Goodbye New Jersey. Hello World!

Visit To Fijian School and Village

lauren_watson — Thu, 25 Apr 2013 16:27:00 GMT

We stepped off the small boat from our resort onto the shores of one of the villages in Nacula, Fiji. Nacula is one of the over 300 islands that make up Fiji. It has a population of only a few hundred people, many of whom work in the many surrounding resorts, including the one where I was staying.

Our boat came ashore next to another filled with young Fijian boys. They were the cutest sight to see, goofing around on the boat with their backpacks on, waiting to go home to their village. It brought a “school bus” to a whole new level, and I did note that the boat was a familiar yellow color. As one boy was getting onto the boat he dropped his bright red notebook in the sea. Clearly annoyed he picked it up and threw it back out into the crystal blue and green water. I wonder if his teacher the next day would accept the excuse that his homework got wet. Perhaps that excuse is as common as “the dog ate my homework” is in other places.

My group got off the boat and followed a path surrounded by lush green plants. We would pass small children going the opposite way. Each one would look at me, smile and say “Bula!” which is hello in Fijian. A random cow could be seen in the dense foliage. Our first stop in the village was the primary school for the island. Children from the other 3 island villages had to come here as well. The furthest ones boarded, the rest took the “school boat” I mentioned earlier. The grounds was a collection of small, humble buildings, all one level. The classrooms were simple with desks, a chalkboard and diagrams on the walls. It sounds plain, but there was so much to see! English was everywhere as it is a priority that they all learn it. Where the classrooms lacked in equipment it made up for in bright colors everywhere. A mural of the world map took a whole wall, and next to it a map of their own island. One wall in a classroom depicted the universe, another geometry with all the shapes named in English.

As a teacher, I appreciated these classrooms. They were incredibly basic, without a single piece of technology, and yet I could feel an imprint of the learning and energy that takes places in these rooms every day. I think of how hot it is on the island and wonder how the students are able to concentrate under such conditions. I know that I personally struggle to do my job during the early days of summer.

We thought the school was empty but as we approached the last building singing started to trickle into our ears. The sound intensified as we approached the door. A very young male teacher wearing an Australia rugby top invited us inside. In this tiny room sat on the floor about 50 little boys and girls, all sitting cross legged and in the same uniform. We sat practically on top of them in two rows of wooden seats, myself being in the front. Then, the singing continued.

The best way to describe it is being slapped in the face with a wall of noise. The kids were belting, singing their hearts out. At first I felt a bit ridiculous that these children were made to put a show on for our behalf. I almost felt embarrassed. I was looking at these kids and they were looking right back at me. I wondered what they thought and how many times they had done this before. But then I relaxed and really took a look. The kids were smiling and enjoying themselves. Perhaps a few weren’t singing a song, but then they usually started in on the next one. At one point some of the students got up and danced as the other kids giggled. Most of the songs were Fijian, but in the end they sang a few English songs including “The Ittsy Bittsy Spider” and another with lyrics about Mc Donalds, KFC, and Pizza Hut. Uh wait - do these kids even know what those are? Because the last I checked, there was no fast food on this island, and no TV either.

The students’ passion for the singing overwhelmed me with emotion. The simplicity of the situation was beautiful. And how well behaved they were! As soon as the teacher spoke they hushed down right away. He explained how the school was partially funded by the European Union and he was very grateful. Part of what I paid at the resort I was staying at also went towards the school. He thanked us for our visit and told us we could now go to the village. He wished that God would bless us all.

As we walked some of the children followed us. They wanted to know our names and where we were from. These children meet people from all over the world, but will they ever leave Fiji? Their curiosity was so innocent and genuine that I couldn’t help but smile.

The village was a collection of mostly cement structures over grassy flat areas. Some of the buildings were partially collapsed. Some homes had thatched roofs while most were just cinderblock. Nosy me tried my best to get glimpses inside as I walked past. While there were some small amounts of furniture, homes seemed to be mostly sparse. I wondered if these structures stayed cool in the intense heat and humidity on the island. I can’t help but think about the happiness and wellbeing of the villagers.

Some of the villagers go to the main land to work and live but they almost always come back when they are done. A trip to the main island is very expensive and I don’t think people go very often. The island depends on a cargo ship that comes once a week to drop supplies off to the island. They have a few hours of power a day from a generator and that’s it. There are limited solar power options, but setting it up is very expensive. They exist on a tiny little island cut off form the rest of the world. Maybe that’s why the kids enjoy school and meeting outsiders so much. Perhaps this simple way of island living is ideal for some. I just can’t comprehend it. I think of all the places I have seen in the world and can’t fathom what it would be like to never leave a small bit of land. Ever.

That evening I was back at my resort, not far form the village enjoying my creature comforts. My room was cooling off in the air conditioning. A beautifully cooked dinner sat in front of me. I looked over and saw a little boy guest at the resort, no more than 2 years old, sitting on a chair and using an Ipad. His calm face glowed in the light of the screen as he used his fingers to play a game. How completely different is this child from the ones I met today? Or how similar? What was dinner time like for the villagers, living not that far from here?

Call me a naïve traveler, but the comparison of ways of life is still rattling around in my mind. My life is so different from those living on Nacula, and yet I lived briefly on the island and met these extremely kind and hospitable people. I guess the important thing, for both parties, is that we did meet. It’s important that in life we continue to meet and see places and cultures different to what is considered “normal”.

Autumn in Queenstown New Zealand

lauren_watson — Sun, 21 Apr 2013 12:52:00 GMT

The long, summer days have come to an end. The clocks have gone back, the days are shorter and the town quiets down. The bathing suit clad backpackers have retreated from the lake and moved onto the next place. The foot paths through the parks carry more fallen leaves than people now. They roll across the asphalt and keep a steady pace with me as I walk.

Some of the trees have started to change color, but not all. Those that do pop up and splash images of fire and passion into my mind. Fingery leaves of bright yellow dotted with green touch the sky. Red crisp leaves set the branches ablaze. These trees I see everyday have changed now, and my eyes and thoughts linger there as I walk by.

The days have turned cool and gloomy. Clouds hang low all the time, similar to the heavy thoughts in my mind. The lake is a constant ash grey and flat blue. It laps upon the shore in a quiet way. The fat ducks stand on the shore and stare, missing the tourists that kept them plump. As I stand next to them and look out they glance up hopefully, meet my eyes, and then look back out, accepting the time of plentiful bread crumbs is over for a while.

When the sun does come out it does in patches, breaking free from the thick grey soup inthe sky. The sun chooses to shine on the yellow trees on the hillside. It looks like the land is burning from the brightness. My heart reaches out to these spots, still amazed by the pure simple beauty of it. It’s been 2 ½ years since I arrived and I am still awestruck that a landscape could hold such a power over me. Sometimes I just become so wrapped up in petty problems that I forget to look.

The mountains are always here but are often sheltered by the clouds. They look like a soft blanket, surrounding and comforting them. Cooling them down from the constant harsh sun of the summer. Sometimes the clouds on the Remarkable Mountains retract slightly and I see snow has now fallen. White lines highlight the mountains’ best features that were lost during the summer. I recall the excitement I felt the first time I saw them this way. Now I quietly welcome an old friend back.

So begins my third autumn in Queenstown. Every year I think it will be the last, and yet here I still am. In a month and a half winter will be upon us. The yellow and red leaves will be gone, the air cooler and the mountain snow thicker. Town will pick up again with skiers and snowboarders. Until then I linger in this quiet moment where I get to feel like I am home again. Almost.

The 10 Backpacking Commandments

lauren_watson — Fri, 19 Apr 2013 17:18:00 GMT

Dear Fellow Backpackers and Travelling Nomads: Follow these commandments for hostel living and you will be respected and loved by all whose paths you cross!

Thou Shalt Not:

(1) Steal (this includes food!)

(2) Turn on the main light inthe room if coming back at a late hour and others are sleeping.

(3) Have an abundance of plastic bags that will be searched through during the wee hours of the night/morning.

(4) Use the toilet/shower excessively long if only a few are available.

(5) Spend the entire length of stay glued to a laptop/tablet.

(6) Spread out possessions everywhere in room.

(7) Sit on or use a bed that is not your own.

(8) Bring back a guest to conduct sexual acts with while others are in the room.

(9) Slam the door when leaving.

(10) Conduct yourself in a manner that makes others feel uncomfortable sharing a room with you.

Thou Shall:

(1) Speak in hushed voices to friends if others are sleeping.

(2) Be open to different cultures and walks of life of other backpackers.

(3) Be flexible.

(4) Be friendly to those travelling alone and look like they could use some company.

(5) Help out a fellow backpacker in need, when possible.

(6) Clean up when finished in the kitchen and respect that others need to use it too.

(7) Use complimentary services, such as free breakfast and wifi in a respectful manner and not take advantage just to save a few bucks.

(8) Keep up with basic hygenic standards and wash daily! This includes doing laundry in a timely manner.

(9) Pay your hostel balance in a timely manner.

(10) Do your best to get sick in the bathroom if drunk, and not in your dorm room.

Congratulations! You’ve Got Your Working Holiday Visa in New Zealand! Now What?

lauren_watson — Sat, 17 Nov 2012 07:47:00 GMT

So you’ve decided to come to New Zealand on a working holiday. I bet that you are really excited about the chance to work and live abroad, as you should be. New Zealand is gorgeous with its mountains, beaches, and other impressive landscapes. It’s full of laidback, kind people from all over the world. You only get one working holiday visa for New Zealand in your life and you want to make the most of it. I did a working holiday visa in New Zealand in 2011 and have since stayed. I also work at a backpackers and have met many working holiday makers. I’ve seen people struggle to find work, and others florish. I wanted to give some advice and tips.

There are a lot of people on working holiday in New Zealand and Australia. I was quite surprised by the numbers when I first arrived. There is competition for jobs, especially depending on where you are looking.

(1) If you can, try to get hospitality experience before you leave home. Try to get any work you can in restaurants, whether it be waitressing, coffee making, bar work, kitchen hand, etc. Or if that’s not your thing try to get experience in hotels with housekeeping or portering. These are where the majority of the jobs are for working holiday people and they want to see experience. Do you have a college degree and experience in a “proper career?” Don’t bet on finding that kind of job here. You are on a temporary working holiday basis and you need to come to terms that you are most likely going to be doing low-paid work you never maybe would have thought of at home. The positive is that you will learn new skills and make yourself a more-rounded individual.

(2) Do your research. Every year, lots of backpackers come to Queenstown (where I live) in April and May looking for work. They think it’s smart because it’s just before the ski season so they think they will be one of the first to get work. The reality is this is one of the slowest times of year, no one is hiring and there are no jobs until June. Most of these backpackers then leave, frustrated , or they end up spending lots of money hanging around in town waiting for the job opportunities to start coming. Look into when the busy seasons are in which areas of New Zealand and go from there.

