 grain” bread with scrambeled eggs, light turkey or ham, fruit and natural yogurt and a wonderful spread of ricotta low-fat cheese with some yogurt and savory seasoning blend; dinner of grilled fish and salad) by their housekeeper and chef. Manoel seems to be an outstanding employer as well as these household assistants were treated as part of the family and each person that I met on the farm seemed to really enjoy their job (or at least the circumstances in which they must complete the work if it was tedious). He must employ somewhere around 100 people in that community as his operations on the farm are very complex and the business is very busy. He is a leader in the community as well, (as was evident in how many people said hello as we walked by), and respected by many (as was evident in the greeting we received by his friend and the owner of the churrascaria – an “all you can eat” type place with a salad bar and a rotation of grilled meats that are brought by your table for you to select the cut you prefer (I favored the roast injected with cheese) - we gorged ourselves at following one of the strenuous tours).

Leonardo is his friend and another businessman classified as a farmer. He owns and operates a large scale forestry plantation of eucalyptus and many pastures engaged in agro-forestry with cattle and saw-timber production. He, his mother, another “farmer” (with 1500 hectares), Manoel and I toured his eucalyptus stands in order to discuss the business and for me to learn more about the large-scale production side of Eucalyptus. I now know more than I had learned in many previous visits to other farms. It was truly a priceless experience for me, this research, and my agenda for my Rotary experience.

Daniel and his wife are friends of Manoel’s as well. They live on a farm close to his and own many acres of native forest as well as a few of eucalyptus. Daniel is French, and has lived in Brazil for 14 years. Our dinner was of the highest quality of hospitality and refinement imaginable with a first course of pastries and French champagne, a meal of File with a burgundy sauce, and other traditional Brazilian dishes such as Fejão (with chicken, onion, pork, black beans, and farofa – a corn flour and egg), cooked kale with salt and oil, and of course rice to help with the consumption of Chilean wines. After dinner, fresh Brazilian fruit was served with Framboise (a French wild blackberry brandy) poured over top and followed up with locally made Brazilian cachaça (pinga) served from a small wooden barrel and poured into the most delicate glass brandy snifters. Tea followed, served in had made pottery mugs and saucers, and was made of jasmine and oranges and sweetened with some of Manoel’s honey (did I mention he produced honey as well?!)… which was almost as sweet as the smell of the jasmine bush growing 10 feet away from our veranda dining spot. The night was a bit chilly, (around 60 degrees), but the company, laughter, and a few glasses of the refined alcohol helped with the cold.

I will never forget such a pleasant day as today; one that I wish I could re-live many times over…

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=375602&id=586190520&l=bab93f4926

Tchau e até mas… (until the next wonderful Rotary experience I am able to write about!)

Eventful work

msteven6 — Wed, 9 Jun 2010 17:03:00 GMT

“What have you been up to?”… I guess with enough of these question, I should update this blog… Sorry! When life takes off it is hard to take a minute to write about it! So, see photos here of what I have been doing:

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=12687305&l=3febb797fc&id=586190520

Days are quite varied, depending on where I am (although most every day includes some reading and typing on the computer)…

The highlights of my time in Viçosa include a Rotary trip to the 2010 district conference in São Lorenço, Minas Gerais. This town is an old “natural springs” kind of place (think Hot Springs Arkansas with the large ornate hotels that were in their time, among the most lavish in the country). The conference was located in the Hotel Brasil, a large facility with beautifully restored ornate tile bathrooms, vaulted ceilings, and grand entertainment halls. This hotel is located just outside of the natural springs park, (owned by Nestle inc. and costing $3 for admittance), a beautiful place to walk and sample the natural springs. Some of these taste just fine and some… A few have natural carbonation in them as well.

