where is laura?

Parallel Universe

ldeutch — Wed, 29 Aug 2007 11:49:00 GMT

Sitting in my rocking chair, logging the video tapes from the summer. I was living in a parallel universe. My return was less about culture shock and more about city shock. The sheer density of activity in one's day is amazing. I miss greeting each person by meeting their glance, "Buenos Dias" Walking around picking fruit off the ground, and from the trees/ the effort of cracking open a walnut. I bought a package of tortillas from the store, blue corn, color #56. Having the time to sit and talk.. when being late is acceptable because there is an understanding of the unpredictability of life and circumstance-- and people come before schedules and deadlines. However, it's good to be around people my age again... It's hard to go back to describe the summer. In the end, it all balanced out. We had a serious week of "last-time" events ... confirmation parties, carne de cabello, dona julia, dances, mermalada, pinata, crying, goodbyes, cards, photos, emails exchanged. The details are already withering-- I know they have embedded themselves in my experience, but I'm unable to recall them. Pictures are posted... assemble the story creatively. I have provided sparse captions. Movies, clips, moments coming soon on my website, and hopefully a more detailed projet will emerge.. and possibly lead to another visit. I'll likely be back. How can you leave a place that allows you into their community after only 2 months, and not return? --- side note. Just watched the film, Letters from the Other Side (http://www.sidestreetfilms.com/), an indep documentary that visits with families, separated by the border -- Look for it. It's a really interesting, honest piece. Although I had hoped to pursue a very similiar video letter project.... I realize there is still a lot of work to be done...

Gallery: Mexico, Proyecto Verano

ldeutch — Thu, 23 Aug 2007 22:20:00 GMT

the project, the life, Tatauzoquico

Gallery: Mexico, out in the world

ldeutch — Thu, 23 Aug 2007 22:05:00 GMT

brief pass through Mex city, Queretaro, Puebla, San Miguel

medio camino

ldeutch — Mon, 23 Jul 2007 05:09:00 GMT

Tomorrow we regroup for the midway evaluation, etc.... I don´t want to leave.. been here just over 2 weeks and already I feel (and about half of the participants)feel very integrated into the community. We have finished construting 12 family gardens, with crops such as spinach, lettuce, radish, carrots, cilantro, brocoli and cauliflor ... We did the first one in the area outside the church where we are staying .. the ground was very hard, dry and full of rocks.. It made the first day quite a test for all of us... it was only when we started clearing away the trsash and poking around before we started that we realized it used to be a cemetary ... now the land will have a second life ...hopefully we didnt wake any of the sprits with our digging...

After the first day we split into 2 teams and did a garden a day at different houses.. we approached families who have children who are malnourished, out of a list of 12, 3 were interested.. the rest of the work came from requests of people who are interested in learning about new crops, or have kids who are willing to tend to the garden... many of whom worked with us daily. For most of the house, the land was very fertile and a pleasure to work with... in areas where corn is already growing.... Earlier in the week we did rounds to visit all of the families, and the radished are already starting to poke through the soil. Most of the houses we built 4 or 5 beds... beds that will produce veggies that are not available to buy in the community, and sorely missing from the diet of beans and corn... new flavors, textures and tastes .... greens yummmm.

The first day of having to walk 45 minutes to procure 4 buckets of animal manure-compost, I kept my distance, safely using the shovel... by the next day, hands are digging through the shit, recognizing it for the value that is has.. that it will give to the soil... no need for chemicals or fertilizer...

In the afternoons, we ahave been offering workshops from 4 to 7... in my english class alone for ages 10 to 14 there are 25 kids or more who show up regularly, 3 times a week.. very interested, eager and adorable.

We have also been doing a workshop with stories from tataozoquico, theater and drawings of legends passed down and invented on the spot.... mermalada, we made mermalada, too ...

This past Friday, I worked with a group of 4 teenage girls, to do interviews with various people in town with questions that interested them...revealing the character and weave of the town. next week I´ll bust out the super 8 camera... already have an hour of video... these girls are very punk rock, it´s great. they invited us to a quincinera the next day....