(3) Live in a hostel in the beginning. Try to get work for accomodation. Talking to other people who have jobs is a great way to get in and find a job for yourself. Knowing the right people can make a huge difference. If there’s a place you really want to work spend time there getting to know the staff. Then when the opportunity arrises people will come to you first for the job.

(4) Remember, you are looking for a job. Act professional. If you are going around asking for work, bring copies of your CV. Take the time to talk to people and don’t be obvious that you are literally going from business to business. Remember, you are one of many people looking for work. You want to be remembered. Take the time to write clever cover letters when applicable. If English isn’t your first language have someone check your CV. I have seen some real poor ones dropped off in my day that go straight to the bin.

(5) Don’t give up. If there is a town you really want to be in and the work is not there keep at it. You will eventually find work. The most patient people I have observed are some of the most successful. If you land the right job it might even lead to your sponsorship and more time in New Zealand. I’ve seen many people look for work for about a week and then quit and move on. If you are realistic, find work for accomodation to keep you going that little bit longer, and don’t blow your money all at once, you will be alright.

(6) Apply for your IRD (tax code) number right away. If you can, find a place where you can get it in a day if you pay a small fee. Otherwise it can take weeks to get it and you can’t really get paid until you then (unless you want to be taxed at 50%).

(7) Accept that things might be different here. That is why you want to travel, right? To try something new? Some things will be more expensive and not make sense. You may be working different hours and have different pay than you are used to. Instead of complaining, embrace it!

Good luck and enjoy your working holiday in New Zealand!

Immigration Visas are Not as Fun as Credit Card Visas

lauren_watson — Sat, 17 Nov 2012 07:20:00 GMT

I had the amazing opportunity of finding love while travelling. My English partner and I met while in New Zealand working (him being sponsored, myself on working holiday). We are now engaged. It’s all well and good to be with someone from another country. It’s exciting, fun, and exotic. Until the time comes when you realise that your options of where you can live together are very limited, if there are any at all. I would like to give a short history of how we have managed to keep this relationship going.

First, New Zealand is one of the few countries left where it’s relatively easy to get a temporary work visa. Especially if you are willing to put up with low-paid hospitality work. My partner used to get sponsored as a grill chef. Now he is getting sponsored to work at a liquor store. I can get a work visa through him as his partner. All it takes is a mountain of paper work proving we live together in a genuine and stable relationship. This involves pictures, copies of joint bank accounts, leases, plane tickets, ticket stubs, emails, cards, etc. The process is relatively quick and easy and because of this Steve and I are able to stay in a country together, renewable on a yearly basis.

It’s leaving New Zealand that is a problem. The UK has gotten rid of their General Skilled Migrant visa, which was pretty much my only chance of getting into the country on my own. Other than that option, I have to find a job that would sponsor me in the UK. Being a teacher, and the fact that it’s pretty complicated for a company to sponsor someone, that is pretty slim. I could get a student visa and go back to school, but that would be extremely expensive and pointless. My partner Steve is even more at a disadvantage. He would also need to find a job that would sponsor him in the US and as his background is retail we don’t think there are many opportunities.

You would think since we are getting married it would make things easier, but not really. Getting married doesn’t give the other partner automatic entry into either of our countries. It’s still all about the visa. The UK and US both have fiance visas which is good. The UK fiance visa means the fiance can enter the country and be there for 6 months until you get married and then you can apply for a spousal visa. There are two draw backs. The first is the fiance cannot work until they get married (because this makes sense?). The second is the real killer. Because my partner does not have a job in the UK and also does not have a job offer (pretty difficult to get while in New Zealand), we have to have in savings over 62,000 pounds in our acounts for at least 6 months. WHAT?? Who has that kind of money? We thought the UK would be easier for me to get into but with this requirement, we don’t understand how many people can.

So we are going the US route instead. It’s the scarier one because we have heard stories about how anal they are with paperwork and the slightest mistake can get you rejected. I had to fill out a petition for Steve for the fiance visa and sent it along with my birth certificate, proof of our relationship, passport photos (had to be careful of these as the US has different type passport photos than the rest of the world), proof we had met in the last 2 years, etc, etc. Now we get to wait at least 6 months until hopefully they approve the petition, then Steve will get interviewed at (hopefully) the consulate in New Zealand, provide a lot more other paperwork (medical, criminal background, proof that my sister will be his financial sponsor since I currently don’t have a job in the US,etc), and then he will be approved this fiance visa. Once he enters thecountry we have 3 months to get married, then we apply for his Green Card and he gets to wait in the US and work while we wait for that to go through.

Maybe you are thinking that if we get married in New Zealand it would be easier. Well, not really. We still wouldn’t meet the financial requirement in the UK and we will would have to wait ages to get a Green Card for him. Plus most of our family wouldn’t be able to come to the wedding since we are so far away. We were also thinking about possibly getting residency in New Zealand but we don’t think its feasible in our situation and we also don’t want to live in New Zealand forever. It’s an awesome country but we are ready to settle and be by our families at home.

Hopefully in a year this will all be done.

I love my partner and so this is all worth it. But there are times I wished more than anything he was from the same country as me. We’ve spent hours researching, thinking, planning. I am so thankful every day that we are able to find a temporary home in New Zealand.

We can’t help but think of all the foreign people that are in the US and the UK. How is it that they can get in and it’s so complicated for us to bring our fiance/spouse (whom are educated, trained, would not be any drain on the public systems) in?

The Risk of Becoming Addicted to Travel

lauren_watson — Mon, 3 Sep 2012 20:59:00 GMT

They say ignorance is bliss and I do truly believe that.

My eyes were opened to the world of independent travel and backpacking when I was nearly 25. Learning about hostels and cheap means to travel suddenly made the impossible seem possible. In all my dreams I never even had a speck of an idea that I could go to Australia, Russia, China, Southeast Asia, India, or anywhere else on my own or with the little money I had. The whole world literally opened before my eyes.

So I started to dip my feet in the rivers of traveling. I went about seeing more of my own country first. I discovered how beautiful and diverse America was with its grand national parks and unique cities and people. I then took a few trips to Europe. Some of the trips were with people I met traveling before. Others were on a tour. Sometimes I was all alone.

Traveling on your own at first is scary, I must confess. But once you get over the initial fear and just do it, it can be the most rewarding experience in your life. You find yourself doing things you never thought possible and it leaves you hungry for more.

Traveling can be a drug to some. We call it the “traveling bug” but it's really so much more. I'm afraid I am one that suffers from it. I suppose it's healthier than alcohol or cigarettes, but just as expensive and life altering all the same. It's not a completely negative drug. Traveling is far more educating than school or books, especially if you allow yourself to interact with the native people. If you are on your own you grow and become more independent.

When you do come home, that is the test to see if you are truly addicted. . For me, whenever I came back from a trip I would feel sad, and empty inside. I would try to hold onto the traveling feeling as long as possible by communicating with friends on facebook and going through my photos over and over again. As I felt my “high” of the trip slipping away I would find myself on the computer finding the next place to go. I needed that high so much that it led me to quit my job at 27 and become a full time traveler. I justified it by saying I needed to see the world and experience life outside everything I had known. Really it was about chasing the high and silencing the constant craving.

I backpacked on my own for 8 months. I went through Europe, Russia, China, Australia and New Zealand. The hole was filled, but after time I must confess it was getting to be a bit much. I was content to stay in New Zealand, get a job, find a boyfriend, and enjoy the most beautiful country I have ever laid eyes on. As a result I find myself craving the career, stability and money I used to have. On the other hand, the memories I now have are priceless and every morning I get to wake up in heaven.

The “travel bug” is nagging again. I look at the map and think of all the places I haven't been to. All the places I would like to see. I tell myself that life is short and I need to cram in as much as I can. I'm nearing 30 now. The biological clock is ticking. This should be the time when I ought to be settling down, comfortable in my job and starting a family. I tell myself, just one more trip and it will be enough. I know there will always be “one more trip”.

I really don't know if there is a cure to this addiction.

On the other hand, I'm also scared to rock the boat of my life again and disrupt the somewhat stability that I have established for myself here in New Zealand. I'm scared to risk what I have with my boyfriend (who is from England) and I will never find another country that we can live together in.

I say ignorance is bliss because before I dabbled in this world I was happy. I had everything that I thought I wanted. It was a simple life, and I was extremely naïve, but I was doing alright. Had I not gone on that first trip on my own I'd probably still be in New Jersey, teaching away, probably with a couple of kids.

I don't regret anything with my life. But I do often wonder what exactly the purpose is. Is it to be forever on the road? Or will I eventually find a happy medium? Perhaps there is still something great waiting for me out there and I need to be patient enough to find it.

England vs. America the Little Differences

lauren_watson — Mon, 3 Sep 2012 20:13:00 GMT

I have had the pleasure of traveling a bit in England the last few weeks as I visit with my boyfriend's family and friends. We are based in Hayling Island, close to Portsmouth on the south coast but during our time we have visited Bath, Chichester, Worcester, Burmingham, York, Newcastle, Oxford, and London. My boyfriend has a lot of hospitable friends that opened their homes and let us stay and visit their nearby cities of interest. In this way, I have been fortunate enough to experience a bit more of English life and culture that I certainly wouldn't get any other time I was here as a tourist. I couldn't help but note the “little differences” I have found between here and the States. Many of these I also noticed in Scotland while I was there.

Right, let's get on with it then. Let's start with driving.

1. It is much more common for people in the UK to drive manual cars than automatic. I feel like an idiot for not knowing stick shift and have to rely on other people to take me everywhere.

2. I was surprised to see how many cars take diesel instead of just plain petrol.

3. Speaking of petrol....holy crow it is expensive here! I truly thought New Zealand had the most expensive gasoline but it now appears that England is higher. These high prices don't seem to stop everyone from being on the road, though. I would assume these manual cars are hopefully more fuel efficient.

4. Parking spaces are scarily small. It's a good thing that there aren't too many big cars in England. What's with the Range Rovers being the typical larger car of choice?

5. I've found a lot of roads, usually in the residential areas, to be extremely narrow as well. Usually people going in the other direction have to pull over to let the others pass. But cars are also parked on the road? Me being used to my big cars and big roads am constantly nervous we are going to hit someone but it all works out.

6. Massive roundabouts (traffic circles). Apparently there are places that have roundabouts within roundabouts....yikes! But they do seem to make sense and keep the traffic flowing. I would rather deal with them than a crazy intersection.

7. The traffic lights warn you when it's going to turn green again. The light will be red, then the yellow comes on at the same time and then green. Very handy if you are driving stick shift. Fun if you like to gun it and go early. I've noticed even in cities that the traffic light will flash yellow while it's red and supposedly it's okay to go if there aren't people crossing. Well at least I saw cars going, I can't attest as to whether it is legal or not.

8. Zig zag markings on the roads.

As I mentioned before I had the chance to stay in quite a few friend's and family's homes while I was in England. I noticed quite a few slight differences between American ones.