At the conference, I made many new contacts and became better friends with my host club of Viçosa as well. They are a lively group, fun loving (see dancing photos) and proud of their involvement with Rotary. They were very supportive of me and encouraging during my talk – when there are 200 people in the audience it can be a bit intimidating but to see ten of your friend’s faces near the front, smiling at you, really helps! This presentation was all in Portuguese and was aimed at letting everyone know who I was and where I was from. It was limited to a 5 minute presentation and at the end I let everyone know that I would like to visit more clubs from the district and present to their clubs a longer presentation (I had 20 minutes prepared but the program was pretty full so I had to cut it down to just the highlights).

Additionally, I attended a big event with the Forestry department at UFV. They celebrated a 50 year anniversary with a conference and gala. The department is the oldest in Brazil so not only did UFV-DEF celebrate 50 years but the discipline of forestry in the whole of Brazil celebrated 50 years!

However, not all of my work involved glamorous conferences and galas… Life on the farm is rugged and beautiful; the normal schedule I keep here is – up early to catch the 8am-9am breakfast (breakfast of a hearty homemade bread, some toasted with real butter, some with homemade peanut butter with extra sugar and I suspect a hint of chocolate; coffee from the local fields, with milk from the local cow – boiled for “pasteurization” – served hot of course; and a banana or orange from the tree), work until lunch (a hearty lunch is served around here but I try not to partake too much as it just makes this American lazy in the afternoon…), work some more from my desk in my little house (until about 2pm when the no-see-ums come out to feast so then I go to the hammock to continue working from within the safety of the bug net) until dinner at 7pm (a feast of rice, beans, pasta, chopped kale with tomatoes, and sometimes pão de queijo and/or meat). All of the food is grown and prepared by a local woman, Carminha. The activities of researchers and volunteers at Iracambi pays for the employment of a few people – Carminha and her sister who cook and clean, Eliab who is the volunteer-coordinator, and Marcos who tends to “gardening” type stuff but who has been known to stand in as an electrician, mechanic, carpenter, etc.! An all around helpful guy!

Days that I get out into the community to talk to people are a real delight for me. Sometimes this is on foot and sometimes a horse or motorcycle is needed. Either way, I get to interact with people doing my best to understand and be understood as the local accent is rather “country”. People are generally patient, however, and interested in your interest in them. Iracambi has a good reputation with the people of the community and they are beginning to see the value in “eco-tourism” activities. So much that a hotel (of sorts… more like a home-stay in town) has sprung up in Limeira and locals are beginning to construct wares with the “Serra do Brigadeiro” logo on them.

Iracambi has had a big event since I have been here, which was a nice change from the daily quiet life on the farm, in which 75 people made a trek here from town (12km away). They walked in and listened to lectures on environmental issues that the Serra faces. While here they hiked a trail, watched Iracambi’s video (available here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wO3-_Gf7gWw) and had lunch (a big feat for Carminha as she is used to cooking for less than 20 people…) of a regional stew – comprised of locally made sausage (in the real casing) with manioc (a potato) and corn meal (think the texture of polenta but all mixed into the stew). It was a successful day and I was able to meet several people from the community that I had never seen before; a real treat!

So, that is an idea of my varied activities; I will try to keep you posted on future activities (highlights I am looking forward to: trail maintenance on the dawn trail, a trip to Juiz de Fora to visit a Rotary member’s home and Eucalyptus plantation, a visit to Rio de Janeiro to meet my Rotary scholarship coordinator in person!, and of course… I am in Brazil after all… the World Cup 2010 from South Africa starting tomorrow! GoooooooOOOOOO Brazil!)

Studying is dangerous work...

msteven6 — Tue, 6 Apr 2010 12:00:00 GMT

Hammock failed - right in the middle of a paragraph of a rather dull political paper - and as I suddenly sat there on the tile floor, 3 feet below where I started, I contemplated "what the hell am I supposed to be doing here anyway?" (then I went and nursed my bruised right cheek).

