South America

Volunteering in Cochabamba, Bolivia

koleta — Thu, 24 Jan 2008 05:18:00 GMT

Volunteering with CAICC in Cochabamba. No fees here, genuine volunteering in the true meaning of the word, so if you have a place to stay in Cochabamba then offer your time with these guys.

La Paz, Bolivia

koleta — Sun, 20 Jan 2008 05:13:00 GMT

Ate at Hard Rock cafe every day!!! Getting a bit tired of bad almuerzos and rather than hunt for good ones we just parked ourselves at Hard Rock. Steak there is good!

Good artesian shops along Illampu (is that how you spell it?) but I don´t know if they´re expensive compared to the rest of Bolivia. Bolivia´s so cheap anyway.

Copacabana, Bolivia

koleta — Sat, 19 Jan 2008 05:05:00 GMT

Nice little lakeside town to stop in for a few days. If you are there you MUST eat at La Orilla!!!! And if you want yummy chocolate fondue go to La Cupula on the hill.

Also, happy hour on Saturday at Waykas is 8:30 to 10pm. You will have the bar to yourself during this time. Bit of character there... when it´s full a permanent marker floats around - the walls, tables, bar stools, bar bench, everything is signed by past patrons. Everything except the mural of Bob Marley´s face LOL!! How´s that for respect.

We caught a TourPeru bus which was going Puno to La Paz with an optional stopover for up to 2 nights in Copacabana, for 25 soles. The bus from Puno to Copacabana was the cleanest bus we´ve seen in ages.. since Cruz Del Sur in Peru. However the bus from Copacabana to La Paz was crusty and made for midgets.

Puno, Peru

koleta — Sat, 19 Jan 2008 05:03:00 GMT

Unless you´re visiting the floating islands, don´t bother stopping here.

Machu Picchu

koleta — Wed, 16 Jan 2008 04:57:00 GMT

Machu Picchu.. You have to see it! That´s all I can really say about it. Pictures do no justice.

The Sacred Valley is also good.. make sure you´re in the mood to climb stairs because there are plenty.

We went through AAA Tours which was negotiated down to $185US (and $165US student) for both the Sacred Valley tour and Machu Picchu. Not sure if that´s average but it would pay to shop around as it seems that all the tour agencies use the same pool of guides anyway, so aside from the cheapest method of arranging everything yourself, you´d be best to find the cheapest tour you can.

Bus Huancavelica to Ayacucho to Cusco

koleta — Sat, 12 Jan 2008 04:42:00 GMT

This 4am bus was terrible... the aisle was literally packed to the brim with people (and the odd lamb). Luckily I had booked a seat, but I had people practically sitting on me anyway. Noticed that nobody else with an aisle seat was getting the same treatment, so that´s what happens when you´re a gringa in Peru.

When the sun rose, the scenery again was very nice, it was the Peruvian Andes as I had imagined. And yay, a bit of snow too.

Ayacyucho is a very nice city. The buildings in the central area reminded us a bit of Cuenca Ecuador actually. If we had time we would have stayed longer. Hostal Samary has a nice rooftop view.

But onward to Cusco. Long ride from Ayacucho to Cusco.. 20 odd hours. This time the road was windy, unpaved, thin and on the edge for many hours. Thrilling! although not recommended if you´re afraid of heights. Bus driver was a bit of a racing car driver wannabe. But alas we made it to Cusco safe and sound.

At Cusco bus terminal, you get paprazzi-ed by people who want you to stay at their hostel. Getting off a 20 hour ride at 4 in the morning, you almost want to punch them. But we ended up staying at Albany Hotel who was offering $10US pp for a double with cable, bathroom and breakfast. I was had at cable lol.

Train Huancayo to Huancavelica

koleta — Thu, 10 Jan 2008 04:38:00 GMT

The train ride from Huancayo to Huancavelica is great... scenery is fantastic. Recommended! Don´t catch the Saturday autovagon though, not only is it the most expensive at 15 soles... it´s packed to the brim and is comprised of only one carriage. Take the slow train!

Huancavelica itself is a horrible town. Couldn´t wait to get out of there and unfortunately, train arrived at 12noon, first bus out towards Cusco was 4am. Arrrgh!