9. The homes are a lot closer together. In many cases they are connected with the place right next door. Sometimes in cities you will see long strips of buildings that are broken up into dozens of housing units. The houses are usually made with brick, which is much less common in the States. Despite these homes being smaller than a typical American one, they are certainly not cheaper. Of course, location is everything but it just seems to me you get a lot more buying a house in the States, if not for the land alone.

10. The “back yard” or garden if you'd like to call it is always fenced off from every other house. It is nice in a way because you've got your own private little spot. I've seen some homes with gorgeous gardens that create a nice atmosphere to relax and read. You could almost forget that you are living directly next to usually two other people.

11. The living rooms or “lounges” as they call it always have doors. So do the kitchens. I find this extremely interesting that it's important to close every room off. This is very different from the usual open floor plan to an American house. Being able to close off your lounge while you are watching TV can be very cozy I must confess but it does feel a bit strange to someone that isn't used to it.

12. Not every home, but a few had a nice little sun room. I definitely love that idea.

13. Perhaps this is not usual but in many of the homes I visited the doors needed to be locked on the inside with a key. I really don't like this idea because if you don't know where the key is you are literally locked inside of a house.

Despite driving and homes, there are other random differences that I have noticed.

14. The pubs have a different and more preferable atmosphere than a typical “American sports bar” I would say. A lot of them have a large rectangle sign with a picture accompanying the name of the pub. There is always local ale on tap that is often cheaper than the mainstream stuff. I really enjoyed trying different ales.

15. Signs warning of elderly people. I understand that it's the protect them but they look the same as the signs that warn you about deer. All of a sudden an elderly person is going to run out and cause damage to your car.

16. Super cheap pre-made takeaway sandwiches and meal deals at the supermarkets. I love the Tesco meal deals where you can get a sandwich, drink and snack for 2.50 pounds. Very good for those traveling on a budget.

17.The radio is actually decent. I have thoroughly enjoyed listening to BBC radio one. There are not many commercials and you get a signal everywhere in the country. The programming is not as repetitive as the standard radio stations in the States.

18.Obviously the weather is not the same. I am always going to prefer the sunny warm summer days in America. It's not all rain here like people think but its certainly not as sunny. I get why so many people are paler here. At least there's less risk of skin cancer.

19. Less commercials on TV.

20.Everything is a lot older. The cities are ancient. Some buildings are many times older than America. There's so much history to be found.

Of course, I need to mention some of the food I have tried.

1. Fish and chips are pretty awesome here. Especially if they leave the skin on.

2. Pasties are almost like meat pies except the shape of the pastry is different and the texture. I tried 2. One was from that popular Cornwall pasty place. They were both alright.

3. Yorkshire pudding is this little bread thing you find often with steak. Again, just okay.

4. Full English breakfast: Eggs, toast, tomato, bacon, sausages, beans. Leave out the traditional black pudding and it's awesome.

5. Lots of different sauces accompany meats you get. Love the mustards and the variety.

6. Sunday roast dinner involves yummy meat and potatoes together. So good!

Some of these differences I prefer and others I do not. What's even more interesting is to see which aspects of America and England have combined and carried over to such places as Australia and New Zealand. It's these little differences that makes the trip that much more enjoyable.

When Going Home Becomes Your Holiday

lauren_watson — Wed, 22 Aug 2012 02:03:00 GMT

Many times in the past two years I envisioned what coming home would be like. It was often when I was riding on trains, or trying to sleep at night. I thought it would perhaps be something similar to out of a movie with meeting loved ones with hugs and tears.

I finally got that chance to come home for a visit. I left for a holiday and found myself living abroad. Ironically, now going home has become the holiday. I flew into JFK airport with my partner Steve. Going through customs wasn't the nightmare I thought it would be, as I had visited many countries while I was gone. My Aunt and Grandmother were kind enough to arrange for someone to pick us up and drive us home to New Jersey. I was a bit disorientated from the 16 and a half hours in the air but I still was able to take the traffic and highways in. After awhile, we were there, pulling up to my Grandmother's house where we would stay for a few weeks. We collected our bags, went to the house, and got the greeting I had been waiting for.

It was like it had only been a few weeks since I last saw her and my Aunt, instead of a few years. It was a bizarre feeling really. And comforting. I would say that would sum up my time at home, comforting and familiar. I suppose with facebook and Skype allowing me to keep in touch with everyone it makes sense. As the weeks passed, I met up with many people and it was a similar experience. Some people perhaps changed slightly in appearance but visits with them felt like I never went on a trip at all. We picked up the same conversations that we left off with years ago. It makes me think, if I hadn't left for this big trip then this would still be my life as well. I am certainly glad that I went on the trip that I did but now I begin to wonder if it's time to go back to the old life. It certainly contains a comforting element that I have yet to find in my life in New Zealand. I'm not going to lie, I miss the career, the extra funds, the strong friendships and the family. I'm starting to think again about setting down the roots.

Things haven't really changed but I will say that my eyes looking upon everything have. My life in Queenstown is very small and sheltered and experiencing again one of the most populated areas in the States has been a bit of a shock. For one thing I was initially bewildered at all the variety, especially in the grocery stores. I enjoyed shopping as I do feel that fashion styles are slightly different here than in New Zealand. I forgot how dependent us Americans are on cars and lack of opportunities to exercise outside of the gym. I nearly had a melt down driving outside the Washington DC area from the cars and traffic on 95 South. I found America to not be as cheap as I remembered it being, with the exception of the petrol. That was a nice change. It seems like everyone has a smart phone now, and when did they start putting those little phone bar codes on everything? And what is with all the #twitter stuff everywhere as well? I found my diet changed as I was able to eat more chicken and vegetables again, these two things being especially expensive in Queenstown. Having a a Grandmother and parents to cook food for us was nice as well.

Going to New York City was my favorite part. Steve my partner had never been, I ended up doing things I never had done before, such as the Brooklyn Bridge, the 9/11 Memorial, and Top of the Rock. Seeing a city you are familiar with after traveling is something else. If anything, I think I appreciate NYC even more. I have been to many, many cities in my travels. Each one has its own personality with the people, the transport, and the buildings. I enjoyed the cities in Europe with all of their history and culture. I liked the cities in China for their differences from the Western World. I found myself a bit bored with the Australian cities being a bit too modern (sorry). There's just something about NYC that I love. Perhaps it's the blend of modern skyscrapers with classic architecture. Or the craziness of the cab drivers and traffic. It could be the familiar unpleasant smell of the subways coming up from the vents in the sidewalks, or how there always seems to be something going around, no matter where you look. It's very interesting how traveling can make you open your eyes up more to the world that you live in.

Going home certainly had many happy moments. I got to see friends and family that I missed dearly. But it was a bit frustrating and sad as well. You see everyone for a bit, but then you have to say goodbye again. It pulls at the heart strings. It's easier to deal with not being around people when you are far away and haven't seem them in awhile. But when they are right there, and you find yourselves laughing like you used to, joking like you used to, and not having a care in the world with the people that you love you don't want to leave it again. I know that it will be fine when I get back to New Zealand, but when I have to say goodbye to people it can feel like a cold and empty place. When I was on my travels, and even settled abroad I often felt alone, even though I have been fortunate to form some friendships and relations with people. Going home has been a nice reminder that I still matter to people. I guess that makes the hurt of saying goodbye again worth it.

I'd like to thank everyone at home for making my visit worthwhile, especially to my Grandmother, Aunts, sister, mother, father and step-mom. Thanks also to my friends for making the effort to see us, even if it may have been for a few hours. Believe me, I wish it could have been more.

I hope it's less than 2 more years before the next time I visit, and until then I will be thinking of you all fondly.

I'm Going Home Tomorrow

lauren_watson — Sat, 28 Jul 2012 18:29:00 GMT

I remember the first time I put on my full pack. Man, the thing was heavy. Walking with it was awkward and I felt like I was carrying the weight of another person. There were things in that bag I knew I shouldn't have packed (sleeping bag) and things missing I should have (rain coat, proper toiletries bag). I couldn't tell what was going on behind me as I walked through busy Penn Station in New York and I had to take care not to hit anyone when I turned. I was so nervous about what was ahead of me, being on an around-the-world backpacking trip starting in Ireland and ending ?? But I was anxious and ready to go.

Today, 2 years later I slip on my pack and it fits me like a glove. It's been awhile since we have been together, and I can't help but think “hello, old friend”. A certain thrill runs through my blood that I haven't felt in a long time. My attempts to wash the dirt and smells off it have long failed. I see the brown spots and think of it being shoved under benches in Chinese and Russian trains. I smell the flowery odor of my conditioner in the top pocket where my toiletries burst open more times than I would like. I smell...well I am not sure what you want to call it....muskiness? The bag has been on 13 planes, about 10 trains and a few boats and buses. I don't think the smell is going away anytime soon, so why bother? I touch the fabric and think of the time I had to hold it in my lap on a cramped 4 hour bus ride through southern China. My knees started to go numb after a bit. I should get a new bag really, but I won't. We will be together until it dies, because I am just too loyal to something that never gave up on me.

I am going home. For a holiday. Then I am coming back to New Zealand where I currently live. Just as I didn't know how long I would be when I initially left, I am not sure how long it will be when I leave again. It's bizarre, that I am going home for just a visit. I haven't seen my family and friends in 2 years and now it will be for just a tiny few 3 weeks.

I sit in my bedroom and finger the few American notes I currently have. They feel familiar and yet foreign to me at the same time. I guess the same can be said for how I feel about home. At first I was so excited but as the trip draws near I am nervous. What are people going to think of me? Do people still think of me the same way as when I left? I start to feel badly about the people I lost touch with. I am really not the same person as when I left- neither mentally or physically. In some ways I am better and some ways I am worse. I left home because I was lost. But to be honest, I feel no more found as when I left, perhaps I am even more lost. I am nervous about what I will think of home. Will I not want to leave again? Will I regret any choices that I made?

Living abroad can be a hard choice, particularly if you live on the other side of the globe. After awhile you get used to missing all the events at home. But you have this comforting feeling that everyone is still there, looking forward to seeing you. It's a scary thought that perhaps people have moved on and have perhaps given up on you.

Bottom line, it feels good to get that pack on again. It's been far too long.

The Things I Do and Do Not Miss From America

lauren_watson — Mon, 28 May 2012 10:22:00 GMT

In two months I will be going back to the States for a visit for the first time in 2 years. I have been inspired to write the things I do miss and don't miss about my home. In my 2 years time I have backpacked through Europe, bits of Asia, Australia and then came to live in New Zealand. Some of these comparisons are more Australiasia specific but others are world wide.

Top Things I Miss From America (or specifically New Jersey)

(1) Normal, cheap, black coffee. Particularly of the Dunkin Donuts variety but I'll take those unlimited cups you get at a diner as well. The cheapest coffee I can get in Australia/New Zealand is about $3.50. If you think that's high go into a Starbucks abroad. You'll have a heart attack.