This morning I had a meeting with the director of the NGO that I am working with. I am brainstorming (with his consultation, on ways to tweak my survey to include recent information I gained regarding a political shift in Brazil. There is a national law that protects areas with certain characteristics (within 30M of a river, 40% slope or more, at the crest of a hill). This law extends to all areas of the country, indiscriminate of their particular topography. From what you can see in my photos of the local topography, this area is very mountainous with many streams and rivers. Therefore, much of the land in Minas Gerais falls into the category of a permanent protection area and therefore can not (by law) be cultivated. However, it is widely known in Minas Gerais that many people break this law, and some people believe that they "must" break this law for survival. Therefore, there is a movement to change this law, and it is backed by many farmers (large and small scale) and by an influential Senator. Of course, this is opposed by many environmentalists.

Brazil gets much international attention when it comes to their domestic environmental policy, (especially in the last few years with the acceptance of the "theory" of Global Climate Change). I am here to contribute to the NGO's efforts in conservation and economic development in Brazil. However, these two things can sometimes be opposing goals (which is what I sat on the floor contemplating)... Which "side" is the right one? How do you find the middle ground? (and last but not least) What can I do to contribute to both sides (the needs of the people and the need for conservation of biodiversity in a valuable fragmented ecosystem)?

I believe that in order to have a successful conservation plan, you must take care of the basic needs of the people. With declining coffee prices, families are struggling for survival and therefore they will do whatever is needed to take care of their farms and families. Eucalyptus could be a viable option for them and the conservation efforts - IF it is managed carefully. Forest corridor programs are not being widely discussed in this area except for by the director of the NGO. He is beginning to promote the use of Eucalyptus for establishing corridors and is having mixed reviews. Some are concerned that corridors in general can promote the (re-) introduction of Jaguars, which are feared as they could kill valuable cattle. The only success that the director sees is in promoting economically useful corridors - which for now consists of Eucalyptus or natural forest in a "payment for environmental services" situation. Therefore, I believe it would be useful to promote corridors with Eucalyptus and native forest. A "mixing" of economic development and conservation efforts... but there is much research to be done first, as this is a bit different than what I set out to do. Changing sides or compromising?

So, off I go - finish the paper, fix the hammock, start on another paper (this time hopefully without injury). ~ Ate mas! (Until more!)

Settling into the culture

msteven6 — Thu, 25 Mar 2010 01:17:00 GMT

I found a place, "Casa do Queijo" (House of Cheese), that is wonderful... Mineiros (people of Minas) specialize in cheese because there is a lot of farm land in the area and pasture land. The typical cheese is "Quijo de Minas" (Cheese of Minas) and is similar to a mild white cheddar. They often serve it with a Goiabada dessert loaf - the Goiabada fruit (red) and sugar cooked down and formed into a brick/loaf. It is my new best friend/worst temptation... Some call it Romeo and Juliet.

Another very common dish all-over Brazil (and especially here in Minas) is the famous, "Pão de queijo" (Bread of Cheese). They are little balls of bread made of cheese; not filled with cheese but actually made of it. I don't know the recipe yet but I will soon as it is wonderful! They eat it for breakfast, dinner, a snack, etc. It can be found in just about every Paderia (Bakery) or suco (juice) stand and it is usually very cheap.

Although the food is a bit different (I made chicken salad with red grapes, onions, and peppers and made my roommate try it - they make it with yellow onion, shredded carrots, and corn), there are many things that are similar...

Viçosa is a Minas town... It is much more laid back than the big city of Rio and has a lot of "cowboys". On Monday, I was leaving the university and on the corner right by the white pillars, there were several people gathered (drinking beer from a cooler - but poured into small plastic cups so that they could split a large "40" of beer). There was also a sound of firecrackers and as I approached I was able to see that it was actually leather cracking! Several guys in boots, jeans, and t-shirts (a few of which had propper cowboy hats and belt buckels on) marked, "Cachaca e Violina", had out long leather whips and were practicing *popping* them. It appeared to be almost a fraternity sponsored gathering and reminded me much of several events you see around UT's campus.