We went to a wedding last night... very fun. live music, a full ¨stage¨amidst the tall corn plants..empty soda and tecquila bottles rolling around. chicken with mole sauce, buckets of tortillas... too bad I spent the whole night dancing with kids under 13 years old and men over 40. Just my luck... there is an obvious gap of people between the ages of 20 and 35. Off to work in other cities, states, etc.

time to detach myself from internet world ... and return to talk with the kiddies about responsibility... and community, concepts that are starting to crack amongst us...

Tata....

ldeutch — Mon, 9 Jul 2007 03:09:00 GMT

Today is our first -free day- we have a group of 7 quiet, curious students from ages 17-20...

Lucrecia- from a small Totonaco community 3 hours away. She is 17, this is the fist time she has traveled outside of her community. Already a pro at making tortillas, she will be invaluable.... and will be able to offer workshops in Totonaco (1 of 2 indigeous languages of the region).

Anaelisa- 19 year old from Puerto Rico, full of energy, enthusiam and charm, she will be our cheerleader, desperately needed... still adjusting to her accent ...

<Alex- quiet but eager, from Arizona, will be the brunt of many jokes, in a good way... already overdosed on plums, which are plentiful in the community, and threw up on the bus, the very full bus.. it was very funny actually... and he has a backpacker guitar with him...

Martin de Peru.. about to start college at Reed.. very quiet, serious, can't quiet figure him out yet...

sophie- from WA. also very quiet...

Mady- about to start school in FL, interested in studying medicine... eager... content...

Jessica- from CA, but her parents are from Jalisco, Mexico.

Its funny to remember where I was at after graduating high school.. which seems to be the average age, 19? Wow so young... an age where you think you know it all... and many of these kids have travelled a lot already and had very interesting experiences.. but havent had shared living experiences, and this will likely be our biggest challenge.

The community is very interesting and different from the others which are more heavily indigeous. Our community is a interesting mix of lifestyles: campesinos who still live off their land.. they grow corn, beans, tons of fruit, avacados... get milk from their cows,and raise pigs, chickens, etc. very poor, but very content. The crops they produce, most of them they consume themselves, they dont have value in the market or to buyers... except the animals...

Some people, like the famous dona julia, have taken advantage of the fruit, and started fermenting it and bottling vinos of many flavors-- potent and delicious... ferment for 3 years and sell in the community as well as a few neighboring communities.

Other people have very nicely constructed houses, and have likely traveled to the US and returned, or went to work inthe city for a few years and came back to be with their family. TV, hot water, gas stove, white bread...

Our first project will be to construct 10 ecological stoves. This is for people who still cook with wood, of which there are many... Basically this will entail enclosing the area where the wood is and adding a chimney so the smoke does not fill up the house when they are cooking. We will do the first one in the church where we will be staying...

In the afternoon we will be offering variuos workshops, yet to be defined once we get a better sense of what interests the community has, and what we can offer...

thats to start...

One hour walk (or 15 mins) in bus will take us to Tlaltlouki, a much larger pueblo where we will likely do our bigger food shopping, etc.

Many more conversations to be had... and hopefully documented!

Tomorrow we get started...

tatauzoquico

ldeutch — Wed, 4 Jul 2007 07:03:00 GMT

my new home for the next 6 weeks.. the group of participants arrived and we have been having orientation in a more central pueblo... tomorrow the groups will be defined and thurs we go again to the communities to spend a night with a family, each person (we will be 11, likely). I already spent 3 days there with my partner, jacqueline.. chatting with families, attending mass (and speaking in front of everyone, all 400 people), playing with kids,picking fruit, peaches, apples, avacadoes (and eating the peel), grapefruit-apples, cherry like berries.. etc. Very homemade sausage was the first official meal.... much to say.. Im anxious to get into our small groups and get started.....

hasta pronto...

hasta agosto

ldeutch — Wed, 27 Jun 2007 15:02:00 GMT

Well, where do I start. I'm already completely exhausted, overwhelmed, nervous, excited, etc etc and it's only "orientation." We've had 8 hour days of workshops ... conflict resolution, expectations, hopes, small group dynamics, political/social/economic context of mexico/latin america --an overview of the 5 communities where we will be placed.

The facilitators will work in pairs (one from US, one from Mexico) and then we will coordinate a group of 10 participants to do various work projects, like construct more eco-friendly stoves and water supply systems... among other things we initiate and organize. The community could be anywhere from 20 families to 500 people, but small... our journey into town will be about an hour, once a week to stock up on food and necessities for our group.