(2) Cheap food, massive portions. Yep, I am a big fatty with my food. I miss IHOP pancakes that are as big as your head. Pizza from the local pizzeria. Unlimited pasta at the Olive Garden. Humongous slices of cheesecake at the Cheesecake Factory. And Mexican food!

(3) Tipping. In America waiters and waitresses make less than minimum wage. This means they depend on tips. I don't necessarily agree with this system, but it makes people work for it. Tipping leads to really good customer service often. Yes, you will always encounter the odd case of poor service but overall it leads to friendly people looking after you.

(4) Cheap clothes, cheap petrol, cheap food, etc. Taxes are lower here than other parts of the world. And there are a lot of resources. And a lot of people. If I hear another person from the states complain about high gas prices I am going to lose it. Sorry, you aren't going to convince this girl that pays $85 NZD to fill up her car every time. I am going to go on a spending spree when I get home.

(5) Not getting laughed/looked at weird at when I say words like “tomato” or “basil”. I work at a bakery and when we sell meat pies we are required to ask if the customer wants tomato sauce with that. I stopped saying tomato ages ago because of the looks and the teasing. Sure, I could easily say it the “English” way but it sounds wrong. And I feel like a traitor. I just can't do it dammit. In fact, it will be nice not to be judged by accent because I know it still happens more than you would think.

(6) Being able to get away with speeding. I know, this one is horrible! But it's true. Back at home I used to go an average of 10 mph over the limit on highways, and at least 5 mph over the limit on back roads. I'm paranoid to speed abroad. So many places have speed cameras to catch you. The same goes with drinking and driving. Plus back at home it's easier to blend in with other cars on a highway that are going just as fast as you. I am ashamed to admit this but I would think nothing of having a few beers and driving home in America. In New Zealand and Australia I would absolutely not drive, even if I had a single drink. The cops randomly stop people all the time to breath check them and they don't need a reason. To be honest, I am glad I've experienced this because it has made me think twice about driving under the influence back home.

(7) The Imperial Measurement System. I'm used to the metric system but I don't think it is ever going to be how I naturally think. I am never going to get feet, inches, pounds, and miles out of my head. And the same goes with Fahrenheit versus Celsius. I totally understand how Celsius came about, and it does make more sense than Fahrenheit. But when it's hot, the temperature should be a high number. When it's cold it should be a low number. 30 degrees is never going to register as hot in my brain, no matter how long it has been since I have been home.

(8) Patriotism. I'm going to sound like a dork, but I do miss seeing that American flag raised. A lot of people abroad have told me they don't like our patriotism and find it silly. I don't mind it. I like that we are proud.

(9) My family/friends. An obvious one, but I had to put it.

Top Things I Do Not Miss From America (or specifically New Jersey)

(1)Prices displayed without the sales tax included. Everywhere else in the world includes taxes with prices of things for sale. It's nice to approach the cash register and know exactly what you need to pay. It's just common sense. It almost feels like a trick the way America does it.

(2) Paying to go to a beach...or a lake....or anywhere else that has a lifeguard present. I know that all beaches in America don't charge, but the majority of the ones in New Jersey do during the peak season. You have to pay even if you want to just sit on the sand and not swim. I understand that this money goes to lifeguards and keeping the beach clean, but we do we even really need them? Can't we just look after ourselves ? Or perhaps just have a few paid beaches with lifeguards so we have the option?

(3) No hitchhiking. Many countries do not condone this activity anymore. This is because there are crazy rapist/killers out there that have ruined it. In New Zealand it is still common place and it's working fine. I don't even usually hitchhike but I like knowing that I could if I needed to. I love being in a place where it's safe and friendly enough to do so.

(4) Pennies. In New Zealand and Australia they have eliminated 1 cent pieces and 5 cents as well in New Zealand. The only time you still might pay cents is if you pay by card. Otherwise there is just rounding. It's so much easier and you don't have a ridiculous amount of change in your pocket. I heard that it costs more to make a penny now than they are worth anyways.

(5) The “American Bubble” as I like to call it. It is very easy to live in the states and have no idea what is going on anywhere else in the world. Except of course for all the drama going on in the middle east. All of our mainstream TV, movies, and music are all American. Most of the news is about American things. It's interesting how everyone else in the world knows about America and yet we could possibly know nothing about them. You really have to make the effort to learn about the rest of the world sometimes.

(6) Tipping. I know I am contradicting myself here. But sometimes tipping really sucks. Especially in a bar when the only service I am getting from the bartender is a pour of a beer.

(7) Cheap medicine and emergency health care. I pay hardly anything for my birth control medicine in New Zealand. If I were to get in a serious accident I wouldn't have to pay for that care either. We all know that isn't the case in America. Especially since I don't have insurance. Hmmm....guess there is a price to pay with low taxes and the cheap food, petrol, etc that I mentioned above.

(8) People everywhere. This is a more north-eastern specific thing because I know there are many empty places in the United States. I don't miss rush hour traffic, beaches covered with bodies, crowded Walmarts, etc. I think I am going to have a panic attack when I fly into New York City. But, on the other hand I think I am excited about it as well.

(9) Dependency on a car. Unless you live in a major city it really sucks not having a car. Even just going to the supermarket can be a pain as you could wind up having to walk on a major highway to get there. Oh and I don't miss the massive SUV's everywhere and the people that don't know how to drive them. I am going to laugh when I see the next Hummer.

(10) A ridiculously low minimum wage that you cannot survive on.

I love living abroad and sometimes it is frustrating. If anything I have learned that the grass is always greener on the other side and you can't have it all. I am not saying that it's better to live one place or another. The nice thing is that I have had the opportunity to experience both. The list for what I will and won't miss could go on and on but it will be interesting to see what other things I will miss from one place once I go to the next.

I'm From America, My Boyfriend is from England, We Live in New Zealand....and It's Complicated

lauren_watson — Sun, 26 Feb 2012 15:43:00 GMT

I log into the immigration New Zealand website for probably the 15^th time this week. I check the status of my work visa application lodged on the 15^th of February. Alas, the words PENDING on my page burn into my brain as I glance at the calendar and see that I have roughly 3 weeks left until my existing working holiday visa runs out. A nervous feeling returns in my chest that I have not felt in quite some time. I sense an uneasiness flow through my veins that extend to the ends of my extremities. I take a glance out the window onto the lake and the mountains, wondering how many days left I have to enjoy this view that I admit I have begun to take for granted.

Interestingly enough this is how I felt about this time last year. Because I had applied for my working holiday visa from within New Zealand as a tourist, I had to wait some time before my visa was approved. I remember checking my email and the immigration website constantly and eventually calling daily to see when I would know. Back then it was annoying but I took it all well. Back then I had nothing to lose. Now I do.

His name is Steve. I met him at work. We knew from the beginning that things would be different for us. I moved in with him a week after I started seeing him and we have been together since, 11 months later. The complicated part is that Steve is from England, I am from America, and we live in New Zealand. Our time together hangs on the validity of our visas and how long New Zealand decides they will allow us to stay in its beautiful country.

Steve’s work visa was approved almost instantaneously last month, being that it was a simple renewal of the existing sponsorship that he already had. Mine was more complicated. Boldly I applied for a partnership visa this time instead of having my work place sponsor me. I did this because I heard the partnership visa was relatively easy to get and I didn’t want to restrict myself to working at the same place for the following year. We felt so confident when I first applied for the visa, only to have our hopes crushed 3 days later with a memo from immigration indicating we did not have enough proof that we were in a relationship. We furiously gathered all that we could think of, creating a chronology of our relationship with photographs, submitting receipts of gifts we had given each other, copies of emails and face book conversations, and presenting copies of our bank statements over the last few months indicating that we had gone on a holiday together. We even supplied cards written to each other and from family and friends to both of us. This was in addition to the original evidence we supplied of our names on the same lease and bank account and a letter from a coworker attesting to our relationship. I knew that we were together and serious but I was at a loss of how I could show others. I realized how important it is for us to keep everything sentimental between us, given the situation that we were in. This was also a lesson for the next time that we will have to go through this again. I submitted the over-stuffed file to immigration as further evidence, and now we sit and patiently wait.

Having a partner from another country can be very exciting and rewarding. You get to learn about each other’s backgrounds and struggle over understanding what the other person is saying sometimes. You have the opportunity to visit family from different parts of the world. The accent is a turn on. But being with someone from another country can be quite frustrating as well, especially if you are not married and living in a third country that neither of you can claim home. Steve and I love each other, and we have talked about long term plans together. But we aren’t going to get married for the sake of a visa either. Our options are quite limited. As an American and not a recent graduate I can only get a working holiday visa in Australia or New Zealand. I have exhausted both of these visas. English people cannot get working holiday visas in America unless they are recent university graduates. You can get a partnership visa in England after living together for 2 years. You can get a partnership visa in America after living together for 7 years. Hmmm. Guess we need to try our best to stay in New Zealand then.

I am often jealous of couples of the same country that are living here temporarily in Queenstown. They often will decide to go traveling for a few months, and then get settled at home. Steve and I are ready to do this but unfortunately our home countries won’t let us be together. We have had extensive talks about how the one person could work at home while the other depended on them and tried to see if they could find a job that would lead to a visa. We talked about being separate for awhile to figure out what we wanted to do next. We entertained volunteering/teaching abroad to keep us together but in another country longer. The happiest option we could think of would be to stay in New Zealand for at least another year as we prepare for what we will do next.

If this partnership visa does not go through for me I will try to get one through sponsorship at work. But time will be limited at that point and it makes me worried. A part of me is kicking myself in the ass for not doing this in the first place but I didn’t realize things were going to turn out this way. A year and a half ago I was nervous but excited about packing up, leaving everything behind and going to see the world. Now I have my reservations as I don’t want to leave the most important person in my life.

If this visa does get approved I will appreciate my time I have with him here. I will make sure to keep all future evidence that we are together. I will do more things like put him as an owner on my car, put us both on an insurance plan, and anything else I can think of so that we leave a paper trail that we are together. I know that this puts off the inevitable of we where we will go once this visa runs out, but at least it gets us time.

I know that there are other people in the same boat as us. I know that they will understand. Regardless, I know that I am not meant to live a traditional life, not yet. Even if that means having to go to the ends of the world to find a place to be with the love of my life. To do things I never thought I would have to do.

I really hope the next time I check with the immigration visa website it will say APPROVED next to my visa application. I have learned my lesson.

The Old Warm vs. Cold Christmas Debate

lauren_watson — Mon, 2 Jan 2012 13:09:00 GMT

When you are traveling the Southern Hemisphere around the holidays, you are bound to find yourself in a conversation about the difference of Christmas here and Christmas home. I hear all the time “Christmas should be cold” from an American or English person and then an automatic “no it should be hot” back from an Australian or perhaps a Kiwi. I am from the States and an area that is quite chilly come Christmas time. This is my second year celebrating Christmas “down under”. Last year was in Melbourne, Australia, and this year in Queenstown, New Zealand. I feel the need to contribute to this old debate.