See some more photos here of the campus, life, etc. http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=375602&id=586190520&l=bab93f4926

I just spent some time too with my roommate that I share the veranda with. Her boyfriend is in town this weekend and they have been inquisitive as to who I am and where I am from. We have spent a few hours in the sun, enjoying this beautiful day in Vicosa, talking and exchanging US/Brasil frases. For example, they use a few hand gestures that we do not; and we use a few hand gestures that they do not:

Slapping of the hands (back to palm) back and forth a couple of times - indicates "don't know" or "I think not"
A snapping type gesture that is made by pressing thumb and middle finger together while letting the index finger hang loose - as if you were packing a can of dip tobacco (don't worry - I don't dip; I just know how men pack their dip cans) - indicates "very bad" or displeasure with something; like when you find that your dog has made a mess of the trash you could make this gesture and swear, I think.
Our "ok" symbol - here it is equal to flipping someone off! This could be bad for gringos that don't know about the different meaning... Glad I was warned (although I can't say I haven't done it while climbing with friends a few times, on accident)

They also asked about my music. I pulled up you tube and shared Gillian Welch/Old Crow's "The Weight" video. They liked it so much that they re-played it and asked me to translate some of the lyrics so they had an idea about what the song meant. Difficult! "Take a load off Annie, Take a load for free" = ~"Dorma Annie, Dorma para Gratis"... Try explaining how Chester said "i'll fix your rack if you take Jack my dog". Well, I shared a bit of Doc Watson and Bill Monroe as well. They really enjoyed some of the outfits they were wearing in the 80's performances; but they also recognized the talent - commenting on how fast they were playing. I pointed out the banjo (which they don't have here) and explained the origin of some of the traditional instruments used (fiddle from Ireland immigrants, banjo originating from african slave's drums, and the spoons which came from the ancient european "bones"). She asked how we danced to it (and immitated a goofy leg-kicking dancing style that she probably has seen on a dramatization of our culture on TV) and I showed her as best I could how to "two-step". She tried to get her boyfriend to join in but I think he was a bit shy to dance. All in all, a nice afternoon in the sun on the veranda, exchanging cultures ;)

At home now

msteven6 — Tue, 23 Mar 2010 06:35:00 GMT

So I wrote the previous entry when I first arrived and have held off from posting it (so mom didn't worry and think I didn't live in a nice place). I knew it was a shock that would pass quickly as I got settled in here in Vicosa. I do think it is important for you all back home to know that I do miss it there, although I love it here too, and I think it comes through pretty clear in my "homesick" post that I realize how great East TN is and I am excited to share that with East MG.

I am settled in now. I did about 2 weeks of shopping and got everything necessary to live in my apartment, "although I (still) haven't figured out which ones sell what I need"... I am so glad that Professor Baeta encouraged me to take this open room in this "republica" (a shared apartment in which each room is rented out by either the landlord or a "Donna da Casa" - Head lady of the house); thank you. It would have been so hard to fill an apartment with all the things I would have needed (Fridge, Bed, Desk, Chairs, Pots and Pans, etc.) as I had a hard enough time shopping for everything I needed for just one room! I bought a desk, bed, and an armoire; then mattress, clothes hangers, pillow cases, comfortor (as it does get a bit chilly here at night), sheets, fan, lamp, chair, rug, curtains (as you will see I only had aluminum foil for a while), extension cord... There is a lot that goes into starting a new home for yourself that I didn't really think about. I tried to be thrifty (see curtains : ) and for the big things my roommate came along so I wouldn't get ripped off (although it is still up in the air on whether the mattress was a rip-off), and all in all I was able to stick to my budget and still create a comfortable area to call home for the year.

In the persuit of the essentials; a cultural difference popped up that I would like to share. Aparently it is not common for people to grow herbs and other edible plants on their veranda... I was wondering why people were giving me such strange looks when I asked at the store (and when I was out on the balcony sampling my basil... : ) My veranda-mate thought that was hilarious (and shared the story with her friends, I think). I think I won her over with my homemade spaghetti sauce with rosemary and basil from the veranda, though.