Spanish is the second language... decisions are made in asambleas, with a rotating "judge" that communicates decisions to the municipal leaders... our own groups will have to decide how we organize ourselves, make decisions, etc.

It's really intense doing all of this in a language I'm only beginning to feel comfortable with... it's one thing to communicate... it's another to express yourself in a manner that reflects your intent, or desire. Alas there are nonverbal ways of communicating.. but this also has its limits.

I find myself saying things I don't always mean, because I know how to say them... and wanting to say other things which I don't because I risk complicating the idea even more...

No doubt this is going to be one of the most challenging things I've done in my life... and if I make it to the other side... feeling more confident than I do now, I will have the strength to face the next question, What now?

How do I integrate all of this work into where I left off...? Is that possible, or does a more substantial change in direction really need to take place? No doubt this is already something I've been struggling with over the last few years- without regrets for any of my decisions, or else I wouldn't be where I am... nonetheless, My hope is that my experience this summer will solidify, not the answers, but rather the questions that will guide me as I continue to define my place in this world.

Day of rest

ldeutch — Mon, 25 Jun 2007 04:05:00 GMT

Despite my big plans to go the anthro musuem, and do some interviews with my video camera ... I'm giving myself a day of rest. 12 hours of sleep 3 nights in a row, and for once I feel rested. After a wonderful breakfast of chilequiles, scrambled eggs, papaya and cafe con leche, I decided to join the Quaker meeting that happens here every Sunday. Although I had heard no one speaks (I had never actually been to a Quaker mtg), I was worried I would have to say something I was thankful for, introduce myself, etc.. but no, it was just an hour of silent mediation, and indeed no one spoke. About 15 people attended, mostly for the US, 2 mexicans and 1 girl from Canada. It was very relaxing and just what I needed. All that was required of me was silence, and at the end, to say my name and where I am from.

I washed some clothes.. hope they dry before the afternoon rainstorm lets loose. The storms here have been regular, and bien fuerte. In San Miguel in particular, the lighting storm was like nothing I had ever seen, for almost an hour... shooting across the sky and roaring thunder to compliment it all.

1:30 joining a bunch of other northamericans from the casa to watch the Us/Mexico soccer game. My first big social event, and a soccer game at a bar at that... I'm very excited. I'm sure any of the people I would have interviewed today would appreciate that I choose the soccer game instead...

Later on there is a potluck here, which will also be a nice gathering, and 8:30 tonight I have my first official mtg with other folks from the summer project, a small welcome, before we start tomorrow bright and early...

detour

ldeutch — Sun, 24 Jun 2007 10:45:00 GMT

I just returned from a very pleasant sidetrip to the northern tranquil, colonial towns of Queretaro and the much spoken about San Miguel de Allende.

I had a lovely stay in Queretaro where I met up with a friend, and soon to be classmate at Temple, Hector and his wife, Mari. It was great for me to meet up with friends and get a more personal sense of the city, and stay comfortably at their house ... and for him, to get a sense of the program, Philadelphia, and probably put him a bit more at ease about what to expect. I didn't scare him off too much...

Despite my 12 hour sleep last night, I'm exhausted... so more on all of this to come.

Heating up-Day3

ldeutch — Thu, 21 Jun 2007 10:26:00 GMT

I just met with Mauro, the coordinator with SEDEPAC, the Mexican counterpart to American Friends Service Comm. and if I thought that was intense.. this summer is going to really crazy... fun but challenging as ever. He's a good spirit, jean jacket, crazy dance pants, wire glasses, hippie hair wraps, in his 40s. Although I followed everything he told me and was only able to respond here and there... communication is not all about language, so at least I have that on my side. He told me there is a team of people from swathmore, 25 of them, and 25 others from various parts- including a dozen folks from mexico... I got the whole break down, and I'm very excited for this challenge. The training begins monday from 10-2 break for lunch, and then from 4-8.. then we're free.. hopefully I'll rest up and see the nightlife, which I haven't explored yet.

Earlier today, I went to see more Frida Kahlo... a great show, completely packed, in a gorgeous deco-style building/musuem/arts center.