I would like to add commentary to the common issues I hear from travelers in this part of the world.

Common Issue # 1 Christmas should be cold. Where is the snow? Okay this will definitely feel true to people from the northern part of the world. It certainly doesn’t make sense to hear songs down here such as “I’m Dreaming of a White Christmas” and “Walking in a Winter Wonderland”. Instead of holiday shopping in your boots, coat and scarf you are wondering around in sandals and shorts. It is a bit of a shocker when you find yourself soaking in the sun, drinking a cocktail, digging your feet in the sand and then realise that it’s December and it’s all wrong. But it’s pretty great too. Think of everyone cold and bundled up and here you are working on your tan. Of course they will have their laugh when they are hot in July and you are freezing but who cares about that now?

Common Issue #2 Where is the Christmas Spirit? The lights? The decorations? I have most definitely found that there is a lot less Christmas decorations here in Australia and New Zealand. It certainly is not in your face as it is back in the states. You don’t see Christmas lights or homes usually decorated. However, we also need to remember that the summer sun sets a lot later than the winter sun (10:30 pm here in Queenstown!) and there’s almost no point. You won’t find any of those tacky blow up snow globes in people’s lawns (hmmm….is this one really missed?) nor will you see any garland or wreaths on doors. The smell of pine needles is absent as is Egg Nog. The spirit is there, you just need to look a little harder. If you really needed a fix you could visit any shopping center and Santa and a Christmas tree will most likely be there. Towns still organize events on the weekends where you can hear caroling and you will pass Salvation Army instrument players in the street collecting money for charity. The usual holiday sweets are available to buy as well.

Common Issue #3 I’m away from home and don’t have my family! Christmas here is horrible! Welcome to the world of the “orphan Christmas” as we people living abroad like to call it. No, you aren’t with your family because you chose to be away from home for Christmas. No, it will never, ever feel like normal, whether you are used to a hot Christmas or cold. But simply look around and if you are traveling you will find many others in the same boat. Since the weather will most likely be nice you have a chance to have a nice little party, drinking beers, soaking up the sun and barbequing Christmas feast.

Is Christmas better warm? Is it better cold? Really it doesn’t matter. It might appear that Christmas is treated differently on opposite parts of the world but it’s celebrated the same way. People get together with their family, friends, loved ones, open presents and cherish their time together. The only difference is the amount of clothes they are wearing J

Christmas will never feel completely normal for me while I am away. But I understand that this is not necessarily about the weather, but more of the family and friends I am missing. I like that Santa wears a bathing suit here and Christmas roast is grilled not baked. I look very much forward to my next Christmas in the snow, but have really come to enjoy the greatness of a warm holiday. It helped for me to put forth the effort of contributing some Christmas spirit, especially with putting up decorations and a Christmas tree in my home

Another thing to keep in mind is that a warm Christmas is followed by a warm New Year’s. In my opinion this is far superior to a cold one. It’s so much better to be partying at night in the warm weather and have the chance to watch fire works on the beach with your mates. I can’t think of a more enjoyable way to put away the past and look forward to the future.

Road Tripping the South Island

lauren_watson — Sun, 11 Dec 2011 17:25:00 GMT

The time had finally come to use the "holiday" part of my working holiday visa. I was coming up on 8 months of working in Queenstown, and it was time to take a break. My boyfriend Steve and I toyed with a few ideas. Shall we go to Fiji? Singapore? The North Island? After much hemming and hawing it was agreed we would stay in New Zealand and explore.

Now Steve and I had both traveled around New Zealand already, both of us using different tour companies. This would be the first time doing it on our own, and with each other. We had two goals in mind: Sun and relaxation. Having already visited these places before, we thought we had no surprises ahead of us.

So on a Monday morning we were off. Into my old “94 Mazda Capella we went. As I settled behind the wheel I prayed my extremely worn, backpacker-abused beast of a car would make the long journey. Poor Steve was suffering in the seat next to me, having gone out for his 30^th birthday the night before. I was angry and had a feeling I would be on my own for the first day’s worth of 6 hours of driving. No matter it would be in a car with a busted radio and a slightly musty odor.

Navigating New Zealand, particularly the South Island is one of the easiest things you can do. No map is required as there is usually only one road to get you from one place to the next. You pretty much stay on that road the entire time, which is more often than not one lane. Thankfully every now and then there are passing lanes so you can get past any tourist or truck you have been stuck behind. At each intersection it is clearly labeled with which important towns are in each direction. Compared to driving the east coast of the states where I would sometimes get lost 20 minutes away from town, this was a cake walk.

So, after I passed through some familiar towns around Queenstown, I reached the crossroads with a sign pointing towards the West Coast. Ahhh….a chance to leave this place for awhile. A little while later we passed by Lake Hawea, which I still feel is one of the prettiest places in New Zealand. It’s uninhabited with turquoise water surrounded by a certain bareness common to the center of the South Island. I remembered when I first laid eyes upon this at the end of January. I couldn’t believe that places like this existed, as if it was sprung from someone’s dream. It was back in February I vowed I would do everything in my power to live here…..and here I am.

But as we journeyed closer and closer to the West Coast the weather became worse and worse, typical. The last time I was here there was nothing but rain, sand flies and a lot of sheep and cows. It appears not much has changed. I’ve been told that when the clouds clear it’s actually quite spectacular, but unfortunately I would not be experiencing it on this trip. For hour and hours I was so bored driving through and endless cloud. We wound our way around the mountains we couldn’t see, and the landscape was never changing. When we stepped out of the car we were confronted by a colony of sand flies, which immediately went for the good old ankles. When we got back in the car we tried everything in our power not to scratch and thus create more itching problems later when we try to sleep. To be honest, I wouldn’t mind never visiting the South Coast again. Don’t get me wrong, it is something to do if you are road tripping the South Island. I just hope for your sake that you are fortunate with the weather. While there is something mysterious about the clouds and rolling countryside it is just not for me. The whole drive I knew that there were majestic mountains surrounding us but was frustrated I couldn’t see them.

We spent the night in Hokitika, a small seaside town famous for its jade production. The clouds were low and it almost felt like a ghost town. No one was on the streets or at the beach. The shore is covered with beautiful flat, gray green, and white stones. Steve and I wandered the foggy shore picking out the perfect stones for each other. Despite the poor weather we marveled at the ocean and the cheapest fish and chips we had seen in ages. In our cozy little hostel room we got to listen to the wind and the sea.

The following day involved more driving. More up hills and down hills and curves, of course. We passed through Greymouth, a town I think is pretty large by west coast standards. It is on the sea and I could see the appeal of living here. Winding and winding we went, getting impatient and taking the turns a bit too quickly. Now the roads were winding alongside the seaside and it was far more exciting. The weather was still a bit grim. You couldn’t see very far in front of you from the fog. The sea was continuously pounding and shaping the land. Large cliffs and rocks jut out into the ocean and I couldn’t help but think of the 12 Apostles on the Great Ocean in Road in Australia. It’s funny how when you are traveling you can’t help but compare it to other things you have seen traveling. At least that is what I do. Perhaps that is why I feel traveling to continue to be so appealing, as it reminds me of happy memories of all the things I have seen and done. I feel very fortunate that I have the memories to begin with.

You drive through so many little towns on the South island. You cruise along at 100 kph and then you see the new speed posting, clearly labeling the town name. Usually you have to go down to about 50 or so. You literally wiz through the village in less than 5 minutes. Usually you pass a petrol station, a café, probably even a dairy (convenience store). Fortunately there is always a public toilet not far for those long road trips. Then as quick as you arrive you are back on the road, back to the middle of nowhere….correction - you never really left it. Every time we drove through one of these towns Steve would wonder who would think to put a town there, and why anyone would want to live there. Some towns were set up on an industry that thrived years ago. Others…well I just don’t know.

Finally we got closer to Abel Tasman, starting first at Montueka. We gawked at the cheaper produce in the supermarket and bought our dinners for the next few nights. And then we were there - right outside Abel Tasman National Park. We were a bit discouraged about the weather when we arrived but thrilled the next day as we had sunny skies, a sandy golden beach, and shallow, Caribbean-like waters. We had practically the beach to ourselves as we got to relax and laugh about how this was just as good as Fiji. It was exactly how I remembered the last time I was there, although this time I was sharing it with someone that I loved. I remembered when I was backpacking on my own and I constantly found romantic spots where I wish I had someone special to share with.

Our hostel was lovely - tucked away in the woods with birds singing all day. Although Steve and I had the joy of sleeping in a bunk bed. I was starting to really enjoy my time with him without TV and work and all the other distractions and stress of reality. We had the pleasure of talking with a 50 or so year old woman from England who had been traveling for 8 months already. I love meeting the long-term travelers, as they have a certain calm air about them. I wonder what short-termers thought of me when I was on my long trip.

A few days of that and we were off to Nelson only a few hours away. But first we visited a place that neither of us had ever been to before, the Golden Bay area. Up there we discovered more sapphire blue water, funky quaint towns, tiny coves and surprisingly a pretty populated area, at least by New Zealand standards. The trip did involve one of the steepest, windiest, and longest roads I personally have ever driven. On our way out of the town I started to smell a horrible, burning order. Moments later I discovered it was my breaks burning. Oh well. No real surprise with this car.

The city of Nelson was haven to us, containing things we can’t get in Queenstown. Our eyes went wide as we saw the 3D cinema, beach along the sea, lots of shops and sadly even the Pizza Hut and Dominoes. Originally we were going to stay just two nights but we immediately changed it to three. Our hostel had a funky vibe to it, including the fattest cat I think I have ever petted. We enjoyed the warmth, the beach, the free chocolate pudding our hostel supplied us and yes, even though the Dominoes. And that pizza was just as shitty as I last remembered. Unfortunately Steve and I started again with the whole “what we are doing with our lives?” conversation that is often prompted by some drinking. We wondered what it would be like if we lived up here. I started to recall just how different I felt while traveling and how easy it was for me to get into that mode again…like a perfect glove. The stress was gone, I was more active and in a way felt healthier as well. It was a nice change from my office job and sitting at a desk all day. We visited a couple of hip bars, one advertising flaming cookie monster shots and another that was in an old church. When we did leave we were sad - filled with what-if’s in our head. But I kept reminding Steve that this place was exciting because it was different, as most places are. And that if the tables were turned and we were living in Nelson and visiting Queenstown we would probably be feeling the same way.