Rotary of Vicosa has welcomed me well too. I was invited to attend a meeting just this past Tuesday and met so many nice Rotarians (I'm not surprised ; ). They asked me to sit at the head table, as a honored guest, and allowed me a few moments to talk about myself and express my gratitude (and the gratidude of my sponsor club) for hosting me, as well as exchange the Oak Ridge Rotary flag I brought. Unfortunately, there are not any photos; but one of the Rotarians will run a story in their newsletter so if I can get a copy I will post that.

I have had to travel a bit as well; spending a weekend at the farm where I will conduct my research and a weekend in Rio (after a visit with the Federal Police to register, which went well, in Juiz de Fora) to attend a climbing club meeting and get the rest of my research gear that I had to leave behind with Brian (thanks again, Brian!). It was nice to come home to the apartment after these trips and feel "at home" in my new room/veranda.

See photos here - A beautiful University and bedroom to call home, lots of bugs on the farm, and many great new friends - http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=375602&id=586190520&l=bab93f4926

I am home and longing a bit to be "homeword bound"

msteven6 — Tue, 23 Mar 2010 06:30:00 GMT

I am trying to be optimistic, but as you can probably tell then homesickness is setting in. I was told this would happen, "the first month you are excited, the next period of time - different for everyone - you are homesick, then once you have mastered the language and are really feeling like you are enjoying your time away from home, it is just about time to leave"... So, I guess I am entering into that second period.

I am home in Viçosa - in one bedroom of a 4 bedroom apartment. I live with other students of the university (who only speak Portuguese) and have a small white room with ceramic tile and a veranda that is connected to a roommate's room. It is a nice place, although not yet cozy. I am borrowing a bed, desk, and chair from one of the roommates and will try to go shopping ASAP to get my own stuff. It will end up being a comfortable place to hang my hat once I am able to get some things to make me feel more at home. My neighbors are currently singing - it sounds like there are about 7-10 of them - and it is very nice, showing the warmth that a Brazilian family has. I live on a small road but it is lively. The apartment across the street is under construction and the road has enough traffic to keep you awake. It can't be worse than Rio, though... If I was able to sleep through that I can handle anything (and I have earplugs if needed...)!

I am within walking distance of the University, although a bike will help a lot because it is a bit far - like walking from 11th street in the Fort to the Ag Campus, I think. There are several stores nearby, although I haven't figured out which ones sell what I need. I think within a week I will have it all worked out, though (just like in Rio) and will be ready to go out and explore! Viçosa is very different from Rio, though. It is nice, small, still Brasilian, but full of more casual Mineiros. Today, I tried to put on my best outfit for "fitting in" and for making a good first impression at the university. However, I was totally overdressed! What a change from Rio - where if I wasn't wearing heels I was stared at (or at least I felt like it - you know my "Keens" are ugly by American standards, but in Rio... You would have thought I had on moon boots...). Most students go to class in jeans (skinny jeans are really in here), tennis shoes, and a cute tank top (girls) or just a good old t-shirt (guys). It is similar to Knoxville in many ways...

I did meet many nice people today at the university. I was introduced around at the Forestry department and have a good feeling that I have found an advisor to assist me. I believe I will be welcomed and will be able to be successful in my studies there. I think I will have an office in the GIS laboratory on the 1st floor. I am also planning to attend the Monday seminars that all graduate students are required to attend (just like at UT). The university is similar to ours as well in that it has many departments to conduct the administration needs of a place like that - I found many of them today just looking for the right one. I will have a student ID card by Friday and will be settled in soon. I do have a year to get comfortable but am hopeful that sooner rather than later it will start feeling like a home (away from home).