I was on my way to another museum when I was thankfully interruped by the sounds of protest... I wandered over and listened to a few speakers who were in front of a banner, to the effect of: the struggle won't stop in Oaxaca. Several people took the mic and spoke about the riches of natural resources, being ciphoned off by the govt...privatized ... the rights of teachers was the main focus, since there has been a major assault (killings, disappearances) on the teachers who have been striking in Oaxaca, negotiations and protests are still underway -- the most recent manifestation of the conflict between the people and the govt. I had my video camera with me, and hope to transcribe the whole thing. There were about 200 people present... this is likely a regular occurence...

And as I'm feeling overwhelmed by all of this, not knowing enough, always wanting to know more, I pass by an encampment, a few blocks from the casa-- Right in front of the monument of the Republic, and also in front of the ISSSTE building (social security for the state workers). They came from all parts of the country, setting up tents with their assembly number marked on the outside. Michoacan #18....

A tent city stands with photos from the otra campana, a medical tent, zapata banners, che banners... I ask someone how long this has been going on and he told me since May 10. When I asked how long are they going to stay, he told me, indefinitely.

They are about to pass a new law (which I have yet to understand what it entails, fully), but it clearly is pissing off a lot of people, to say the least. This group (affected by the law) includes the public university teachers, and could culminate in a full strike in late August. This is only the tip of the iceberg, and I hope to return to talk with more people...

Here is a picture I found of the petitions that were sent in protest:

http://www.cronica.com.mx/nota.php?id_nota=301652

From what I can gather so far, it is a dirty situation with the banks that involves, probably like in the US, a potential loss of retirement and social security money for the state workers, while the friends of Felipe Calderon (or Fecal as he has been nicknamed) make out like bandits... I know this is a crude and possibly amiss synop, but it clearly is larger than Mexican politics and no doubt has ramifications for US financial institutions... which leave the people with the short end of the stick... to be continued.

Day 2

ldeutch — Wed, 20 Jun 2007 12:33:00 GMT

Let me start by saying, I'm very excited to have my own room tonight. I have been staying in a women's dorm with 8 beds, all of which were full the last 2 nights, but now are empty... hurrah.

Today I took a trip to the southern neighborhood of Coyoacan, meaning land of the coyotes. It's the "bohemian" youthful part of town, it actually felt like another country or city- I stopped at this hustling coffee shop on the corner, and was excited to partake in what seemed to be the destination of the hour, but my cappucino was a sad splash of espresso poured from an existing pitcher into a whole lot of milk, oh well.

Ok, the last entry exhausted me, so here is the short of it:

walked through a beautiful park, Viveros, on the way to the Coyoacan, like a mini central park, but flat, full of joggers and black squirrels.

was stopped by 2 young women who passed along a newsletter and info on a gathering for women's rights to take place this saturday, in the plaza where they approached me.

interviewed by some TV show, where a young "host" asked me questions like, if "Angelina Jolie has a penis would I want to be with her?" That was the best one.. of course my answers were only funny because I was trying so hard to repeat the question and the answer in proper spanish- not with much luck...

Frida kahlo/Diego rivera's house- very charming, of course.

Leon trotsky's house, a fortress, where he lived in exile until he was assasinated... didn't know he had a very particular cactus garden and lots of hens which he tended to with much care.. part of the "trade" he developed to compliment the intellectual work...

stopped by the Zocolo on my way home. Madness. I'll be back tomorrow and there will be more details.

With much hunger and no obvious restaurant in sight, I stopped at a packed street stand where I had a delicious, on the stop made, huge corn tortilla filled with chicken, onions, tomatoes and cheese. It was amazing, and to this moment did not make me sick.

Ventured back out this evening to a lecture on migration, given by the author of a new book on the topic, presented at the spanish cultural center. Also there, was an exhibit on alternative culture in mexico, primarily through print-- a very small show, but good nonetheless.

After the talk I followed everyone upstairs for wine that was promised- instead, juice, pina. I drank the pina juice.., oh my paronia set in soon after... I hope it was straightup- don't drink the water... I think I'll be fine.

ps. I love riding the metro. The most recent sales included: a book of 2007 driving rules and regulations (someone next to me actually bought it) -- new age hits CD, women opera singers CD and nail clippers.

wow

ldeutch — Tue, 19 Jun 2007 13:05:00 GMT

Well I arrived in Mexico city and already so much has happened it seems... I'm staying at the "Casa de los amigos" it is not just any house, but the "Friends House" as in the Quakers.. quite a nice place with many interesting people doing various social-issue projects in the area. We all chat over breakfast and exchange our story.