We were off then for a day of driving along the east coast. We got to Kailoura, one of the prettiest seaside towns I have ever been to. I still have strong memories of my visit in February of the smooth black stones touching the aqua sea. The windy road along the coast. The mountains that dipped into the sea. Unfortunately our arrival was met with rain, rain and more rain. I did get my Christmas shopping done for my family back home. As cliché as it sounds, Steve and I spent the afternoon sharing wine and cheese, as you should do on a holiday. After a drunken nap we found ourselves in small pub listening to an Irish musician, who referred to the Kiwi Experience as “the fuck bus“.

The following day was the longest drive yet. We stopped at Christchurch and curiosity had us trying to see what earthquake rubble we could find. The last time I was there was the two days before the earthquake and to be honest I wish I had spent more time exploring the CBD and cathedral square. We stopped at McDonalds and I had my second Big Mac ever - my first being in Beijing. We were originally looking for a Wendys or Denny’s remembering that they were in Christchurch, or at least they used to be. I will chase anything form the States that I miss. Unfortunately McDonalds would have to do.

We unfortunately had a bit more of poor weather as we made our way to Lake Tekapo. Another awesome, although quiet place to visit. A special place for Steve and I as we had spent time there before. Tall, purple flowers of all shades were everywhere, something I had never seen before. We tried to make the most of our last day and spent time relaxing in the available hot pools and sauna.

Our drive home was lined with the brilliant purple flowers. My mind wandered as the scenery started to become more familiar again. We passed the barren hills, the waving grass, the rocks and we followed the purple flowers home. I felt pleased with my first holiday with Steve, despite its rocky start. I felt good about seeing pieces of New Zealand again, and exploring new ones. But I also felt a sense of closure as well. I’m good with the South Island I think, and I am ready to check out some new things.

Steve and I arrived back in good old Queenstown and were greeted with warm, sunny weather that arrived when we were gone. Waiting for me was my South East Asia Lonely planet I ordered from Amazon a few weeks ago. Hmmmm. I’m starting to feel more ready.

5 Things You Must Do in Queenstown, New Zealand

lauren_watson — Sun, 21 Aug 2011 10:00:00 GMT

There are many ways to come into Queenstown. You can fly in from Australia or other parts of New Zealand. On a clear day you get the privilege of watching the large mountains below you as your plane eventually slices between them. You get to see the magnificent, turquoise Lake Wakatipu that looks too perfect to be real. Or you could drive or take the bus and pass through barren, high mountains that glimmer brightly with snow in the winter and look inviting for a hike in the summer. When you arrive you are overwhelmed with all the activities there is to do. It is, after all, considered to be the adventure capital of the world. While it would be nice to do everything chances are your budget won’t allow it. I think they say the typical tourist in New Zealand only lasts about 3 days in Queenstown. So, what activities do you select? And without blowing your savings?

(1) Eat at Fergburger. I’m not just saying this because I work there. It’s become part of the Queenstown experience and you will never see another burger restaurant like it. With names for the burgers such as Cockadoodle Oink, Southern Swine, Bun Laden, and Morning Glory, you can’t go wrong. The burgers are massive enough to keep you full for the rest of the day and they are delicious. On a busy winter day you will see the queue outside of the shop as the small restaurant is packed with people trying to stay warm. You get to watch as the workers hustle quickly on an efficient “bun line” that produces the burgers. The beauty of it is that they are open until 5 am so you can be satisfied with a burger after a night out on the town. Which leads me to number two…..

(2) Enjoy the night life. Queenstown is a small, yet busy town. It consists of only a handful of main roads. However, you will find over 30 bars, each with its own personality and draw to any crowd. If you are looking for a quiet more cozy night you can go to Pog Mahones, Brass, The Whiskey House, Pub on Wharf or other pubs. Many of these places have live music going on every night. If you are looking for a fun night of clubbing look no further than Buffalos, Winnies, or Altitude which advertise cheap drink specials and theme nights such as Jelly Wrestling or Ginger Night. And if you are looking to just get some cheap drinks with good company go to Surreal or Searle Lane. Of course I am not mentioning the countless other pubs to check out. Really if you are done with one place just walk a few yards and you will end up somewhere new. If you are feeling particularly indecisive join the daily bar crawl and have someone decide your pubs for you. Just be sure to bring your ID and be prepared for a night where anything is possible where you will have the opportunity to meet people from all over the world.

(3) Partake in one adrenaline activity. There are quite a few to choose from in the adventure capital of the world, with 3 different bungees, 3 sky swings, 4 jet boat rides, sky diving, paragliding, parasailing, white water rafting, lugeing, off-roading, zip lining, canyoning, river surfing, and wake boarding. I personally did the Nevis bungee, 134 meters and one of the top 5 highest in the world. I will never forget crying as I approached the ledge, made the mistake of looking down into the canyon below me and the thrill of my stomach going into my throat as I plummeted down into the abyss with a blood curdling scream. You need to get yourself scared somehow in this town. Not only is it part of the Queenstown experience, but also a must-do for New Zealand in general.

(4) Experience Milford Sound. You can take a cruise, helicopter or plane ride through some of the most magnificent areas you will ever see. You will stare in awe at the beautiful waterfalls, lush greenery and stunning nature. Nestled in the Fiordlands, you will get to see the images of New Zealand that you’ve seen in the movies; the imagery that may have motivated you to come to New Zealand in the first place. If you wish to go slightly off the beaten path then see Doubtful Sound instead which has even more incredibly sights and wildlife to see. An added bonus is the beautiful sights you will get to take in on your bus ride there. If you take the cruise, you will get unlimited tea and coffee, which is something this backpacker fully took advantage of. Milford Sound is even more exciting when you are highly caffeinated. If you have the time, organise a road trip with other travelers you meet in town and make the trek over there yourself. The best way to experience New Zealand overall is road tripping with some good mates.

(5) If it’s winter go snowboarding or skiing. Queenstown is a ski resort. It’s what drives the town. People come from near and far to chase the powder June through September. With the Remarkables and Coronet Peak close by and Cadrona not too far in Wanaka, there is lots of fun to be had. Even if you don’t do either buy a sightseeing pass and get to experience stunning views at the top of the mountains. If it’s the summer go on one of the many hikes. Go to the top of Queenstown Hill and catch the stunning views of the lake on a sunny day. Or climb the hill the gondola goes up and save money. If you have a mountain bike take it with you up the gondola and take one of the daredevil biking trails back down. However you do it, you must catch the views of Queenstown from above. You will feel like you are gazing down on a land from another world.

There are so many things to do in Queenstown. I haven’t even mentioned Frisbee golf, or Lord of the Rings tours, hiking a multi-day trek, or swimming in the lake. I arrived in Queenstown almost 7 months ago and loved it so much I decided to stay. It’s a funny place, quite international and full of youth and life. It’s like a small city crammed into a tiny town. If you are planning on visiting New Zealand you must make it stop on your itinerary. The best thing about it is there are so many ways to enjoy it, no matter what budget you are on. I hope you come to love the place as I have.

Letting the New Zealand Light Shine In

lauren_watson — Tue, 19 Jul 2011 17:04:00 GMT

One of the things that makes New Zealand different from home is the light. It’s the way the sun shines, the shadows it casts, the different hues in the sky it creates. I walk to work in the morning and the sun is rising, shining brightly on Mt. Cecil and casting the snow ablaze into a fierce fire. The low clouds look as if they are cutting into the mountain and have a soft blue glow from the reflection of the snow above and the lake below. The sun has not reached the Remarkable mountains yet and they have a faint shade of blue. In the distance towards Frankton and beyond the sky is a fierce purple and yellow. I walk to work, along Lake Wakatipu and see the long ripples come to the shore. They bring with them the colours of the sun on the mountains, the purples and reds. The lake is a pallet, full of paint for my mind and memories. I do this walk every day to work and every day I let the images soak into my brain. I will look back someday later in life and remember that there was a time when I got to experience a piece of heaven every morning. I can’t help but compare it to how I used to go to work - defrosting my car in the dark, shivering, winding through the dark forest. I watch tourists take pictures before they move onto the next place - perhaps Christchurch or Dunedin. I remember how I felt when I first came here, awed and inspired by the beauty of it all and thinking I would do whatever it would take to stay.

I live in a place called Fernhill, which is just that - a steep hill that rises above Queenstown and the lake. In the winter my home never gets the sun because it never becomes that high in the sky. You can see your breath in the morning in your flat and you dress in layers around the house because you don’t want to spend the extra money to heat the place. When you walk down the road in the morning, the sidewalk is covered in frost and sparkles like diamonds. Again, the sun and the light come into play. There are quite a few days in the winter that are dreary and heavy with low clouds. This makes the locals and tourists happy because they know there’s a good chance more snow is falling on the mountains. But the days it is clear the sun is glorious. It only hangs around in town for a short while and is definitely gone by 3:00 at the latest. The sun heats up the place as it hangs low but shines brightly. As you walk through town you feel it on your face, let it soak into your hair, and it is the most amazing feeling. I get flashbacks of when I was warm and full of sun and how my family back home is being baked in the July heat. I relive happy memories of summers being tan and active and I watch them fade as the sun dips below the mountain and shrouds the town into a cool shade again.

There aren’t many trees here in the center of the south island. The mountains are covered in grass or rocks or shrubs but there is a sense of barrenness. There are some areas where I feel like I am driving on the moon. The sun magnifies this. Long strips of light slice the mountains and illuminates their shape and form. The white snow looks blue in some parts and in other places the snow is so white on the mountains that it can completely blend in with an overcast sky. A few months ago I went to a place called Lake Tekapo, about a three hour drive from Queenstown. We were in a race, against the setting sun, against the light as we climbed Mt. John. There we sat and watched the sun go down and felt we were almost at the end of the world. The lake stopped looking like water and instead became a fierce turquoise rock. The mountains in the distance that were brown were now purple and yellow, set ablaze. I sat there in a small shelter of rocks on the top of the mountain, hiding from the strong wind, snuggled up against my boyfriend Steve, and I saw the strong sun illuminating his profile. His face was aglow, his eyes were sharp and I watched as he took in this little spot we had all to ourselves. It was almost like I was looking at him for the first time. I will remember this moment for the rest of our lives, us drenched in the sun, newly in love and away from all stress in the world below. I traveled on my own for months and months, experiencing beauty and inspiring moments, just hoping that someday I would be able to share them with someone I cared about. Finally a moment like that had come.

I walk home from work as the sun sets. The mountains I saw in the morning look completely different than they do now. There is a trace of purple wisps in the sky and the Remarkable mountains that were blue before are now fiercely white on top purple rock. The snow defines each crack and crevice and the mountains look like they have veins, as if they were alive. And really, the way they are always changing could lead one to believe that they actually are. I walk out onto a line of rocks that cuts into the lake and watch as the water smoothly lap past me. The lake is purple now and my soul drinks in the colours. I wish my family and friends back home could see this. I want them to understand. I want them to see that there are places like this in the world that really do exist. Maybe I just need confirmation from them that I am not actually dreaming.