Missing you all back there and listening to WDVX to feel a bit closer to home and to remember how much I love it there and how much I am going to love sharing that culture with Mineiros (people of Minas Gerais) and this culture with East Tennesseeans. I am enjoying this experience so far and will continue to build on it.

See photos here of the university and the city - I will post more soon of my home (once I get it looking like a home):

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=375602&id=586190520&l=bab93f4926

Out living and loving it

msteven6 — Mon, 22 Feb 2010 11:49:00 GMT

Hiking, Carnaval, Climbing, and no rest - "oh my":

Let's start with Carnaval... Wow. Men as Women; Women as Angels in Glitter and Feathers; Men as Dracula and other gore inspired things, and then people as nothing in particular but just a crazy-fun thing to wear and be for a week: a fantasia...

Blockos are what most Cariocas are fond of around Carnaval time. They are essentially a "block party" that has a published time to start and a place to begin and end. Some start at 9am, some others not until 9pm. There is usually a band on top of a truck with speakers (like Salvador), and there is often a band of drummers on the ground as well. You meet, dance, and follow the truck - and the rest of the thousand people in the street - until you reach that far off ending...

Carnaval's Samba Parade has mostly become a thing for the wealthy middle class or tourists. The Sambodromo (stadium for the parade) has three big nights featuring 6 different samba schools each night. We went on Monday and had a very lovely time. There is less dancing in the stands than I had imagined, but the show on the ground was very bright and active. They must have 1,000 people per samba school and not all of them samba! Really only a few samba and not for the whole time (1:20 minutes) that they are parading. The floats are really what is spectacular - soooo much work has to go into creating those little disposable masterpieces... Well, words can't describe so here are as many pictures as your little heart can desire:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=375603&id=586190520&l=5c14d2ee0b

(new ones at the end)

I also did a hike in the Parke National da Tijuca - about 45 minutes south of Botafogo and the heart of Rio. This hike was brutal... 850 meters straight up hill on a well established trail that had lots of boulders to climb over and up... rewarding and punishing at the same time. Again, I lack the words to describe the beauty at the top (I am in need of Dave Brill's expertise here...). So, see these photos:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=375603&id=586190520&l=5c14d2ee0b

Climbing has picked up for me as well. I have been to Urca to climb the sugarloaf again and have also climbed the route Passagem dos Olhos in the Parke National da Tijuca. This route was wonderful because it is a 5 pitch traverse on the "face" (literally) of the rock - starting on the left cheek, going up just left of the left eye, and traversing below the left eye, across the nose, and into the right eye (where we had lunch), before departing out the right cheek. Wow! Photos can be found again at above link!

Well, hope that answered some questions. There will be another blog soon about my trip(s) to Vicosa and how much I am going to like it there!

Best,

~Maggie

Another week: more exploration, more comfort

msteven6 — Thu, 11 Feb 2010 05:12:00 GMT

I'm settling into things now, feeling more comfortable in my skin (tan and blending in now), speaking portuguese (progressing although less rapidly than I had hoped), and with the city (the basics have been mastered so onto the fun stuff...)

When I first arrive in a city like this (6 million people with a metro, soooo many bus routes, and a plethra of stores that you must get the essentials from), it takes about a week to get my bearings. I did some things wrong - the wrong bus caused a longer walk, I didn't get my fruit weighed and marked with a sticker by the guy in the produce section before taking it to the register, I did allow the hairdresser to "style" my hair for an exorbant amount (drying it costs extra)... but you live, learn, and head out the door to do it better the next time.

More pictures of what those strrets look like can be found here file:///Users/Maggie/Pictures/iPhoto%20Library/Modified/2010/The%20streets%20and%20things%20I%20see.../IMG_0551.JPG

So now that I have an idea of how to do the essentials (re-charge minutes to my cell phone - $R17 for 90 minutes; shop for the best produce at the Horti-Fruiti; get a pastry with vegetables and not just meat for breakfast - "Um pastel de frango, quejo, e verduras"; re-charge my metro card for a week of transport to and from school so that I don't have to do it at quarter till 8am - when everyone in the city is trying to do the same thing and the lines are 30 deep...) I can start having fun!