Volunteering in Huancayo, Peru

koleta — Thu, 3 Jan 2008 04:22:00 GMT

Volunteered for two weeks with PeruForYou. They have established 3 preschools in Huancayo and need more volunteers time and money to keep the schools running (it cost $260US for 4 weeks).

We worked with a school in San Fernando where we did activities with the kids. Basically we were there to give the teacher a bit of a break, and to look after the kids while she gave each of the parents a progress report. Because it was Christmas and New Years though the school was closed for a few of the days we were there. However it was a great excuse to buy paneton, cakes, lollies and drink for the kids. Miss the kids heaps now that we´ve left.

New Years in Peru is funny... they have several traditions at midnight; running around the block or a park with a backpack brings you more travels (of course we did this one), eating 12 grapes and making a wish for each one, wearing yellow undies brings you luck, green money, red love, showering with flowers brings you love, yellow flowers at the table brings luck.

Huancayo, Peru

koleta — Wed, 19 Dec 2007 07:50:00 GMT

Left Trujillo on can´t remember what day, caught an overnight bus to Lima. In Lima the best burger was to be found LOL.. sold from a white van on one of those middle of the road islands. If you´re hungry it is across the road from the Cruz Del Sur bus station on Javier Prado.

Then onto another overnight bus to Huancayo. Overnight buses are a good way to save money.... the only thing is trying not to spend the whole day eating!

The road to Huancayo was a bit windy and must´ve been quite steep because some people got sick on the bus. (Got tingly limbs like I do when I´m flying). The road apparently rose to 4000m before dropping into the valley. Huancayo is the poorest city I´ve seen so far. All my loose change is fast disappearing into the hands of people on the street. As well as whatever I happen to be stuffing into my gob at the time. There was one girl selling lollies who looked about the same age as Aysia (4 yrs) Oh my gosh!!! And many old people sitting on the street with their hands held out. This is a difficult place to be if you have a soft spot for the poor and not enough money to give (not if you want to survive yourself anyway).

If you like rice pudding there´s an old lady who sells a delicious flavour on Av. Piura for 1 sole. I think its called morada or something.. a bowl of half rice pudding and half fruit sauce tasting stuff. Her stall is only set up after dark, around 7:30pm or later.

Heading out to work for in an orphanage on Thursday. Will be there for a month or so.

Trujillo, Peru

koleta — Fri, 14 Dec 2007 13:59:00 GMT

Hola! I´m now in Trujillo, Peru. Since the last entry I´ve travelled back north through Ecuador and headed south around the coast through Pedernales, Canoa, Bahia, Guayaquil, Cuenca and Vilcabamba again. Canoa is ok but overall the coast wasn´t that great. Ecuador´s highlands are definitely more interesting.

Vilcabamba is a great place to unwind and give your ears a rest from all the traffic. If you go there, stay at Le Rendez-Vous. Everything about the place is fantastic and it´s cheap! And also recommended are a back massage from Lola at Shantas up the road, and a facial from Karina in the main square.

Finally crossed into Peru after 2 months in Ecuador. Was pickpocketed in Piura 15 minutes after arriving... Welcome to Peru LOL! Headed out of there quick smart, down the coast to Chiclayo and Trujillo. The coastal landscape is dramatically different to Ecuadors.. desert and poverty. In the urban areas the cars here are hilarious to watch and ride in, it´s as if they´re playing dodgems on the road. I don´t think there are any give way rules, you just need to keep your eyes peeled and your brakes working.

Peruvians so far are quite friendly - except for that pickpocket! I´m having a bit of trouble understanding their spanish accent and vocab but am slowly unfolding the mystery.

The ruins around Trujillo are very interesting and worth looking at. Totally fascinated by the Moon Temple.

I´m now at the beach in Huanchaco near Trujillo which is nicer than the beaches I saw in Ecuador. Definitely worth a visit, only 1 sole on a B minibus from Trujillo. Accommodation´s cheap but food not so much. Will be heading to Huancayo via Lima soon to do some more voluntary work.

Sorry haven´t posted any photos lately.. been too busy laying in hammocks!

PS. PHOTOS are on the right ->

koleta — Sat, 24 Nov 2007 04:49:00 GMT

Forgot to mention that photos are in the right hand column under Photo Galleries.

Now back in Quito and will be heading to Canoa on the coast soon.

