Grace, Style and Laughter – The Surprising Lao

Lao, the sparkling jewel of the Mekong region, is an ancient and culturally diverse land. The gloomy and drab airport terminal at Luang Prabang belies this fact and stands in stark contrast to the scene that is unveiled once the exit doors swing open. What they reveal is a land of beauty and a culture of grace and laughter.

Luang Prabang, the old capital, lies in faded elegance on the banks of the famous Mekong River. French colonial influence teamed with Lao style is evident in many aspects of the citizens lives. Architecturally this blend has produced buildings of striking beauty. Restored or not, large or small, each is a work of art. The crumbling stonework and heavy use of large slabs of timber, along with cobbled stone roadways, would not be out of place in a French village.

In comparison to other Asian centres, where the teaming mass of humanity can become over whelming, the streets of Luang Prabang appear almost empty. The absence of heavy traffic in the town makes exploration of the quiet, leafy lanes a relaxing, pleasant experience. Allowing you to immerse your self in the scenes of daily life without distraction. Racks of drying rice cakes line the streets as they bake in the warm afternoon sun. School children heading home descend with uproarious chattering on food vendors strategically placed at the school gates.

While Lao cuisine is very definitely Asian in style, though less spicy than Thai food, the French influence once again is evident. French pastries and breads are a staple part of the Lao diet and exquisite patisserie's are found in every town, Luang Prabang is no exception.

It is safe to say that the Lao people love their Karaoke. After spending five hours on the notoriously slow bus to Vang Vieng and being subjected to every Lao music video ever produced, my indoctrination was complete. Drawn by an almost primeval force too powerful to resist, I made a pitiful attempt to belt out a few songs using the lao words as they rolled silently across the screen. Sadly, I became aware too late that I had missed out on the Karaoke gene.

Vang Vieng, a small town in central Lao, is a dusty jumbled meeting place for backpackers descending on it from all over Asia. Leaving the bus and the humiliation behind me I was greeted by a loud ruckus reverberating through the air. In an old open aired stadium, hundreds of Laos women were congregated. All sitting around plastic tables, drinking “Beer Lao” and singing Karaoke. They definitely hadn't missed out on the gene. The laughter echoing around the town left no doubt that they were having a fabulous time and made me realise that the west doesn't have a monopoly in enjoying yourself.

In every day life the Laos people are quiet, dignified and hard working, but when they let their hair down they know how to party.