I went on a different route from my school (escola) today and found an outdoor shop. This lead to the realization that not only electronics are expensive in Brasil - the climbing helmet I just bought before coming to Brasil ($65 USD) costs $R428! So, I am very glad I brought everything I needed for climbing and may end up having anything else shipped home and then re-shipped here! So, if you come to Brazil be prepared to buy leather and meat cheap and electronics and equipment at exorbant prices... Now this could just be Rio - it is a similar size to NYC with an inflated cost of living when compared with other places in the country - but the problem that I expect to run into is that other places do not carry the items at all - for any price.

The people are wonderful, however, and give the huge city a welcoming feel. Tonight I attended a meeting for climbers - one of the 7 clubs in Rio - and met many wonderful people; tomorrow I attend a Rotary meeting which the president of the Rotary Foundation will be in attendance at as well - and will meet more wonderful people.

Ate mas! (Until more!)

Still here but had an unexpected (and wonderful) adventure I would like to share

msteven6 — Sat, 6 Feb 2010 11:45:00 GMT

Thursday I traveled to the Christ Statue (Corcovado) and climbed my way to the top of the mountain that it stands on - it was perfect!

My climbing partner spoke very little english (just a few climbing terms) so it was wonderful practice for conversational portuguese as well! Please see photos (http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=375603&id=586190520&l=5c14d2ee0b) of a few events and trips I have gone to in the afternoons and last weekend.

Hope you all are well - Next week I will write and share more photos of the blockos (neighborhood gathering for the celebration of Carnaval) that begin today.

So... What do you see when you walk out on the street from your apartment?/Roommate?/Yummy breakfast?

msteven6 — Thu, 4 Feb 2010 09:59:00 GMT

Well,... I live on a side street off of a pretty main street in Botafogo - an area that is primarily Cariocas (people of Rio). The apartment is about 1200 square feet and is pretty nice for apartments in Brasil (correct spelling for when I am down here). I live with 6 other girls (5 of them Dutch) and share a room with just one other - Soesma. She works for the landlord - a Dutch lady who owns several properties in Rio. She has been here a while so is settled with her room/life in Rio with friends outside of the apartment so she isn't home every night.

When I walk outside, through a locked door to the building, and exit my "complex" via a locked gate, I end up on a uneven sidewalk next to a one way - two lane - road. I usually go left to Rua da Passagem - a bustling road with many shops; there are car-care places (one for each specialization - batteries only, a 2 bay shop for oil changes only, rims for your car a few doors down, and tires a few shops away from that), banks, juice (succo da fruta) stands that sell yummy breakfast (large breakfasts of often fruit "juice" (mainly fruit and therefore very thick and good) and a pastry of chicken and cheese, drug stores (that sell toiletries and "over the counter" drugs as well as beer and contacts, hair salons (where manicures/pedicures are $R10), and a "get everything under the sun for cheap here" store (like Walmart but much smaller). I am between two malls - Rio do Sul and Botafogo Praia Shopping; which has been good for adquiring those much needed items; a purse, havaianas (flip flops that all cariocas own) a cell phone with "pre-pay" minutes, and a swimsuit. I am also on the main bus route to Urca (Sugarloaf - Pao do Acucar) and a short walk to the Bus stop for Copacabana, Ipanema, Leblon, etc.

The busses are "fun"... You flag it down and run to get on (otherwise the driver starts taking off if he thinks you aren't really hurrying) and he immediately departs - so you had better grab a rail to hold on! You pay the ticket lady/man ($R2.20) and pass through the turn-style gate. If a seat is available you are grateful; if not you stand and hold on while the bus accelerates, brakes quickly to pick up more passengers that have flagged it down, and accelerates again while making a 90 degree turn...