The metro is very clean, lots of sweeping, scraping and wiping keep the stone floors very slick and neat, it's much more pleasant than Septa!

My first full day, Monday, like in the US, most of the museums are closed, so I decided to go to Puebla, a very charming colonial city about 2 hours to the South--

here are my notes from the day:

Woken up by a gaggle of eager teachers from Minnesota who are here as part of a Witness for Peace program. A lot of there students are from a small town in Morelos, and so they are here to learn more about the region, conditions, how US policy affects immigration, etc... 6am they woke me up.. but it got me out of bed by 8am, and after breakfast I took the bus to Puebla. I wanted something quiet, and to get away from all the english spoken in the hostal, which I hadn't expected..

The metro was built in 69, and the architecture doesn't let you forget it. The last stop before the train station had these amazing tunnels and circular radiating roof design (pictures to come). I still can't shake the realization that I am in Mexico city, and not NY for example... after living around so many latinos in the States, it's an odd feeling to visit the home turf. It def feels different than S. American, because you sense the US influence, sort of.. but still filtered through a very different translation.

Like in South America, the circuit of selling various goods on the public transit continues. This time music is the most popular on the metro. There was the bling man, karoke style with the boom box followed by a young girl with a can, asking for change. Then, a young guy with the built in boom box sampling the songs from the CD's he is selling for $1. Then the live musicians, asking for change.. and on and on.. but everyone has their own approach.

I spotted my first walmart within city limits from the bus. There are also popular chains called "waldo's mart"- they are $1. stores. The fast food chains with drive ins- are auto-mac and auto-king.

The metro uses a pictorial system for their stops... and toilet paper still goes in the trash bin.

Puebla- the town that drew me to Mexico really, after realizing that so many of the mexicans living in south phila were from the region, I couldn't help to be curious to see... Puebla is the city, located within the state of Puebla.

Upon entering the town I see the huge volkswagon plant that I just read about in a wallstreet journal article my mom so kindly clipped for me. They opened in 1998, and employ a lot of educated engineers and the like... a glitzy shopping center stands within 100 ft of the plant, as do crumbling homes just across the street...

So I get off the bus, hop a combi into town and make my way to the "centro historico" - very charming, quiet, grassy passageways where hippies sell hemp necklaces, lots of students around. Ceramics for sell- the speciality of the region, and of course the mole poblano, that delicious chocolate-spicy-smoky sauce they pour over chicken, has its origins here...

Through the center, the streets are closed off to traffic and are full with people, wedding dress stores, shoe stores, jewerly, clothes, and smell like pound cake (that butter smell reminiscent of isgro bakery).

I sit down in front of a church, and within minutes, I'm approached by an older man and his guitar. He thinks I'm from Spain, but I sadly correct him. I try to say I'm not interested, but he knows I am, and sits down next to me and starts playing various tunes. His fingers nails are crooked, and he uses a nice tortoise pick. He lives in Veracruz. Of course, I'm thinking, ok, he probably wants money.. but after 15 mins of chatting and playing he says good bye and that is that. LIke the friendly metro escort I got yesterday from the airport, my expectations of people are being challenged... and reinvigorated. Not everyone is after your money, people still exist in the world to do good things, and help others... this is always a lesson of travelling.

So, I make my way to the Zocolo, the main huge shady square and sit down and read the paper I just bought... a new reality show in Puebla, protests, migration reports.. next thing I know a group of high school age girls, giggling, approach me nervously. "Excuse me, Do you speak english?" next thing I know, I'm part of some class assignment, on camera, being interviewed by one of them, who formally reads from here notes, "what do you like about Puebla" "What food do you like here" "Would you come back?" ... it was very sweet, and I'm glad they found me.. budding journalists...

No more than 15 mins later, 2 men approach me with a similiar aim. A teacher and his student ask if they could speak with me for a few minutes to practice. They also think I'm from spain, by the way... but the lonely planet I was reading gave it away... next thing I know, the teacher, Emilio pulls out the world atlas from his bag and has flipped to the PA map.. I point to philadelphia and we talk for about 30 mins, alternating between english and spanish. It turns out Emilio teaches both, he learned english from the streets from Puebla, interacting with foreigners, and has spent time in the States as well....