Gallery: Vilcabamba

koleta — Tue, 20 Nov 2007 08:42:00 GMT

Gallery: Cuenca

koleta — Sun, 18 Nov 2007 08:21:00 GMT

Cuenca, Ecuador

koleta — Tue, 13 Nov 2007 10:25:00 GMT

I´m now in Cuenca in the south of Ecuador. Been here two seconds and have decided that I like it. It looks cultural and colonial, and the traffic is not as mental as Quito´s (judging by the number of beeps per minute, and the length of the beeps). The streets in the centro are cobbled, skinny and mostly one-way. The shops and cafes are a bit expensive so far though so I probably won´t last for too long here lol. Just look around the cheap and freebie places and then maybe head to Vilcabamba next week.

The bus ride from Baños was long and (when I was awake) very scenic. But for two hours I was absorbed in a hilarious book and oops totally missed Chimborazo, the highest volcano in Ecuador (I think) which is 6310m!

Otavalo, Ecuador

koleta — Sun, 11 Nov 2007 10:38:00 GMT

Spent the last week or so in Otavalo, north of Quito. It´s famous for it´s Saturday market, and justly so. The first day I saw the market I wanted to buy everything. (So I promptly removed myself and went back later with less cash in hand.) Everything is colourful, tapestries, bags, purses, jewellery, woolley jumpers and ponchos, more bags (I´m addicted to bags here), art, HAMMOCKS!!, all manner of clothing.. etc.

I also popped into Cotacachi twice which has a small leather market on Sunday and a whole street of shops with all various qualities of leather for a bargain.

Soon I should really get back to a community to practice spanish. Shopkeepers, hoteliers etc are ok but they´re quite fast, and some in the city are typically stressed.. don´t have patience for silly gringos who don´t bother to learn the language before they come.

For now though I´m heading to Cuenca as recommended by Majo from Quito to have a look around and admire it´s architechture.

Gallery: Otavalo (1), Ecuador

koleta — Mon, 5 Nov 2007 03:07:00 GMT

Gallery: Cotacachi & Ibarra, Ecuador

koleta — Sun, 4 Nov 2007 02:38:00 GMT

Pucara, Intag, Ecuador

koleta — Fri, 2 Nov 2007 10:12:00 GMT

So I spent a couple of weeks in a small town (so small I could hardly find it on maps) called Pucara, in a ruggedly mountainous region called Intag. I stayed with the Flores family, Eladio, Consuelo and their 4 sons Cristian, Dennis, Rommel and Carlito. They and their extended family were very hospitable. They took us (myself and some other volunteers) to local hot springs, waterfalls, sunday market, and Jaime took us on extraordinary forest hike in the mountains to collect hanging vines (can´t remember the name) which his wife uses to make baskets etc. He decided to take short cuts and went THROUGH.. as in cutting the path with a machete. It felt like those native jungle docos you see on tv. So much work goes into these products and it´s unfortunate that families producing these baskets etc only get a few cents or dollars for them.

So the living was semi rustic.. I slept on a hard bed and shared the room with a REALLY irritating mouse rat thing that made scratching noises under my mattress. I was so sure it was going to gnaw it´s way through and eat me alive. The shower is a shower head outside connected to a hose. No walls.. not even a bush like in the islands. Mountains on one side and the kitchen window on the other. Didn´t want to ask how that worked. Luckily I heard about the house up the road which had a comparitively luxurious hot water shower so I traded a $1 bottle of disgustingly potent alcohol called Puro (locals call it Jugo de Intag - juice of Intag) for use of their shower. Consuelo fed me well and I was served huge portions of food. Plenty of fresh fruit and veg again, and hot fresh milk which I´m getting a bit attached to.

While in Intag I became addicted to crocheting. I worked with a local material called cabuya which is rough and a bitch to weave. The local shop owner (of the only shop in Pucara) taught me and for three days I sat on her shop porch weaving like an old lady. It turned out to be a very interesting place to sit because the locals all like to come there for a gossip. So I ended up greeting most the locals.. in the country you say Buenos Dias etc to EVERYBODY and shake their hand.

Oh yeah, and I got to eat the Ecuadorian speciality.... cuy (guinea pig)!

Gallery: Pucara (Intag) 2, Ecuador

koleta — Thu, 1 Nov 2007 02:39:00 GMT

Gallery: Vine collecting (Intag somewhere), Ecuador

koleta — Thu, 25 Oct 2007 03:09:00 GMT