I take the metro to school in the Centro every day now and sometimes have lunch at one of the "per kilo" buffets (a buffet where your plate is weighed at the end - these are often elaborate as lunch is the main meal in Brasil and dinner is often a snack of bread, cheese, and meat). I can get on nearby (5 blocks or so away) and 15 minutes later (7 stops) I get off at Uriguiana. This stop is right near the famous Centro Market - a collection of semi-permanent shops that sell EVERYTHING. I went there today and bought some Carnaval costume items for pretty cheap. It is always busy so you (and Cariocas alike) hold onto your purse at all times - it isn't often that you are flat out "held up" but more common to have a purse snatched by a barefoot child or guy that slept on the street last night. Therefore, when walking around ANYWHERE in Rio you keep real valuables on your body and "disposable" things in your closely guarded purse. I also have a "throw away wallet" - which has small bills for buying things and if I ever am demanded to give it up, it at least doesn't contain all my money - or my bus ticket home. I never take a credit/debit card to a place like this (and often don't take it anywhere with me anyway). Also, my teacher yesterday found out that his credit card was "cloned" (easily done by swiping it through a 2nd machine when completing a transaction). Therefore, I only use it at malls and watch the clerk as it is being charged.

The city is great though, just HUGE and bustling with life. Cariocas dress well - with the women wearing heels everywhere - (when they can afford to at all), but can be very casual - it is ok for many to take the bus to the beach without shoes/shirt and they still get service. They speak quickly but are patient with foreigners who at least try to speak the language - a simple "tudo bom" goes a long way!

I have begun language training and have begun to learn how much I have to learn in order to be "fluent" (an unattainable goal it seems at this point) but am able to be understood and hold a conversation with someone that is patient. I am learning so much, not only from class but from conversations on the beach/street. I have met several people whom I can see myself connecting with; Brian from Rotary is already a confidant (as we have many of the same interests and share the Rotary experience), and some Carioca climbers - who meet at the statue at the base of the sugarloaf every morning/evening when they climb. Several of the ones that I have met speak english and are excited to talk about the climbing in Rio and share their city!

Well,... Hope that answers some questions; off to have more experiences and I will write about them all again next week...

Here, safe, warm...

msteven6 — Thu, 28 Jan 2010 20:43:00 GMT

I've had better flights but I can't remember a better nap than the one I had this afternoon... Taxi driver was well worth it; spoke little english but allowed me to practice my hand signals/portuguese conversation skills. The busy streets gave me some exercise as well - you had better look lively, and act fast if you want to get across in one piece - as I went for familiar groceries: Minas Gerais' cheese (queijo de minas), mango juice (succo da manga), salami, cucumber, red peppers as big as your head, coffee... : ) and milk (leche) - which is not found in the cooler section with the yogurt but instead on a shelf next to the bread...

Botafogo (see map)- always under the corcovada, near everything it appears, but still a metro or onibus ride away... The apartment is airy, (which is good as there isn't AC), with hard-wood tiled flooring, tall ceilings, and plaster walls. The windows look out on other people's window's so Brasilian socializing is maximized. My two neighbors - on the two windows that perfectly match up with our living room windows - consist of 1) an elderly woman practicing the piano while her gray haired companion shuffles around the living room; and 2) two tan 20 something men (homens) with sun glasses in hand, hanging over the window sill to converse with the people down below.

Copacabana beach (praia de Copacabana) with Dutch roommates tomorrow; all-in-all a good start with more to come this weekend.

Pre-departure (documents, planning, and packing)

msteven6 — Sun, 27 Dec 2009 05:20:00 GMT

I am preparing for a great new adventure to Brazil. My departure date is January 27th and I have so much to do! Please keep an eye on this log, however, as once I get down to Brazil I will have plenty to write about:

Language training in Rio de Janeiro

Studying at the Universidade de Vicosa

Researching in the rural areas of Rosario da Limeira

Gallery: Carnaval and the beach

msteven6 — Sat, 24 Feb 2007 10:39:00 GMT