I go with them to the Museo Amparo, its free, and wonderfull. The student, Miguel, is very shy, walks slowly with a limp, and tells me how many operations and surgeries he has had, he spent 50 days in a coma... he's 25 yrs old, has a great family that helps him out, and a teacher who is a great friend.

The main exhibit at the museum are these murals by Miguel Covarrubias, different pictorial representations of the Peoples of the world, their art, economics, modes of transport... very very interesting... Miguel has to leave and Emilio stays and we go through the museum together, he has me read some of the info panels aloud so he can correct my spanish- we converse about all sorts of things-- don't be shy- talk, you must keep talking, so I can correct you, that's how you learn... it was great. I was like, is he for real? This is his work, and he loves it.. at 42, he's the black sheep of the family for doing his own thing- meeting people from all over the world...

From there we go for lunch, and I finally get my mole poblano.. it was delicious. A nice long 3 course meal, complete with rice pudding for dessert. He treats, again a very nice unexpected gesture. Conversation goes from politics and values to listening to John Denver and the soundtrack from amoros perros on his walkman...

I eventually get back on the bus to the DF, the farmland and rolling hills are on my left, and a volcano, erupting? is also in full view....

Ahhh, the journey has begun.

I didn't bring the connector for my camera, so the photos will come later...

Mexico.. yo vengo!

ldeutch — Sat, 19 May 2007 23:05:00 GMT

I'm leaving in mid June to participate in the American Friends Service Committee, Mexico Summer program in Sierra Norte de Puebla for 2 months.

I'll be a co-facilitator in the program, woo hoo:

http://www.afsc.org/latinamerica/int/mexicosummer.htm

I'll be in Mexico city first for a few days, and that will likely be my first and last reliable email hotspot.. but stories and pictures will follow.

Philadelphia

ldeutch — Tue, 13 Mar 2007 05:54:00 GMT

Coming soon.... experiences from the city that brought you Rocky.

Gallery: Philadelphia

ldeutch — Mon, 15 Jan 2007 09:56:00 GMT

adventures from home

Gallery: Montana

ldeutch — Mon, 17 Jul 2006 08:32:00 GMT

wild west

new thoughts on "old," "wild," and "indians"

ldeutch — Fri, 14 Jul 2006 00:22:00 GMT

A recent trip out to Montana unepxectantly turned out to be an interesting couterpoint to my South American travels. Through our explorations of Glacier national park, the surrounding Indian reservations and tribes, and the general life of the cowboy who still has a strong presence in this part of the country-- I couldnt help but make some parallels... but I"ll weave that in as wel go along. My mom and I set off on July 2 and flew into Bozeman, MT. I had driven through Bozeman on my ride back out to PA from CA, and had a general sense of main street in my mind, and a good hamburger joint to revisit. We picked up a Subaru Outback from the airport and started our journey. Our first B&B in Bozeman was the Lehrkind Mansion, an old Victorian house, rescued by Chris and Jon who quickly filled it with time period pieces, brought the gardens back to life, and serve a mean breakfast with fabulous coffee. Each morning we gathered around the table to chat with our inn mates, about the area, travels, and as we got more comfortable, politics. The Inconvenient Truth was playing at the local old deco Theater, and we saw it right away... an appropriate primer for our travels up to Glacier National Park (which for good reason, is talked about in the film). We covered town in a few hours, and spent the next day taking a nice walk in the nearby Gallatin national forest, and taking a drive up to the Big Sky ski resort, which was slightly sad and disappointing. July 4, we decided to drive to the next town of Livingston for the rodeo. This was a sold out event, we were lucky to get in... the opening hour was filled with the ladies equestrian team, and the naming of this year's Miss junior Montana rodeo gal, the exchanging of saddles and all. There was the typical dumb clown used for filler, and even a few clinton jokes. I enjoyed checking out everyone's get up, some more fashionably western, others more authentic. The 4th of July is like christmas time for Cowboys because they award hundreds of thousands of dollars out to the winners across the country, who knew? All the time I couldn't help of think of Brokeboke Mountain, and wonder if it ever made it into the Theaters in Montana, if so, I can only wonder about the tormet lashed on those who went to see it... and those who may be silently suffering... From Bozeman we drove a few hours to Missoula. An interesting town, which felt more like a lived in downtown with a def young student population.. a bit of a Boulder, CO from 15 years ago. We had some great greasy family Mexican food, and checked into our next Inn, a room with all the charm and amentities you could want (read: TV = happy mom). We checked out all the cute stores, roamed around in and out of the drizzle (which thankfully quenched a rapidly spreading wild fire on the hill closeby). Overall, a nice town, good feeling, down to earth wholesome people. Our drive from MIssoula to Whitefish took us past Flathead lake, the largest freshwater lake east of the mississippi, an absolute aqua gem. We stopped in Polson for coffee and donuts, and made good time to Whitefish by evening. Whitefish, a charming one street old town, revamped to mountain luxury. There is a nice new pedestrian path to the lake, 1 mile away, where the city maintains a nice park and beach area. The town has a lots of new money coming into it, evident by the new library and school.. mostly from investors buying up property, and changing this once quite secret into a highly desireable getaway. My mom loves this town. When we were there, it was open gallery night from 6-9, just as the rain cleared... food and wine to go around... It was very lovely. I bought a funky hat made of old ties, and enjoyed the looks I got as I modeled it the rest of the evening. This was by far our favorite B&B, the Garden Wall Inn, great local history and info, wonderful hospitality, breakfast... hard to leave! From here we leave behind the comforts of cute little towns, and go in for the real adventure of the park. Within 20 minutes we are entering the west gateway.... to be continued