Living here in Queenstown is not all fun and games. There are things I miss from home, and things that can make life somewhat frustrating here. But as long as I have this light, this continued feeling that I am in this special place, in a far corner in the world, I think everything is going to be okay.

New Zealand is the place where I came to rest after being unhappy at home and then constantly on the move in my travels. It is the country where I found my best friend and love. It’s where I have had the opportunity to work and be friends with people from all over the world. It’s where I have seen more beautiful sunsets, sunrises and rainbows to last one person’s life time. But most importantly it’s the place where my inner compass, the one that has been spinning constantly for the last year with no real direction has finally come to rest. What is that light I keep seeing and feeling everyday? Maybe it’s some higher power, looking out for me. Call it God, call it whatever you like but something is out there. Perhaps it was in New Zealand where I was finally able to let it shine in.

Unpacking My Bag

lauren_watson — Fri, 22 Apr 2011 13:03:00 GMT

Today is the first time since I left for my trip that I have officially unpacked my bag. I just calculated and if my math is correct that is 296 days. Now granted, I have gone through some times where I have sort of unpacked my bag in the past. Staying with friends in Melbourne for a month and then also staying at the same backpackers in Queenstown for about 5 weeks allowed me some freedom in storage of my things. But today was the first day I actually took my clothes out of my packing cubes, my underwear and socks out of my two plastic storage bags, my electrical chargers out of my side pockets, and put them on shelves in a closet. I have come to realize the uniqueness of this experience and could not help but feel some emotions.

First off I couldn’t get over just how few clothes and possessions I really own. My things seemed like a lot as they filled up my entire bag and felt heavy on my back, but as I look at them now taking up only two shelves I can’t get over the lack of what I have. Especially compared to all that I used to have back in New Jersey. Certainly my wardrobe has changed quite a bit since I left home. Half the clothes I have now are things that I have bought along the way and it’s so funny how I can tell you exactly what country they are from. Those are the tights I bought in Helsinki, the leggins I purchased in Estonia, the cardigan and jeans I bought in Australia and so on. I think sadly about how many of my clothes have been put to rest out of constant wear and tear. You wear the same 10 Tshirts over and over again and holes start to develop, colours start to fade, and you can’t help but feel a loss as you toss them in the bin. It’s almost like saying goodbye to a friend. I am still mourning the loss of my brown hoodie that I left behind in a café in Melbourne. I practically lived in that thing for months on end and as I look at old travel pictures I can only hope that it is being put to good use somewhere else. Am I getting tired of wearing the same things over and over again? Let’s just say that I am very excited for when my package of winter clothes comes in the mail from home.

I’ve unpacked my bag but I am not home - or am I? I’m living in a flat in Queenstown now, sharing with 5 other guys from Canada, England and New Zealand. In 4 days I will have been in New Zealand for 3 months, 2 of those months being in Queenstown. Am I really no longer backpacking? The thought still seems so foreign to me.

It may seem like I don’t own a lot. But then I turn on my laptop and open the files that contain all the photos I have taken in the last 9 months. With over 5,000 pictures, I realize that I actually own quite a lot. I sit and watch these on a slide show and just can’t get over where I have been. First off, I look like a completely different person now. I look at photos of me from Ireland, the beginning of my trip and am so surprised by the differences. It’s almost like I am looking at a ghost. This was old me, the girl that lived in New Jersey, and had that old life that I am starting to forget about more and more. She certainly did look happy, like she was having the time of her life. I start to notice the change in appearance as I get to China, a few months into the trip. Certainly by Australia a transition has been made. The question is, will I ever look like that old girl again? Part of me craves her beauty, her ignorance. Backpacking has been hard on the body, I can tell you that. But then I go back to those photos I have taken and just can’t get over all that I have seen and done with my life.

And I have started to go back and read my journals, and reflect on all the crazy thoughts that I had throughout traveling. I came across this list I made which I would like to share with you now.

Lessons I Have Learned From Traveling

1. Clothes can be worn again….and again….and again….without washing. But you really need to stay on top of washing your towel because that can start smelling really badly really quickly.

2. You don’t have to go out every night.

3. It’s amazing what you can do with instant noodles.

4. The world is small - you will run into travelers you’ve met again.

5. McDonalds is great for internet.

6. Traveling will slow you down. You will eat slower, walk slower, learn to appreciate good conversations with people. There are so many amazing things in this world you can miss if you don’t take the time to look.

7. A good traveling companion is rare and should be cherished.

8. (For ladies) If you go out to a club on your own make sure you have got another female companion from the hostel with you. Going out with just guys you have met is alright but chances are you might end up doing something you could regret later.

9. Your heart is going to get broken - but you will break some yourself.

10. Follow the advice of other backpackers but in the end follow your instincts and your gut. After all, you are the one that will have to live with your decisions in the end.

11. Earplugs are a life saver.

12. You will spend more than you budgeted - get over it.

13. Don’t cheap out on a warm sleeping bag if you are planning on camping in cold places. It’s really hard to get a good night sleep when you are shivering.

14. Splurge every now and then on things that make you feel good about yourself (hair cuts, nice shampoo, pedicures).

15. Always double check the hostel/hotel showers for your stuff before you leave or it will be gone forever. Oh and always double check that all caps are secure on your toiletries to prevent serious leakage in your bag.

16. Make sure you’ve got your towel before you leave.

17. Markets are often the cheapest and best places to buy souvenirs. Never, ever go in those tacky shops in every city. You will pay too much.

18. Utilize free walking tours and the people that work at your hostels. Make them your best friend.

19. Food at the supermarket is a great way to spend remaining money you have before you go on to the next country.

20. Buying a laptop was the best purchase I made for this trip. Free wifi and watching movies in bed are the best ways to relax from all the sightseeing.

21. Don’t worry about standing out and looking like a tourist. The friendliest experiences I have had have been from locals who knew I didn’t belong.

22. Offering booze to people is a great way to make friends at a hostel, or anywhere for that matter.

23. Teaching myself the Cyrillic alphabet before I went to Russia was a lifesaver.

24. Always make sure you know how to say hello, goodbye, yes, no, please, and thank you as a bare minimum in each country you visit, regardless of how much English is spoken there.

25. Try your best to have a map with you to get to your next hostel if you are in a non-English speaking country. The Hostel World instructions can often be a bit shit.

26. Hostel World has better reviews of hostels but Hostel Bookers is often cheaper. Use both simultaneously when backpacking through Europe.

27. If you know you are going out at night leave your toiletries, and pajamas on top of your bed and carry your torch with you. It will make your life easier when you come back late and are trying to maneuver in the dark…plus it makes you a courteous hostel guest.

Of course these certainly aren’t all the lessons. I could write a novel on everything I have learned and all the advice I could give. I have obtained more knowledge in these last 9 months than I have in all my time in college and high school. I have come to understand just how isolated us Americans are from the rest of the world. I forgot to mention the other set of possessions that I have on my laptop. This would be the 60 posts I have written during my traveling. I will read an old one every now and then and almost feel like I am reading a stranger’s work. I have completely forgotten some of the thoughts that I have recorded and am surprised at some of the deep revelations that I have made on my trip.

I have unpacked my bag - but there is this feeling inside of me that knows that this is not unpacking for good. There is still so much in this world that I want to see and experience. Everyone has their addictions to something. Mine is with traveling. I guess it beats cigarettes. You can bet that Southeast Asia, Japan, and Fiji are most definitely in the cards for me in some not too distant future. At the moment my bag, my partner in crime, sits silently in the corner of the closet. But I know it will be there for me when I am ready.

Fluffing in New Zealand

lauren_watson — Thu, 31 Mar 2011 11:14:00 GMT

It’s a chilly Sunday evening and I am sweeping the leaves away from the front of my work. You can definitely tell that autumn is coming. Just as I am about to push the leaves into the street a gust of wind comes and blows them back into the burger shop. All I can do is smile and laugh about the futile situation. I have a feeling that there are many more leaves to come. Hungry customers sit under the outside heaters, shivering but looking forward to the best burgers in town. While I am not quite dressed appropriately for the cold, I still welcome the weather. I didn’t get to experience autumn or winter at home this year as I was traveling, and I am quite looking forward to it now.

Life is good in Queenstown at the moment. We are entering the “in between” moment for the seasons and things are starting to become quieter. But we’ve still got the same night life, the same backpacking energy and the same mountains that I have fallen in love with.

My job title is “fluffer” at my job. If I had a dollar for every time I have been teased for this title I would be one rich lady. If you don’t know why my name is funny….well….it’s not quite appropriate for the nature of this blog. Feel free to google it and see what you find. Not to sound completely American, but my job is pretty awesome. I guess the main point of what I do is to keep the customers happy. I clear the tables, get customers drinks when they need them, provide napkins (serviettes), keep the drinks stocked, take phone orders, take out the rubbish, and do the laundry. But the main point of my job is to keep the customers happy by initiating conversation with them. This can actually be more tiring than you would think, but I love it all the same. I get to meet people from all over the world. I watch them come in as per the recommendation of Lonely Planet, or their tour guide, or a friend and they study the menu hard for a good solid minute. They go over the names of some of the burgers, such as “Little Lamby”, “Tropical Swine”, and “Cockadoodle Oink”. It’s really fun when I take phone orders and listen to people say “I’ll have a Southern Swine, a Chief Wiggum, and a Sweet Bambi”. I’m still getting used to the New Zealand accent as I confuse such names as Jen with Jim when I write them down with the phone order. Thankfully people have been pretty patient. The atmosphere at the restaurant is intense. They cook thousands of burgers a day and the chefs truly put forth such energy to get the burgers done in a timely fashion. The shop is small and sometimes it is completely packed with people eagerly awaiting the burgers that they have heard so much about. The energy is electric and curious people will often walk by and check things out.

To my surprise, one of the most popular nationalities of our customers at the moment is American. What’s funny is that I can usually spot them out from a distance….especially the older ones. They look so cute when they come in and say in their yank accents “I’ll have a cheeseburger with some ketchup please”. It’s the first time I have heard the word ketchup in about 9 months. But I thoroughly enjoy talking with them and discovering what their impressions of New Zealand are. Most of them are having the time of their lives. They are often curious about me, picking up my accent right away and wanting to know how a young American came about to be living here. Most of them don’t know about the “working holiday” way of life here in Australia and New Zealand, although to be perfectly honest not too many Americans do it. The most awesome part about chatting with the Americans is that they leave tips, although often in American money which has now become completely foreign to me. But talking with them has allowed me to feel close to home again.

Other common visitors are from Europe, Mexico, Israel, and New Zealand as well. I have found myself in several conversations with people from Christchurch who are just traveling for a bit to get away from the stress of the earthquake. I am especially happy to see those people enjoying their burgers and time traveling around the south island.