North of the equator

ldeutch — Tue, 6 Jun 2006 06:09:00 GMT

I'm back. Still marvelling at the ease of conducting business in english, and sad by the already obvious decline in my spanish.... but so it goes. and sadly the last spanish I heard was the airplane captain onthe way to Miami fumbling through his normal salutations and reports.. you'd think with the necessity of this job, someone would have offered him some advice on pronunciation by now...

beefed up security at the airport... a new machine that blows air onto you from all directions to sense traces of explosive material.. and what happens if you're carrying it, do you blow up? My stomach tightens as I see the incoming "visitors" questioned closely by immigration.. even if all their ducks are in order, there is always a fear of being rejected at the border... and we, as US citizens just have our badge to flash, and doors open all over the world. It makes me really sad and depressed to think about it.. and most Americans are still afraid to leave the country, and dont even take advantage of these privileges...

First thing I notice in Miami... I'll just say it, Black people. wow, hadn't really hit me just how white and homogenous, particularly Chile is... Peru and Bolivia are very different.. much more mixed in terms of indigenous cultures and Spanish influenced folks... and certainly cusco has travelers from all over the world... and there are lots of black folks on the coast in Ecuador in particular...but I dont think I saw more than a handful of African Americans since I left JFK in Dec.. and it didn't hit me until I had time to kill in the airport after touchdown.

Life here is as it was when I left. You realize how little changes in 6 months, unless you are actively in a moment of change, or travelling of course, where time is completely different. Same top 10 hip hop songs on the radio and at the dance parties, can't comment yet on new trends, bc I was living in winter, and summer is in full force on the east coast. but generally, life goes on, and change takes time. Everyone has cars, really big cars. And the first day when my battery was dead, I was homebound, for it's to dangerous to even walk 1/2 mile to the market, because there is barely a foot between the guardrail and that sharp white line on the road. It's great that I live so close to a market in the suburbs.. that's rare.. but you still need to get in your car to go there...

It felt good to have brunch at the Broad street diner in Phila over the weekend... diners being my favorite american insitution, and this one in particular is a classic.... the normal expenses once again are endured, there is just no sense in comparing, and you cant even be resentful for paying $6 for a coffee and brownie, because that's just what we've come to accept.

it's amazing how uninteresting your own culture can be. sure, it can be really interesting as well.. but the interest is a lot more shallow and limited, or maybe that's just because it's familiar. but I prefer to be the odd one out, and that's just not possible here.

What it comes down to, I imagine for any experience, especially when talking about different cultures and lifestyles in other countries, you just can't even put pictures and words together sometimes to create an accurate sense... if you haven't lived it, there is no point of reference.... Bottom line, there are many ways to live your life, but you have to get out there and do some research in order to believe it.

I can't speak to a plethora of goodness in this country, what we do have is opportunity, and choices. While too many choices can be a burden.. it's a priveldged burden... and while I don't subscribe to the American Dream, I do think we need to take better advantage of the resources we have, and use them responsibly.. use what we need and no more. period.

500 people died last year trying to cross the border coming from Mexico, just so they can work, and better support their families. When people talk about wanting to come to the States, it's more often than not, so they can and improve their lives back home, it's not to indulge in the wonderous comforts of American culture. People realize that money is a means and not a goal in itself.

You realize the definition of need is constructed by what we come to know and therefore expect, or desire... and this is what we always need to keep in check.

could go on and on.. but going to sign off here.... with one piece of advice. the next time someone tells you not to talk to strangers, don't listen to them. talk to strangers whenever you can, for as long as it takes, for these conversations are valuable no matter where you are.. they are the only real lens we have to understand our own culture, as well as the those that swirl around us.

Gallery: Salar de Uyuni/southern bolivia

ldeutch — Sun, 4 Jun 2006 02:14:00 GMT

tour through everything and nothing

scattered notes from Santiago.. and the coast

ldeutch — Tue, 30 May 2006 08:57:00 GMT

staying in the neighborhood of Bellavista, a nice old house, high celing hostal. Charlie, the resident all around worker goes out of his way to make you, well to make me feel welcome. Second night we drank wine and ate cazuela together, a typical chilean dish, like soup with meat, potatoes and yam, but a more meal, less soup. he told me he was a well known champion boxer in his day, and whatever I need in town, just say I' m a friend of charlie, and doors will open.. okay.... another star for chilean hospitality.

chilean like to wear boots, it's quite the style, tucked into the pants or not.. all very popular.

there are a few unique cafes near the main plaza in santiago. these are standup only cafe bars, which mostly older men in suits frequent to goggle at the women servers who all wear very short skirts. good cheap coffee. nice decor, very classy, despite the pretext for entry.

coke tastes different here, I've converted to fanta.

valparaise, a nice no nonsense town, 90 minutes on the coast.. foghorns blow at night. cats have kicked out all the dogs, but still magically dog shit is everywhere. flowers bloom in bathtubs. cerros, or hills spring up creating different sectors, some cute, some grungy, all unique and filled with multicolor victorians pouring over the hills. students abound. seafood is bountiful and delicious. in my hostal, an eager oberlin student recites neruda verses in spanish, while his visiting parents check basketball scores on the computer.

there is a big german influence in chile, cities with german names, and lots of kuchen, a strudel like pastry.

the completo almost made me barf, its a common sandwhich which includes a hotdog, buried in guacamole, salsa and topped off with a generous river of mayo. I have to say except for the seafood, not very impressed with chilean cuisine.

education is big business here. lots of pressure from parents on their kids to do well in school, and lots of stress about going to the right school, etc.. at this point there has been a student strike, going on 19 days. high school students fill the parks and streets, occupying their otherwise empty schools, chanting, laughing.. .very punk rock... is it this educational pressure which has sculpted the society into a noticeably organized machine, govt run, with effeciency.. compared to the seemingly anarchy of people run peru and ecuador economies....

neruda, the famous chilean poet, much loved. he had three houses here, and after tomorrow I will have visited them all. quirky, pop, full of international trinkets, games, secret passageways and overall charm. all draped in a love for the sea.. .portals to view the city, ship lanterns at his bedside. I guess the ocean has to consume chilean identity, as it consumes their coastline.

empanadas.. the one food, plentiful and worthwhile to consume... from mini calzone like pockets to fried good ness. and cheap.

this morning I helped an older man use the ATM. he told me normally hsi daughter helps, and obviously she was not around at this moment. as I arrived he was inspecting the machine like some kind of spaceship.. we took care of it.

meat is back safely concealed behind temp controlled glass cases.

overall the city is peaceful, livable.. except I imagine when the smog gets very bad. the metro is its greatest asset. clean, frequent, easy to use, and the stations, all well adorned with art, history, and information.

I ate at KFC last night, and will admit I enjoyed it. afterward watched 6 ft under followed by the movie, house of sand and fog, on HBO. does this mean I am ready to come home...

ready or not, tomorrow I board the plane.

pictures to come.. when I am back in wi fi land.