The restaurant is open until 5 in the morning which is perfect for Queenstown. The owner of my hostel has described it as the “Vegas of the South Island” with bars on every corner and buses of backpackers appearing every day. Trust me, business can be great on a late Saturday night/early Sunday morning. As my shift comes to an end near 12 am I watch some people stumble by as they are finishing up their pub crawls. The look of satisfaction on their faces as they get their munchies fulfilled is quite amusing. Often you will see them coming in the next day to see if that same amazing burger will cure their hangover. It usually does.

And the people that I have been working with are great as well. I think only one is originally from New Zealand and most are from England, Ireland and France. I am the only American at the moment. It’s been nice to get to know people outside of my hostel. I’m ashamed to admit that after all this time being with different people and accents I still have trouble understanding some of them when they talk to me. I wish my “disabled American ears” would get a little sharper so I don’t seem as dumb. Hopefully the more I get used to people the better I will do! But they are fun people and I am looking forward to seeing theme very day.

So I used to have a career teaching math, my own car, my own flat and was an active union member. Now I work at a burger joint and am living at a hostel. And you know what? I can’t remember the last time I have been this happy. When I am done sweeping the leaves I will get the chance to take a break and sit by the lake. I’ll take in the views of the sun hitting the mountain peaks as I’ll listen to some people in the street play music for money. I’ll try to spot some of the leaves that are starting to change in the season. I will continue to enjoy one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. When work is over I will get to walk home and feel the brisk air light my skin up with goose bumps. Life is funny. You think you are supposed to go down a certain path and then something comes along that will change everything. Being rich isn‘t important. Possessions aren’t important. What is important is to follow your heart, find that place that is right for you and then do everything it takes so you can stay. I wandered the world lost for so long. Now 9 months in I am finally starting to feel found. Am I finished with my traveling? Absolutely not. But I finally feel like I have come home.

My Travel Writing Scholarship 2011 entry - Journey in an Unknown Culture

lauren_watson — Mon, 14 Mar 2011 13:41:00 GMT

It’s day three on the Trans-Siberian train and I’ve decided to wash my hair. So, how does one go about washing their hair in a simple train toilet? Step one, obtain some hot water, which thankfully is in abundance. Two, develop the right combination of the hot and cold water from the tap so you don’t completely scald yourself. Three, take off your clothes in the bathroom, make sure the door is locked and hang your stuff as high as possible. Reflect on how your body has changed during traveling (unfortunately not for the better in my case). Four, pour water on your head. Lather up. Pour water on your head to rinse. Repeat.

Life on the train has been going well. Our short stops have been an experience. Sometimes it’s a five minute stop while others can be up to twenty. We always make sure to check with the attendant in our carriage so that the train doesn’t leave without us. She speaks very little English and thus uses her fingers to indicate the countdown of time as we try to get our shopping done. Each stop has some kiosks where you can buy cigarettes, beer, chips, noodles, bread, juice, and other food for the train. The longest line is usually for the cigarettes. Some stops have the babushka ladies swarming around you with smoked fish dangling from hooks and prepackaged lunches for sale. Trying these concoctions that the ladies have made are all great part of the fun.

Our attendant is a plump, brunette Russian woman who is never out of her uniform, right down to the hat. She has a stern look and when she speaks she sounds always like she is reprimanding you. I have learned that she is actually quite nice. The language barrier just leads to confusion. I enjoy having to lift my feet up as she vacuums our carriage. It gives me fond memories of my childhood and my mom cleaning up after me.

I wish I could say the same for the waitresses at the restaurant car. They sigh heavily when you attempt to communicate what you want but can’t quite get your order across. They do know the English word for beer and are constantly asking us if we want it. Some of the waitresses are quite insistent that we buy them a beer as well! The restaurant car is a good place to meet people. Some are Russian but many are from all over Europe. You feel a bit comforted when you look over and see them struggling with the menu as you had just done twenty minutes ago. We all have the same look of wonder in our faces as we watch the country side fly by.

Tomorrow evening I will be getting off the train and while I will be happy for a break I am pleased with the amazing experiences I have obtained. I look forward to getting back on again in a few days.

The Waiting Game

lauren_watson — Fri, 11 Mar 2011 12:54:00 GMT

I am now a ghostbuster. I now get to spend about 14 hours a week cleaning the hostel that I am staying at, in return for accommodation and free internet. I get to walk around with a vacuum cleaner strapped to my back as I make my way around the hostel. I look just like a ghostbuster, and old cleaners of the hostel even refer to the job as ghost busting.

The biggest mistake I could have ever made during my traveling was not applying for my New Zealand working holiday visa before I entered the country. I lodged my application almost a month ago and still have not been approved. I had to undergo a blood test, chest x-ray and full physical before they would even consider my request. Now I wait. Every day I check my email, waiting to hear an answer…any answer. To double check I go to the immigration website and see the unchanging message: working holiday visa status pending. I even called the office today, realized I was in a queue of 38 people and am still waiting for someone to get back to me. To be fair, I think the Christchurch earthquake has seriously backed things up and made things take longer. But here I am….waiting….no means to make money and secretly hoping and praying that everything is going to work out. Every day I meet people that have jobs or are looking for jobs, all cozy with their working holiday visas. I would give anything just to be part of that club.

But I can’t complain. I am ghostbustng and thus do not have to pay for a place to live. Cleaning the hostel has been a bit of an experience for me. I’ve now crossed the line from being a tourist here to a resident. Half the hostel is full of people just passing through Queenstown for a few days. The other half consists of people that have been here awhile, working in various jobs all over the city. I am sharing a room with some of these people and couldn’t be happier. It’s a collection of backpackers living in somewhat harmony. I can leave my valuables out and not worry about them being stolen. There is a sense of respect for each other in the room because we have to live with each other. I’ve got people now that greet me when I come home and ask me how my day has been. I’ve had the opportunity to somewhat unpack my bag a bit. I sleep top bunk above an 18 year old English guy named Alan who works at the bungee company in town and has the most ridiculously long curly hair you will see on a white guy. He keeps things positive with his young energy. In another bed is a lovely woman from New Zealand named Jo who is going to university in Queenstown. She and I get on really well and I have enjoyed learning more about New Zealand culture from her. In another bed is Alex, a long term traveler like me from England who has a mathematics degree. I don’t meet too many travelers whom I have that in common with. Every night he makes the most delicious looking meals as he patiently puts a good solid hour into his cooking every night. There are also other long-term people here from Ireland, Germany, Wales, Holland, Canada Australia and Israel.

Today as I was bent over a toilet scrubbing it to shiny perfection I couldn’t help but laugh out loud. Here I am…a highly qualified and experienced mathematics teacher and former union leader now cleaning for no money. And I am happy. It’s quite the learning experience, starting to see how a hostel is run. Do I enjoy cleaning up people’s trash and finding things like a dirty pair of underwear under a bed? Not particularly, but I do enjoy meeting people from all over and having conversations with them about New Zealand. I give them suggestions on fun things do in Queenstown and the surrounding areas. I share my love of the country with them. I get on well with the owner of the hostel, a man named Kent who was kind enough to give me the ghost busting job in the first place. So kind in fact that he has asked his fiancé to hook me up with another job. So, starting tonight I will be working at a really popular burger place in Queenstown. I’m not entirely sure what my job is yet, but I know the title is called “fluffer”. Someone that keeps people happy and keeps things running smoothly….I guess. Guess I am going to find out. I know what you are thinking: how is it possible I am working without the visa? Well basically I will not be able to get paid until the visa is approved….so I am working for nothing. But at least I am all set up for when the thing gets approved.

Living in New Zealand has become my dream. I love this country, I love the land, and I love the people. If cleaning toilets and fluffing at a burger joint is what I have to do to stay than so be it. We all have to start somewhere. I have spent the last 8 months frolicking around the world and doing whatever I want, it’s about time I contribute to society again. If things work the way I hope then I will do this work but slowly look into becoming a teacher and going through the application process. Who knows, I may find that I prefer working in tourism and will want to stay in that industry. Life is all about the people we meet and the experiences that we have. I am certainly getting an education here. And I am thankful, so thankful to be living in one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen in my life.

Yesterday I was sitting by the lake and I overheard a North American couple sitting nearby. The girl said to the guy “could you imagine living here and getting to wake up to this view every morning?” I couldn’t help but smile to myself, knowing that I am living that dream.

Designing My Dream Hostel

lauren_watson — Sun, 6 Mar 2011 09:23:00 GMT

So I would say I have stayed in about 50 hostels now since I started traveling 8 months ago. I’ve been to some amazing ones, average ones, and god awful ones. Over the months I have developed a list of “little things” that hostels can have that really make a difference. I am pretty sure now that if I were to open and run a hostel now it would be amazing because I can pretty much anticipate all the backpackers needs. I would like to now share with you the top things that would be in my dream hostel (keep in mind that I have seen each one of these in at least one hostel along the way).

Lauren Watson’s hostel would have….

(1) Free wifi available everywhere in the hostel, including the dorm rooms. Nothing beats waking up in the morning and checking my facebook without getting out of bed (something I bet a lot of you non-travelers take for granted).

(2) Lockers with plugs inside so you can charge your valuables without worrying.

(3) Free towels provided. I think I’ve had this happen in only 2 hostels but it was amazing each time! No wet towel to pack when I left!!!

(4) Free linen. I’m sorry but it is absolutely ridiculous that some hostels charge.

(5) Hand soap in all the toilets as well as towels, preferably paper ones (feels more hygienic to me).

(6) A hook to hang your towel next to the bed instead of finding creative ways to use the bars in the bunk

(7) Bunks made of good, solid wood that don’t wobble when the other person tosses and turns at night.

(8) Space under the bunks to slide your bags under.

(9) Individual reading lights with each bed. This (a) allows you to read without a flashlight and (b) keeps the lights dim for people that want to go to sleep early.

(10) Free complimentary breakfast. So common in Europe, few and far between in Australasia. The best free breakfast I received was heart shaped waffles at a hostel in Vilnius. Complimentary tea and coffee all day is a bonus.

(11) Either free or cheap hostel dinners. This is great because (a) it’s perfect for the wallet and (b) it brings people together at the same time so you can get to know other travelers.

(12) Fun activities every night where people can get to know each other. This can be open mike night, a pub crawl, or some fun competition/game.

(13) A large kitchen heavily supplied with cutlery, pots, pans, mugs, etc. Oh and a clean one, too.

(14) Showers separate from the toilets that way if you just need the toilet you don’t have to wait forever for it in the morning.

(15) Complimentary maps that have labeled all essential places in the city as well as the big tourist attractions.

(16) A cozy common room with bean bag chairs, couches, and a billiards table.

(17) Free transport/pickup if the hostel is not close to the train station/bus station.

(18) If the hostel is in Asia then complimentary help with buying future train and bus tickets.

My dream hostel would also be smaller with more a feel of a home as opposed to a hotel. Is this list unreasonable? I think not. A happy backpacker is a respectful backpacker, and one who recommends the place to others. If you can think of anything else to add to the list please leave your comments.